AIR FORCE MIL-S-83234 C-1988 SKIRTS WOMEN'S BLUE《蓝色女式裙》.pdf

1、MIL- S-83234 C( USAF) 1 June 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-83234B( USAF) 6 August 1982 MIL ITARY SPEC I FI CATI ON SKIRTS, WOMEN SI BLUE This specification is approved for use within the Department of the Air Force, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. S

2、COPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens skirts. 1.2 Classification. The skirts shall be of one type furnished in the following classes, as specified (see 6.2): Class 1 - Polyester/wool, tropical cloth, USAF Blue 1578, 10.00 OZ. Class 2 - Texturized polyester/serge cloth

3、, USAF Blue 1575, 6.50 OZ. -Class 3 - Polyester/wool, tropical cloth, USAF Blue 1608, 10.25 OZ. 1.2.1 Lengths and sizes. The skirts shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Schedule of lengths and sizes Short 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Regular 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

4、 13 14 15 16 18 20 Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: ASD/ENES, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-6503 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appeari

5、ng at the end of this document or by AMSC NIA FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83234C( USAF) 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government docume

6、nts 2.1.1 Specifications and standards. The following specifications and standards form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and S

7、tandards (DODISSI and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-B-871 V-F- 106 V- T-2 7 6 V-T-280 V-T-295 NN-P-71 DDD-L-20 PPP-B-636 PPP-T-45 MILITARY MIL- C-3 6 8 MIL-P-15011 MIL-C-21115 MIL-T-43 548 MIL- C-43 7 1 8 MIL- C-4429 6 MIL- C-F 3448 STANDARDS FEDERAL Button,

8、 Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plasric) Fastener, Slide, Interlocking Thread, Cotton Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole Thread, Nylon Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2-Way and 4-Way (Partial) Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Use) Boxes, Shipping, Fiberb

9、oard Tape, Gummed, Paper, Reinforced and Plain, for Sealing and Securing Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon Pallets, Material Handling, Wood Post Construction, 4-Way Entry Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester- Covered Cloth, Polyester;

10、Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets Cloth, Fusibles Cloth, Serge, Polyester Texturized I FED-STD-191 Textile Test Methods FED-S TD-75 1 Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings MIL I TARY MIL-STD-105 Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by MIL-STD-129 Marking for Shipment and Stor

11、age Attributes 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83234C 8q 3Ob 0408Cb8 b MIL-S-83234C( USAF) MIL- STD- 147 Palletized Unit Loads MIL- STD- 1609 Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Womens Skirts MIL- S TD-2 07 3- 1 DoD Materiel

12、Procedures for Development and Application of Packaging Requirements 2.1.2 Other Government documents. The following other Government document forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicit

13、ation. LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act (Application for copies should be addressed to the Federal Trade Commission, Washington DC 20580-0001.) (Copies of specifications, standards, and other Government documents required by contractors i

14、n connection with specific acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. the issues of the document which are DoD ad

15、opted shall be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS shall be the issue of the nongovernment document which is current on the date of the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, AMERICAN S

16、OCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) ASTM D 3951 Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race St., Philadelphia PA 19103-1187.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Department of Defense (

17、DoD) Standard Color Card of Official Standardized Shades for Sewing Threads Department of Defense (DoD) Standard Shades for Buttons (Application for copies should be addressed to The Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Ave., New York NY 10016-0927.) (Nongovernment standards and oth

18、er publications are normally available from the organization which prepare or which distribute the documents. These documents also may be available in or through libraries or other information services.) Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-

19、,-I tIIL-S-8323qC 8L1 777770b 04085b7 8 MIL-S-83234C( USAF) . 2.3 Order of precedence, In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. Nothing in this specification, however, shall supersede appl

20、icable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Q 3 REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide samples. Guide samples, when furnished (see 6.3), are solely for guidance and information to the contractor. Variations from the document may appear in the samples, in which case the document shall

21、govern. 3.2 First article. When specified in the contract or purchase order, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.4 and 6.2). 3.3 Materials (see 6.5) 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material for the class 1 skirt shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1578 conforming to type I

22、II, class 3 of MIL-C-21115; the material for the class 2 skirt shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1578 conforming to MIL-C-83448; and the material for the class 3 skirt shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1608 conforming to type III, class 4 of MIL-C-21115. 3.3.2 Rayon cloth. The rayon cloth for th

23、e lining shall conform to class 1 of MIL-C-368 and shall be USAF Color Blue, Shade No. 1086 (see 6.3). 3.3.3 Polyester-cotton twill cloth. The polyester-cotton twill cloth ?or the waistband interlining shall be black conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43 7 18. 3.3.3.1 Fusible material. As an alternate,

24、the waistband interlining may be type VI, style A, class 2 of MIL-C-44296 and the color shall be black. 3.3.4 Tape. The tape for finishing the bottom of the skirt shall be 1/2 - +1/16 inch wide, 65 inches in length, plain weave, woven of continuous filament rayon yarn. The tape shall weigh not less

25、than 5.0 ounces per gross yards and shall contain not less than 66 ends full width and 52 picks per inch. The tape shall match the color of the basic material and shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning and crocking. 3.3.5 Braid. The braid for the hanger loops shall be cotton flat braid or

26、 rayon flat braid. have a minimum breaking strength of 75 pounds, and shall match the color of the basic material. and wet dry cleaning. The braid shall be 118 inch to 3/16 inch wide, shall The braid shall have good colorfastness to crocking 3.3.6 Labels. The skirt shall have an identification, a si

27、ze and an instruction label or a combination identification, size and instruction label conforming to DDD-L-20. The colorfastness to dry cleaning requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-i MIL-S-3234C 8L

