1、Designation: D 4114 02Standard Performance Specification forWoven Flat Lining Fabrics for Womens and Girls Apparel1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4114; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year
2、 of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven flat fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers to be
3、 used aslinings for womens and girls apparel.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven pile, woven fusible, fire-bonded fusible, sliver-knit pile,and sheepskin lining fabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction
4、 is perti-nent.1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish
5、appropriate safety and healthpractices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-tions prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1336 Test Metho
6、d for Distortion of Yarn in WovenFabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabricsby Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for
7、 Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:38 Colorf
8、astness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durabl
9、e Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray
10、 Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling P
11、rocedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:1This specification
12、is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Jan. 10, 2002. Published April 2002. Originallypublished as D 4114 82. Last previous edition D 4114 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM
13、 website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Pa
14、rk, NC 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.5Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C7
15、00, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specifica-tion, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC methods and toTerminology D 123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this specification.4. Specification Req
16、uirements4.1 The properties of woven flat fabrics, to be used aslinings in womens and girls apparel, shall conform to thespecification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequ
17、irements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements lis
18、ted in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4114except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reache
19、dbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particula
20、r properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such a
21、s an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmo
22、sphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestMethod D 5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile-testing machine is permitted. Th
23、e crosshead speed should be asTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsANOTE 1Class for color change, color transfer, and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orwrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristic Require
24、ments SectionBreaking strength (load)(CRT) 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1Yarn slippage 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at 67 N(15 lbf), min7.2Tongue-tear strength 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Yarn distortion 7.4Satins 2.5 mm (0.10 in.), max 7.4All other 1 mm (0.05 in.), maxDimensional change:After five launderingsAf
25、ter three dry cleanings3%,max2% , max7.5.17.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabricShade change after one laundering or one dry cleaningClass 4B, minClass 4B, minChlorine Bleach Class 4B, min 7.6.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min 7.6.8Laundering: 7.6.2Shade chan
26、geStainingClass 4B, minClass 3C, minDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade change Class 4B, minCrocking: 7.6.4DryWetClass 4D, minClass 3D, minPerspiration: 7.6.5Shade changeStainingClass 4B, minClass 3C, minLight (10 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc) Step 4B, min 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1) DP 3.5E, min 7.7Flammabili
27、ty pass 7.8AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength (load), tear strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeablysince there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 4, and Note 7).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAA
28、TCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.EFor durable-press fabrics only.D4114022agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine andwith the CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking-l
29、oad testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT methodshall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics
30、 with a low number of warp (ends) andfilling (picks) counts (see 5.2).7.3 Tongue-Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue-tearstrength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 1424 and D 2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this specification. There
31、may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with thetongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently,these three tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case ofcontroversy, Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn Distortion Determine the yarn distortion asdi
32、rected in Test Method D 1336.7.5 Dimensional Change: 7.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and dryin
33、g procedures shall beas specified by the supplier.7.5.2 Dry cleaning Determine the maximum dimensionalchanges after three dry cleanings, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dr
34、y-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be thecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goo
35、ds are to bedry-cleaned only.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23 after2 cycles.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1.
36、Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (Note 5).7.6.3 Dry cleaning Determine colorfastness to
37、dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.6.5 Perspiration Determine color
38、fastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations
39、between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Determine color-fastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC Test Meth
40、od188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Determinecolorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC TestMethod 172.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed upon
41、between the purchaser and the supplier as specified in 7.5.1.1for washable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2for dry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 10.2.5 o
42、f Test Methods D 2724.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable-press (DP) ratingof such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 rating from that of the fabricbefore it is laundered or drycleaned.7.8 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas a
43、greed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.7.8.1 When lining fabrics are used for purposes other thanlinings, (for example, as apparel fabrics), they shall meet orexceed the requirements of the applicable Part (1610, 1615, or1616) of the Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric
44、; lining; performance; specificationASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the ris
45、kof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of thi
46、s standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake
47、your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D4114023
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