1、Designation: D3785 14Standard Performance Specification forWoven Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3785; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A numb
2、er in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftextile fibers.1.2 This per
3、formance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3.1 The values stated in inch-pound units are to beregarded as standard. The values given in paren
4、theses aremathematical conversions to SI units that are provided forinformation only and are not considered standard.1.4 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to thetest methods portion, Section 7, of this specification.Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,i
5、f any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test M
6、ethod for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven FabricsD1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD1682 Test Method for Breaking Load and Elongation o
7、fTextile Fabric (Withdrawn 1992)3D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of
8、Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated96 Dimensional Change
9、s in Commercial Laundering ofWoven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastnes
10、s to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transfer-ence ScaleNOTE 1Reference to test
11、 methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to thi
12、s standard:scarf.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1979. Last previous edition approved in 201
13、3 as D3785 131. DOI:10.1520/D3785-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved versi
14、on of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 194
15、28-2959. United States13.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for woven neckties and scarfsshall conform to the specificatio
16、n requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meet allof the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultima
17、te consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references
18、 to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3785except for the following characteristic(s).5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used
19、as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall
20、be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not speci
21、fy the number of specimens, use theprocedure in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applyi
22、ng this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Strength (Load)Determine the dry breakingstrength, in the standa
23、rd atmosphere for testing textiles, asdirected in the grab test procedure of Test Methods D1682,using a constant-rate-of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machinewith the speed of the pulling jaw at 12 6 0.5 in. (305 6 13mm)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile t
24、esting machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the seller. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine. Conse-quently these two breaking load testers cannot be used interchangeably. Incase of controversy, th
25、e CRT method shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2) in termsof ends and picks per inch.7.3
26、Tongue Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue tearstrength as directed in Test Method D2262.NOTE 4If preferred, use of Test Method D1424 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this specification. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachine and w
27、ith the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these two teartesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, TestMethod D2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn Distortion Determine the yarn distortion asdirected in Test Method D1336.7.5 Dimensional Change:TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade
28、 in colorfastness and SA requirements is based on anumerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orfabric wrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or fabricwrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT) 20 lbf (89 N), min 7.1Yarn slip
29、page14-in. (6.3-mm) separationat 15 lbf(67 N), min7.2Tongue tear strength 1.5 lbf (6.7 N), min 7.3Yarn distortion: 7.4Satins 0.10 in. (2.5 mm), minAll other 0.05 in. (1 mm), minDimensional change:After five launderings 3 % max 7.5.1After three dry cleanings 2 % max 7.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes
30、2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Grade 4AminShade change after one launderingor one dry cleaningGrade 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.6.7Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4Amin 7.6.8Laundering:E7.6.2Shade change Grade 4AminStaining Grade 3BminDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade chang
31、e Grade 4AminCrocking:E7.6.4Dry Grade 4CminWet Grade 3CminPerspiration:E7.6.5Shade change Grade 4AminStaining Grade 3BminLight (20 AATCC Fading Units) (xenon-arc)Grade 4Amin 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1)SA3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for
32、 Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference ScaleDFor durable-press fabrics only.ESee Note 7.D3785 1427.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure
33、 shall beas specified by the seller.7.5.2 Dry Cleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable unlessspecifically labeled “Do Not Dry Clean.” “Dry-cleanable”
34、 goods are to bedry-cleaned only.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1.Dry-cleaning co
35、nditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller (Note 5).NOTE 7It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained b
36、ystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for ac
37、ceptance testing of such fabrics.7.6.3 Dry Cleaning Determine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between t
38、hepurchaser and the seller (see Note 7).7.6.5 Perspiration Determine colorfastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Method 15 (see Note 7).7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various
39、 types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochl
40、orite Bleach inHome LaunderingDetermine colorfastness to sodium hy-pochlorite bleach as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome LaunderingDetermine colorfastness to non-chlorinebleach as directed in AATCC Method 188.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the f
41、abric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller as specified in 7.5.1.1 forwashable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2 fordry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For
42、 fabrics not intended for use in “durable-press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (SA) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the SA rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 SA rati
43、ng from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.8 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.8. Keywords8.1 necktiesASTM International takes no position r
44、especting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.Thi
45、s standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM Inte
46、rnational Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown
47、below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D3785 143
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