AIR FORCE MIL-T-43932 C-1980 TROUSERS UTILITY (DURABLE PRESS)《(耐久压)实用裤》.pdf

1、MIL-T-43732C 4 U 777970b 0377269 5 MILITARY SPECIFICATION MIL-T-43932C 3 October 1980 SUPERSEDING MIL-T-4 3932B 15 September 1975 TROUSERS, UTILITY, (DURABLE PRESS) o This specification is approved for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specifi

2、cation covers the requirements for polyester/cotton durab le press utility trousers . * 1.2 Classification. The trousers shall be of one type in the following sizes (see 6.2): Type I - Olive Green 507 (see 6.1) Type II - Deleted Schedule of sizes Waist Inseam 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 27,

3、29 25, 27, 29, 31 25, 27, 29, 31, 33 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35 27, 29, 31, 33, 35 29, 31, 33, 35 31, 33, 35 31, 33 31, 33 31, 33 33 Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data wliicb may be of use in improving this document should be address

4、ed to: Natick, MA 01760 by using the self-addressed Standardization Docu- ment Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. US Army Natick Research and Development Laboratories, *U.S. GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE: 1980-703-02314329 FSC 8405 PAGE. Provided by

5、IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-I MIL-T-43732C 84 777770b 0377270 1 m EffL-T-43932C 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMEiTTS * 2.1 Issues of documents. The following docmnents, of the issue in effect on date of invitation for bids or request for proposal, form a

6、 part of this speci- fication to the extent specified herein. SPECIFICATIONS o FEDERAL V-B-871 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) V-F-106 - Fasteners, Slide, Interlocking V-T-280 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole UU-P-268 - Paper, Kraft, Wrapping Use) DDD-L- 2 O - Label: For Cloth

7、ing, Equipage, and Tentage (General PPP-B-636 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard HILITARY MIL-T-43548 - Thread, Polyester, Cotton-Covered PIIL-C-43791 - Cloth, Twill, Polyester/Cotton (Durable Press) NIL-C-43920 - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon STANDARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-751 - Stitches

8、, Seams, and Stitchings MILITARY HIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage NIL-STD-1188 - MIL-STD-1488 - Commercial Packaging of Supplies and Equipment Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Trousers (Copies of specifications, standards, drawings, and publications required by contractors in conne

9、ction with specific procurement functions should be obtained from the procuring activity or as directed by the contracting officer.) * 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specifi- cation to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise indicated, the issue in effect o

10、n date of invitation for bids or request for proposal shall apply. J AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHENISTS AND COLORISTS Technical Nanual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Association of Textile Chemists and C

11、olorists, Research Triangle Park, PO Box 12215, Durham, NC 27709.) S-,“ .*- .,- - - .*I I- _,- i Ik u,:; *- L . .-; 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C LI 7777706 0377273 3 P1IIL-T-43932C TEXTITZ COLOR CARD ASSOCIATION Stan

12、dard Color Card of America, 9th Edition (Application or copies should be addressed to the Textile Color Card Associa- tion of the United States, nc., 24 East 38th Street, New York, NY 10016.) 3 REQUIKEMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the con

13、tractor (see 6.3). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.2 Material (see 6.7). * 3.2.1 Basic material. The basic material for the type I trousers shall be Olive Green 507 and shall conorm to type II, class 1 of XIL-C-43791. 3.2.2

14、 Waistband interlining. The cloth or the waistband interlining shall be 1-3/4 inches wide and shall. conform to type I of MIL-C-43920. * 3.2.3 Buttons. The buttons shall be type IL, class D, style 26, 3u-line conforming to V-B-871. Green BP, Cable 62016 for the type i trousers. The buttons shall hav

15、e a dull finish and shall be Olive 3.2.4 Thread. The thread shall be cotton-covered polyester, ticket Nos. 50 and 70 for seaming and stitching and 30, 3 ply for sewing on buttons. The thread shall conform to XIL-T-43548. * 3.2.4.1 Color and colorfastness. The thread shall be Olive Drab S-1, C.A. 660

16、22 for the type I trousers and shall show colorfastness to laundering, perspiration, and light equal to or better than the standard sample. When no standard sample is available, the dyed thread shall show “good“ fastness to laundering, perspiration, and light. * 3.2.5 Gimp. The cotton gimp for reinf

17、orcing buttonholes shall be No. 8, conforming to type I or type II of V-T-280. S-1, C.A. 66022 for the type I trousers. Tine gimp shall be Olive Drab 3.2.6 Labels. Each pair of trousers shall have a size label and a combina- tion identification-instruction label cwfprng to type 1 of DDD-L-20, except

