1、Designation: D3883 04 (Reapproved 2012)Standard Test Method forYarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in Woven Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3883; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last
2、 revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This test method covers the determination of the rela-tionship between the length of a piece of fabric and the lengthof th
3、e yarn in the fabric by measurement of the yarn crimp andyarn take-up.1.2 This test method applies to woven fabrics.1.3 The values stated in either SI or inch-pound units are tobe regarded separately as standard. Within the text, theinch-pound units are shown in parentheses. The values statedin each
4、 system are not exact equivalents; therefore, eachsystem shall be used independently of the other. Combiningvalues from the two systems may result in nonconformancewith the specification.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is t
5、heresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Text
6、ilesD2904 Practice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile TestMethod that Produces Normally Distributed Data3D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias forTextiles3D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and FibersD4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric TestMethods3. Terminology3.1 Fo
7、r definition of textile terms used in this test method:bench marks, refer to Terminology D4849.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this test method:yarn crimp and yarn take-up, refer to Terminology D4850.3.3 For definitions of other textile terms used in this testmethod, refer to Terminolog
8、y D123.4. Summary of Test Method4.1 Bench marks are placed on a length of a yarn as it liesin a woven fabric. The distance between the bench marks ismeasured. The yarn is removed from the fabric, straightened byapplying suitable tension, and the distance between the benchmarks is remeasured. Yarn cr
9、imp is the change in lengthexpressed as a percent and based on the in-fabric distance. Yarntake-up is the change in length expressed as a percent andbased on the out-of-fabric distance.5. Significance and Use5.1 The relationship of the length of a piece of fabric and thelength of yarn in the fabric
10、can be determined accurately onlybe measuring the length of yarn entering the loom and thelength of fabric made from that particular length of yarn. Inmost cases, however, the determination must of necessity bemade on a woven fabric by measuring the length of yarnremoved from a measured length of fa
11、bric, thus introducingcertain variations that will influence the accuracy of the test.Yarn removed from the woven fabric contains undulations orwaves that have been introduced by the weaving process. Heat,moisture, and mechanical shrinkage on subsequent finishingoperations may accentuate these undul
12、ations, and in all prob-ability, increase the force to pull them out and straighten theyarn. In order to accurately measure the length of the yarn afterthe removal of the crimp, these undulations must be pulled outwithout elongating the yarn. In some cases, the minimum forcenecessary to straighten t
13、he yarn will cause a certain amount ofthe elongation to take place, thus increasing the length of theyarn. Also, stresses imposed upon the yarn during the weavingprocess may have been sufficient to stretch the yarn beyond itselastic limit, again increasing its length. It is recognized thatdeterminat
14、ion made by measuring length of yarn removed froma measured length of fabric may tend to give crimp values that1This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,General.Current edition approved
15、July 1, 2012. Published August 2012. Originallyapproved in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D3883 04(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3883-04R12.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandard
16、s volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.are
17、somewhat higher than the crimp in the yarn as it lay in thefabric. In the case of fabrics made from yarns that exhibitdifferential shrinkage, or yarns of widely different count, oryarns woven at different tensions, the crimp of each type ofyarn in the fabric must be determined and reported separatel
18、y.5.2 This test method can be used for acceptance testing ofcommercial shipments but comparisons should be made withcaution because information on estimates of between-laboratory precision is limited as noted in 13.1.5.2.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-tween reported test res
19、ults for two laboratories (or more),comparative tests should be performed to determine if their isa statistical bias between them, using competent statisticalassistance. As a minimum, ensure the test samples to be usedare as homogeneous as possible, are drawn from the materialfrom which the disparat
