ASTM D1517-2010 Standard Terminology Relating to Leather《与皮革相关的标准术语》.pdf

1、Designation: D1517 10Standard Terminology Relating toLeather1, 2This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1517; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates

2、 the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.INTRODUCTIONThese definitions are divided into two groups: the first group covers general terms, and the secondgroup covers definitions applicable to sampling.The definitions of

3、general terms include some of those encountered by personnel concerned withspecifications and procurement of hides, leather and leather products by the Federal Government.The definitions applicable to sampling are mainly to be used in connection with the sampling for,and testing of, physical and che

4、mical properties.Terms adequately defined by unabridged dictionaries are not generally included.GENERAL TERMSalligatora general term used for leather made from the skinsof all aquatic species with a grain similar to the americanalligator which cannot be killed legally and, therefore, is notused by t

5、he United States industry.alligator-grained leatherleather of various types, such ascalf, sheep or cattlehide embossed to resemble the grain ofalligator hide.alum leatherleather produced by alum tannage, usually incombination with other substances. Before the invention ofchrome-tanning this was the

6、principal method of tanningwith mineral agents.aniline dyed leatherleather which has been colored bytransparent dyes as distinguished from leather treated bypigments or other opaque material.aniline finisha clear finish with little or no pigmentation.antelope finish suedeapplied to lambskin, goatski

7、n, orcalfskin, sueded and finished to resemble antelope.antelope leathera fine, soft leather made from an antelopeskin, velvety in texture and sheen, sueded on the flesh side.This leather is so rare, that for practical purposes, it isvirtually nonexistent.apron leathersany one of several varieties o

8、f leather used inconnection with textile machinery and blacksmith aprons.Comber and Gill Box apron leather is soft, mellow, toughleather, tanned from steerhides, heavily stuffed and boardedor otherwise softened. Rub Roll apron leather is a flexiblebut firm, dry, strong leather.aspergillus nigerone o

9、f the most common mold growthsfound on vegetable tanning vats and on leather, usuallygreenish or blackish in color.automobile leathersee upholstery leather.backa crop with the head trimmed off behind the horn holes.(OZUP in Fig. 1.)bactericidea chemical that kills bacteria.bag leathera general term

10、for leathers used in traveling bagsand suitcases. It does not include the light leathers employedfor womens fancy handbags. The staple material for bagand case leather at present is leather made from the hides ofanimals of the bovine species, but heavy sealskins andgoatskins are also used.bark tanna

11、geleather tanned by use of vegetable tanninsfound in barks, wood, and other plant derivatives, asdistinguished from mineral tannages.barkometera hydrometer used for determining the specificgravity of tanning solutions. A specific gravity of 1.000 isequivalent of 0 deg barkometer (Bk), and each addit

12、ionaldegree Bk is equivalent to an increase of 0.001 in specificgravity.baseball leatherleather used for covers of baseballs. Thebetter grades of balls have covers of alum-tanned horsehidefront leather. Some cheaper grades are made of kip andsheepskins.basiluncolored vegetable-tanned sheepskin and l

13、ambskin.bateto treat unhaired hides or skins with a warm aqueoussolution of an enzyme in order to remove certain undesirablenitrogenous constituents.beama convex wooden slab sloping downward from aboutwaist height over which a hide is placed for trimming offexcess flesh and ragged edges and scudding

14、 by hand.belting butta double back with the tail cut off at the buttline. (RUT8SinFig. 1.)1This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D31 on Leatherand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D31.91 on Terminology.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2010. Published October 2010. O

15、riginallyapproved in 1957. Last previous edition approved in 2006 as D1517 06. DOI:10.1520/D1517-10.2These definitions have been developed in cooperation with the AmericanLeather Chemists Assn. (Definitions of Terms X1-1961).1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Con

16、shohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.belting butt benda double bend with the tail cut off at thebutt line. (RR8S8SinFig. 1.)bellythat part of the hide below the belly line. (VWP8PinFig. 1.) For steerhide leather, the belly line (RU) passesthrough a point at or above the top of the rear break. For

17、cowhide leather, the belly line passes through a point at orabove the top of the front break and a point not more than212 in. (64 mm) below the top of the rear break.benda back with the shoulder cut off at right angles to thebackbone line at the break of the fore flank. (OYR8PinFig.1.)biffto beat a

