AIR FORCE MIL-S-83482 B-1988 SLACKS WOMEN'S《女式裤》.pdf

1、c -84-/0 MIL-S-83482B 4 m 97779Ob 04092OL1 b MIL-S-83482B(USAF) 1 June 1988 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-83482A( USAF) 19 December 1984 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SLACKS, WOMEN S This specification is approved for use within the Department of the Air Force, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies

2、of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers the requirements for womens slacks. 1.2 Classification. The slacks shall be of one type furnished in the following classes, as specified (see 6.2) : Class 1 - Polyester/wool, USAF Blue 1578, 10.00 OZ. Class 2 - Polyester/woo

3、l, USAF Blue 1608, 10.25 oz. 1.2.1 Lengths and sizes. The slacks shall be furnished in the following lengths and sizes, as specified (see 6.2): Schedule. of lengths and sizes Short 6 8 10 12 14 16 Regular 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 Long 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions,

4、deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: ASDIENES, Wright-Patterson AFB OH 45433-6503 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. I AMSC NI

5、A FSC 8410 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL- S-83482 B ( USAF) 2 APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents 2.1.1 Specifications and standards. Th

6、e following specifications and standards form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DoDISS) and supplement thereto,

7、cited in the solicitation. SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL V-F-106 V- T-2 7 6 NN-P-71 UU- P- 2 68 DDD-L-20 PPP-B-636 MILITARY MIL- C-2 1 1 15 MIL-P-15011 MIL-T-43 fi48 MIL-C-43718 MIL-C-44296 STANDARDS FEDEAL FED- STD- 7 5 1 MILITARY MIL- STD- 1 O 5 MIL- STD- 1 2 9 MIL- STD- 147 MIL- STD-6 56 MIL-STD-2073-1

8、Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking Thread, Cotton Pallets, Material Handling, Wood, Stringer Construction, 2-Way and 4-Way (Partial) Paper, Kraft, Wrapping Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, (General Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard use 1 Cloth, Tropical: Wool, Polyester/Wool Pallets, Material Handl

9、ing, Wood Post Construction, 4-Way Entry Thread, Polyester Core: Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester- Covered Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, for Pockets Cloth, Fusibles Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings Sampling Procedures and Tables or Inspection by Attributes Marking for Ship

10、ment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Slacks, Womens DoD Materiel Procedures for Development and Application of Packaging Requirements b 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- - MIL-S-83q28 4 7797706

11、0407206 T 2.1.2 Other Government documents. The following other Government doeument forms a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues shall be those in effect on the date of the solicitation. * LAWS AND REGULATIONS Rules and Regulations Under t

12、he Wool Products Labeling Act (Application for copies should be addressed to the Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington DC 20402-0001.) (Copies of specifications, standards, and other Government documents required by contractors in connection with specific acquisition fu

13、nctions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DoD adopted shall

14、be those listed in the issue of the DoDISS specified in the solicitation. specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DoDISS shall be the . issue of the nongovernment document which is current on the date of the solicitation. Unless otherwise Universal Button Co. (Talon No. 3, No. 7, and No

15、. 8 hook with No. 8 eye or No. 85 eye); Akim Co. or Patwin, Inc., Junior Series, Type JB; Stimpson (P-536, D-4086, D-4457, D-4288; Rau (OA50, OX 1256, 080415), Patwin, Inc. (Slim-Slak with MB eye, and Slik- Slak), or equal. plate. Prior to the use of an “or equal“ item, the manufacturer- of the slac

16、ks shall submit the item with supporting data to the contracting officer for approval (see 4.5.1). The finish of the hooks and the eyes shall be nickel 3.3.6 Labels. Each pair of slacks shall have a size label and a combination identification and instruction label conforming to DDD-L-20. The labels

17、shall have colorfastness to dry cleaning. 3.3.6.1 Size label. slacks in black numerals and letters and shall conform to type VI, class 2. The length may be abbreviated as follows: S (Short), R (Regular), or L (Long) The size label shall show the size and length of the 3.3.6.2 Combination label. The

18、combination identification and instruction label shall conform to type VI, class 15 and shall include the following information: Slacks, Womens - Contract No.: DLA-100-00-0-0000 (Example) i/ Wool Products Labeling Act (information as applicable) Contractor: - i/ - i/ DRY CLEAN ONLY - i/ The contract

