ARMY MIL-C-44379-1989 COATS WOMAN'S CLASSIC DESIGN POLYESTER WOOL AG-344 FUSIBLE《AG-344经典设计易熔毛涤纶女士外套》.pdf

1、MIL-C-44377 84 W 777770b 0380757 = MIL-C-44379(GL) 27 October 1989 MILITARY SPECIFICATION COAT, WOMANS, CLASSIC DESIGN, POLYESTER/WOOL, AG-344, FUSIBLE This specification is approved for use by the Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Department of the Army, and is available for use

2、 by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 1.2 Classification. Scope. This specification covers a woman? s polyester/wool serge coat. The coat shall be of one type in the following classes and sizes (see 6.2). Class 1 - General Officers Class 2 - Officers Class 3 - E

3、nlisted Personnel Schedule of sizes for women Short Short-plus Regular Regular-plus Long Long-plus X-Long -. 6s 8s 10 s 12 s 14 S 16 S 18 S 20 s 6% 8% 10 s+ 12 s+ 14 S+ 16 S+ 18 S+ 20 s+ 4R 6R 8R 10 R 12 R 14 R 16 R 18 R 20 R 4R+ 6% 8 R+ 10 R+ 12 R+ 14 R+ 16 R+ 18 R+ 4L 6L 8L 8L+ 8 XL 10 L 10 L+ 10

4、XL 12 L 12 L+ 12 XL 14 L 14 L+ 14 XL 16 L 16 ti. 18 L 18 L+ 20 L Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions , deletions) and any - pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineeriiig Center, Natick, MA O1

5、 760-5014 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. FSC 8410 AMTC N/A DISTRD3VTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or n

6、etworking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-X-S hor t X-Short plus MIL -C-4 4 379 ( GL) Schedule of sizes for juniors 9 xs 9 xs+ 11 xs 11 xs+ 13 XC 13 XS+. 15 XS 15 XS+ 17 XS 17 XS+ 19 xs 19 xs+ Short Regular Short - plus Regular plus - 3s 3R 3 R+ 5s 5 s+ 5R 5 R+ 7s 7 s+ 7R 7 R+ 9s 9 s+ 9R 9 R+

7、 11 s 11 s+ 11 I? 11 R+ 13 S 13 LS+ 13 R 13 R+ 15 S 15 S+ 15 R 15 R+ 17 S 17 S+ 17 R 19 s 19 s+ Long Long plus - - 3L 5L 7L 7L+ 9L 9 L+ 11 L Il L+ 13 L 13 L+ 2 APPLICJBLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government documents. 2,l. 1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifi- cations, standards, a

8、nd handbooks form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). S

9、PECIFICATIONS FE DE RAL V-T-280 - Thread, Gimp, Cotton, Buttonhole V-T -235 - Thread, Nylon V-T-301 - Thread, Silk CCC-C-438 DDD-L -20 - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, DDD-T -8 6 - Tape, Textile; Cotton, General Purpose PPP-B-636 - Boxes, Shipping, Fiberboard - Cloth, Buckram, Woven and

10、 Nonwoven (General Use (Unbleached, Bleached, or Dyed) MILITARY MIL-C-368 - Cloth, Satin, Rayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon MIL-B-371 - Braid, Textile, Tubular MIL-B-533 - Braid, Textile (Flat) MIL-C-823 - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and Wool 2 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduct

11、ion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-B-3461 - MIL-C-15062 - MIL-P-15064 - MIL-C-15065 - MIL-L-35078 - MIL-T-43548 - MIL-C-43718 - IfCL-C-44121 - MIL-C-44192 - MIL-C-44296 - STANDARDS FE DE ML FED-STD- 191 - FED-STD-751 - MILITARY MIL-STD-105 - MIL-STD-129 - MIL-STD-147 - MIL-

12、STD-731 - MIL-STD-1608 - MIL 4-4 4379 ( GL ) Button, Insignia, Metal, Uniform and Cap Cloth, Flannel, Wool, Undercollar Cloth Pads, Shoulder and Sleeve-Head Coat Fronts Loads, Unit; Preparation of Semiperishable Subsistence Items, Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage, General Specification For

13、Thread, Polyester Core : Cotton-, Rayon-, or Polyester-Covered Cloth, Polyester; Polyester and Cotton; Polyester and Rayon, For Pockets Cloth, Twill, Polyester Container, Shipping and Storage, Coat (Hanger Cloth, Fusibles Pack) - Textile Test Methods Stitches, Seams, and Stitchings Sampling Procedur