20、e test results were obtained, and arerandomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory fortesting. The test results from the two laboratories should becompared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at aprobability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias isfound, either its caus
21、e must be found and corrected, or futuretest results for that material must be adjusted in considerationof the known bias.6. Apparatus6.1 Suitable Device4, for straightening the yarn throughapplication of horizontal or vertical tension, having two yarnsupport surfaces or two clamps, the distance bet
22、ween whichmay be altered in order to apply the needed tension.6.2 Suitable Marking Device, for marking bench marks onthe yarn specimen.7. Sampling and Test Specimens7.1 Primary Sampling UnitConsider rolls of fabric orfabric components of fabricated systems to be the primarysampling unit, as applicab
23、le.7.2 Laboratory Sampling UnitAs a laboratory samplingunit take from rolls two pieces of fabric, full width, each 375mm (15 in.) in length along the selvage (machine direction)after removing a first 1-mm (1-yd) length. For fabric compo-nents of fabricated systems use the entire system.7.3 Test Spec
24、imensFrom each laboratory sampling unit,as required for each the warpwise and fillingwise directions,take ten test specimens, each 300 mm (14 in.) long as directionin Section 9. Consider the long direction as the direction of test.7.3.1 For fabric widths 125-mm (5-in.) or more, take nospecimen close
25、r than 25-mm (1-in.) from the selvage edge.7.3.2 For fabric widths less than 125-mm (5-in.), use theentire width for specimens.7.3.3 Ensure specimens are free of folds, creases, orwrinkles. Avoid getting oil, water, grease, etc., on the speci-mens when handling.7.3.4 If the fabric has a pattern, ens
26、ure that the specimensare a representative sampling of the pattern.8. Conditioning8.1 Condition the specimens by bringing them to approxi-mate moisture equilibrium in the standard atmosphere forconditioning textiles as directed in Practice D1776.9. Preparation of Test Apparatus and Calibration9.1 Se
27、t-up procedures for machines from different manufac-turers may vary. Prepare and verify calibration of the testingdevice as directed in the manufacturers instructions.10. Procedure10.1 Test the specimens in the standard atmosphere fortesting textiles, as described in Practice D1776.10.2 Handle the t
28、est specimens carefully to avoid alteringthe natural state of the material.10.3 Test ten specimens from the warpwise direction or tenspecimens from the fillingwise direction, or both, as required ina material specification or contact order.10.4 Using the marking device, make two lines (benchmarks) 2
29、50 mm (10 in.) apart, perpendicular to the yarn beingtested and extending 25 mm (1 in.) into the fabric, and recordthe distance between bench marks as distance (F) (in-fabricdistance).10.4.1 If a direct reading device is used, follow the manu-facturers recommendations for establishing the specimenle
30、ngth.10.5 Prepare an edge by making a cut at least 350 mm (14in.) long, parallel, and in the direction of the yarn to bemeasured, and such that it crosses near the ends of both linesof the bench mark.10.6 Ravel several yarns from the cut edge, such that theycontain the bench marks.10.7 One at a time
31、, when ready to use, ravel ten yarnspecimens from the prepared edge of the fabric. Ensure that thebench marks appear on each yarn. Take care not to disturb thetwist or strain the yarn. Maintain identity of the fabric directionbeing evaluated, that is, warpwise or fillingwise.10.8 Fasten one of the y
32、arn specimens in the clamps of atensioning device or, if applicable, in the proper position of theyarn supports of a direct reading crimp tester with the benchmarks coincident with the nips of the respective clamps that areset for the initial in-fabric length.10.8.1 Clamp type devices may consist of
33、 a twist counterfitted with graduated sliding clamp, or a tension testingmachine or which the movement or action can be stoppedinstantly at any point, such as the constant-rate-of-elongation(CRE-Type) or other similar instrument. For a direct readingcrimp tester, the yarn is placed under the hook of
34、 the movableshaft with the bench marks on the yarn aligned with the upperfixed yarn supports.10.9 Apply a force to the yarn just sufficient to removeundulations due to weaving, without imparting stretch asdetermined by using one of the following three options.NOTE 1The three options can give differe
