ARMY MIL-H-43162 F-1988 HAT SERVICE WOMAN'S WOOL OR POLYESTER AND WOOL《毛涤纶或毛女式服务帽》.pdf

1、? . Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be of use in improving this document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Matick, MA 01760-5014 by using the self-addressed Standardization Document Imp

2、rovement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. * MIL -H-43 162F( GL ) 26 July i9S SUPERSEDING MIL -H-4 3 1 62E ( GL ) 13 May 1976 MILITARY SPECIFICATION HAT, SERVICE, WOMANS, WOOL OR POLYESTER AND WOOL This specification is approved for use by all Departments an

3、d Agencies of the Department of Defense. 10 SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This document covers a womans wool or polyester and wool hat. 1.2 Classification. The hat shall be of one type and in the following sizes (see 6.2). SCHEDULE OF SIZES 20 -7/2, 21, 21-1/28 22, 22-1/2, 23, 23-1/2 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1

4、Government documents. 2.1 1 Specifications, standards, and handbooks. The following specifi- cations, standards, and handbooks form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these documents shall be those listed in the issue of the Departm

5、ent of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DODISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solicitation, DISTRIBZPTION STATEMENT A. Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited. 5- - - THIS DOCUMENT CONTAINS y8 PAGES. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permi

6、tted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-H-43LhZF 4 m 7777906 0372276 5 SPECIFICATIONS FE DE RAL L-P-378 V-T-276 JJ-W-155 DDD-L -20 PPP -B -6 36 PPP-T-45 MILITARY MIL -C-3 6 8 MIL-C-823 MIL -L -35 07 8 MIL-C-43920 S TAN DA R DS FEDE RAL PED-STD- 191 FE D-ST D-75 1 MILITARY MIL-STD- 105 MILSTD-I29 MILST

7、D-147 MILSTD-73 1 - Plastic Sheet and Strip, Thin Gauge, Polyolefin - Thread, Cotton - Webbing, Textile, (Cotton, Elastic) - Label: For Clothing, Equipage, and Tentage, - Boxes) Shipping, Fiberboard - Tape, Gummed, Paper, Reinforced and Plain, for (General Use) Sealing and Securing - Cloth, Satin, R

8、ayon and Cloth, Twill, Rayon - Cloth, Serge; Wool, Wool and Nylon, Polyester and - Loads, Unit: Preparation of Semiperishable Wool Subsistence Items; Clothing, Personal Equipment and Equipage, General Specification For - Cloth, Interlining, Cotton or Synthetic, and Nylon - .Textile Methods - Stitche

9、s, Seams, and Stitchings - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection - Marking for Shipment and Storage - Palletized Unit Loads - Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets by Attributes (Copies of specifications, standards, and handbooks required by contractors in connection with specif

10、ic acquisition functions should be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity. 1 2.2 Other publications. The following documents form a part of this specification to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are

11、DOD adopted shall be those listed in the issue of the DODISS specified in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS shall be the issues of the nongovernment documents which are current on the date of the solicitation. 2 _ _ - - - Provided by IHSNo

12、t for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-H-43Lb2F 4 777770b 0372277 7 MIL-H-43 1 62F (GL) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D 3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be addressed to the American Soci

13、ety for Testing and Materials,. 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103.) (Nongovernment standards and other publications are normally available from documents also may be available in or through libraries or other informational services.) . the organizations which prepare or which distribute the d

14、ocuments. These 2.3 Order of precedence. In the event of a conflict between the text of this specification and the references cited herein, the text of this specification shall take precedence. shall supersede applicable laws and regulations unless a specific exemption has been obtained. Nothing in

15、this specification, however, 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 Guide sample. Samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and information to the contractor (see 6.3). Variations from the document may appear in the sample, in which case the document shall govern. 3.2 First article. When specified in the contra

16、ct or purchase order, a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 4.2, 6.2, and 6.4). 3.3 Materials. (See 6.5). 3.3.1 Basic material. The basic material shall be Army Green 344 wool serge conforming to type I, class 8 of MIL-C-823 or shall be Armv Green 344 polyester and wool serge