28、I 7777706 OLIO8570 4 MIL-S-83234C( USAF) 3.3.6.1 Identification, size, and instruction labels. The identification, size, and instruction labels for the skirt shall conform to type VI, classes 1, 2, and 3. 3.3.6.2 Combination identification, size and instruction label. The combination identification,

29、 size and instruction label for the skirt shall conform to type VI, class 14 and shall include the following information: Skirt, Womens, Blue Contract No.: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) i/ Fiber Products Act (information as applicable) Stock No.: 8410-00-000-0000 (Example) - i/ Size: 12R (Example) Con

30、tractor i/ DRY CLEAN ONLY L/ - i/ The contractor shall include the applicable information. 3.3.7 Thread. The thread for all seaming and stitching shall be shade Navy Blue AT, C.A. 66060 (see DoD Standard Color Card). The cotton thread for seaming the skirt and making the buttonhole shall be type IA3

31、, ticket No. 50, 3 ply; for attaching the button by hand sewing shall be type IB3, ticket Nos. 12 or 16, 4 ply; and for attaching the button by machine sewing shall be type IB3, ticket No. 20, 4 ply conforming to V-T-276. If an automatic machine that sews and shanks (wraps) a button in one operation

32、 is used, the thread shall be waxed nylon, monocord, special No. 5, having a minimum breaking strength of 16 pounds and a minimum length of 2,150 yards per pound and shall be tested for these requirements and for colorfastness requirements to wet dry cleaning and light in accordance with V-T-295. As

33、 an alternate, cotton-covered polyester thread conforming to ticket No. 50 of MIL-T-43548 may be used for all seaming and stitching. 3.3.7.1 Colorfastness. The dyed thread shall show fastness to wet dry cleaning and light equal to or better than the standard sample (see 6.3). When no standard sample

34、 is available, the dyed thread shall show “good“ fastness to wet dry cleaning and light. , 3.3.8 Slide fastener. The slide fastener shall be 7 inches in length and shall conform to type I, style 3, short tab pull, size LS, brass, aluminum, or zinc chain of V-F-106, except that the salt spray resista

35、nce requirement shall not apply. 3.3.8-1 Tape for slide fastener. The tape extension dk the top shall extend not less than 1-1/4 inches beyond the stops. The tape shall match the color of the basic material and shall have colorfastness to wet dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample

36、(see 6.3). standard sample is not available, the tape shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning. If a Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83234 C; USAF) I 3.3.9 Gimp. The gimp shall be Navy Blue AT, C.A. 66060 (see DoD Color

37、 Card) and shall conform to type I or II, size No. 8 of V-T-280. The gimp shall have colorfastness to wet dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample (see 6.3). If a standard sample is not available, the gimp shall have good colorfastness to wet dry cleaning. 3.3.10 Button. The button s

38、hall be Blue BV, C.A. 62003 (see DoD Color Card) and shall conform to type II, class D, style 20 or 21, size 24 line O V-B-871. 3.4 Design. Each skirt shall have six gores, a dart at the waistband in each side front gore and in each side back gore,.an attached waistband, and a small inside hanging p

39、ocket in the waistband seam and shall be fully lined and unhemmed. The closure of the skirt shall be effected by a button and a buttonhole at the waistband and a slide fastener in the left side (as worn). 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns shall be furnished by the Government. The standard patterns sho

40、w size, seam allowance, shape and placement of pockets, directional lines for cutting, and are marked or notched for proper placement and assembly of the component parts. patterns shall provide a seam allowance of 314 inch for the front, back, and the side seams, and 318 inch for the waistband seam.

41、 The standard patterns for the lining shall provide a 314 inch seam allowance for the front and back seams and a 518 inch seam allowance for the side seams. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any-way, and are to be used as a guide for cutting the contractors working patterns. The working

42、patterns shall be identical tothe Government patterns. The standard . .“ 3.5.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the skirt shall be cut from the materials specified in accordance with the number of parts indicated in table I. 3.6 Construction. The construction of the skirt shall conform in a11 r

43、espects to the requirements specified in table IIand herein. are furnished for guidance and information only. If there are any inconsistencies between the specification and the figures, the specification shall govern. Figures 3.6.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. All stitches, seams, and stitching

44、types specified in table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. stitches, seams, stitchings, and the minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II. Whenever two or more seam or stitch types are specified for the same part of the operation, any one may be used. The loope

45、r (underthread) of stitch type 401 shall be on the inside of the fin.ished skirt. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so-that raw edges, run-Offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly at the seam line. The type of Thread tens

46、ion shall be properly maintained so that stitching will Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83234C 4 m 7797906 ClLiO572 8 W Mat erial Basic material (see 3.3.1) Rayon cloth (see 3.3.2) Polyes ter- cotton twill cloth (see 3.3.3) - MI

47、L-S-83234C( USAF) TABLE I. List of Dattern Darts. Pattern nomenclature Center front Side front Cent er back Side back Waistband Pocket Placket Center front Side front Center back Side back Waistband interlining Cut parts 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 2 1 3.6.1.1 Thread breaks and ends of seams and stitchings.

48、 The ends of all seams and stitchings produced with stitch type 301, when not caught in other seams or stitchings, except the pointed ends of the darts, shall be backtacked not less than 114 inch. The thread ends at the bottom of each dart shall be trimmed to a length of 112 to 314 inch. The ends of

49、 continuous lines of stitching, except on labels, shall be overlapped not less than 112 inch. The ends of continuous lines of stitching on labels shall be overlapped not less than 112 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. repaired using stitch type 301. Skipped stitches or thread breaks of stitch type 401 may be 3.6.1.2 Repair of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching sha