SANS 888-2008 Interlining《衬料》.pdf

1、 Collection of SANS standards in electronic format (PDF) 1. Copyright This standard is available to staff members of companies that have subscribed to the complete collection of SANS standards in accordance with a formal copyright agreement. This document may reside on a CENTRAL FILE SERVER or INTRA

2、NET SYSTEM only. Unless specific permission has been granted, this document MAY NOT be sent or given to staff members from other companies or organizations. Doing so would constitute a VIOLATION of SABS copyright rules. 2. Indemnity The South African Bureau of Standards accepts no liability for any

3、damage whatsoever than may result from the use of this material or the information contain therein, irrespective of the cause and quantum thereof. ISBN 978-0-626-21223-0 SANS 888:2008Edition 3.1SOUTH AFRICAN NATIONAL STANDARD Interlining Published by Standards South Africa 1 dr lategan road groenklo

4、of private bag x191 pretoria 0001 tel: 012 428 7911 fax: 012 344 1568 international code + 27 12 www.stansa.co.za Standards South Africa SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 Table of changes Change No. Date Scope Amdt 1 2008 Amended to update referenced standards. Foreword This South African standard was appro

5、ved by National Committee StanSA SC 5110.01B, Textiles Woven fabrics, in accordance with procedures of Standards South Africa, in compliance with annex 3 of the WTO/TBT agreement. This document was published in June 2008. This document supersedes SANS 888:2007 (edition 3). A vertical line in the mar

6、gin shows where the text has been technically modified by amendment No. 1. Annex A forms an integral part of this standard. Annex B is for information only. SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 1 Contents Page Foreword 1 Scope . 3 2 Normative references . 3 3 Terms and definitions . 4 4 Requirements . 4 5 Samp

7、ling and compliance with the standard . 6 6 Inspection and methods of test 7 6.1 Inspection 7 6.2 Conditioning 7 6.3 Composition 7 6.4 Weave . 7 6.5 Mass per area 7 6.6 Number of threads per centimetre 7 6.7 Breaking strength 8 6.8 Recovery from creasing 8 6.9 Dimensional changes 8 6.9.1 After immer

8、sion in cold water 8 6.9.2 After steam pressing . 8 6.10 Non-fibrous material content . 8 6.11 Filling and resin content 8 7 Packing, labelling and marking 8 Annex A (normative) Notes to purchasers 9 Annex B (informative) Quality verification of interlining 9 Bibliography . 9 SANS 888:2008 Edition 3

9、.1 2 This page is intentionally left blank SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 3 Interlining 1 Scope This standard covers the requirements for four types of haircloth and one type of cellulosic (or other fibre) interlinings suitable for use in the manufacture of uniforms, civilian suits and neckties. 2 Normat

10、ive references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. All normative documents are subject to revision and, since any reference to a normative document is deemed to be a reference to the latest edition of that document, parties to agreements based o

11、n this document are encouraged to take steps to ensure the use of the most recent editions of the normative documents indicated below. Information on currently valid national and international standards can be obtained from Standards South Africa. AATCC test method 20, Fiber analysis: Qualitative. A

12、vailable from World Wide Web SANS 70, Conditioning of textiles and standard temperate atmosphere for determining their physical and mechanical properties. SANS 79, Textiles Mass per unit area of conditioned fabrics. SANS 82, Width of a textile fabric in a piece or roll. SANS 84, Length of fabric in

13、a piece or roll. SANS 977, Textile tolerances. SANS 1097, Dimensional changes in textile fabrics caused by immersion in cold water. SANS 1270, General requirements for woven textile piece-goods and household articles. SANS 1833/ISO 1833 (all parts), Textiles Binary fibre mixtures Quantitative chemic

14、al analysis. SANS 2313/ISO 2313, Textile fabric Determination of the recovery from creasing of a horizontally folded specimen by measuring the angle of recovery. Amdt 1 SANS 5113, Non-fibrous material content of wool. SANS 5114, Non-fibrous material content of textiles (method using starch-digesting

15、 enzymes). SANS 5272, Non-fibrous material content of textiles Hydrochloric acid method. SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 4 SANS 5402 (SABS SM 402), Fabric recovery from creasing: angle of recovery method. Amdt 1 SANS 5418, Dimensional changes of textile fabrics during steam pressing. SANS 7211-2/ISO 7211-