18、 that the combination identif ication-instruction label shall be Lemon Yellow, Cable No. 70205 in conformance with Che Standard Color Card of America. Fastness to laundering requiremenfs of DDD-L-20 shall apply. 3.2.6,l Size label. The size label shall conform to class 2, Provided by IHSNot for Resa

19、leNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C 4 M 999770b 0377272 5 W MIL-T-439 3 2C 3.2.6.2 Combination label. The combination identification-instruction label shall conform to classes 1 and 3 Combined. be as follows: The body of the instruction shall TROUSERS,

20、 UTILITY, DURABLE PRESS Washing Instructions 1. Machine washing. Use wash and wear cycle. Vash with warm water, 120F using soap or mild detergent. or prespotting. IIeavy stains may require presoaking 2. Hand washing. Wash in warm water, using soap or mild detergent. DO MOT WRING OR TWIST 3. DO NOT S

21、TARCH OR USE ELEACH. 4. drying, Shape and hang. To drip dry, remove from water before last spin cycle, Shape and hang. Dry in tumble dryer at warm setting. Remove immediately at end of 5. If touch-up is required, iron at moderate or synthetic heat setting. DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL 3,2.7 Slide fasten

22、er. The slider fasteners shall be brass, size 3,6 Figure. Figure 1 is furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figure, the written specification shall control. 3.7 Patterns. Standard patterns which provide an allowance of 1/2 inch

23、 for outseams, inseams, seat and crotch seams, slde and bottom edges of hip pockets, front and bottom edges of front pockets, and 3/8 inch for all other seams will be furnished by the Government. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way and are to be used only as a guide far cutting the

24、 contractors working patterns. The working patterns shall be identical to the standard patterns. 3.7.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the trousers shall be cut from the specified material in accordance with the pattern parts indicated in table I. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction o

25、r networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C 84 7777706 037727i1 7 hf IL-T-4 39 32C . TBLE I. List of pattern parts * Pattern Haterial nomenclature Cut parts Basic material Front 2 Rack 2 Front patch pocket 2 Front patch pocket facing i/ 2 Hip pocket (type I trousers) 2 Hip pocke

26、t flap (type I 2 Fly (left-1, right-2) 3 t Tous er s ) - i/ The front patch pocket facing may be roll cut. NOTE: interlining, and for alternate method of making pocket flaps (see operations 1 and 9 of table II). Patterns are not furnished for belt loops, waistband lining, waistband 3.8 Construction.

27、 3.8.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitch, seam and stitching types, as specified in table II shall conform to FED-STD-751. stitch types are given for the same part of the operation, any one of them may be used. of the trousers. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw

28、edges, run-Offs, twists, pleats, puckers, or open seams will result (see 6.4). All seams shall start and finish evenly. maintained so that there is no tight or loose stitching. stitching shall be uniformly gaged throughout the garment. be worked out, that have a depth between the fold of 1/16 inch o

29、r more shall be considered a defect. be set to trim only the ravelled edges of the fabric, stitching shall be 3/8 inch. shall be 1/4 to 5/16 inch with the outside row 1/16 to 1/8 inch from turned edge except where otherwise specified herein. FJhen two or more seam or Where stitch type 401is used, th

30、e looper shall be on the inside Thread tension shall be Edge stitching and top Seams required to The guides and knives for the overedge machines shall The gage of double-lapped, double-stitched seams The gage of safety 3.8.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of seams and stitching produced with

31、301 stitch type, when not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back- tacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch, thread breaks (401 stitch type) may be repaired using 301 stitch type. of a continuous

32、line of stitching (except labels) shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. three stitches. Skipped stitches or Ends The ends of the label stitching shall be overlapped not less than 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-Provided by IHSNot fo

33、r ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C 4 7797706 0377276 2 F.IIL-T-43932C #I w 4 u u 5 u 8 x W i F Z 3 I- V O Z I- 0 - n UJ rn O cn E WU - $2 Z.- Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T

34、-439 32C al 5 ro u O d B O o al * TI u o al W al a iH O u I s alu 58 Fi. wFim OOFi oal rom UalI arou . rl . N m 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-LI3732C 8LJ W 777970b 0377278 b blIL-T-43932C Li: w O U 2 a ma 1 mo zu“ O0 o O O O

35、 vil- m m v) u) $5 -w -1 n O0 o O 3 O w mu) m u) vi u) w z O0 o rld rl II I 0303 03 O O d rl I I Co Co O 4 I Co w O rlrl d O ss m rl rl O a m rl O m . 2 d G al a O U o O a w O al bo a al ci G O I4 w O ci 4 F a *rl o (d w (d cl cn O FJ O VI U al s o O 5 U (d U G O I4 w 3 a) cn c:dE %S $5 ciuaal w w -

