1、I INCH-POUND I MIL-S-44039C(GL) 10 October 1990 SUPERSEDING MIL-S-44039B(GL) 29 June 1988 MILITARY SPECIFICATION SHIRT, MANS, LONG SLEEVE, POLYESTER/COTTON, ARMY GREEN 415, DURABLE PRESS This specification is approved for use by the U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Dep
2、artment of the Army, and is available for use by all Departments and Agencies of the Department of Defense. 1. SCOPE 1.1 Scope. This specification covers a polyesterlcotton broadcloth durable press shirt. 1.2 Classification. The shirt shall be of the following sizes as specified (see 6.2): Schedule
3、of sizes-inches Neck size Sleeve lengths 29 3013 1 32/33 34/35 36/37 38 13 -1 3- 1 / 2 14 14-112 15 15-112 16 16-112 X X x . x X X X X X X X X X X -x X X -x X X X X X X X X X X X X Beneficial comments (recommendations, additions, deletions) and any pertinent data which may be used in improving this
4、document should be addressed to: U.S. Army Natick Research, Development, and Engineering Center, Natick, MA 01760-5014 by using the Standardization Document Improvement Proposal (DD Form 1426) appearing at the end of this document or by letter. AMSC N/A FSC 8405 DISTRIBUTION STATEMENT A. Approved fo
5、r public release; distribution is unlimited. Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44037C 84 m 7777706 0456870 3 m Schedule _ . of sizes-inches (contd) . Neck size- Sleeve lengths 29 30/31 32/33 34/35 36/37 38 . 17 X X X 17-1/2 X X x
6、18 X x _- 2. APPLICABLE DOCUMENTS 2.1 Government . . doeuments. . The following orm a part of this document to the extent specif led herein, documents are those listed in the issue of the Department of Defense Index of Specifications and Standards (DORISS) and supplement thereto, cited in the solici
7、tation (see 6.2). Unless otherwise specified, the issues of these SPECIFICATIONS FEDERAL A-A-50083 - Bag, Plastic, Folded Garment A-A-50199 - .Thread, Polyester Core, Cotton- or Polyester-Covered V.-B-87 1 - Button, Sewing Hole, and Button, Staple, (Plastic) PRD-L-2O - Label: For Clothing, Equipage,
8、 and Tentage, - (General Use PPP-8-636 - Boxesr Shipping, Fiberboard MILITARY MIL-L-35708 = Loadsr Unit: Preparation a semiperishable Subs is tence Items ; Clothing Personal Equipment and - Equipage MIL-C-43594 - Cloth, Interlining, Polyester MTL-T-43624 - Thread? Polyester, Spun MIL-43992 3 Cloth;
9、-Broadcloth, Polyester/Catton, Durable Press MIL-T-44193 - Thread, Polyester Tegtured MIL-C-44296 - Cloth, Fusible MIL-P-55010- - Plastic Sheet, Polyethylene Terephthalate STWBARDS FEDERAL FED-STD-$91 - Textile Fest Methcids FED-STP-751 7 Stitches Seams and Stitchinks 2 -. _ . : _. r :. i . .- . . .
10、_ . 1 1. . . ,-. d . . .- Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-4q037C 84 777770b Oq5b71 5 . a e- MIL I TARY MIL-STD-105 - Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by MIL-STD-129 - Marking for Shipment and Storage MIL-STD-147 - P
11、alletized Unit Loads MIL-STD-731 - Quality of Wood Members for Containers and Pallets MIL-STD-1492 - Provisions for Evaluating Quality of Mens Shirts Attributes (Unless otherwise indicated, copies of federal and military specifications, standards, and handbooks are available from the Standardization
12、 Documents Order Desk, Building 4D, 700 Robbins Avenue, Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094.) 2.2 Non-Government publications. The following documents form a part of this document to the extent specified herein. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of the documents which are DOD adopted shall be those lis
13、ted in the issue of the DODISS cited in the solicitation. Unless otherwise specified, the issues of documents not listed in the DODISS are the issues of the documents cited in the solicitation (see 6.2). AMERICAN ASSOCIATION OF TEXTILE CHEMISTS AND COLORISTS (AATCC) Technical Manual of the American
14、Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Method 88B (Two photographs) - Photographic Comparative Rating of Single and Double Needle Seams Method 124-78 - Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings (Application for copies should be addressed to the Executive Director, Am
15、erican Association of Textile Chemists and Colo-rists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, Durham, NC 27709-2215.) AMERICAN IRON AND STEEL INSTITUTE (ALSI) Type Number 304 - Stainless and Heat Resistant Steel Type Number 316 - Stainless and Heat Resistant Steel (Application for copies of Steel P
16、roduct Manual should be addressed to the American Iron and Steel Institute, 150 East 42nd Street, New York, NY 10017.-) AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTING AND MATERIALS (ASTM) D-204 - Methods of Testing Sewing Threads D-3951 - Standard Practice for Commercial Packaging (Application for copies should be ad
