1、248 TM 143-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/2007Developed in 1975 by AATCC Commit-tee RA61; revised 1982, 1989, 1992,1996, 2006; editorially revised and re-affirmed 1984, 2001; editorially revised1986, 1991, 1997, 2004, 2005. Techni-cally equivalent to ISO 15487.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This test method i
2、s designed forevaluating the smoothness appearance offlat fabric and seams, and the retention ofpressed-in creases in garments and othertextile products after repeated home laun-dering.1.2 Any washable textile end productmay be evaluated for smoothness appear-ance, seam smoothness and crease reten-t
3、ion using this method.1.3 Textile end products containingfabrics of any construction, such as wo-ven, knit and nonwoven, may be evalu-ated according to this method.1.4 Techniques for seaming and creas-ing are not outlined since the purpose isto evaluate textile end products as theywill be supplied f
4、rom manufacturing oras ready for use.2. Principle2.1 Textile end product items are sub-jected to standard home laundering prac-tices. A choice is provided of hand or ma-chine washing, alternative machine washcycles and temperatures, and alternativedrying procedures. Evaluation is per-formed using a
5、standard lighting andviewing area by rating the appearance ofspecimens in comparison with appropri-ate reference standards.3. Terminology3.1 appearance of textile end prod-ucts, n.the overall visual impression ofa textile end product quantified by com-parison of individual components withappropriate
6、 reference standards.3.2 ballast, n.in procedures for pro-cessing or testing of textiles, material thatis used to bring the total weight or vol-ume of the textiles to an amount specifiedin the procedure.3.3 crease retention, n.in fabrics,the visual impression of an insertedcrease quantified by compa
7、rison with aset of reference standards.3.4 durable press, adj.having theability to retain substantially the initialshape, flat seams, pressed-in creases andunwrinkled appearance during use andafter laundering or drycleaning.3.5 laundering, n.of textile mate-rials, a process intended to remove soilsa
8、nd/or stains by treatment (washing) withan aqueous detergent solution and nor-mally including rinsing, extracting anddrying.3.6 laundering creases, n.sharpfolds or lines running in any direction in awashed or dried specimen.NOTE: Laundering creases are an un-intended result of restricted movement of
9、specimens in a washer or the dryer.3.7 seam smoothness, n.in fabrics,the visual impression of planarity of aseamed specimen quantified by compari-son with a set of reference standards.3.8 smoothness appearance, n.infabrics, the visual impression of planarityof a specimen quantified by comparisonwith
10、 a set of reference standards.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterial
11、s in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand other manufacturers recommenda-tions. All OSHA standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaborato
12、ry areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent and the 2003 AATCCStandard Reference Liquid Detergentmay cause irritation. Care should betaken to prevent exposure to skin andeyes.4.3 All chemicals should be handledwith care.4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-dations should be followed when
13、operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.4.5 When evaluating crease retention,use of a lamp with a shield can aid in pre-vention of burns that could result fromlamp heat.5. Uses and Limitations5.1 This test method is designed to beused for evaluating the appearance of ap-parel or other textile end pr
14、oducts pro-duced with washable fabric after repeatedhome laundering.5.2 The test procedure is designed toreflect the capabilities of home laundryequipment which is currently used byconsumers. In general, it is preferable toconduct the test under relatively severelaundering conditions.5.3 Prints and
15、patterns may mask themussiness present in textile end products.The rating process is, however, based onthe visual appearance of specimens in-cluding such effects.5.4 The interlaboratory reproducibilityof the results of this test method dependsupon mutual agreement by users of themethod on the washin
16、g and drying condi-tions as outlined in 8.1 and the weightingfactors to use for individual componentsof the items as described in 9.7.1.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Automatic washing machine (see12.1).6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.1).6.3 Drip dry and line dry facilities.6.4 A 9.5 L (10.0 qt) p
17、ail.6.5 1993 AATCC Standard ReferenceDetergent or 2003 AATCC Standard Ref-erence Liquid Detergent (see 12.2 and12.7).6.6 Ballast of 920 920 30 mm (36 36 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleachedcotton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1)or 50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave(Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.3
18、).6.7 Lighting and evaluation area in anotherwise darkened room using the over-head lighting arrangement shown in Fig.1 (see 12.4). It has been the experience ofmany observers that light reflected fromthe side walls near the viewing board caninterfere with the rating results. It is rec-ommended that