14、es and Tables for Inspection Marking for Shipment and Storage Palletized Unit Loads Wality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Coats, Womens, Dress by At tributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and ha

15、ndbooks are available from the Naval Publications and Forms Center, (ATTN: “ODs), 5801 Tabor Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19120-5099.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the docum

16、ents which are DoD adopted are those listed in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networ

17、king permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-443 79 ( GL) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials, 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103

18、-1187.) THE COLOR ASSOCIATION OF THE UNITED STATES Standard Color Card of America Department of Defense Standard Color Card for Sewing Threads (Application for color cards should be addressed to the Color Association of the United States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927. If color cards

19、 are not available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity.) (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents. Thes

20、e documents al50 may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this document and the references cited herein, the text of this document takes precedence. Nothing in this document, however, supersedes

21、 applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First article, When specified (see 6.21, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6.3) in accordance with 4.3. 3.2 Guide sample. Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guida

22、nce and information to the contractor (see 6.4). Variation from this specification may appear in the sample, in which case this specification shall govern. 3.3 Material, It is encouraged that recycled material be used when practical as long as it meets the requirements of this specification. 3.3.1 B

23、asic material. The basic material shall be 11.3 ounce polyester and wool serge, Army Green 344, conforming to type III, class 3 of MIL-C-823. 3.3.2 Lining, The material for the lining shall be rayon twill, Army Green 45, conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-368. As an alternate, the lining material may be

24、 polyester twill, Army Green 461 conforming to MIL-C-44121. 4 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-44379 84 W 7999906 0380963 T W 3.3.3 Binding. The binding for the coat shall be cut on the bias and shall be made of the same material

25、 as the coat lining (see 3.3.2). The width of the bias binding shall be 518 to 718 inch. The binding may be placed on rolls. 3.3.4 Collar interlining. The material for the collar interlining shall be cotton buckram cloth, natural or bleached conforming to type I, class 2 of CCC-C-43 8. 3.3.5 Fusible

26、 interlinings. 3.3.5.1 Small parts fusible interlining. The lapels, front facing, pocket flaps, top sleeve, under sleeve, top collar, lapel notch reinforcement, bound buttonhole piping (non-automatic construction), and shoulder loops, known as “small parts“ shall use a black or charcoal, nonwoven fu

27、sible interlining. It shall conform to either type V or VI, class 1, style A or B or type VIII, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distri- buted powder dot, paste dot, spunfused, or sintered nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance w

28、ith good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same small parts fusible material. As an alternate, a black or charcoal, woven, lightweight fusible interlining for small parts, conforming to type I, class 1, style A of MIL-C-44296 may be used. 3.3.5.2 Fronts fusible interlining. T

29、he fusible interlining for the coat and side body fronts shall be a black or charcoal napped woven twill material conforming to type II, class 1, style B of MIL-C-44296. The material shall have a uniformly distributed dot type nylon polyamide fusible adhesive evenly applied to one side in accordance

30、 with good commercial practice. Any given coat shall incorporate the same fronts fusible material. 3.3.5.3 Fused state bonding strength. The small parts and fronts fusible material for preproduction and in-process testing shall meet an initial minimum bonding strength requirement in the warp (machin

31、e) direction of 32 ounces per inch or splits prior to drycleaning when tested as specified in 4.4.2, and minimum 24 ounces per inch or splits in the warp (machine) direction after three drycleanings and pressings when tested as specified in 4.4.3.1. Additionally the small parts fusible interlining w

32、ill be accepted if it either begins to debond from the outer shell material equivalent to the minimum bond strength or higher and then splits from itself or if the small parts fusible interlining readily splits from itself at a minimum tear strength of 6.0 ounces (170 grams) per inch. As an option,

33、the bonding strength test may be conducted up to two hours after the initial fusing takes place. 3.3.5.4 Colorfastness. All dyed finished fusible interlining materials shall show fastness to drycleaning as specified in MIL-C-44296, except when no standard sample is available, the finished fusible ma

34、terials shall show “fair“ fastness to drycleaning. 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-3.3.5.5 Shrinkage. The interlining, after fusing to the basic cloth as specified in 3.3.5.6, shall not exceed 1.5 percent differential shrinkage when

35、 tested as specified in 4.4b3.1 and shall not exceed 2.0 percent shrinkage after drycleaning when tested a! required in 4.4.3.1. All drycleaned materials shall not exhibit any sign of bubbling, puckering or delamination. 3.3.5.6 Fusing press operating procedure and conditions. A single layer of fusi