17、dressed to the American Society for Testing and Materials , 1916 Race Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103-1187.) 3 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44037C 4 m 9777906 0456872 7 m MfL-S-44039C(GL) COLOR ASSCfAfION OF TH UNITED STATES S
18、tandard Color Card of America Department of Defense Standard Shades for Sewing Threads beprtrent of befense Standard Shades for Buttons (Application fdr color cards should be addfessed to the Color Association of the nited States, 343 Lexington Avenue, New York, NY 10016-0927, If color cards are not
19、 available from the Color Association, individual color samples may be obtained from the contracting activity or as directed by the contracting activity, 1 (Non-Government standards and other publications are normally available from organizations that prepare or distribute the documents may be avail
20、able in OP thraugh libraries or othr informational services.) These documents also 2.3 or,der of precedence, In the event of a conflict betwen the text of this . document hd the references cited herein, the text of.this document takes hing in this docment, .however, supersedes laws and regulations u
21、nless specific eiteinption has been obtained. 3. REQUIREMENTS 3.1 First rti.cle, Wheh speckfied (see 6,S), a sample shall be subjected to first article inspection (see 6,4), in accordance with 4,3, 3.2 Guide samples; Guide samples, when furnished, are solely for guidance and inftmation to the contra
22、ctor se 6,4), may appear inthe sample, in hhich case this spcificatin shall-goverfi. Variation from this specification 3.3 Mat,eyia-ls. t is encouraged that recycled inaterial be used when practical as long as it meets th requirements of-this specifitation, 3,3,1 hal be natural (clear or opaque), an
23、d the transparency and uptical prperties shall not apply. be rounded or pointed with the points rounded, r one nd rounded and one end cut at any angle with the point ruunded, examination shall be as specified in Either both ends shall 4+4,1,2a 3,3,6,1 Collar- stay con$gutatipnss. 3.3.6.1.1 Unsltted.
24、-$.tayc, The Stays sh3Ll measure 3/8 2 1/32 inch wide and 2-3/4 to 2-1/8 inches long, Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44037C 4 M 7777706 O45b75 2 3.3.6.1.2 Slotted stays. 2-3/4 to 2-7/8 inches long, long, centered along the leng
25、th of the stay. Each slot shall be 1/32 f 1/64 inch wide and spaced approximately an equal distance across the width of the stay. The stays shall measure 1/2 2 1/32 inch wide and The stay shall have two slots 1-3/8 2 1/32 inches 3.4 Design. The shirt is a long sleeve dress style with a standup colla
26、r. It has a seven button front, two breast pockets with button through flaps, pen pocket inside the left breast pocket, and shoulder loops. The collar, collar- stand, shoulder loops, pocket flaps, cuffs, and front facing have a fusible interlining; the collar has stays; and the shirt is of a safety-
27、stitch construction with a yoke. The front facing is fused to the front shirt body (see figure 1). 3.5 Patterns. Standard patterns will be furnished by the Government and, unless otherwise indicated, provide an allowance of 1/4 inch for all seams except 3/8 inch for attaching the cuffs and setting p
28、en and breast pockets. The standard patterns shall not be altered in any way (except when automated apparel equipment is used for either making or setting pen and breast pockets, flaps, cuffs, collar, collarstand, and/or shoulder loops, see 3.9) and are to be used only as a guide or cutting the cont
29、ractors working patterns, which shall be identical to the standard patterns. . 3.5.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the shirt shall be cut from the material as specified below, in accordance with the pattern parts indicated. TABLE I. List of pattern parts Ma ter i a 1 Nomenclature of patte
30、rn parts Cut parts Basic-material e Front Back Yoke Sleeve Sleeve facing (binding) Top cuff l/ Under cuf? Top collar Under collar Top shoulder loop Under shoulder loop Collarstand Stay holder 2/ Pocket 3/ Pocket flap 3/ Pen pocket 7 2 1 2 2 2 2 2- 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 4 1 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo re
31、production or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44039C 4 W 9999906 0456876 4 W TABLE I, tist of pattern parts (cantd) Mat er ia 1 Nomenciatureof pattern parts Cut parts Fusible interlining Collarstand interlining 4/ 1 Shoulder loop interlining 2 Pocket flap interlining 2 Cuff i
32、nterlining i/ 2 Coilar leaf interiining 1 Front facing (turnhack) interlining 2 . Template Pocket marker c i/ - 2/ If used. - 3/ i/& inch may he added to three sides (see operation l.d.).I - 4/ When automatic creasehand method is used, cut 2 collarstand interlinings. When cuff setting operation 22a.
