1、Designation: D 3995 02Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dressand Vocational1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revis
2、ion, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers the minimumperformance requirements for mens and womens knitte
3、dfabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed ofany textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable tocareer apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing,that do not patently fit the categories in 3.1.1 and 3.1.2.Minimum perfo
4、rmance specifications for such fabrics shouldbe as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those factors where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion,
5、Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions p
6、rior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonw
7、oven FabricsDiaphragmBursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoodsConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD 3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabric2.2 AATCC Methods:3AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethodAATCC 15 Colorf
8、astness to PerspirationAATCC 16 Colorfastness to LightAATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas FumesAATCC 61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic Launder-ing, Commercial: AcceleratedAATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodAATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics AfterRepea
9、ted Home LaunderingsAATCC 132 Colorfastness to DrycleaningAATCC 135 Dimensional Change in Automatic HomeLaundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit FabricsAATCC 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome LaunderingAATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleachin Home LaunderingEvaluation P
10、rocedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 Chromatic Transference Scale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1The specific dated editions of ASTM test methods that prevailin this standard
11、are referenced in Section 7 on Test Methods.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 career apparel, ngarments which are manufacturedfor a variety of end uses and for which performance require-ments vary.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct resp
12、onsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2002. Published June 2002 Originallypublished as D 3995 81. Last previous edition D 3995 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annu
13、al Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N.C. 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Offi
14、ce,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThe two major end uses for careerapparel are dress apparel and vocational apparel.3.1.2 career apparel, dress, na category of tailored uni-form
15、 in which abusive wear is not common and in whichappearance is much more important than durability (see alsocareer apparel, vocational career apparel).3.1.3 career apparel, vocational, na type of garment wornas a uniform in which abusive wear is common and durabilityis generally more important than
16、appearance (see also careerapparel, dress career apparel).3.1.4 dimensional change in pressing and finishing, nthechange in dimensions undergone by a fabric subjected topressing and finishing during garment manufacturing.3.1.5 For definitions of other terms used in this specifica-tion, refer to the
17、individual ASTM and AATCC test methodsand Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 pressing and finishing, nthis term takes into accounta variety of industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment manufacturing.NOTE 2No standard method is available for r
18、eproducing on a labo-ratory level the results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both,used in the manufacture of knitted apparel garments.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for mens and womenscareer apparel shall conform to the specification requirement in
19、Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles
20、made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modifed by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification sha
21、llspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3995except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As
22、noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the
23、fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabrics orthose which will be pleated, creased, steamed, or pressedTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness and DP rating are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change
24、, color transfer, or wrinkleto 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.CharacteristicsRequirementsSectionCareer Dress Apparel Career Vocational ApparelBursting strength (ball burst) 60 lbf (267 N) min 60 lbf (267 N) min 7.1Dimensional stability (each direction):Pressing and finish
25、ing 2 % max shrinkage, 0 % growth 2 % max shrink, 0 % growth 7.2.1After 5 washes 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.4Fabric smoothness Class 4, DP, min Class 3, DP, min 7.3Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.4Colorfastness:Laundering: 7.5.1Color change Cla
26、ss 4, minAClass 4, minAStaining Class 3 or 4, min,BClass 3 or 4, minBSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.5.8Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.5.9Drycleaning: 7.5.3Color change Class 4, min,AClass 4, minACrocking 7.5.4Dry Class 4, minCClass 4, minCWet Class 3, minCCla
27、ss 3, minCBurnt Gas Fumes1 cycle: 7.5.5Shade change, originalfabric and after1 laundering or1 drycleaning Class 4, min Class 4, minALight: (xenon-arc) 7.5.6Outdoor (40 AATCC SFU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAIndoor (20 AATCC SFU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAPerspiration 7.5.7Color change Class 4, minAClass 4
28、, minAStaining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBAAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D3995022during manufacturing should be processed in accordance withthe fabric manufacturers instructions before tests are made.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed up
29、on, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the numb
30、er ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)using a reliable estimate of variability of individ
31、ual observa-tions on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength asdirected in Test Methods D 3787 or D 3786.NOTE 3There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith
32、the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Method D 3787 shallprevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting
33、attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using
34、 randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingWhere applicable mark the specimen(s) asdirected in Section 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Press andfinish specimen(s) as agreed by the purchaser and the sellerwi
35、th respect to time, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, andmechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the speci-men(s) and calculate the dimensional change as directed inSections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the sp
36、ecimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 Home Laundering Determine the maximum dimen-sional change after five launderings as directed in the appli-cable procedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser a
37、nd the seller.7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller (see Notes5 and 6).7.2.3 Institutional LaunderingThe wash conditions anddrying procedure shall be as agreed upon between the pur-chaser and the seller.7.2.4 Drycleaning Determin
38、e the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.3.1 through10.1.3.5 of Test Methods D 2724 (see Notes 5 and 6 ).NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric c
39、ould contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl) chloride fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2, 7.2.3,and 7.2.4 as desired. When this
40、 is done, the dimensional change due tolaundering or drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1, due to laundering. Thedimensional change to pressing and finishing will have occurred in thefabric before it reaches the user. Therefore, it should not be included as apart of the dimensional change to launder
41、ing or drycleaning of the fabricas it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).% dimensional change 5 100 D22D1!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Fabric Smoothness AppearanceDetermine the fabricsmoothness appearance, as directed
42、 in AATCC Method 124,after laundering using the wash-and-wear cycle, or the normalcycle as agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, asspecified in 7.2.2 or 7.2.3 for washable fabrics or afterdrycleaning as specified in 7.2.4 for drycleanable fabrics.7.3.1 For washable fabrics not intended f
43、or use in “durablepress” garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressingas specified in Section 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.3.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than 1/2 DP rating from that of
44、 thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.4 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Home Laundering Determine the colorfastness tolaunder
45、ing of home laundered fabrics as directed in MethodAATCC 61.7.5.2 Institutional LaunderingDetermine the colorfast-ness to laundering of institutional laundered fabrics as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.7.5.3 Drycleaning Determine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATC
46、C Method 132 (Note 3).7.5.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades orAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.5.5 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the origina
47、l fabric and after one launderingas in 7.2.2 or 7.2.3 or after one dry cleaning as in 7.2.4 asdirected in AATCC Method 23.7.5.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines liste
48、d in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.5.7 Perspiration Determine the colorfastness to perspi-ration
49、 as directed in AATCC Method 15.D39950237.5.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach De-termine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in Method AATCC 188.7.5.9 Colorfastness to NonChlorine Bleach Determinethe colorfastness to nonchlorine bleach as directed inMethod AATCC 172.7.6 When a claim is made for a special performancecharacteristic not covered by this specification, it should betested as directed in a test method and performance standardmutually acceptable to the purchaser and the seller.8. Keywords8.1 car
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