36、ble interlining shall be fused to a single layer of basic material on a dry electrically heated conveyor type fusing press which has the capacity of controlling and retaining pressure, dwell time, and temperature for a minimum of 8 hours. stitching, and uneven bonding shall not be permitted. press s

37、hall not be allowed for any initial fusing operations. results, the fusible material manufacturers recommendations for fusing dwell time, pressure, and temperature, based upon the fusing equipment used and basic material being fused, shall be utilized. Common fusing press settings shall be establish

38、ed in order to fuse both the small parts and fronts fusibles together. Basic preproduction and production maintenance procedures, including a fusing press information chart, shall be required to assure proper fusing press performance relative to temperature control, evenness in pressure head or roll

39、er contact, dwell time and cleanliness. Results of the production maintenance procedures shall be recorded on figure 4. Pair or sandwich fusing which can create differential shrinkage, For optimum A steam sourced fusing 3.3.6 Twill cloth. The material for the lower hanging pockets, inside chest pock

40、et, bridle stays, back neck stay, armhole stays, chest pocket stays, and front edge stays shall be polyester and cotton or polyester and rayon cloth matching the shade of the basic material or black conforming to class 1 of MIL-C-43718, except that the nonfibrous material content and colorfastness r

41、equirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3.3.7 Undercollar material. The material for the undercollar shall be wool flannel, Army Green 48 conforming to MIL-C-15062, except that the colorfastness requirements for perspiration and crocking shall not apply. 3,3.8 Chest piece. The che

42、st piece for the coat shall conform to type XXV of MIL-C-15065 . 3.3.9 Braid. 3.3.9.1 Hanger loop. The braid for the hanger loop shall conform to type IX, class 1 of MIL-B-371. The color shall match the basic material and shall show “good“ fastness to crocking and wet drycleaning. 3.3.9.2 Ornamentat

43、ion (sleeve braid) for class 1 and 2 coats. The ornamentation for the sleeves of the class 1 coat shall be 1-1/2 inches and for class 2 coat shall be 1/2 inch wide, mohair braid, Black 194 conforming to type I, class 3 of MIL-B-593, except that colorfastness to perspiration shall not apply. 6 Provid

44、ed by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-C-44377 84 W 9999706 OL09b5 3 = P MIL 4-4 4 3 7 9 ( GL ) 3.3.10 Labels. Each coat shall have a class 2 size.labe1 and a class 15 combination identification and instruction label conforming to type VI of D

45、DD-L-20. The labels shall show fastness to drycleaning. The combination identification and instruction label shall include the following information: COAT, WOMANS, CLASSIC DESIGN, POLYESTER/WOOL, AG-344, FUSIBLE 1. DRY CLEAN ONLY. 2. Use a damp cloth for all outside pressing. 3. Roll press (without

46、creasing) sleeves and lapels. 4. 5. DO NOT REMOVE THIS LABEL. Remove gloss marks at edges and seams with iron and damp cloth. 3.3.11 Shoulder pads. The shoulder pads shall conform to type III, class 1 of MIL-P-15064. 3.3.12 Sleeve-heads. The sleeve-heads shall conform to type IV of MIL-P-15064, exce

47、pt that the length shall be 12 to 12-1 /2 inches. 3.3.13 Stay tape. The material for the stay tape shall be cotton, preshrunk conforming to type I, classes 1, 2 or 3 (dyed black) of DDD-T-86, except that the requirement for non-fibrous material shall not apply. When black tape is used,it shall show

48、colorfastness to wet drycleaning, perspiration, and crocking. The stays shall be 1/4 inch for armholes and back shoulder. As an alternate, a fusible edge tape, as specified in 3.3.13.1, may be used. 3.3.13.1 Fusible edge tape. The fusible edge tape shall be type I, style B, class 1, dyed black or ch

49、arcoal conforming to MIL-C-44296, except that it shall be cut in the filling (cross cut) direction at a width of l/4 +1/8, -0 inch. The edges shall be sewn toge,ther using a Ma-1 seam with a 304 stitch at 12- 16 stitches per inch with 70/2 thread conforming to MIL-T-43548. All sewn edges shall be within the fusible dot area such that the adhesive will not exhibit any breaks or blank areas on either side of the joining seam. 3.3.14 Thread. 3.3.14.1 Thread, polye