ASTM D1517-2015 Standard Terminology Relating to Leather《皮革相关标准术语》.pdf

1、Designation: D1517 10D1517 15Standard Terminology Relating toLeather1,2This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1517; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses in

2、dicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.INTRODUCTIONThese definitions are divided into two groups: the first group covers general terms, and the secondgroup covers definitions applicable to sampling.The definiti

3、ons of general terms include some of those encountered by personnel concerned withspecifications and procurement of hides, leather and leather products by the Federal Government.The definitions applicable to sampling are mainly to be used in connection with the sampling for,and testing of, physical

4、and chemical properties.Terms adequately defined by unabridged dictionaries are not generally included.GENERAL TERMSalligatora general term used for leather made from the skins of all aquatic species with a grain similar to the american alligatorwhich cannot be killed legally and, therefore, is not

5、used by the United States industry.alligator-grained leatherleather of various types, such as calf, sheep or cattlehide embossed to resemble the grain of alligatorhide.alum leatherleather produced by alum tannage, usually in combination with other substances. Before the invention ofchrome-tanning th

6、is was the principal method of tanning with mineral agents.aniline dyed leatherleather which has been colored by transparent dyes as distinguished from leather treated by pigments orother opaque material.aniline finisha clear finish with little or no pigmentation.antelope finish suedeapplied to lamb

7、skin, goatskin, or calfskin, sueded and finished to resemble antelope.antelope leathera fine, soft leather made from an antelope skin, velvety in texture and sheen, sueded on the flesh side. Thisleather is so rare, that for practical purposes, it is virtually nonexistent.apron leathersany one of sev

8、eral varieties of leather used in connection with textile machinery and blacksmith aprons. Comberand Gill Box apron leather is soft, mellow, tough leather, tanned from steerhides, heavily stuffed and boarded or otherwisesoftened. Rub Roll apron leather is a flexible but firm, dry, strong leather.asp

9、ergillus nigerone of the most common mold growths found on vegetable tanning vats and on leather, usually greenish orblackish in color.automobile leathersee upholstery leather.backa crop with the head trimmed off behind the horn holes. (OZUP in Fig. 1.)bactericidea chemical that kills bacteria.1 Thi

10、s terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D31 on Leather and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D31.91 on Terminology.Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2010Dec. 1, 2015. Published October 2010January 2016. Originally approved in 1957. Last previous edition approved in 200620

11、10 asD1517 06.D1517 10. DOI: 10.1520/D1517-10.10.1520/D1517-15.2 These definitions have been developed in cooperation with the American Leather Chemists Assn. (Definitions of Terms X1-1961).This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indicati

12、on of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be consi

13、dered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1bag leathera general term for leathers used in traveling bags and suitcases. It does not include the light leathers employed forwomens fancy handbags. The sta

14、ple material for bag and case leather at present is leather made from the hides of animals ofthe bovine species, but heavy sealskins and goatskins are also used.bark tannageleather tanned by use of vegetable tannins found in barks, wood, and other plant derivatives, as distinguished frommineral tann

15、ages.barkometera hydrometer used for determining the specific gravity of tanning solutions.Aspecific gravity of 1.000 is equivalentof 0 deg barkometer (Bk), and each additional degree Bk is equivalent to an increase of 0.001 in specific gravity.baseball leatherleather used for covers of baseballs. T

16、he better grades of balls have covers of alum-tanned horsehide frontleather. Some cheaper grades are made of kip and sheepskins.basiluncolored vegetable-tanned sheepskin and lambskin.bateto treat unhaired hides or skins with a warm aqueous solution of an enzyme in order to remove certain undesirable

17、nitrogenous constituents.beama convex wooden slab sloping downward from about waist height over which a hide is placed for trimming off excess fleshand ragged edges and scudding by hand.belting butta double back with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RUTS in Fig. 1.)belting butt benda double bend

18、with the tail cut off at the butt line. (RRSS in Fig. 1.)bellythat part of the hide below the belly line. (VWPPin Fig. 1.) For steerhide leather, the belly line (RU) passes through a pointat or above the top of the rear break. For cowhide leather, the belly line passes through a point at or above th