19、 the side walls be paintedmatte black (85 Gloss less than 5 units)or that blackout curtains be mounted onboth sides of the viewing board to elimi-nate the reflective interference.6.8 A 500-watt DXC (RFL-2) floodlamp with reflector and light shield, posi-tioned as shown in Fig. 2, for evaluatingcreas
20、e retention.6.9 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Smoothness Appearance Replicas,set of six (see Fig. 3 and 12.2).6.10 Standard AATCC PhotographicSeam Smoothness Replicas prepared forrating single- and double-needle seamsAATCC Test Method 143-2006Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Productsa
21、fter Repeated Home LaunderingCopyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical Manual/2007 TM 143-2006 249(see Fig. 4 and 12.2). The reproduc
22、tionsshown in Fig. 4 should not be used forrating.6.11 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Crease Replicas, set of five (seeFig. 5 and 12.2).6.12 Steam or dry iron with appropri-ate fabric temperature settings.6.13 Detergent (for hand wash).6.14 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lbcapacity.7. Test Specim
23、ens7.1 For textile end product tests, selectthree items for testing.8. Procedure8.1 Tables II, III and IV summarize thealternate washing and drying conditionsand settings. Additional information onthe machine and laundering conditionsmay be found in the monograph, Stan-dardization of Home Laundry Te
24、st Con-ditions, elsewhere in this TECHNICALMANUAL.8.1.1 It is recognized that special cy-cles or features are available on currentwashing machines and dryers to achieveimproved performance on certain items;i.e., gentle cycles with reduced agitationto protect delicately constructed items,and durable
25、press cycles, with cool-downor cold rinses and reduced spin speeds, tominimize wrinkling. In evaluating ap-pearance retention, however, the more se-vere Normal or Cotton Sturdy machinecycle is considered most appropriate. Ifmodifications to any of the cycles (see8.2) are used, these must be reported
26、 inthe results (see Section 10).8.2 Standard washing.8.2.1 Hand Wash(see 12.7). Dis-solve 20.0 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent or 30.3 0.1 gof 2003 AATCC Standard Reference Liq-uid Detergent in 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F)in a 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail and then
27、 add thethree textile end product specimens.Wash for 2.0 0.1 min with no twistingor wringing. Rinse once using 7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C (105 5F). Remove the specimensand dry by Procedure C, Drip (see 8.3.3).8.2.2 Machine WashUse specifiedwater level, the selected water tempera-t
28、ure for the washing cycle and a rinsetemperature of less than 29C (85F). Ifthis rinse temperature is not attainable,record available rinse temperature.8.2.3 Add 66.0 0.1 g of 1993AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or100 0.1 g of 2003 Standard ReferenceLiquid Detergent. In soft water areas thismay be
29、 reduced to avoid excessivesudsing, but in that case the amountshould be stated in the report of test re-sults.Fig. 1Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens.Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Start fluorescent lamps (without baffleor glass). (b) One white ename
30、l reflector (without baffle or glass). (c) One general type swatch mount, springloaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga.). (d) One in. plywood mounting board painted to matchNo. 2 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.Fig. 2Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease retention.Fig. 3AA
31、TCC 3-D smoothness appearance replicas.Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-250 TM 143-2006 AATCC Technical Manual/20078.2.4 Add textile end pro
32、duct speci-mens and enough ballast to make a 1.8 0.06 kg (4.00 0.13 lb) load. Evaluationof heavy textile end product items mayrequire the addition of ballast beyond the1.8 kg limit to balance the load wheredistribution is a problem. A weight limitof 2.7 0.06 kg (6.00 0.13 lb) may thenbe used and not
33、ed in the report. Set thewasher for the selected washing cycleand time (see Tables II and III). Normalor Cotton Sturdy is recommended. Forvery critical evaluations and in arbitra-tion, limit the number of specimens perwasher load to those from one sample.8.2.5 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedure
34、s A, B or D, allow washing to pro-ceed automatically through the final spincycle. Remove the test specimens imme-diately after the final spin cycle, separatetangled pieces, taking care to minimizedistortion, and dry by Procedure A, B orD (see Tables II and IV).8.2.6 For specimens to be dried by Pro-
35、cedure C, Drip Dry, remove the speci-mens from the washer just before thewater begins to drain for the final rinsecycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.8.2.7 Washer creases. Specimens maybe in a folded or creased state after wash-ing. Such folds or creases should be re-moved by hand prior to drying.8.
