1、Designation:D168307 Designation: D1683/D1683M 11Standard Test Method forFailure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates theyear of original adoption or, in the case of revision
2、, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of lastreapproval. A superscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.1. Scope1.1 This test method measur
3、es the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.NOTE 1The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewnseam strength.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn
4、seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samplesusing either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or production seam assemblies.1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewnseam streng
5、th, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.NOTE 2This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics.Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any co
6、mbination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabric, orsewing thread, or seam slippage.1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.1.4The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard
7、. The valuesexpressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore each system must be used independently of the other, withoutcombining values in any way.1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in eachsystem
8、 may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from thetwo systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the re
9、sponsibilityof the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for TextilesD123 Terminology Relating to Texti
10、lesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing TextilesD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in Inflatable Restraint CushionsD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 needle
11、damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passingthrough a fabric during sewing.3.1.2 seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from thatedge.3.1.3 seam assembly, nthe compos
12、ite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies .Current edition approved JulyFeb. 1, 2007.2011. Published August 2007.March 2011
13、. Originally approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 asD168304. Last previous edition approved in 20042007 as D168304.D168307. DOI: 10.1520/D1683-07.10.1520/D1683_D1683M-11.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at
14、 serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.1This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous ver
15、sion. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM Internatio
16、nal, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.3.1 DiscussionA seam assembly may be described in terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch type,seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s) stitch density, stitch gage, and
17、rows of stitching.3.1.4 seam effciency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, expressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to rupture a sewnseam to that required to rupture the fabric.3.1.5 seam engineering, nin sewn fabrics, the procedures used to select a specific combination of sewing thread,
18、 stitch type,seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.3.1.6 seam failure, n in sewn fabrics, that point at which an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures thefabric, (3) causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the st
19、itches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable conditions.3.1.6.1 DiscussionDespite the lack of rupture, excessive seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency, or,result in an unsightly appearance thus creating seam failure.3.1.7 seam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, a mod
20、e of failure in production seams.3.1.7.1 DiscussionShown as a transverse ratio of junction strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elongation of fabricto the ratio of elongation at the junction. Seam slippage, occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away from theTABLE 1
21、Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationAFabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Mass up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam allowance 13 mm (0.5 in.) 16 mm (0.625 in.)Seam allowance 13 mm 0.5
22、in. 16 mm 0.625 in.Needle:Size Metric 90 (0.036 in.) Metric 110 (0.044 in.)Size Metric 90 0.036 in. Metric 110 0.044 in.Finish chrome chromePoint thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 35 Tex 70Polyester-core Tex 40 Tex 60Seam Type Ssa-1 Ssa-1Stitch Type 301
23、 301Stitch Density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches per inch)12 612 stitches per inch 8 612 stitches per inchFabric: Medium Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine to Medium Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/y
24、d2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Mass up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam Allowance 25 mm (1 in.) 25 mm (1 in.)Seam Allowance 25 mm 1 in. 25 mm 1 in.Needle:Size Metric 110 (0.044 in.) Metric 140 (0.054 in.)Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No
25、. 43/No. 44) medium ball (No. 43/No. 44)Sewing Thread:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSn-2 SSn-2Stitch type 301 301Stitch density 4.7 612 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches per inch)12 612 stitches per inch 8
26、612 stitches per inchFabric: Low Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Medium to Heavy Count YarnsMass up to 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2) over 270 g/m2(8 oz/yd2)Mass up to 270 g/m28 oz/yd2 over 270 g/m28 oz/yd2Seam allowance 40 mm (1.5 in.) 40 mm (1.5 in.)Seam allowance 40 mm 1.5 in. 40 mm 1.5 in
27、.Needle:Size Metric 110 (0.044 in.) Metric 140 (0.054 in.)Size Metric 110 0.044 in. Metric 140 0.054 in.Finish chrome chromePoint medium ball (No. 44) heavy ball (No. 45)Sewing thread size:Cotton Tex 70 Tex 105Polyester-core Tex 60 Tex 90Seam type SSd-2 SSd-2Stitch type 401 401Stitch density 4.7 612
28、 stitches per centimetre 3.1 612 stitches per centimetre(12 612 stitches per inch) (8 612 stitches per inch)12 612 stitches per inch 8 612 stitches per inchAA complete description of seam types and stitch types can be found in Practice D6193.D1683/D1683M 112seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fab