18、salted hide that has been placed on a rack, inorder to shake loose salt from the hair.biocidea chemical that destroys microorganisms (for ex-ample, bacteria, fungi) that can be detrimental to hides, wetblue, wet white, and leather.bisonleather made from hides of the American Bison,commonly referred

19、to as the North American Buffalo, andnot from the domesticated Asian or Eastern Water Buffalo.bisulfitingthe treatment of hot solutions of vegetable tanningextracts with sodium bisulfite in order to increase theirsolubility and rate of take-up by hides.bleaching(1) the process of removing oxidized t

20、annins andinsoluble materials from the surface layers of leather, inorder to prevent crackiness of the grain. It is performed bydipping the leather in a weak alkaline solution to render thetannin readily soluble, dipping in water, neutralizing in weakacid solution and washing.(2) the process of ligh

21、tening the color of chrome leatherby treating with synthetic tannins or precipitating white pig-ment in the surface of the leather.bleedingthe transfer of materials exuded from leather toother materials that come in contact with it.blockingthe adhesion between touching layers of leathersuch as occur

22、s under moderate pressures during storage oruse.blooma light-colored deposit of ellagic acid appearing onthe grain surface of leather tanned with certain pyrogallotannins, such as myrabolans, valonia, and dividivi. Theappearance may be objectionable for some purposes, butbloom does not significantly

23、 affect the other physical prop-erties of the leather.blueusually in the phrase “in the blue,” applied to hides orskins that have been chrome-tanned but not dyed norfat-liquored. Also referred to as blue stock.blushingdulling or mottling of the finish of the leatherresulting from condensed moisture

24、during the drying of thefinish. Also referred to as lacquer bloom.boarded leatherleather on which a false or accentuatedgrain has been produced by folding the grain side andworking the leather back and forth. Hand boarding is donewith a curved cork board attached to the workers arm androlled over th

25、e folded skin.boardyadjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather.box calf or sidessides or skins finished by folding with thegrain side in and rubbing the flesh side with a cork-surfacedinstrument known as a hand board. Machinery is now alsoused. The effect is sometimes imitated by embossing. Also

26、called “box” or “willow” finish.break(1) heavy leatherthe places, in the areas where thefore shank and hind shank join the body of the hide, wherethe texture of the leather changes quite sharply from the firm,close weave of the bend to a loose, open texture.(2) shoe upper leatherthe superficial wrin

27、kling formedwhen the leather is bent, grain inward. Adjectives commonlyused to describe this characteristic are “tight,” “fine,” “loose,”“coarse,” and “pipy,” or “flanky.”bridle leathera harness-finished strap leather.brininga process of curing hides by soaking with saltsolution (sodium chloride).br

28、onzingexcessive concentration of crystallized dyestuff onthe surface of the leather tending to give a metallic sheen.brush coloringthe application of dye-stuff to leather with abrush or swab, the leather being laid on a table. Also calledtable dyeing.buck sidescattlehide shoe upper leather finished

29、to resemblebuckskin.buckskinleather from deer and elk skins, used for shoes,gloves, and clothing. Only the outer cut of the skin fromwhich the surface grain has been removed may be correctlydefined as “genuine buckskin.” Leather finished from thesplit or under-cut of deerskin must be described as “s

30、plitbuckskin.”buffalo leatherleather made from the hides of domesticatedwater buffalo of the Far East, not the American bison.buffingthe mechanical operation of removing a superficialportion of the grain of flesh surface with sand paper or knifein order to produce a velvet surface or to minimize nat

31、uralsurface defects on the grain or flesh.buffing dustthe fine particulate leather fiber that is sandedoff during buffing.buffing paperrolls or continuous paper coated with speciallygraded and treated abrasive particulates that is used to buffleather on a belt sanding machine.bullhideshides from bul

32、ls are characterized by thick andrough head, neck and shoulders, and coarse flanks. They areoften poor in quality and heavy, ranging from 60 lb (27 kg)up.burnishingsimilar to buffing but using polishing paper/cloths with no or very fine abrasives that produces a verysmooth polished appearance on the

33、 leather surface.butcher cutsdamage to hides caused by improper removalfrom the animal, usually in the form of cuts or furrows on theflesh side.FIG. 1 Hide, Showing Various CutsD1517 102buttthat part of the hide or skin covering the rump or hindpart of the animal.cabrettaskin of hair sheep, original

