1、Designation: D3995 131Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dressand Vocational1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revisi
2、on, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1NOTESection 3 was updated editorially in September 2013.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers the min
3、imumperformance requirements for mens and womens knittedfabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed ofany textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable tocareer apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing,that do not paten
4、tly fit the categories Career Apparel or CareerApparel, Dress (see Terminology D7022 for these terms).Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics shouldbe as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those factors where eac
5、h fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standa
6、rd to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statemen
7、ts on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 (Withdrawn 2013)32.2 AATCC Methods:4AATCC 8
8、 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter MethodAATCC 15 Colorfastness to PerspirationAATCC 16.3 Colorfastness to LightAATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas FumesAATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: AcceleratedAATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodAATCC 124 Smoothness Appe
9、arance of Fabrics After Re-peated Home LaunderingAATCC 132 Colorfastness to DrycleaningAATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After HomeLaunderingAATCC 172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-ChlorineBleach in Home LaunderingAATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleachin Home LaunderingEvaluati
10、on Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 Chromatic 9-Step TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1The specific dated editions ofASTM test methods that prevailin this
11、standard are referenced in Section 7 on Test Methods.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2013. Published August 2013. Originallyapproved in 1981.
12、Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D3995 02(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D3995-13E01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary pag
13、e onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, G
14、overnment Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:caree
15、r apparel, career apparel, dress, career apparel, vocational,dimensional change in pressing and finishing, pressing andfinishing.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.4. Specificatio
16、n Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for mens and womenscareer apparel shall conform to the specification requirement inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements lis
17、ted in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table
18、 1 may be modifed by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3995except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the
19、purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and
20、 testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabrics orthose which will be pleated, creased, steamed, or pressedduring manufacturing s
21、hould be processed in accordance withthe fabric manufacturers instructions before tests are made.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior ag
22、reement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The classes of colorfastness and DP rating are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer,
23、 or wrinkleto 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.CharacteristicsRequirementsSectionCareer Dress Apparel Career Vocational ApparelBursting strength (ball burst) 60 lbf (267 N) min 60 lbf (267 N) min 7.1Dimensional stability (each direction):Pressing and finishing 2 % max shrin
24、kage, 0 % growth 2 % max shrink, 0 % growth 7.2.1After 5 washes 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.4Fabric smoothness Class 4, DP, min Class 3, DP, min 7.3Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.4Colorfastness:Laundering: 7.5.1Color change Class 4, minAClass 4
25、, minAStaining Class 3 or 4, min,BClass 3 or 4, minBSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.5.8Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.5.9Drycleaning: 7.5.3Color change Class 4, min,AClass 4, minACrocking 7.5.4Dry Class 4, minCClass 4, minCWet Class 3, minCClass 3, mi
26、nCBurnt Gas Fumes1 cycle: 7.5.5Shade change, originalfabric and after1 laundering or1 drycleaning Class 4, min Class 4, minALight: (xenon-arc) 7.5.6Outdoor (40 AATCC SFU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAIndoor (20 AATCC SFU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAPerspiration 7.5.7Color change Class 4, minAClass 4, minASt
27、aining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBAAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.D3995 1312specimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lo
28、t average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)using a reliable estimate of variability of individual observa-tions on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (Note 1)7.1 Bursting Strength
29、Determine the bursting strength asdirected in Test Methods D3787 or D3786.NOTE 2There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeabl
30、y. In case of controversy, Method D3787 shallprevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended
31、 for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingWhere applicab
32、le mark the specimen(s) asdirected in Section 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Press andfinish specimen(s) as agreed by the purchaser and the sellerwith respect to time, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, andmechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the speci-men(s) and calculate the dimensional cha
33、nge as directed inSections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 Home Laundering Determine the maximum d
34、imen-sional change after five launderings as directed in the appli-cable procedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller (see Notes4 and 5).7.2.3 Instituti
35、onal LaunderingThe wash conditions anddrying procedure shall be as agreed upon between the pur-chaser and the seller.7.2.4 Drycleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.3.1 through10.1.3.5 of Test Methods D2724 (see Notes 4 and 5 ).NOTE 4Launderable
36、 fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl) chloride fiber.
37、 “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleanedonly.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2, 7.2.3,and 7.2.4 as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due tolaundering or drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1, due to laundering. Thedimensional change to pressing and finishing
38、will have occurred in thefabric before it reaches the user. Therefore, it should not be included as apart of the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of the fabricas it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).% dimensional change 5 100 D22 D1!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or dryc
39、leaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Fabric Smoothness AppearanceDetermine the fabricsmoothness appearance, as directed in AATCC Method 124,after laundering using the wash-and-wear cycle, or the normalcycle as agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, asspecified in 7
40、.2.2 or 7.2.3 for washable fabrics or afterdrycleaning as specified in 7.2.4 for drycleanable fabrics.7.3.1 For washable fabrics not intended for use in “durablepress” garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressingas specified in Section 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.3.1.1 The fabric smoothness
41、 durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than 1/2 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.4 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, e
42、xceptwhen regulated by applicable Government mandatory stan-dards.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Home Laundering Determine the colorfastness tolaundering of home laundered fabrics as directed in MethodAATCC 61.7.5.2 Institutional LaunderingDetermine the colorfast-ness to laundering of institutional launder
43、ed fabrics as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.7.5.3 Drycleaning Determine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 2).7.5.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades orAATCC Method 116 for
44、prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.5.5 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingas in 7.2.2 or 7.2.3 or after one dry cleaning as in 7.2.4 asdirected in AATCC Method 23.7.5.6 LightDetermine colorfastness
45、to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, resul
46、ts obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.5.7 Perspiration Determine the colorfastness to perspi-ration as directed in AATCC Method 15.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in
47、Method AATCC 188.7.5.9 Colorfastness to Powdered NonChlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to nonchlorine bleach as di-rected in Method AATCC 172.7.6 When a claim is made for a special performancecharacteristic not covered by this specification, it should beD3995 1313tested as directed in a test
48、 method and performance standardmutually acceptable to the purchaser and the seller.8. Keywords8.1 career apparel; smoothnessASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are ex
49、pressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a mee
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