1、Designation: D 3655 02Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Sliver Knitted Overcoat and JacketFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3655; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the y
2、ear of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and wom-ens sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics composed of
3、anytextile fiber or mixture of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following safety hazards caveat
4、pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification: Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the
5、applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic
6、Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of Traverse (CRT), Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Persp
7、iration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial Accelerated107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic
8、 Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AA
9、TCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act RegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The curr
10、ent editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 fabric, sliver-knitted, na single-jersey fabric inwhich untwisted staple fibers are knitted in at each loop to forma pile surface on the technical back of the jersey structure.3.2 For definitions of textile term
11、s used in this specification,refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC methods, Dictionaryof Common Terms, and Terminology D 123.4. Significance and Use4.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Tab
12、le 1 of this specification.4.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the di
13、rect responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Jan. 10, 2002. Published April 2002. Originallypublished as D 3655 78. Last previous edition D 3655 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.o
14、rg. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Pri
15、nting Office,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the s
16、eller.4.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3655except for the following characteristic(s).4.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requiremen
17、ts listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 4.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.4.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespeci
18、fied test methods.5. Specification Requirements5.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and womens sliverknitted overcoats and jackets shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.6. Sampling6.1 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take t
19、he number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.1.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-abili
20、ty level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory un
21、derconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 3787, using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting at
22、tachment,or Test Method D 3786, using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester, as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 2There is no overall relation between the results obtained withthe CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and the diaphragmbursting tester. Consequentl
23、y, these two bursting testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D 3787 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball bursting method using the CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of thediaphragm bursting method are being established by Su
24、bcommitteeD13.59. The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptancetesting unless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratoryof the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomizedreplicate specimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Lau
25、nderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the seller (Note 3).7.2.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.2 DrycleaningDetermi
26、ne the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so
27、 labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfas
28、tness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to
29、launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 3).TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness in the AATCC methods refer-enced in this table are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligibl
30、e or nocolor change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or colortransfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (Ball Burst)A70 lbf (311 N) min 7.1Dimensional Change:After 5 launderings 3 % max, ineach direction7.1After 3 drycleanings 2 % max, ineach direction7.2Colorfa
31、stness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change original fabric Class 4BminShade change after 1 launderingor 1 drycleaningClass 4Bmin 7.3.8Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Bmin 7.3.9Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4BminLaundering: 7.3.2Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Sha
32、de change Class 4BminCrocking: 7.3.4Dry Class 4DminWet Class 3DminWater: 7.3.5Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 4CminPerspiration (acid phase) 7.3.6Shade change Class 4BminStaining Class 3CminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon arc)AStep 4Bmin 7.3.7Flammability pass 7.4AMore than one method can be used
33、to measure these properties. Thesemethods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlationbetween them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 6).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D36550227.3.3 Colorfastness to Dryclea
34、ningDetermine the color-fastness to drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132(Note 3).7.3.4 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet crocking as directed in AATCC Method 8for solid shades and AATCC Method 116 for prints or asagreed upon between the purchaser and the sel
35、ler.7.3.5 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the colorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Method 107.7.3.6 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.7 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Met
36、hod 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xen
37、on Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach De-termine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.9 Colorfastness to Perspiration Determine the color-fastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCMeth
38、od 172.7.4 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations (see 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 jacket; overcoat; sliver knittedASTM International takes no position respe
39、cting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This st
40、andard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM Internat
41、ional Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown belo
42、w.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D3655023
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