ASTM D4035-2002(2008) Standard Performance Specification for Knitted Necktie and Scarf Fabrics《针织领带和围巾织物的标准性能规范》.pdf

1、Designation: D 4035 02 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forKnitted Necktie and Scarf Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4035; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of

2、 last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted necktieand scarf fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture oftex

3、tile fibers.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of t

4、he safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating t

5、o TextilesD 2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fab-rics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor Textiles3D 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting St

6、rength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test2.2 AATCC Methods:48-1977 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC CrockmeterMethod15-1979 Colorfastness to Perspiration16-1977 Colorfastness to Light23-1975 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fume

7、s61-1975 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Launder-ing, Commercial: Accelerated96-1975 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116-1977 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-meter Method124-1978 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Re-peated Ho

8、me Launderings132-1977 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135-1978 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laun-derings of Durable Press Woven of Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gra

9、y Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR 1610Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-tilesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the desig

10、nation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 necktiea decorative band of fabric worn around theneck and tied in a knot or a bow.3.1.2 scarfin apparel, an oblong or square piece of clothworn for warmth or

11、 as a decorative item.3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods and toTerminology D 123.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics for neckties and scarfs shallconform to the specification requirements in Table

12、 1.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 4035

13、02.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical s

14、tandard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM Inter

15、national, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and theseller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is r

16、ecognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between th

17、e purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4035except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contr

18、o-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and testmethods are discussed in the appropriat

19、e sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach theconsumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabricsshould first be processed in accordance with the fabric manu-facturers instructions.6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when

20、 specified in anapplicable material specification, take the number of specimensdirected in each of the applicable test methods.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theprocedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number ofspecim

21、ens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of theaverage above or below the lot average (that is, the average thatwould be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)when using a reliable estimate of variability of individualobs

22、ervations on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (see Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 3786 or Test Method D 3787.NOTE 2There is

23、no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shal

24、l prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by a

25、n interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During Manufacturing6Mark specimen(s) as directed in 4.5 of AATCC Method 135.Press a

26、nd finish specimen(s) as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller with respect to time cycles, tempera-ture, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimensionalchange as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135.7.2.1.1 If no a

27、greement has been made between the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableproced

28、ure in AATCC Method 135-1978 or as agreed uponbetween the buyer and the seller (Note 4 and Note 5).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7.2.3 Dry-cleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three dry cleanings in accordance with Section10.1.1

29、through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724 (Note 4 andNote 5).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D 2594.NOTE 4Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable except6The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Me

30、thods, General.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numericalscale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numericalrating in Table 1 or a higher numeri

31、cal rating is acceptable.Characteristic Requirements SectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 50 lbf (222 N) 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.2.1After five launderings 5 % max 7.2.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 c

32、ycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original fabricShade change after one laun-dering or one dry cleaningClass 4AminClass 4AminSodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4Amin 7.3.8Laundering: 7.3.2Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4AminC

33、rocking: 7.3.4DryWetClass 4CminClass 3CminPerspiration 7.3.5Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin 7.3.6Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)DP3.5Dmin 7.4Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 7.5AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATC

34、C Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.D 4035 02 (2008)2where all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the ca

35、sewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “Dry-cleanable” are to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 5Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done the dimensional change due to laundering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change to pressi

36、ngand finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or dry-cleaning, an

37、dD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Dry

38、-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61-1975. The test conditions shall be as specified bythe seller (Note 4).7.3.3 Dry cleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry cl

39、ean-ing as directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 4).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationa

40、s directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines

41、cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to sodium hypochlorite bleach asdirected in AATCC Method 188.7.3.8 Colorfastness t

42、o NonChlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCMethod 172.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the seller, a

43、s specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 4).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in AATCC Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable-press (DP) ra

44、ting ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dry-cleaned.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, exceptwhen regulated by

45、applicable Government mandatory standard(see section 2.3).8. Keywords8.1 necktieASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the val

46、idity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your com

47、ments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have

48、 not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 4035 02 (2008)3