1、Designation: D4035 14Standard Performance Specification forKnitted Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4035; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A nu
2、mber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 Thes
3、e requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification.Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if
4、 any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2594 Test M
5、ethod for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Test
6、er MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas F
7、umes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 D
8、imensional Changes of Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromat
9、ic Transfer-ence Scale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR 1610Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevai
10、l.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to D13.61, Apparel, seeTerminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:necktie, scarf, in apparel.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminol-ogy D123.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction
11、of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D4035 13. DOI:10.1520/D4035-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit t
12、he ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from
13、American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Con
14、shohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for neckties and scarfs shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1
15、Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acc
16、eptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets
17、 ASTM Specification D4035except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemand
18、s dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.
19、Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshould first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers instructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test metho
20、ds.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage abov
21、e or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (see Note
22、 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D3786 or Test Method D3787.NOTE 2There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bu
23、rsting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precisi
24、on of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespeci
25、mens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During Manufacturing6Mark specimen(s) as directed in 4.5 of AATCC Method 135.Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller with respect to time cycles,temperature, steam, vacuum
26、, and mechanical pressure of thepress head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimen-sional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCCMethod 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the
27、 cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicable6The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specification Req
28、uirementsNOTE 1Grade for colorfastness and SA rating is based on a numericalscale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numericalrating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic
29、Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1After five launderings 5 % max 7.2.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabri
30、cShade change after one laun-dering or one dry cleaningGrade 4AminGrade 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.3.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering:E7.3.2Shade changeStainingGrade 4AminGrade 3BminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Grade 4AminCrocking:E7.3.4DryWetGrade 4Cmin
31、Grade 3CminPerspiration:E7.3.5Shade changeStainingGrade 4AminGrade 3BminLight (40 AATCC Fading Units)(xenon-arc)Grade 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)SA3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.5AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Tr
32、ansference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.ESee Note 7.D4035 142procedure in AATCC Method 135-1978 or as agreed uponbetween the buyer and the seller (Note 4 and Note 5).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.3 Dry-cleaningDetermine the maximum d
33、imensionalchange after three dry cleanings in accordance with Section10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D2724 (Note 4 and Note5).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D2594.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of
34、the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “Dry-cleanable” are to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 5Spec
35、imens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done the dimensional change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to pressingand finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimen
36、sional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or dry-cleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the co
37、lorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfast
38、ness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61-1975. The test conditions shall be as specified bythe seller (Note 4).NOTE 7It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combinati
39、on of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.3.3 Dry cleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry cl
40、ean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller (see Note 7).7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to
41、perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15 (see Note 7).7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. C
42、onsequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in Option E3 shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Met
43、hod 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Powdered NonChlorine BleachDetermine colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Method 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed upon
44、between the purchaser and the seller, as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in AATCC Method 96.7.4.1.1 The
45、fabric smoothness durable-press (SA) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the SA rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 SA rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser a
46、nd the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory standard(see section 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 necktieASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressl
47、y advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, e
48、ither reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may atte
49、nd. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission right