16、2, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 2: Determination of number of threads per unit length. SANS 10004, Terms and definitions for textiles and textile merchandise. SANS 10076-5, The assessment of defects in textile piece-goods and made-up articles Part 5: Defects in woven

17、woollen and worsted piece-goods. SANS 10153, The labelling and marking of textiles and household textile articles. SANS 13934-1/ISO 13934-1, Textiles Tensile properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method. 3 Terms and definitions F

18、or the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in SANS 10004 and the following apply. 3.1 acceptable acceptable to the authority administering this standard, or to the parties concluding the purchase contract, as relevant 3.2 LAQ number of defects permissible per 100m2of fabric SA

19、NS 10076-5 3.3 lot not more than 300 pieces of interlining of the same type, width, finish and composition, made by one manufacturer, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing 4 Requirements 4.1 General Interlining, when visually examined in accordance with 6.1.2, shall a) be of accep

20、tably uniform make, width and finish; b) be made in accordance with sound manufacturing practice from singles or 2-ply carded cotton or viscose yarn, either ring-spun or open-end spun, in the warp direction; c) have a resin finish and, except for type 26, be singed; and d) be delivered in a clean an

21、d commercially dry condition. SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 5 4.2 Composition The fibre composition, determined in accordance with 6.3, shall comply with the requirements given in table 1, as required (see annex A). Table 1 Composition 1 2 3 4 5 6 Fibre percentage a Type Fibre 32WH 38WH 24 26 27 Hair an

22、d wool bCellulosic or other fibres 44 56 35 65 18 82 100 22 80 aSubject to a tolerance of 3 %. b Hair and wool content requirements have been combined. A suitable blend, to obtain the desired stiffness and resilience required, should be used. 4.3 Weave The weave, determined in accordance with 6.4 sh

23、all be plain. 4.4 Selvedges When visually examined in accordance with 6.1.2, the selvedges or leno edges, as required (see annex A), shall be straight and flat. 4.5 Width Unless otherwise specified by the purchaser (see annex A), the average width of the fabric shall be either 80 cm or 160 cm for ha

24、ircloth used in the manufacture of uniforms and civilian suits and 100 cm for tie interlinings, subject to the relevant tolerances given in SANS 977. 4.6 Piece length Each piece shall comply with the requirements of SANS 1270 applicable to worsted and woollen piece-goods and, unless otherwise specif

25、ied by the purchaser (see annex A), the length of each piece shall be at least 70 m, subject to the tolerances given in SANS 977. 4.7 Freedom from defects When visually examined in accordance with 6.1.2, the assessment and stringing of defects, and the deductions to be made for strung and unstrung d

26、efects, shall be in accordance with SANS 10076-5 and based on the following LAQs: a) for pieces: 14 b) for a lot: 8. In the case of interlining of width less than 100 cm (see 4.5 and annex A), for the calculation of the number of defects present per 100 m2, the width shall be regarded as being 100 c

27、m. SANS 888:2007 Edition 3.1 6 4.8 Fabric The fabric shall, when tested in accordance with the relevant tests in column 7 of table 2, comply with the requirements given in columns 2 to 6 (inclusive) of table 2, relevant to the type required (see annex A), and, subject to the relevant tolerances give

28、n in SANS 977. Table 2 Fabric requirements 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Requirements Type aProperty 32WH 38WH 24 26 27 Test method sub-clause Mass per area, free from non-fibrous material b, g/m2, min. .230 160 215 320 235 6.5 Number of threads per cm, min. Warp Weft b.17 15 25 13 16 8 14 12 16 11 6.6 Breaking str

29、ength b, N, min. Warp Weft .360 480 180 350 400 310 650 650 180 360 6.7 Recovery from creasing, min. Warp Weft .85 110 6.8 Dimensional changes: After immersion in cold water b, %, max. Warp and weft .After steam pressing, %. max. Warp and weft .2 1,5 6.9.1 6.9.2 Non-fibrous material content, %, max.

