1、Designation: D 4114 02 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forWoven Flat Lining Fabrics for Womens and Girls Apparel1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4114; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of
2、revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven flat fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixtur
3、e of fibers to be used aslinings for womens and girls apparel.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable towoven pile, woven fusible, fire-bonded fusible, sliver-knit pile,and sheepskin lining fabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where
4、 fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only tothe test methods portion, Section 7, of this performancespecification. This standard does not purport to address all ofthe safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user o
5、f this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a
6、 Standard Seam3D 1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in WovenFabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing M
7、achine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
8、2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmet
9、erMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Launderin
10、gEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military S
11、tandard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificationgive only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, orother test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shallprevail.1This p
12、erformance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 4114 02.2For re
13、ferenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is
14、 referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization
15、 Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this per
16、for-mance specification, refer to the individualASTM andAATCCmethods and to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of woven flat fabrics, to be used aslinings in womens and
17、 girls apparel, shall conform to thespecification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-tion.5.2 It is recognized th
18、at for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and
19、 the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4114except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the
20、requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
21、specified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll o
22、r piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in TestTABLE 1 Specification Re
23、quirementsANOTE 1Class for color change, color transfer, and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orwrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)(CRT) 111 N (25 l
24、bf), min 7.1Yarn slippage 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at 67 N(15 lbf), min7.2Tongue-tear strength 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Yarn distortion 7.4Satins 2.5 mm (0.10 in.), max 7.4All other 1 mm (0.05 in.), maxDimensional change:After five launderingsAfter three dry cleanings3 %, max2% , max7.5.17.5.2Color
25、fastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabricShade change after one laundering or one dry cleaningClass 4B,minClass 4B,minChlorine Bleach Class 4B,min 7.6.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4B,min 7.6.8Laundering: 7.6.2Shade changeStainingClass 4B,minClass 3C,minDry cleaning: 7.6.3Sha
26、de change Class 4B,minCrocking: 7.6.4DryWetClass 4D,minClass 3D,minPerspiration: 7.6.5Shade changeStainingClass 4B,minClass 3C,minLight (10 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc) Step 4B,min 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1)DP.5E,min 7.7Flammability pass 7.8AThere is more than one method that can be used to measur
27、e breaking strength (load), tear strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeablysince there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 4, and Note 7).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.EFor
28、 durable-press fabrics only.D 4114 02 (2008)2Method D 5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT)tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile-testing machine is permitted. The c
29、rosshead speed should be asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine andwith the CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking-load testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT me
30、thodshall prevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of warp (ends) andfilling (picks) counts (see 5.2).7.3 Ton
31、gue-Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue-tearstrength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 1424 and D 2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the resultsobtained with th
32、e tongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine.Consequently, these three tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. Incase of controversy, Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn Distortion Determine the yarn distortion asdirected in Test Method D 1336.7.5 Dimensional Change: 7.5.1 Launde
33、ringDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall beas specified by the supplier.7.5.2 Dry clean
34、ing Determine the maximum dimensionalchanges after three dry cleanings, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.5 of Test Methods D 2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-clea
35、nable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be thecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to bedry-cleaned only.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fu
36、mes Determine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed inAATCC Test Method 23 after2 cycles.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1.Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7
37、.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (Note 5).7.6.3 Dry cleaning Determine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4
38、CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.6.5 Perspiration Determine colorfastness to perspira-tion as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.
39、6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 7There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchan
40、geably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Determine color-fastness to chlorine bleach as directed in AATCC Test Method188.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Determinecolorfas
41、tness to non-chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC TestMethod 172.7.7 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier as specified in 7.5.1.1for w
42、ashable fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2for dry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-pressgarments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 10.2.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable-pres
43、s (DP) ratingof such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 rating from that of the fabricbefore it is laundered or drycleaned.7.8 Flammability The flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.7.8.1 When lining
44、 fabrics are used for purposes other thanlinings, (for example, as apparel fabrics), they shall meet orexceed the requirements of the applicable Part (1610, 1615, or1616) of the Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; lining; performance; specificationD 4114 02 (2008)3ASTM Internati
45、onal takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely thei
46、r own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should b
47、e addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standard
48、s, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 4114 02 (2008)4
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