29、ric pulling out from the stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening.Any movementof the warp and weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses, which exacerbate the potential damage. (See yarnslippage.)3.1.8 seam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designation relating to
30、the essential characteristics of fabric positioningand rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.3.1.8.1 DiscussionThe first two letters of the designation show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify a particularmating alignment; the number designation indicates the number of ro
31、ws of stitches.3.1.9 sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are joined bysewing, usually near the edge.3.1.10 sewn seam strength, nin sewn fabrics, the maximum resistance to rupture of the junction formed by stitching togethertwo or mo
32、re planar structures.3.1.11 slippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to causedifferences in alignment, spacing or both.3.1.12 standard seam, na seam assembly which uses a specific seam type for a designated fabric having specific we
33、ight,density and construction, as shown in Table 1.3.1.13 stitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams.3.1.14 stitch density, nin sewn fabrics, the number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching.3.1.15 stitch gage, n in sewn fabrics,
34、 the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.3.1.16 stitch type, na numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of sewing thread(s) ina specified stitch.3.1.16.1 DiscussionStitch types are described in Practice D6193.3.1.17 yarn slipp
35、age, na mode of failure of fabrics when sewn using a standard seam.3.1.17.1 DiscussionThe displacement of one or more fabric yarns from the original position(s) so as to cause differences inalignment and spacing of both yarns.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test method, refer
36、 to Terminology D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 This test method can also be used to measure seam slippage by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabricwith a seam in it.4.2 The applied force is longitudinal and perpendicular to the seam.4.2.1 A force is applied until seam fa
37、ilure occurs.5. Significance and Use5.1 This test method can also be used to determine either the sewn seam strength of textiles or the efficiency of a seam assemblywith any given fabric. Additionally, the seam strengths of different fabrics can be compared directly by using one of the standardseam
38、assemblies specified in Table 1. Because current information about laboratory precision is incomplete, comparative tests maybe advisable.5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using this test method for acceptance testing ofcommercial shipments, the purchaser
39、 and the supplier should perform comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical biasbetween their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the twoparties should take a group of test specimens from the same lot of fabric to b
40、e evaluated, which utilize a like seam assembly (orstandard seam assembly). The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing.If a bias is found, either its cause must be determined and corrected, or the purchaser and supplier must agree to interpret
41、 futuretest results in light of the known bias.5.2 This test method determines the seam efficiency of a specified seam assembly with each fabric. Because seam efficiencyvaries with each fabric, one of the standard seam assemblies, as noted in Table 1, should be used when comparing the seam strengtho
42、f different fabrics. Table 1 lists the default seam assembly specifications to be used for fabrics made with fine, medium and heavycount yarns. If a determination cannot be made as to which seam is the best suited for a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.5.3 Seams prepared for this test meth
43、od should be made by competent factory sewing operators familiar with the potential fordamage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching is improperly done. (See Note 2.)NOTE 3If competent factory sewing operators are not accessible, a laboratory technician familiar with the potential for dama
44、ge of an improperly sewnseam may prepare the seamed test specimens. It is imperative for purchaser/supplier to understand the impact an improperly sewn seam will have on testresults.)5.4 This test method is applicable whenever a determination of effective sewn seam strength, that is, the optimum sea
45、minteraction, is required. The breaking force of the seam and fabric will permit determination of seam efficiency. This test methodcan aid in determining optimum seam interaction for any given fabric by comparing the properties of the fabric with and withoutseams.5.5 Seam engineering techniques for
46、specific fabric types can also be determined by utilizing this test method.5.6 This test method can be used to determine when the sewn seam is affected by seam slippage. While the ultimate consequenceD1683/D1683M 113of this phenomenon is rupture, seam slippage greater than either the values stated i
47、n customer specifications, or as agreed uponby purchaser/supplier may severely reduce the integrity such that the product cannot be used for its intended purpose. (An exampleof a commonly used seam slippage value is 6 6 1 mm 0.25 6 0.04 in.).6. Apparatus6.1 Tensile Testing Machine, as used in Test M
48、ethod D5034 conforming to Specification D76, and preferably a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type of machine capable of jaw separation rate of 305 6 10 mm/min (12.012.0 6 0.5 in./min)in./min andan adequate pen or interfaced computer response to record the force-extension curve. When a CRE type of
49、machine is not used,a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) type of machine. (See Note 4.)NOTE 4In cases of dispute a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type machine should be used to referee testing. Because of the biases between testresults for these types of tensile testing machine, report the name, type and date of calibration of the machine used.)6.1.1 At least one clamp should be supported by a free swivel or universal joint to allow the clamp to rotate in the plane of thefabric.6.1.2
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