19、e top of the frontbreak and a point not more than 212 in. (64 mm) below the top of the rear break.benda back with the shoulder cut off at right angles to the backbone line at the break of the fore flank. (OYRP in Fig. 1.)biffto beat a salted hide that has been placed on a rack, in order to shake loo

20、se salt from the hair.biocidea chemical that destroys microorganisms (for example, bacteria, fungi) that can be detrimental to hides, wet blue, wetwhite, and leather.bisonleather made from hides of the American Bison, commonly referred to as the North American Buffalo, and not from thedomesticated A

21、sian or Eastern Water Buffalo.bisulfitingthe treatment of hot solutions of vegetable tanning extracts with sodium bisulfite in order to increase their solubilityand rate of take-up by hides.bleaching(1) the process of removing oxidized tannins and insoluble materials from the surface layers of leath

22、er, in order toprevent crackiness of the grain. It is performed by dipping the leather in a weak alkaline solution to render the tannin readilysoluble, dipping in water, neutralizing in weak acid solution and washing.(1) the process of removing oxidized tannins and insoluble materials from the surfa

23、ce layers of leather, in order to preventcrackiness of the grain. It is performed by dipping the leather in a weak alkaline solution to render the tannin readily soluble,dipping in water, neutralizing in weak acid solution and washing.(2) the process of lightening the color of chrome leather by trea

24、ting with synthetic tannins or precipitating white pigment inthe surface of the leather.(2) the process of lightening the color of chrome leather by treating with synthetic tannins or precipitating white pigment inthe surface of the leather.bleedingthe transfer of materials exuded from leather to ot

25、her materials that come in contact with it.FIG. 1 Hide, Showing Various CutsD1517 152blockingthe adhesion between touching layers of leather such as occurs under moderate pressures during storage or use.blooma light-colored deposit of ellagic acid appearing on the grain surface of leather tanned wit

26、h certain pyrogallo tannins, suchas myrabolans, valonia, and dividivi. The appearance may be objectionable for some purposes, but bloom does not significantlyaffect the other physical properties of the leather.blueusually in the phrase “in the blue,” applied to hides or skins that have been chrome-t

27、anned but not dyed nor fat-liquored.Also referred to as blue stock.blushingdulling or mottling of the finish of the leather resulting from condensed moisture during the drying of the finish. Alsoreferred to as lacquer bloom.boarded leatherleather on which a false or accentuated grain has been produc

28、ed by folding the grain side and working theleather back and forth. Hand boarding is done with a curved cork board attached to the workers arm and rolled over the foldedskin.boardyadjective applied to stiff, inflexible leather.boil testtesting a piece of Wet Blue to check if there is area shrinkage

29、after the specimen is submersed in boiling water for 3min. This is an indication of the degree of tannage.box calf or sidessides or skins finished by folding with the grain side in and rubbing the flesh side with a cork-surfacedinstrument known as a hand board. Machinery is now also used. The effect

30、 is sometimes imitated by embossing. Also called“box” or “willow” finish.break(1) heavy leatherthe places, in the areas where the fore shank and hind shank join the body of the hide, where the textureof the leather changes quite sharply from the firm, close weave of the bend to a loose, open texture

31、.(1) heavy leatherthe places, in the areas where the fore shank and hind shank join the body of the hide, where the textureof the leather changes quite sharply from the firm, close weave of the bend to a loose, open texture.(2) shoe upper leatherthe superficial wrinkling formed when the leather is b

32、ent, grain inward. Adjectives commonly usedto describe this characteristic are “tight,” “fine,” “loose,” “coarse,” and “pipy,” or “flanky.”(2) shoe upper leatherthe superficial wrinkling formed when the leather is bent, grain inward. Adjectives commonly usedto describe this characteristic are “tight

33、,” “fine,” “loose,” “coarse,” and “pipy,” or “flanky.”bridle leathera harness-finished strap leather.brininga process of curing hides by soaking with salt solution (sodium chloride).bronzingexcessive concentration of crystallized dyestuff on the surface of the leather tending to give a metallic shee

34、n.brush coloringthe application of dye-stuff to leather with a brush or swab, the leather being laid on a table. Also called tabledyeing.buck sidescattlehide shoe upper leather finished to resemble buckskin.buckskinleather from deer and elk skins, used for shoes, gloves, and clothing. Only the outer