17、conforming to type III, class 2 or class 3 of MIL-C-823. 3.3.2 Lining. The material for the lining shall be rayon cloth, shade Army Green 45, conforming to class 1 or class 2 of MIL-C-368. 3.3.3 Crown interlining. The crown interlining material shall be haircloth having an unbleached cotton warp and

18、 a natural horsehair filling and Conforming to the requirements listed below when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1. MIL-C-43920 may be used. As an alternate, cloth interlining conforming to type I or II of Weight, ounces per square yard 9.0 to 10.4 Yarns per inch, minimum: Warp Filling 60, two-ply cot

19、ton yarn 90, (natural horsehair) . 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-H-43Lb2F 84 W 777770b 0372278 7 MIL-H-43 162F( GL) Weave Stiffness, load pounds, minimum: Warp Filling 2/8 (5 harness satin) (2 warp ends weaving as O. 070 o. O9

20、0 3.3.4. Crinoline. The material for tip lining, band facing interlining, backing the interlining of the brim, and for extending the brim interlining shall be bleached cotton crinoline conforming to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1 : Weight, ounces per square yard Break

21、ing strength, pounds, minimum (total of warp and filling) Stiffness, load pounds, minimum (total of warp and filling) Yarns per inch, minimum: Warp Filling Weave 2.3 to 3.1 45 0.035 40 30 Plain 3.3.5 Felt. The material for interlining the brim shall be pressed felt, - made from white, black, or natu

22、ral fiber, conforming to the following requirements when tested as specified in 4.3.1.1 : Weight, ounces per square yard Thickness, inches Ball burst strength, pounds minimum Starch and protein content including chloroform and water soluble material, 9.0 to 10.5 0.065 to 0.075 35 percent, maximum St

23、iffness load pounds, (total of machine and Before drycleaning After drycleaning Wool content 20 minimum cross directions): 0.77 0.65 25 to 40 percent (balance to be viscose rayon) 3.3.6 Sweatband ribbon. The ribbon for sweatband shall be 7/8 to 1 inch wide black rayon or rayon and cotton grosgrain a

24、nd shall show fastness to wet- drycleaning (surface type cleaning) and perspiration equal to or better than the standard sample or equal to or better than a rating of “good“. The ribbon shall show fastness to crocking equal to or better than the standard sample or shall have an AATCC Chromatic Trans

25、ference Scale rating of 3.5. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1 .l, Table V. 3.3.7 Elastic webbing. The elastic webbing for attaching band to the hat shall be dyed black, conforming to type II, class 1 or class 2 of JJ-W-155, except that the requirements for colorfastness shall not apply. 4 I. P

26、rovided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,- flIL-H-Lt3l62F BLt 7797706 0372297 O m I MIL -H-4 3 162F( GL) 3.3.8 Thread. The thread shall be cotton, machine, type IA3, ticket No. 50, 3-ply and ticket No. 70, 2-ply for inside stitching, and type IC

27、2, ticket No. O, 3-ply for outside stitching, conforming to V-T-276. Type IC2 thread may be used for inside stitching. The thread shall be dyed Green E, C.A. 66034 except that the thread used for attaching the sweatband (operation 14.b, table II), shall be dyed Black AA, C.A. 66043. The black thread

28、 may be used as bobbin thread for operation 13.c, table II. Any of these threads may be used for basting. 3.3.8.1 Thread colorfastness. Both types IA3 and type IC2 threads shall show fastness to wet-dry cleaning equal to or better than the standard sample or equal to or better than a rating of llgoo

29、dll. The type IC2 thread shall show fastness to light equal to or better than a rating of llgoodll. Testing shall be as specified in 4.3.1.1, table V. 3.3.9 Label. Each hat shall conform to type VI, class 4 of DDD-L-20. The fastness to dry cleaning requirements of DDD-L-20 shall apply. 3.3.10 Tip pr