33、 and b. are usedl add 1/8 inch to the top cuff and cuff interlining patterns, 3.6 End item seam appearance, appearance of fusibles, and adhesion of - ultrasonically fused collar stays, - - - -. _ - 3,6,1 Seam appearance rating of fusibles. After the finished shirt has been laundered five times (see
34、414.5), the appearance rating af the seams and stitching shall be as fallows: Minimum average - Parts 8f 3 ahservtions Fused collar 3.8 Shoulder loops 3.3 Pocket flaps 3.3 Pockets 2.8 Cuffs 3,3 Underarm seams 2.8 Yoke 2.8 Armholes 223 Side seams 2.8 3.6.2 Appearance of fusibles for bubbling or delam
35、ination of collars. After the shirt-has been laundered 10 timas, the shirt shall show no bubbling or delamination of the fused plies of material when tested as specified in 4.4.5. There shall he no showing of the “strike-through“ of the adhesive after fusing, Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduc
36、tion or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44039C 84 999990b 0456877 6 M 3.6.3 Adhesion of ultrasonically fused collar stays. After the shirt has been laundered 10 times, the shirt shall show no delamination or curling of the ultrasonically fused collar stays when tested as spec
37、ified in 4.4.5. There shall be no delamination of any fused points. See 6.9 for recommended ultrasonic welding conditions. 3.7 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in table II and herein. 3.7.1 Stitches, seams and stitching. All stitches, seams a
38、nd stitching shall conform to FED-STD-751. The type of seam, stitching and stitches per inch shall be as specified in table II. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that no raw edges, run-Offs, pleats, puckers or open seams occur. When two or more methods of seams or stitches are g
39、iven for the same operation, any one may be used. 3.7.1.1 Type 301 stitching, Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched 1/4 to 1/2 inch minimum except when caught in other stitching or turned under in a hem. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitchin
40、g resulting in puckering of material sewn. The lock shall be embedded in the material sewn. 3.7.1.1.1 be as follows: Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stit
41、ching a minimum of 1 inch behind the end of the stitching. - i/ b. Thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1 inch before the defective area and continue a minim
42、um of 1 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching, without damaging the materials, and restitching in the required manner. i-/ i/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are
43、not reqired to be backst itched. 3.7.1.2 Type 401 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching. Both ends of seams or stitching produced with a 401 stitch type, when not turned under a hem or held down by other stitching, shall. have a l/Z to 3/4 inch chain
44、extending beyond each end. The looper (under thread) shall always be on the inside of the shirt. using a 301 stitch in accordance with 3.7.1.1.la or 3.7.1.1.lb. Repairs may be made by 9 Provided by IHSNot for ResaleNo reproduction or networking permitted without license from IHS-,-,-MIL-S-44039C 4 7
45、77970b 0456878 3.7.1.3 Type 502, 503, 515, 516 arid 519 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be no loose stitching, All repaifs shall be in accordance with 3.7.1.1,l.a and b except substitute 3/4 inch for 1 inch wherever 1 inch appears. Thread tension shall be maintained
46、so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. 3.9.1.4 Bartacking, Bartacking shall be 1/2 + 1/16 Inch long, 1/8 j. 1/32 inch wide and shall contain 28 stitches (minimum). thread breaks and loose stitching, Bartacks shall be free from 3.7.
47、2 Buttonholes, The buttonholes shall be straight-cut, purl-or whip type and the finished cut length shall be 1/2 to 9/16 inch long, The stitching shall be securely caught in the fabric and the ends shall be securely tacked. When a purl-type buttonhole is used, the purling shall be on the outside of
48、the shirt, All loose thread ends shall be trimmed or fused to within 1/8 inch of the tack, Additive treatments or materials iised to secure the ends of the stitching or to stiffen the fabric prior to stitching the buttonholes are prohibited. 3.7.3 Ose of automated apparel equipment. Automated appare
49、l equipment may be used to perform any of the operations specified in Table II, providing that the seam and stitch type areas specified and the finished component conforms to the required configurations. 3bf.4 Thre,ad-ends, All thread ends that are visible on the finished item shall be Fimmed to a length of not more than 1/4 inch. 3.7.5 Repairs. Repairs such as mends, darns, patches
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