34、ly Brazilian, used prin-cipally for glove and garment leathers. (See also cape.)calf leatherleather made from the skins of young cattle froma few days up to a few months old, the skins weighing up to25 lb (11.3 kg). It is finer grained, lighter in mass and moresupple than cowhide, or kip leathers.ca

35、pe, skin or leatherskin of South African hair sheep.Fine-grained leather, superior to wool sheep for gloves andgarments. Loosely applied to all hair sheep, but should bequalified to show origin, if other than South African.carding leathera type of tannage of side leather used on thecards of textile

36、machinery.carpincho leatherleather from the skin of the carpincho, alarge South American rodent. The skin is used in makingglove leather, usually chrome-tanned and washable. In theglove-leather trade, it is classified as a pigskin. It resemblespigskin in appearance, a characteristic being the occurr

37、enceof bristle holes in straight-line groups, usually five holes ina group.case leathersee bag leather.chamois leathera soft, pliable absorbent leather which isrecognized in this country and abroad as being made fromthe inner side of a sheepskin, known technically as flesher,from which the outer or

38、grain side has been split prior totanning.chestnut extracta vegetable tanning agent extracted fromthe wood of the chestnut tree and used in tanning/re-tanningheavy leathers.chrome retannagethe process of applying trivalent chro-mium salts as a secondary adjunct to the main tannage toimpart or enhanc

39、e certain leather properties; usually appliedafter splitting and shaving.chrome tannageconversion of raw hides/skin into leatherwith chromium compounds, thereby substantially increasingstrength properties and resistance to various biological andphysical agents.chrome tanning liquorliquid basic chrom

40、e sulfate, withchrome concentration typically in the range of 10-17.5 %expressed as chromic oxide, and a basicity typically in therange of 25-45 %.coarse rough fiberfibers of flesh surfaces of leather or splitswhich are frayed, separated, and present a shaggy appear-ance.cocklehard, firm nodules app

41、earing on the necks and belliesof sheepskins.collagenthe principal fibrous protein in the corium or dermalayer of a hide or skin.collar leathera subdivision of harness leather, made fromvery light cattlehides in full thickness, or of cattlehide splits,and used for covering horse collars.Colorado ste

42、era side-branded steerhide, not necessarilyfrom Cber leathera steerhide leather, heavily stuffed andusually boarded, used in textile combing bination tannedformerly, tanned with a blend of veg-etable extracts. Today, tanned with two or more types oftanning materials, such as chromium compounds and v

43、eg-etable extracts, or chromium compounds and synthetictannins.cordovanleather made from the tight, firm portion of horsebutts. It has very fine pores and characteristic waxy finish,and is very durable.corduroy flesha rough condition of the flesh side of leathercaused by failure to remove the twitch

44、ing muscles.corrected grainportions of the grain surface lightly abradedwith emery wheel or sandpaper, so as to lessen the effect ofgrain damage.country hideshides taken off by butchers and farmers; theirquality is usually lower than that of packer hides becausethey are removed by less skilled hands

45、 and are not cured aswell as packer hides.cowhideterm specifically applied to leather made from hidesof cows, although it is sometimes loosely used to designateany leather tanned from hides of animals of the bovinespecies.crockingthe transfer of finish or color when leather isrubbed with a wet or dr

46、y cloth.cropa side with the belly trimmed off. (OO8P8PinFig. 1.)crouponuntanned, whole cattlehide with the belly andshoulder cut off. Comparable to a butt bend in tanned leather.crushed leatherleather made from chrome-vegetable ret-anned kidskins with the grain accentuated by boarding orother proces

47、s.crustused as an adjective or in the phrase “in the crust,”refers to leather than has been tanned but not finished (seealso rough).curingtreating raw hides or skins so as to minimize putre-faction and bacterial action, but to enable the skins to be wetback conveniently in preparation for tanning (s

48、ee brining,dry pickling, dry salting, green salting, and pickle).curling temperaturethe temperature at which noticeablecurling occurs on gradually heating a leather specimen inwater.curryinga process of treating tanned hides with oils andgreases to prepare them for belting, sole, harness leathers,et

49、c.cut stocka term generally applied to bottom stock for shoes,such as soles, taps, lifts, blocks, and strips cut from soleleather. Also applies to cut-to-pattern leather.deep buffthe first cut or split underneath the top grain ormachine buff on which no traces of the grain remain.deerskina deerskin tanned and finished with the grainsurface intact.degrained leatherleather from which the grain has beenremoved after tanning, by splitting, abrading, or otherprocess.degras, moe