35、 cut of the skin from which thesurface grain has been removed may be correctly defined as “genuine buckskin.” Leather finished from the split or under-cutof deerskin must be described as “split buckskin.”buffalo leatherleather made from the hides of domesticated water buffalo of the Far East, not th

36、e American bison.buffingthe mechanical operation of removing a superficial portion of the grain of flesh surface with sand paper or knife in orderto produce a velvet surface or to minimize natural surface defects on the grain or flesh.buffing dustthe fine particulate leather fiber that is sanded off

37、 during buffing.buffing paperrolls or continuous paper coated with specially graded and treated abrasive particulates that is used to buff leatheron a belt sanding machine.bullhideshides from bulls are characterized by thick and rough head, neck and shoulders, and coarse flanks. They are often poori

38、n quality and heavy, ranging from 60 lb (27 kg) up.burnishingsimilar to buffing but using polishing paper/cloths with no or very fine abrasives that produces a very smoothpolished appearance on the leather surface.butcher cutsdamage to hides caused by improper removal from the animal, usually in the

39、 form of cuts or furrows on the fleshside.buttthat part of the hide or skin covering the rump or hind part of the animal.D1517 153cabrettaskin of hair sheep, originally Brazilian, used principally for glove and garment leathers. (See also cape.)calf leatherleather made from the skins of young cattle

40、 from a few days up to a few months old, the skins weighing up to 25lb (11.3 kg). It is finer grained, lighter in mass and more supple than cowhide, or kip leathers.cape, skin or leatherskin of South African hair sheep. Fine-grained leather, superior to wool sheep for gloves and garments.Loosely app

41、lied to all hair sheep, but should be qualified to show origin, if other than South African.carding leathera type of tannage of side leather used on the cards of textile machinery.carpincho leatherleather from the skin of the carpincho, a large South American rodent. The skin is used in making glove

42、leather, usually chrome-tanned and washable. In the glove-leather trade, it is classified as a pigskin. It resembles pigskin inappearance, a characteristic being the occurrence of bristle holes in straight-line groups, usually five holes in a group.case leathersee bag leather.chamois leathera soft,

43、pliable absorbent leather which is recognized in this country and abroad as being made from the innerside of a sheepskin, known technically as flesher, from which the outer or grain side has been split prior to tanning.chestnut extracta vegetable tanning agent extracted from the wood of the chestnut

44、 tree and used in tanning/re-tanning heavyleathers.chrome retannagethe process of applying trivalent chromium salts as a secondary adjunct to the main tannage to impart orenhance certain leather properties; usually applied after splitting and shaving.chrome tannageconversion of raw hides/skin into l

45、eather with chromium compounds, thereby substantially increasing strengthproperties and resistance to various biological and physical agents.chrome tanning liquorliquid basic chrome sulfate, with chrome concentration typically in the range of 10-17.5 % expressedas chromic oxide, and a basicity typic

46、ally in the range of 25-45 %.coarse rough fiberfibers of flesh surfaces of leather or splits which are frayed, separated, and present a shaggy appearance.cocklehard, firm nodules appearing on the necks and bellies of sheepskins.collagenthe principal fibrous protein in the corium or derma layer of a

47、hide or skin.collar leathera subdivision of harness leather, made from very light cattlehides in full thickness, or of cattlehide splits, and usedfor covering horse collars.Colorado steera side-branded steerhide, not necessarily from Cber leathera steerhide leather, heavily stuffed and usually board

48、ed, used in textile combing bination tannedformerly, tanned with a blend of vegetable extracts. Today, tanned with two or more types of tanningmaterials, such as chromium compounds and vegetable extracts, or chromium compounds and synthetic tannins.cordovanleather made from the tight, firm portion o

49、f horse butts. It has very fine pores and characteristic waxy finish, and isvery durable.corduroy flesha rough condition of the flesh side of leather caused by failure to remove the twitching muscles.corrected grainportions of the grain surface lightly abraded with emery wheel or sandpaper, so as to lessen the effect of graindamage.country hideshides taken off by butchers and farmers; their quality is usually lower than that of packer hides because they areremoved by less