ASTM D3782-2013e1 Standard Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Knitted Dress Suit Fabrics and Knitted Sportswear Jacket Slack and Trouser Fabrics《男人和男孩用针织大礼服织物和针织休闲夹克、家常裤和裤.pdf

1、Designation: D3782 131Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Suit Fabrics and KnittedSportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3782; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adop

2、tion or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTESection 3 was updated editorially in September 2013.1. Scope1.1 This performanc

3、e specification covers mens and boysknitted dress suit and knitted sportswear jacket, slack, andtrouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the l

4、ength and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and

5、 determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD231 Methods of Testing Tolerances for Knit Goods; Re-placed by D 3887 (Withdrawn 1980)3D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHavi

6、ng Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3

7、Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics Af

8、ter RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEv

9、aluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer-ence ScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods used in this specification gives onlythe permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited

10、 shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:dimensional change, pressing and finishing.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions

11、 of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition July 1, 2013 Published August 2013. Originally approved in1979. Last previous e

12、dition approved in 2008 as D3782 02(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D3782-13E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM w

13、ebsite.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box

14、C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States14. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress suits and sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Knitted fabrics shou

15、ld meet all of the requirements inTable 1 to be suitable for use in the manufacture of dress suitsand sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers for men and boys.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable

16、some fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. For example, the fabric could be dyedin shades that do not meet the requirement in Table 1 forcolorfastness to light, yet be acceptable to the ultimate con-sumer because the shade is fashionable. In such cases, one ormore of the

17、requirements may be modified by mutual agree-ment between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 If any of the requirements in Table 1 are modified bymutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, anyreference to the specification shall specify that “this fabricmeets ASTM Specification D3782 exc

18、ept for the followingcharacteristic(s).”5.3 The uses and significance of particular properties arediscussed in the appropriate sections of the specific methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshoul

19、d first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers instructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the te

20、stmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwou

21、ld be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength,

22、 inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed inMethod D231 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor an approved type of diaphragm bursting tester as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 2There is no overal

23、l correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail

24、.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interla

25、boratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish

26、 specimen(s) as agreed upon between the purchaserand the seller with respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement ha

27、s been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC

28、 Method 135 (Notes 4 and 5).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 (Notes 4 and 5).TABLE 1 Specification Requ

29、irementsNOTE 1Class in a, b, c, and DP is based on a numerical scale of 5 fornegligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements S

30、ectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.2After five launderings 3 % max 7.2.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4AminSha

31、de change after one launderingor one dry cleaningClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering: 7.3.2Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminDry cleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.3.4Wet Class 4CminDry Class 3CminP

32、erspiration (acid phase): 7.3.5Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)DP3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability pass 7.5AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durab

33、le-press fabrics only.D3782 13127.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D2594.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional

34、 finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressin

35、g and finishingdimensional change from the total dimensional change to obtain thatportion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change topressing and finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user.It is not additive to the dimensional change to laundering or dry cleanin

36、gof the fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.

37、2.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.1.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61 (Note 4).7.3.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dryclean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.

38、4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine co

39、lorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of contro

40、versy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine colorfast

41、ness to non-chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Method 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller, as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fab

42、rics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the D

43、P rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandator

44、y stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 pants; suitingASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and t

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47、dmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3782 1313