ASTM D3785-2002(2008) Standard Performance Specification for Woven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics《机织领带及围巾织物的标准性能规范》.pdf

1、Designation: D 3785 02 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forWoven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3785; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of l

2、ast revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile

3、 fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion,

4、 Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions

5、prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in WovenFabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFall

6、ing-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 1682 Methods of Test for Breaking Load and Elongationof Textile FabricsD 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Lami

7、natedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles32.2 AATCC Methods:48-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethod15-1976 Colorfastness to Perspiration16-1974 Colorfastness to Light23-1975 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61-1975 Colorfastness to Washing

8、, Domestic, and Launder-ing, Commercial: Accelerated96-1975 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116-1974 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-meter Method124-1975 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Re-peated Home Launderings132-1976 Colorfastn

9、ess to Drycleaning135-1973 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laun-dering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation

10、 Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScaleNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Termi

11、nology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 scarfin apparel, an oblong or square piece of clothworn for warmth or as a decorative item.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to Terminology D 123 and the Technical Manual of theAmerican Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists.44.

12、Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for woven neckties and scarfsshall conform to the specification requirements in Table 1.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel

13、.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 3785 02.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards v

14、olume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC

15、27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requiremen

16、ts listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in

17、 Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3785except for the following characteristic(s).5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetwee

18、n the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular proper

19、ties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirec

20、ted in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedure in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test resul

21、t is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-oper

22、ator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Strength (Load)Determine the dry breakingstrength, in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, asdirected in the grab test procedure of Test Methods D 1682,using a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machinewith the speed of th

23、e pulling jaw at 12 6 0.5 in. (305 6 13mm)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with

24、 the CRT machine. Conse-quently these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. Incase of controversy, the CRT method shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is bei

25、ng established andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2) in termsof ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tongue Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue tearstrength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, use of Test Method D 1424 is permitted withexisting requirements as g

26、iven in this specification. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these two teartesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn Distortion Dete

27、rmine the yarn distortion asdirected in Test Method D 1336.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified b

28、y the seller.7.5.2 Dry Cleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable unlessspecifically labeled “Do Not Dry Clean.” “Dry-cleanable” goods are to bedry-cl

29、eaned only.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness and DP requirements is based on anumerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orfabric wrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or fabricwrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaki

30、ng strength (load) (CRT) 20 lbf (89 N), min 7.1Yarn slippage14-in. (6.3-mm) separationat 15 lbf(67 N), min7.2Tongue tear strength 1.5 lbf (6.7 N), min 7.3Yarn distortion: 7.4Satins 0.10 in. (2.5 mm), minAll other 0.05 in. (1 mm), minDimensional change:After five launderings 3 % max 7.5.1After three

31、dry cleanings 2 % max 7.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.6.8Laundering: 7.6.2Shade change Class 4AminSta

32、ining Class 3BminDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade change Class 4AminCrocking: 7.6.4Dry Class 4CminWet Class 3CminPerspiration: 7.6.5Shade change Class 4AminStaining Class 3BminLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1)DP3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale f

33、or Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference ScaleDFor durable-press fabrics only.D 3785 02 (2008)27.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in A

34、ATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as sp

35、ecified by theseller (Note 5).7.6.3 Dry Cleaning Determine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thep

36、urchaser and the seller.7.6.5 Perspiration Determine colorfastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAAT

37、CC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the water-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach inHome Laundering De

38、termine colorfastness to sodium hy-pochlorite bleach as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in HomeLaundering Determine colorfastness to non-chlorine bleachas directed in AATCC Method 188.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Met

39、hod 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.5.1.1 forwashable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2 fordry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durabl

40、e-press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is l

41、aundered or dry-cleaned.7.8 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 necktieASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent righ

42、ts asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any

43、time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments wil

44、l receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by AST

45、M International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 3785 02 (2008)3