1、Designation: D 3994 02Standard Performance Specification forWoven Swimwear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3994; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in p
2、arentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics foruse in mens, womens and childrens swimwear, composed ofany textile fiber or mixture of tex
3、tile fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest method described in this specification: This standard doesnot purport to address all of the safety con
4、cerns, if any,associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of thisstandard to establish appropriate safety and health practicesand determine the applicability of regulatory limitations priorto use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434
5、 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1284 Test Methods for Relaxation and ConsolidationDimensional Changes of Stabilized Knit Wool FabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabricsby Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Met
6、hod for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Extension) Tensile Testing MachineD 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2905 Practice for Statements on Nu
7、mber of Specimensfor TextilesD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspirationn16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to
8、Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial Accelerated106 Colorfastness to Water: Sea107 Colorfastness to Water116 Colorfastnessto Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod129 Colorfastnessto Ozone in the Atmosphere Under HighHumidities135 DimensionalChanges in Automatic Home Launderingof Durable
9、 Press Woven or Knit Fabrics162 Colorfastness to Water: Chlorinated Pool172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluatio
10、n Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale.2.3 Federal Standard:16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tiles416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion, Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations42.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Table
11、s for In-spection by Attributes5NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTex
12、tiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Jan. 10, 2002. Published April 2002. Originallypublished as D 3994 81. Last previous editioin D 3994 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Ser
13、vice at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N.C. 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Do
14、cuments, U.S. Government PrintingOffice, Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United
15、 States.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 swimwear, ntextile garments intended for wear infresh, chlorinated, or salt water.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods and toTerminology D 123. Definitions found in a dictionary
16、 ofcommon terms are suitable for terms used in this specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for woven swimwear shallconform to the specification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, woven fabr
17、ics intended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements i
18、n Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3994,except for the following character
19、istic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticula
20、r style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Acceptance Testing LotUnless there is prior agree-ment consider as a lot for acceptance testing all material of asingle item r
21、eceived as a single shipment.6.2 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicableTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in a, b, and c is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change or color transfer to 1 fo
22、r very severe color changeor color transfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)A(CRT): 7.1Nonstretch fabrics 133 N (30 lbf), minStretch fabrics 89 N (20 lbf), min 40 % or greaterelongationYarn slippage14-in. (6-mm) separation 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.2Tear strength (nonstretch di
23、rection) 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Dimensional change:Laundering 3 %, max 7.4.1Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, originalfabric and after 1 laundering Class 4B, minChlorine Bleach Class 4B, min 7.5.10Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min 7.5.11Laundering 7.5.2Shade change Class 4B, m
24、inStaining Class 4C, minCrocking 7.5.3Dry Class 4D, minWet Class 4D, minWater 7.5.4Shade change Class 4B, minStaining Class 4C, minChlorinated Pool Class 4B7.5.5Perspiration 7.5.6Shade change Class 4BStaining Class 4CSea water 7.5.7Shade change Class 4B, minStaining Class 4C, minOzoneShade change Cl
25、ass 34B, minLight (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4B, min 7.5.9Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.6ASee Note 2.BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D3994022specification or other agreement between the purchaser and theseller, such as an
26、agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.3 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.6.4 Test Specimens Take the number of specimens di-rected in each of the applicable test methods. Perform
27、 the testson the fabric as it will reach the customer. Any “partiallyfinished” or “post-finish” fabrics should be processed inaccordance with the fabric manufacturers instructions.6.5 If the applicable test method does not specify thenumber of specimens, use the procedures in Practice D 2905 todeter
28、mine the number of specimens per laboratory samplingunit. Use (1) a reliable estimate of the variability of individualobservations on similar materials in the users laboratory, (2)a95 % probability level, and ( 3) an allowable difference of 5 %of the average between the test results on laboratory sa
29、mplingunits and the average for the laboratory sampling unit. Theaverage for a laboratory sampling unit is the average thatwould be obtained by applying the test method to all of thepotential specimens from that laboratory sampling unit.7. Test Methods7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking fo
30、rce, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensiletesting machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 + 10mm (12 + 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2Fabrics that include fibers which are known to lose strengthwhen wet, such
31、as rayon, should be tested for wet breaking strength, also.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained wit
32、h the CRT and the CREmachines. Consequently these two breaking load testers cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine shall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 4The precision of Test Method
33、 D 434 has not been established,and it may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts in terms of thenumber of ends and picks per inch.7.3 Tear Strength Determine the tear strength in thenonstretch direction as directed in Test Method D 1424.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 2261 o
34、r D 2262 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There maybe no overall correlation between the results obtained by the tongue tearmethod and the Elmendorf method. Consequently these two tear testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test MethodD 1424 s
35、hall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC 135 or as agreed between the purchaserand supplier.7.4.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas agreed between the purchas
36、er and the supplier.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingas directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.4.1.1.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness
37、 to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be agreed between thepurchaser and the supplier.7.5.3 Colorfastness to CrockingDetermine the colorfast-ness to dry and wet crocking as directed in AATCC TestMethod 8 for solid shades and AATCC T
38、est Method 116 forprints or as agreed between the purchaser and the supplier.7.5.4 Colorfastness to WaterDetermine the colorfastnessto water as directed in AATCC Test Method 107.7.5.5 Colorfastness to Water-Chlorinated PoolDeterminethe colorfastness as directed in AATCC Test Method 162.7.5.6 Colorfa
39、stness to PerspirationDetermine the color-fastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.5.7 Colorfastness to Sea WaterDetermine the colorfast-ness to sea water as directed in AATCC Test Method 106.7.5.8 Colorfastness to OzoneDetermine the colorfastnessto ozone as directed in AATCC T
40、est Method 129.7.5.9 Colorfastness to LightDetermine the colorfastnessto light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently
41、, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.5.10 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine thecolorfastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC TestMethod 188.7.5.11 Colorfastne
42、ss to Non-Chlorine BleachDeterminethe colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCTest Method 172.7.6 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabric Act Regulation
43、s.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; performance; specification; swimwearASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such p
44、atent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited e
45、ither for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fai
46、r hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.D3994023This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D3994024
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