ASTM D3995-2014 Standard Performance Specification for Men&rsquo s and Women&rsquo s Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics Dress and Vocational《男人和女人针织职业装织物的标准性能规格 女装和职业装》.pdf

1、Designation: D3995 14Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dressand Vocational1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revisio

2、n, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers the minimumperformance requirements for mens and womens knittedfa

3、brics for dress and vocational career apparel composed ofany textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable tocareer apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing,that do not patently fit the categories Career Apparel or CareerApparel, Dr

4、ess (see Terminology D7022 for these terms).Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics shouldbe as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those factors where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 The following precautio

5、nary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification.Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and

6、determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D378

7、6 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Methods:4AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter Method

8、AATCC 15 Colorfastness to PerspirationAATCC 16.3 Colorfastness to LightAATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas FumesAATCC 61 Colorfastness to Laundering: AcceleratedAATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary VerticalCrockmeter MethodAATCC 124 Smoothness Appearance of Fabrics After Re-peated Home Launde

9、ringAATCC 132 Colorfastness to DrycleaningAATCC 135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics After HomeLaunderingAATCC 172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-ChlorineBleach in Home LaunderingAATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleachin Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEva

10、luation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 8 Chromatic 9-Step TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1The specific dated editions ofASTM test methods that prevailin this standard are referenced in Section 7 on Test

11、Methods.3. Terminology3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel see TerminologyD7022.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 20

12、14. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2013 as D3995 131. DOI:10.1520/D3995-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standa

13、rds Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superi

14、ntendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:career apparel, career apparel, dress, career apparel, voca

15、tional,dimensional change in pressing and finishing, pressing andfinishing.3.2 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC methods. For definitions of all othertextile terms see Terminology D123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for

16、 mens and womenscareer apparel shall conform to the specification requirement inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recogni

17、zed that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modifed by mutualagreement between the purch

18、aser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3995except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case ofcontroversy, t

19、he requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections

20、 of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer.Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabrics orthose which will be pleated, creased, steamed, or pressedduring manufacturing should be processed in accordance withthe fabric manufa

21、cturers instructions before tests are made.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The grades of colorfastness and SA rating are bas

22、ed on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkleto 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.CharacteristicsRequirementsSectionCareer Dress Apparel Career Vocational ApparelBursting strength (ball burst) 60 lbf (267 N) min 60 lbf (267 N) min

23、 7.1Dimensional stability (each direction):Pressing and finishing 2 % max shrinkage, 0 % growth 2 % max shrink, 0 % growth 7.2.1After 5 washes 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.4Fabric smoothness Grade 4, SA, min Grade 3, SA, min 7.3Flammability Grade 1 or Grade 2 Grade 1

24、 or Grade 2 7.4Colorfastness:Laundering:D7.5.1Color change Grade 4, minAGrade 4, minAStaining Grade 3 or 4, min,BGrade 3 or 4, minBSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4, minAGrade 4, minA7.5.8Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4, minAGrade 4, minA7.5.9Drycleaning: 7.5.3Color change Grade 4, min,AGrade

25、4, minACrocking:D7.5.4Dry Grade 4, minCGrade 4, minCWet Grade 3, minCGrade 3, minCBurnt Gas Fumes1 cycle: 7.5.5Shade change, originalfabric and after1 laundering or1 drycleaning Grade 4, min Grade 4, minALight: (xenon-arc) 7.5.6Outdoor (40 AATCC SFU) Grade 4, minAGrade 4, minAIndoor (20 AATCC SFU) G

26、rade 4, minAGrade 4, minAPerspiration:D7.5.7Color change Grade 4, minAGrade 4, minAStaining Grade 3, minBGrade 3, minBAAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.DSee Note 6.D3995 1426.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the t

27、estmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwo

28、uld be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)using a reliable estimate of variability of individual observa-tions on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength asdire

29、cted in Test Methods D3787 or D3786.NOTE 2There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Method D378

30、7 shallprevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded

31、 by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingWhere applicable mark the specimen(s) asdirected in

32、Section 4.3.1 of AATCC Method 135. Press andfinish specimen(s) as agreed by the purchaser and the sellerwith respect to time, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, andmechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the speci-men(s) and calculate the dimensional change as directed inSections 6 and 7 of

33、AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.3.1 through 10.1.3.5of Test Methods D2724.7.2.2 Home Laundering Determine the maximum dimen-sional change after five launderi

34、ngs as directed in the appli-cable procedure in AATCC Method 135 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller.7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller (see Notes4 and 5).7.2.3 Institutional LaunderingThe wash conditions and

35、drying procedure shall be as agreed upon between the pur-chaser and the seller.7.2.4 Drycleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.3.1 through10.1.3.5 of Test Methods D2724 (see Notes 4 and 5 ).NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanab

36、le exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl) chloride fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycle

37、anedonly.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2, 7.2.3,and 7.2.4 as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due tolaundering or drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1, due to laundering. Thedimensional change to pressing and finishing will have occurred in thefabric before

38、 it reaches the user. Therefore, it should not be included as apart of the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of the fabricas it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).% dimensional change 5 100 D22 D1!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pres

39、sing and finishing.7.3 Fabric Smoothness AppearanceDetermine the fabricsmoothness appearance, as directed in AATCC Method 124,after laundering using the wash-and-wear cycle, or the normalcycle as agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, asspecified in 7.2.2 or 7.2.3 for washable fabrics or

40、afterdrycleaning as specified in 7.2.4 for drycleanable fabrics.7.3.1 For washable fabrics not intended for use in “durablepress” garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressingas specified in Section 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.3.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable press (SA) rating ofsuch fabr

41、ics, and the SArating of drycleaned fabrics, shall havedecreased no more than 1/2 SA rating from that of the fabricbefore it is laundered or drycleaned.7.4 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by applicable Gover

42、nment mandatory stan-dards.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Home Laundering Determine the colorfastness tolaundering of home laundered fabrics as directed in MethodAATCC 61.NOTE 6It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcon

43、tain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.5.2 Institutional LaunderingDeter

44、mine the colorfast-ness to laundering of institutional laundered fabrics as agreedupon between the purchaser and the seller.7.5.3 Drycleaning Determine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 2).7.5.4 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as direc

45、ted in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades orAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller (see Note 6).7.5.5 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingas in 7.2.2 or 7.2.3 or after one dry cleaning as

46、 in 7.2.4 asdirected in AATCC Method 23.7.5.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.3.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16.3, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently,

47、these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option 3 shall prevail.7.5.7 Perspiration Determine the colorfastness to perspi-ration as directed in AATCC Method 15 (see Note 6).D3995 1437.5.8 Colorfastness to S

48、odium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine the colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in Method AATCC 188.7.5.9 Colorfastness to Powdered NonChlorine BleachDetermine the colorfastness to nonchlorine bleach as di-rected in Method AATCC 172.7.6 When a claim is made for a special performancecha

49、racteristic not covered by this specification, it should betested as directed in a test method and performance standardmutually acceptable to the purchaser and the seller.8. Keywords8.1 career apparel; smoothnessASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.