30、otector. The material for tip protector and name card insert shall be polyethylene film, 0.004 inch thick, conforming to type I, class 1, grade A, B, or C, finish 1 of L-P-378. 3.4 Design. The hat, as shown on figure 1, is a fabric hat reinforced by interlinings and shaped over a millinery block. cr

31、own, an all-over stitched brim rolled at back and straight at front, and a removable band for insignia. The hat has an oval shaped 3.5 Figures. Figures are furnished for information only. To the extent of any inconsistencies between the written specification and the figures, the specification shall

32、control. 3.6 Patterns. Sample Government blocks (one crown and one brim) will be loaned to the contractor so that he may procure a set of blocks to be used in the fabrication of the end item. Standard patterns for use in cutting working patterns will be furnished by the Government. Neither the Gover

33、nment patterns nor the contractors working pattern shall be altered in any way. allowance shall be 1/4 inch except as otherwise specified herein. crown and brim, shall be properly blocked on the standard blocks to be furnished by the Government. The sample blocks shall be returned to the Government

34、in good condition upon completion of contract or order. The seam Each hat, 3.6.1 Pattern parts. The component parts of the hat shall be cut from materials specified and in accordance with the number of pattern parts required for the manufacturing process as follows: 5 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo

35、 reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-_ - -F -_I MIL-H-43162F BLJ M 7797706 0372300 3 MIL -H-43 1 62F( GL ) TABLE I. List of Pattern Parts Material Pattern nomenclature Cut parts Basic material Rayon lining Haircloth or Alternate fabric Cri no line Side crown I/ Tip I/ B

36、rim- - Band Band facing 2/ - Side crown lining Tip lining - 3/ Side crown I/ Tip L/ - Side crown 5/ - Band facing (interlining) - 2/ Tip lining 3/ Brim interlyning - 4/ Brim interlining 4/ - Felt Pol ye thy1 ene Tip lining 3/ Card insert- 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 1 1 1 Shaper Band I/ The same pattern p

37、art is used for cutting the basic material and haircloth. , - 2/ The same pattern part is used for cutting the basic material and - crinoline. 3/ The same pattern part is used for cutting the rayon, crinoline and - polyethylene. The same pattern part is used for cutting the crinoline and felt. 4/ -

38、5/ When alternate material is used for the crown interlining, see operation 1.a of table II. - 6 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-t a - a 3,7 Cons truc tion. 3.7.1 Stitches, seams, and stitchings. Stitch, seam, and stitching types spec

39、ified in table II, shall conform to FED-STD-751. When two or more seam or stitch types are given for the same part of an operation, any one of them may be used. shall be on the inside of the hat. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, runoffs, twists, pleats, or op

40、en seams result. Where stitch type 101 or 401 is used, the looper (underthread), 3.7.1.1 Stitches per inch. The minimum and maximum number of stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II. 3.7.1.2 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Ends of all seams and stitchings (except label), when not caught

41、 in other seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than l/4 inch. Ends of a continuous line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch. stitching back of the break not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks on 401 or 101 seaming may be repaired using a 301 stitch

42、type. Thread breaks shall be secured by 3.8 Manufacturing operations requirements. The hat shall be manufactured in accordance with operation requirements specified in table II. The contractor is not required to follow the exact numerical sequence of operations listed. Any additional basting or hold

43、ing stitching to facilitate manufacture is permissible provided the thread is removed or does not show on the finished garment. 3.8.1 Shade marking. The component parts of the hat shall be shade marked or bundled to insure a uniform shade and size throughout the hat. Any method of shade marking may

44、be used except: a. Corrosive metal fastening devices. No metal device shall be used on rayon lining. b. Sewn-on shade tickets. C. Adhesive type tickets which leave an impression or traces of paper or adhesive on the material upon removal of the tickets. 3.8.2 Pressing and blocking. steam pressing ir

45、on, except as otherwise specified in table II. Blocking shall be as specified in table II. Pressing shall be accomplished with a heated 7 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-1 I _- . -_ MIL-H-432b2F 84 979970b 0392302 7 MIL -H-43 162F( GL

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