1、Designation:D313587(Reapproved 2005) Designation: D3135 12Standard Specification forPerformance of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated ApparelFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3135; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the
2、 case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers requirements for performance properties of bonded, fused, and
3、 laminated apparel fabrics.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel FabricsD3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble PillingTesterD702
4、2 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Standards:AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 (1954), Gray Scale for Color Change3AATCC Test Method 124, Appearance of Durable-Press Fabrics After Repeated Home Launderings33. Terminology3.1blister, nin bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics, a bulge, swelling, or si
5、milar surface condition on either the face fabric orthe backing fabric characterized by the fabric being raised from the plane of the underlying component over a limited area to givea puffy appearance.3.2bonded fabric, na layered fabric structure wherein a face or shell fabric is joined to a backing
6、 fabric, such as tricot, withan adhesive that does not significantly add to the thickness of the combined fabrics.3.2.1DiscussionIn this context, a thin layer of foam is considered an adhesive when the cell structure is completely collapsedby a flame.3.3bond strength, n of bonded, fused, or laminate
7、d fabrics, the tensile force expressed in ounces per 1 in. (25 mm) of width,required to separate the component layers under specified conditions.3.4bubblesee preferred term blister3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology D7022.3.5closed-face fabric, na face or shell fabric of clos
8、ed construction so that no open-face areas appear.3.6crack mark, nCrack marks are usually the result of combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does not havesufficient residual stretch to allow the combined fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on the concave
9、sideof the arc. Crack marks also occur when bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled state before full adhesivecure has taken place. Other causes include the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive foam thicknesses and excessivefoam collapse in flame lamination.sharp
10、break or crease in the surface contour of either the face fabric or the backing fabric thatbecomes evident when the bonded or laminated composite is rolled, bent, draped, or folded.3.6.1DiscussionCrack marks are usually the result of combining tight fabric constructions at least one of which does no
11、t havesufficient residual stretch to allow the combined fabrics to be bent in an arc without producing crack marks on the concave sideof the arc. Crack marks also occur when bonded fabrics are allowed to remain in a creased or wrinkled state before full adhesivecure has taken place. Other causes inc
12、lude the use of excessive adhesive in bonding, or excessive foam thicknesses and excessivefoam collapse in flame lamination.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel .Current edition approved Sep
13、t.Feb. 1, 2005.2012. Published December 2005.February 2012. Originally approved in 1972. Last previous edition approved in 20002005as D3135 87(20005) DOI: 10.1520/D3135-87R05.10.1520/D3135-12.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at se
14、rviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3Technical Manual of the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, available from the AATCC, P. O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.1This docu
15、ment is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as
16、appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.7foam tear, na condition wherein the foam portion of a
17、laminated fabric ruptures prior to the failure of the bond.3.8fused fabric, na type of bonded fabric made by adhering a fusible fabric to another fabric, such as for use as an interlining.3.9fusible fabric, na utilitarian fabric which has a thermoplastic adhesive applied to one side, usually in a pa
18、ttern of dots, sothat the surface can be bonded to another fabric surface by the use of heat and pressure.3.10interlining, nany textile which is intended for incorporation into an article of wearing apparel as a layer between an outershell and an inner lining.3.11laminated fabric, na layered fabric
19、structure wherein a face or outer fabric is joined to a continuous sheet material, suchas a polyurethane foam, in such a way that the identity of the continuous sheet material is retained, either by the flame methodor by an adhesive, and this in turn normally but not always, is joined on the back wi
20、th a backing fabric such as tricot.3.12open-face fabric, na face or shell fabric constructed with specifically designed open areas to show the substrate whenjoined to another material.3.13puckering, nin bonded, fused, or laminated fabric, a wavy, three-dimensional effect typified by closely spaced w
21、rinkles,on either the face fabric or the backing fabric or both.3.13.1DiscussionPuckering may be due to: (1) differential shrinkage of the component layers, (2) differences in tension whenthe component layers are combined, or ( 3) selective lineal delamination.3.14For definitions of other textile te
22、rms used in this specification, refer to Terminology3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: blister, bonded fabric, bond strength, buble, closed face fabric, crack mark,foam tear, fused fabric, fusible fabric, interlining, laminated fabric, open face fabric, puckering.3.3 For definiti
23、ons of all other textile terms, refer to Terminology D123.4. Delamination4.1 After DrycleaningWhen the front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without tensioningor stretching and viewed separately as directed in Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124,
24、 there shall be novisible evidence of separation of the component layers after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, without steampressing.4.2 After LaunderingWhen the front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabric are mounted without tensioningor stretching and viewed s
25、eparately as directed in Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCC Method 124, there shall be novisible evidence of separation of the component layers after five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying.5. Shrinkage (or Growth)5.1 After Drycleaning:5.1.1 The average shrinkage of four test sp
26、ecimens after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by onesteam pressing, shall be used to assign the observed fabric shrinkage to Class I, Class II, or Class III, which have the followingshrinkage limits:Average Fabric ShrinkageLimits,%Class Length WidthI 3.0 or less 3.0 or
27、lessII 3.1to6.0 3.1to6.0III 6.1 or more 6.1 or more5.1.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowable limits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limitsfor length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to the drycleaning class in which the higher shrinkage occurs.5.