36、3 Drying.8.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place thewashed load (test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer and set the tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust temperatures as specified in TableIV. For fibers that are heat sensitive,lower temperatures consistent with pro-ducers recommendations
37、 are required,and must be reported. Operate the dryeruntil the total load is dry. Remove theload immediately after the machine stops.Avoid overdrying. Static cling becomes aproblem with overdrying, particularlywith lightweight items, because it pre-vents the specimens from tumbling freely.8.3.2 (B)
38、Line Dry. Textile end productitems are to be hung on an appropriatehanger, straightening and smoothing fac-ings, seams, etc. Allow specimens tohang in still air at room temperature untildry.8.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Textile end productitems should be hung as described in8.3.2. Allow specimens to hang in s
39、till airat room temperature until dry.8.3.4 (D) Screen Dry. Spread eachspecimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-rated surface, removing wrinkles but notdistorting or stretching the specimen. Al-low the specimens to dry in still air atroom temperature.8.3.5 Dryer creases. If specimens arefolded or cr
40、eased after any drying cyclebut the last, they should be rewet and anattempt should be made to remove thecreases by ironing with a hand iron at atemperature suitable for the fabric beingtested prior to the specimens being sub-jected to additional washing and dryingcycles. No attempt to remove wrinkl
41、es orcreases by hand ironing should be madeafter the final drying cycle.8.4 Repeat the selected washing anddrying cycles four more times or to anagreed number of cycles.8.5 Prior to evaluation, preconditionand then condition test specimens asA. For single needle seams. B. For double needle seams.Fig
42、. 4AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.Fig. 5AATCC crease retention replicas.Copyright The American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Provided by IHS under license with AATCC Not for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-AATCC Technical Manual
43、/2007 TM 143-2006 251directed in ASTM D 1776, Standard Prac-tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles(see 12.6). Condition the test specimensfor a minimum of 4 h in the standard at-mosphere for textile testing 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH. Textile endproduct items should be hung for condi-tioning as
44、described in 8.3.2.9. Evaluation9.1 Three trained observers should rateeach test specimen independently.9.2 The overhead fluorescent lightshould be the only light source for theviewing board. All other lights in theroom should be turned off except whenrating crease appearance. In that case thefloor
45、lamp with reflector and light shield,positioned as shown in Fig. 2, is alsorequired.9.3 The observer is to stand directly infront of the specimen 1.2 0.3 m (4 ft 1 in.) away from the board. It has beenfound that normal variations in the heightof the observer above and below the arbi-trary 1.5 m (5.0
46、 ft) eye level have no sig-nificant effect on the grade given.9.4 Smoothness Appearance.9.4.1 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board as illustrated in Fig. 1,with the fabric length in the vertical di-rection. Place the most similar three-di-mensional plastic replicas on each side ofthe test spe
47、cimen to facilitate compara-tive rating.9.4.2 Although the 3-D SmoothnessAppearance (SA) replicas were cast fromwoven fabrics, it is understood that thesewrinkled surfaces do not duplicate allpossibilities of fabric surfaces. The repli-cas are to be used as guides which repre-sent various levels of
48、fabric smoothnessor freedom from wrinkles. The observershould mentally integrate degree and fre-quency of wrinkles in the specimen to de-termine a level of smoothness that can beidentified with the SA replica numberwhich most nearly represents thatsmoothness appearance level; see TableV.9.4.3 Assign
49、 the numerical grade of thereplica which most nearly matches thesmoothness appearance of the test speci-men, or assign a grade midway betweenthose whole-number standards whichhave no half-number standards separatingthem (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA-4.5) if the ap-pearance of the test specimen warrants it.9.4.4 An SA-5 grade is equivalent tothe SA-5 replica and represents thesmoothest appearance, while an SA-1replica represents very poor appe
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