36、ale . m 8. z* 10 I Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43932C q 9999706 0377279 O OQ O00 m m- mhm O m O0 O00 L1 v) mmm 2 I c3 2 I cc) 4 O m a r rG O o(b 44 O0 m* 3 .rl 4 4-1 al 4: d d4 d a U G OW NO u a a PEL-T-4 3932C Provided by I

37、HSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43932C 84 7799906 0397280 4 a fi rj h GI; u R d U IH al d W O al bo w al 2 P al i5 3 23 3 u *rl u v) P O . M G- *rl c a O u O u s U u O d 3i d w Ei O !-i w u E: O !-i I 4 1 P E hl I a m 4 rl O m rl Q e7 w B W

38、I- V 3 4 x W I- Z 2 Q W v 3 W -I 3 r =! m i E l- u O - U O Z 2 k Q W m O m E :E 2- Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43332C 84 7773706 0337284 L W XIL-T-439 32C Di w O U 2 4 ma u mo zw y :2 O O O O0 m vi h mr- -w -1 n O O O O0 W m

39、 vi m ln vi W Z v w 3 o rl I I Co Co I Co O 3 L.“Z r-l I v; Co Fi O rl rlrl O O0 .j mu. H n 4 H I tl I Fi O I % 3 8 II) k !?7i U drl coal sw rimo u *rl ai us mu 17 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ MIL-T-q3732C L( 9 777770h 0377286 5

40、MIL-T-4 39 32C ce W O V zw o O m m ma mo O0 m-i O O O i- VI ur W _I W W z n -. CI a u cJ c, W O a, P al rn a, s ti i A I Fi O I B t; W 3 Q I: X W 1 t- Z 3 W v 3 W -I 3 n m 1 2 t- V O c U. O Z O t- - - n II I O OI E LW O Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without lic

41、ense from IHS-,-,-HIL-T-439 32C E W O U 5 u mo u $2 y 25 O0 O0 O0 O mr- mr- mh m r -w -I o Q O0 O0 O0 W mm mm mm vi W z O rl I Co o rl I Co U rl I w O 4 I Co i a v3 v) b rl I d v) i=I 4 I v) $ Iw Fi O drl me ;: sF O0 UI $4 i . w E+ 0 r- N 23 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking

42、 permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C 4 7777706 0377272 O PiIL-T-439 32C 3c 3.10 Finished nieasurements. The finished neasurerknts shall be as shown in table III. TABLE III. Finished measurements in inches inseam 2/ Size 112 i?aist - i/ - 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 35 40 42 44 46 12 13 14 1

43、5 16 17 19 20 21 22 23 ia 27 29 25 27 29 31 25 27 29 31 33 25 27 29 31 33 35 25 27 29 31 33 35 27 29 31 33 35 29 31 33 35 31 33 35 31 33 31 33 31 33 33 +l +1+1 +1 4-1 +1 I - - - - Tolerance - + 112 - - i/ iiith the waistband buttoned, neasure along center of waistband from side edge to side edge. il

44、easure froin crotch seam along the inseam to the hemned botton edge. - 2/ 3.11 Vorkmanshii-, The finished trousers shall conform to the quality of product established by this specification. exceed the applicable point values or defect limits. The occurrence of defects shall not 4 . QUALITY AS SURkiV

45、CF, PROVIS IONS 4.1 Responsibility for inspection. Unless otherwise specified in the contra t, the contractor is responsible for the performnce of all inspection requirements as specified herein. Except as otherwise specified in the contract, the contractor may use his own or any other facilities su

46、itable for the performance of the inspec- tion requirements specified herein, unless disapproved by the Government. The Government reserves the right to perform any of the inspections set forth in the specification where such inspections are deemed necessary to assure supplies and services conform t

47、o prescribed requirements. * 4.2 Quality conformance inspection. Sainpling and examination of the end item shall be performed in accordance with NIL-STD-1488 except that the trousers shall be inspected in accordance with the “SD“ semi-dress classification (except that defect XII a2 shall be a 2 poin

48、t defect) and the sampling provisions shall be in accordance with table IV below in lieu of the “SD“ sampling provisions table in XIL-STD-1488. As a final step in the contractors production control plan before formation of a lot, after pressing, and prior to folding for packaging, each of the trousers shall be examined for the following selected defects: 24 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-T-43732C 84 M 7777706 0377273 2 ElIL-T-439 32C Hole, cut, tear, smash, burn, d