28、1.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in the length direction or 2.5 % in the width direction after three cycles ina coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by one steam pressing.5.1.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in drycleaning, for example, less than 3.0 % in length but at the same time gro
29、ws less than 2.5 % inwidth or vice versa, it shall be assigned to Class I.5.1.2.2 If the fabric grows in drycleaning more than 2.5 % in either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.5.2 After Laundering:5.2.1 The average shri
30、nkage of four test specimens after five cycles of laundering without hand ironing if the fabric is intendedfor use in a garment which does not require ironing or after hand ironing following the fifth laundering cycle only if the fabricis intended for use in a garment which requires ironing, shall b
31、e used to assign the observed fabric shrinkage to Class I, Class II,or Class III as listed in 5.1.1.5.2.1.1 If the shrinkage of a fabric falls within the allowable limits for width for a specific class but does not meet the limitsfor length or vice versa, the fabric shall be assigned to the launderi
32、ng shrinkage class in which the higher shrinkage occurs.5.2.2 Growth of the fabric shall not exceed 2.5 % in the length direction and 2.5 % in the width direction after five cycles oflaundering without hand ironing if the fabric is intended for use in a garment that does not require ironing or after
33、 hand ironingfollowing the fifth laundering cycle only if the fabric is intended for use in a garment that requires ironing.5.2.2.1 If a fabric shrinks in laundering, for example, less than 3.0 % in length but at the same time grows less than 2.5 % inD3135 122width or vice versa, it shall be assigne
34、d to Class I.5.2.2.2 If the fabric grows in laundering more than 2.5 % in either length or width, it shall be considered unacceptable,regardless of the shrinkage or growth in the other direction.NOTE 1Normally, the dimensional stability of a garment is better in laundering or drycleaning than the pr
35、incipal fabric from which it was made dueto the stabilizing effect of sewing and seaming and to the preshrinkage obtained in garment pressing.NOTE 2Class shrinkage limits are provided because fabrics intended for various end uses do not all require the same shrinkage control to performin a satisfact
36、ory manner after refurbishment.NOTE 3If the fabric is intended for over-the-counter sales for home sewing, the fabric should be accompanied by instructions to prestabilize the fabricby using one cycle of the appropriate refurbishment described in 9.1 or 9.2 before converting the fabric into a garmen
37、t.6. Appearance and Aesthetics6.1 After Drycleaning:6.1.1 Puckering, Crack Marks, Bubbles, or Blisters When the front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabricare mounted without tensioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in Sections 7.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCCMet
38、hod 124, there shall be no visible evidence of puckering, crack marks, bubbles, or blisters of the component layers after threecycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by one steam pressing.NOTE 4The acceptable change in stiffness shall be determined by agreement between the purchaser
39、 and the seller.6.1.2 Pilling Due to DrycleaningAfter three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by one steam pressing,the pilling rating of the fabric shall be at least 4 when rated as directed in Test Method D3512.6.1.3 Color ChangeAfter three cycles in a coin-operated drycleani
40、ng machine, followed by one steam pressing, the depth ofshade change from the original color of the face fabric, the backing fabric, and the foam, if present and visible, shall not be lessthan a rating of 4 to 5 when evaluated by AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change.NOTE 5Color
41、change should be reported only when fabrics of the same color and lot with or without a white dummy load are used in a washloador drycleaning load.6.2 After Laundering:6.2.1 Puckering, Crack Marks, Bubbles, or Blisters When the front and the back of the bonded, fused, or laminated fabricare mounted
42、without tensioning or stretching and viewed separately as directed in Sections 6.2 and 7.3 on Evaluation in AATCCMethod 124, there shall be no visible evidence of puckering, crack marks, bubbles, or blisters of the component layers after fivecycles of laundering and five cycles of drying (Note 4).6.
43、2.2 Pilling Due to Laundering and DryingAfter five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying, the pilling rating of thefabric shall be at least 4 when rated as directed in Test Method D3512.6.2.3 Color Change:6.2.3.1 Face FabricAfter five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying, the dept
44、h of shade change from the original colorof the face side of the fabric shall not be less than a rating of 3 to 4 when evaluated byAATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scalefor Color Change (Note 5).6.2.3.2 Backing FabricAfter five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying, the depth of shade cha
45、nge from the originalcolor of the backing fabric shall not be less than a rating of 3 when evaluated by AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale forColor Change (Note 5).6.2.4 WrinklesIf the fabric is designated as “durable press,” the unpressed fabric shall have a minimum smoothness rating of4 afte
46、r five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying without ironing when rated as directed in Section 6 on Evaluation andTable II in AATCC Method 124.7. Strength of Bond7.1 Types of FabricStrength of bond shall be specified only on closed face fabrics. Fabrics with open-face areas, such as lacesor
47、 open-face knitted fabrics designed specifically to show the substrate, may not have enough fabric area available for bonding togive a useful indication of bond durability.7.2 After DrycleaningAfter three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, the minimum wet (in perchlorethylene) bondstreng
48、th of the fabric shall be 1.5 ozf/in. (16 N/m) of width when tested as directed in Section 13.3 of Test Methods D2724.7.3 After LaunderingAfter five cycles of laundering and five cycles of drying, the minimum wet (in water) bond strength ofthe fabric shall be 1.5 ozf/in. (16 N/m) of width when teste
49、d as directed in Section 13.3 of Test Methods D2724.8. Test Method8.1 Test all specimens as directed in Test Methods D2724.9. General Requirements9.1 Drycleanable FabricsFor bonded, fused, or laminated fabrics designated as drycleanable only, determine conformance tothis specification after three cycles in a coin-operated drycleaning machine, followed by one steam pressing after the third cycleonly.D3135 123NOTE 6This specification requires the use of a coin-operated type of drycleaning machine, because available evidence shows that the action
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