19、or shall include the applicable information. 3.3.7 Thread. The thread for seaming and stitching and overedging shall be cotton conforming to type Iut t ing . k. Cut the slacks in strict accordance qith Government furnished patterns, which ;how directional lines, size and place- nent of pockets, dril

20、l marks for finished length of darts, and notches for proper Pssembly of parts. I. Cut all parts of the basic fabric rom one piece of cloth. 3, Measurements shall be taken at the top and bottom edges-of the pattern from the directional line to the selvaged edge of the fabric and the difference betwe

21、en the two measurements shall not exceed one inch. Eeplacement of damaged parts. a. During the spreading, cutting.and nanufacruring process, components having material defects or damages that are classified as defects in MIL-STD-656 shall be removed from production and replaced with non-defective an

22、d properly matched component s. b. Replace any part cut of the fusible interlining if it exhibits any of the following conditions: color change, bleed through, or bubbling. Marking. Mark, ticket, or bundle all component parts of the slacks to insure correct size, proper assembly, and uniform shade t

23、hroughout the slacks. ititch Type Seam and ;tit ch ing TY Pe Stitches Per Inch Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83482B 4 m 7997906 OLIO4211 3 m No . 4. 5. MIL-S-83482B( OSAF) .TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Descr

24、iption of Operation Overedge stitching. a. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the outseams, the inseams, and the bottom of the legs. NOTE: Operation 4a shall beperformed after Operation 8c but before Operation 9a b. center front seam, the seat seam, -and the ends of the waistband at the outlet. Overed

25、ge stitch the raw edges of the C. Overedge stitch the raw edges of the the front, the bottom, and t-he back edge of the fly parts. d. Overedge the free edge (inside edge) of the waistband seam. Make darts. Finished appearance. The finished darts shall be tapered on the inside without twists or pucke

26、rs. The thread ends at the lower end of the darts, after trimming, shall be not less than 112 inch long. The darts may be backtacked and ends trimmed when using an automatic dart sewing machine. a. Fold and stitch the darts on fronts and backs as indicated by the notches and the drill holes. b. Pres

27、s darts flat with the inside folded edges turned toward the center and back, respectively. 8 Stitch Type I02 Ir i 03 I02 Ir 103 502 i03 i02 Ir i 03 Il: 10 1 Seam and Stitching Type EFd-1 ZFd-1 SSa-1 CSa-1 3Sf-1 Stitches Per Inch 6-10 6-10 6-10 6-10 10-14 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction

28、or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-83V2B BV 777770b 0407212 5 , Q NO - 6. 7. 8. MIL-S-83482B(USAF) TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Fuse pocket reinforcements to pocket openings. Position the pocket reinforcements on the pocket openings

29、. Press the pocket rein- forcements in accordance with the recom- mendations of the manufacturer of the fusible material. Make pockets. Place a pocket facing and a pocket bearer on each pocket; stitch along the inner side, with the raw edge turned in, and across the lower end. A selvage edge need no

30、t be turned in. Attach Dockets. Finished appearance. pocket openings shall not be distorted. The finished pocket openings shall be uniform in length and shall be not more than 112 inch out of alignment with each other. The edges of the a. Seam a pocket to each front, as indicated by the pattern mark

31、s. Notch for the pocket opening, but avoid notch- ing the pocket on the underside beyond the width of the side seam allowance. Turn each pocket to the finished position with the seam to the back of the front edge, and stitch 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge. b. Turn the pocket right side out, and seam

32、 the raw edgesfrom the step to the folded edge of the pocketing. 9 stitch TY Pe io1 io 1 101 I01 or i0 1. Seam and Stitching TY Pe LSd-1 and LSbj -1 SSe-2 Stitches Per Inch 10-16 10-16 12-16 12-16 12-16 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,

33、- NO - 8. 9. 10. 11. NIL-S-8342B 4 W 777770b 0407233 7 MIL-S-83482B ( USAF) TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Attach pockets. - Contd c. Tack the ends of each pocket opening to the pocket bearer with a tack that is 114 to 318 inch long. between the tacks of eac

34、h opening shall be not less than 5 314 inches nor more than 6-1/4 inches. The distance oin outseams. a. Join each outseam, with the notches matched, catching the pocket and the pocket facing in the outseam. b. Press the outseams open, from the bottom to the top of the slacks. Finish pockets. Stitch