35、nt results. For maximumprecision between laboratories, it is recommended that the laboratories usethe same equipment and the same option.10.9.1 Option A, By HandStraighten the yarn by handagainst a scale graduated in 1 mm (116 in.), observe and record4Commercially available devices that have been fo
36、und acceptable are a twisttester with tension device, a tensile testing machine, and a crimp tester of the directreading type.D3883 04 (2012)2the distance between bench marks to the nearest 1 mm (116 in.)as (Y) (straightened yarn distance).NOTE 2This is the least accurate option because the tension
37、requiredto remove crimp is unknown.10.9.2 Option B, by Tension Device or Crimp TesterUsingone of the tensioning devices or crimp tester, apply a tensionforce based upon the known yarn size. If the tension force isnot sufficient to remove all the crimp, gradually increase thetension force until the c
38、rimp just removed. Use the determinedforce on all the yarns in the set and proportional force on anyother samples in the series or test.10.9.2.1 Estimate the required tension force using Eq 1:Tensile force, g 5 yarn number in tex 3 0.25 (1)10.9.3 Option C, Tensile Testing MachineUsing aconstant-rate
39、-of-extension (CRE-type) of testing machine, de-termine the force to remove undulations by analysis of aforce-extension as described in 10.9.3.1.10.9.3.1 Establish Point A as the point where the force-extension curve begins, that is, zero force and zero extension.Extrapolate the straight-line portio
40、n of the force-extensioncurve through the extension axis, Line CE. The portion of thecurveAD represents the removal of the crimp and initial stretchof the yarn. Establish Point D where the force-extension curveseparates from the line CE. Establish Point B by constructinga line from Point C, parallel
41、 to the force axis to curve AD.Establish Point L by constructing a line from Point B throughthe force axis, parallel to the extension axis. The forcecorresponding to Point L is the required tensile force to removethe crimp without stretching (see Fig. 1).10.10 Determine and record the length of the
42、yarn to thenearest 2.5 mm (0.1 in.) after removal of the crimp as follows:10.10.1 For clamp-type devices, measure the distance be-tween the bench marks on the straightened yarn and record asdistance (Y) (straightened yarn distance).10.10.2 For constant-rate-of-extension machines, determineand record
43、 the straightened distance (Y) between bench marksdirectly from the extension axis of the force-extension curveillustrated on Fig. 1 by line LB, projected to the extension axis,allowing for any chart magnification ratio.10.10.2.1 For some tensile testers, straightened yarn dis-tance (Y) and the perc
44、ent yarn crimp or yarn take-up can becomputer-processed automatically.10.10.3 For direct-reading crimp testers, read the yarn crimpor yarn take-up directly from the dial or scale.11. Calculation11.1 Calculate the average distance between the two benchmarks on the straightened yarn for all measured s
45、pecimens tothe nearest 2.5 mm (0.1 in.), for each warpwise direction andfillingwise direction, as applicable.11.2 Calculate the average yarn crimp or average yarntake-up to the nearest 0.1 % using Eq 2 or Eq 3, for eachwarpwise direction and fillingwise direction, as applicable:C 5 100Y2F!/F (2)T 5
46、100Y2F!/Y (3)where:C = yarn crimp, %,T = yarn take-up, %,F = average of distances between bench marks on yarn infabric, mm (in.) (from 10.4), andY = average of distances between bench marks on yarnafter removal from fabric and straightened under ten-sion, mm (in.) (from 10.10).11.2.1 When data are c
47、omputer-processed automatically,calculations generally are contained in the associated software.It is recommended that computer processed data be verifiedagainst known property values and its software described in thereport.11.2.2 For direct-reading crimp testers, the yarn crimp oryarn take-up is re
48、ad directly from the dial or scale.12. Report12.1 The report shall contain the following information:12.1.1 Report that the yarn crimp and yarn take-up wasdetermined as directed in Test Method D3883. Describe thematerial or product sampled and the method of sampling used.12.1.2 Report the following
49、information for the warpwiseand fillingwise directions for the laboratory sampling unit andfor the lot as applicable to a material specification or contractorder.12.1.2.1 Average yarn crimp and average yarn take-up;12.1.2.2 Test option, manufacturer, and model of test instru-ment;12.1.2.3 Force used to remove crimp;FIG. 1 Example Chart For Determining of Tensile Force UsingOption CD3883 04 (2012)312.1.2.4 When calculated, the standard deviation or thecoefficient of variation.12.1.2.5 For computer-processed data, identify the program(software) used.13. Precision and B
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