30、 6 6.10 Filling and resin content, % max. . 8 20 8 6.11 aThe type number is derived from the sum of the number of warp and the number of weft threads per centimetre. Designation by type number is restricted to fabrics which comply with the above requirements. bSubject to the tolerances given in SANS

31、 977. 5 Sampling and compliance with the standard 5.1 Sampling When no information concerning the implementation of quality control or testing during manufacture is available, the following sampling procedure shall be applied to determine whether a lot submitted for inspection and testing complies w

32、ith the requirements of the standard. The samples so taken shall be deemed to represent the lot for the respective properties. NOTE Information on the quality verification of interlining is given in annex B. 5.1.2 Sample for inspection After checking the bulk containers for compliance with the requi

33、rements of clause 7, draw at random from the lot SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 7 a) five pieces or all the pieces (whichever is less) marked as containing cuts; and b) ten pieces or the remainder of the lot (whichever is less) for inspection purposes. 5.1.3 Sample for testing Take five pieces (which may

34、 be drawn from the pieces taken in terms of 5.1.2(a) and 5.1.2(b) and, from each of the five pieces so drawn, cut a full-width laboratory sample, (of area at least 2 m2) from a position taken at random but at least 3 m from an end of the piece. 5.2 Compliance with the standard Deem the lot to comply

35、 with the requirements of the standard if, after inspection and testing of the laboratory samples taken in accordance with 5.1.2 and 5.1.3, the samples are found to comply with all the requirements of the standard. 6 Inspection and methods of test 6.1 Inspection 6.1.1 Inspect the pieces taken in acc

36、ordance with 5.1.2(a) for compliance with the requirements of 4.6 in respect of cuts of length less than 14 m (see SANS 1270). Divide the number of pieces taken in accordance with 5.1.2(b) into two equal sets. Measure each piece in the one set for compliance with the requirements given in 4.5 and 4.

37、6, using SANS 82 and SANS 84 to measure the width and length respectively. 6.1.2 Visually examine the second set for compliance with the requirements given in 4.1, 4.4 and 4.7. 6.2 Conditioning Condition each laboratory sample (see 5.1.3) in accordance with SANS 70 and then cut from each the test sp

38、ecimens required for the tests given in 6.3 to 6.11 (inclusive). 6.3 Composition Use AATCC test method 20 for type 26. Use the appropriate part(s) of SANS 1833 for the remaining types given in table 1. Check for compliance with 4.2. 6.4 Weave Carry out a visual examination and a physical analysis. C

39、heck for compliance with 4.3. 6.5 Mass per area Use SANS 79. Check for compliance with table 2. 6.6 Number of threads per centimetre Use SANS 7211-2. Check for compliance with table 2. SANS 888:2007 Edition 3.1 8 6.7 Breaking strength Use SANS 13934-1. Check for compliance with table 2. 6.8 Recovery

40、 from creasing Use SANS 2313. Check for compliance with table 2. Amdt1 6.9 Dimensional changes 6.9.1 After immersion in cold water Use SANS 1097. Check for compliance with table 2. 6.9.2 After steam pressing Use SANS 5418. Check for compliance with table 2. 6.10 Non-fibrous material content Use SANS

41、 5113. Check for compliance with table 2. 6.11 Filling and resin content Use SANS 5114 and SANS 5272. Check for compliance with table 2. 7 Packing, labelling and marking 7.1 Packing 7.1.1 Unless otherwise required (see annex A), each piece shall be rolled full-width (i.e. unfolded) and face inward o

42、n a tube. 7.1.2 Only pieces of the same type, width and finish, woven on the same type of loom shall be packed together in a bulk container. 7.2 Labelling and marking Pieces and bulk containers shall be labelled and marked in accordance with SANS 10153. 7.3 Additional marking When so required (see a

43、nnex A), pieces or bales (or both) shall bear information additional to that specified in 7.2. SANS 888:2008 Edition 3.1 9 Annex A (normative) Notes to purchasers A.1 The following requirements shall be specified in tender invitations and in each order or contract: a) the type required (see 4.2 and

44、4.8); b) whether selvedges or leno edges are required (see 4.4); c) the width, if other than as specified (see 4.5); d) the length of each piece, if other than as specified (see 4.6); e) the packing, if other than as specified (see 7.1.1); and f) additional marking, if required (see 7.3) A.2 The ord

45、er or contract that specifies the requirements listed in A.1 shall be made available to inspection representatives for inspection purposes when so required. Annex B (informative) Quality verification of interlining When a purchaser requires ongoing verification of the quality of interlining, it is s

46、uggested that, instead of concentrating solely on evaluation of the final product, he also direct his attention to the manufacturers quality system. In this connection it should be noted that SANS 9001 covers the provisions of an integrated quality system. Bibliography SANS 9001/ISO 9001, Quality management systems Requirements. Standards South Africa