35、around the bottom of each pocket to the folded edge 114 to 31% inch from the edge, and securely backstitch the edge of the seam. Make flies. Finished appearance. chain of the slide fastener in the finished slacks shall be 112 to 518 inch from the edge at the top, tapering to 114 to 318 inch from the

36、 edge at the bottom. The flies and the waistband shall lie smooth when the finished slacks are closed. The edges of the a. Position the right fly interlining on the right fly. Press the right fly inter- lining in accordance with the recommenda- tions of the manufacturer of the fusible material. 10 S

37、titch TY Pe 30 1 301 or $0 1 301 301 Seam and Stitching TY Pe SSa-1 ssc-1 and SSae-2( b) St it ches Per Inch 12-16 12-16 12-16 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- !IO . - 11 12. MIL-S-8348ZB 4 m 7377706 0407234 7 W MIL-S-83482B(USAF) TAB

38、LE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Make flies. - Contd b. Stitch the back edge of the slide fastener tape to the right fly (through the right fly interlining where applicable) with two rows of stitching. The ends of the scoops shall be 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly

39、 notch when the fasteners are cut and the scoops are removed. C. After the fasteners are cut and the scoops are removed, stitch the slide fastener tape to the back edge of the left fly, with the bottom end of the scoops 1/4 to 1/2 inch above the fly notch. d. Seam the left fly lining to the front ed

40、ge of the left fly to the top of the left fly. e. Overedge stitch the back edge of the right fly (and the right fly interlining when applicable). Attach flies. Finished-appearance. The finished flies shall be even at the ends when the flies are joined to the crotch seam. The flies shall lie flat wit

41、hout twists or puckers when the slide fastener is closed. Lhe top corners of the right fly (if appli- cable) and of the left fly shall be completely forced out and shall not be bulky. The stitching of the right fly shall be uniformly spaced from the edge of the fly. The seam joining the right fly to

42、 the front shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks when the slide fastener is closed. The o1 Ir o1 I01 o1 r to 1 503 )r i 04 Seam and Stitching 5Pe Sbj -2 Sbj -2 SSa-1 e-z(a) e-z(a) SSa-1 Stitches Per Inch 12-16 12-16 12-16 -, 10-16 10-16 6-10 11 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproductio

43、n or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-NO 12. 13 14 MIL-S-83482B 84 7777706 0407235 O W MIL-S-83482B( USAF) TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Attach flies. - Contd left fly lining shall not be exposed on the outside of the slacks. The flies shal

44、l be smooth without twists, puckers, or excessive fullness. a. Sew the right fly (with the slide fastener attached) to the front with the notches matching. b. Sew the left fly (with the slide fastener attached) to the front with the notches matching. C. Turn the flies to the inside with the seam 1/1

45、6 to 1/8 inch back of the folded edge. Press the front edge, without damaging the slide fastener. d. Raise stitch the right fly 1/16 inch from the seamed edge; turn to the finished position and stitch approxi- mately 1-1/2 inches from the front edge at the top following the configuration of the fly,

46、 stitching and tapering off to the notch at the bottom. Join seams. a. Match the notches on the fronts and the backs at the inseams, and join each inseam 1/2 inch from the edge. The seams shall start and finish evenly. b. Press the inseams open and flat. Join crotch and seat seam. Finished appearanc

47、e. seam shall be joined with stitch tension of sufficient elasticity to meet the strain encountered in sitting or stooping. The crotch and seat seam shall be joined The crotch and seat Stitch TY Pe 101 101 101 3r to1 Seam and S t itching TY Pe SSa-1 SSa-1 SSa-1 St itches Per Inch 12-16 12-16 10-14 o

48、 12 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-No. - 14 15 a 16 MIL-S-83q82B BL1 m 777770b OqO723b 2 MIL- S-83482B( USAF) TABLE II. Manufacturing operations. - Continued Description of Operation Join crotch and seat seams. Contd io that the inse

49、ams will meet and the right and the left waistband joining seams will be aligned. right fly shall cover the left fly on the lutside of the finished slacks. . The base of the a. Before joining the crotch and seat sean, measure the waist of the slacks to assure the correct waist size. NOTE: Operation 17.a shall be performed prior to Operation 14.b. b. Join the crotch and seat seam from the base of the f