ASTM D3782-2014 Standard Performance Specification for Men&rsquo s and Boys&rsquo Knitted Dress Suit Fabrics and Knitted Sportswear Jacket Slack and Trouser Fabrics《男人和男孩用针织大礼服织物和针.pdf

1、Designation: D3782 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Suit Fabrics and KnittedSportswear Jacket, Slack, and Trouser Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3782; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adopt

2、ion or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers mens and boysknitted dress suit and

3、 knitted sportswear jacket, slack, andtrouser fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabri

4、c direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations pr

5、ior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD231 Methods of Testing Tolerances for Knit Goods; Re-placed by D 3887 (Withdrawn 1980)3D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted FabricsHaving Low PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Lami

6、natedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt

7、 Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleanin

8、g135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Pro

9、cedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer-ence ScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods used in this specification gives onlythe permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology relat

10、ed to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:dimensional change, pressing and finishing.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.1This perf

11、ormance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition Feb. 1, 2014 Published March 2014. Originally approved in1979. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D3782 131. DOI: 10.1520/D3782-14

12、.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is re

13、ferenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States14. Specificat

14、ion Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress suits and sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Knitted fabrics should meet all of the requirements inTable 1 to be suitable for use in

15、 the manufacture of dress suitsand sportswear jackets, slacks, and trousers for men and boys.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable some fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table

16、 1. For example, the fabric could be dyedin shades that do not meet the requirement in Table 1 forcolorfastness to light, yet be acceptable to the ultimate con-sumer because the shade is fashionable. In such cases, one ormore of the requirements may be modified by mutual agree-ment between the purch

17、aser and the seller.5.2.1 If any of the requirements in Table 1 are modified bymutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, anyreference to the specification shall specify that “this fabricmeets ASTM Specification D3782 except for the followingcharacteristic(s).”5.3 The uses and significan

18、ce of particular properties arediscussed in the appropriate sections of the specific methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshould first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers i

19、nstructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedure

20、s in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using

21、 a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed inMeth

22、od D231 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor an approved type of diaphragm bursting tester as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.NOTE 2There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equi

23、pped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machine

24、equipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the labor

25、atory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between the purchaserand the seller wit

26、h respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specim

27、en(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Notes 4 and 5).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying

28、procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724 (Notes 4 and 5).TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade in a, b, c, and SA is based on a numerical scal

29、e of 5 fornegligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimen

30、sional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.2After five launderings 3 % max 7.2.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabric Grade 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningGrade 4AminSodium

31、Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.3.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering:E7.3.2Shade change Grade 4AminStaining Grade 3BminDry cleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Grade 4AminCrocking:E7.3.4Wet Grade 4CminDry Grade 3CminPerspiration (acid phase):E7.3.5Shade change Grade 4AminStaining Gra

32、de 3BminLight (40 AATCC Fading Unit) (xenon-arc) Grade 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)SA3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability pass 7.5AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.ESee Note 7.D3782 1427.2.4 GrowthDe

33、termine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D2594.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber co

34、uld be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and finishingdimensional change from the tot

35、al dimensional change to obtain thatportion due to laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change topressing and finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user.It is not additive to the dimensional change to laundering or dry cleaningof the fabric as it will reach the consumer (

36、see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the sam

37、e as those used in 7.2.1.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61 (Note 4).NOTE 7It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combin

38、ation of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.3.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry

39、clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller (see Note 7).7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness t

40、o perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15 (see Note 7).7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between th

41、em. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC

42、Method 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Method 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed

43、uponbetween the purchaser and the seller, as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.

44、7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (SA) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the SA rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 SA rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the

45、 purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 pants; suitingASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expr

46、essly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revise

47、d, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may

48、attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United State

49、s. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3782 143