1、Designation: D4114 02 (Reapproved 2008)D4114 14Standard Performance Specification forWoven Flat Lining Fabrics for Womens and Girls Apparel1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4114; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the ca
2、se of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven flat fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or
3、 mixture of fibers to be used aslinings for womens and girls apparel.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven pile, woven fusible, fire-bonded fusible, sliver-knit pile, andsheepskin lining fabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those propert
4、ies where fabric direction is pertinent.1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this performancespecification.This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of t
5、he user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability ofregulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Us
6、ing a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)3D1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in Woven FabricsD1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Exten
7、sion TensileTesting Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-TraverseTensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel FabricsD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elo
8、ngation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration1616.2 Colorfastness to LightLight: Carbon-Arc16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fum
9、es61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering, Commercial: Laundering: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method124 Smoothness Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated Home LaunderingsLaundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Chan
10、ges in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven or Knit Fabricsof Fabrics after Home Laundering172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering1 This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D
11、13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008July 1, 2014. Published October 2008August 2014. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 20022008 asD4114 02.D4114 02(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4114-02R08.10.1520/D4114-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, w
12、ww.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 Available from American Assoc
13、iation of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit m
14、ay not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Har
15、bor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 38 AATCC 9-Step Chromati
16、c Transference ScaleA Glossary of AATCC Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to te
17、st methods in this performance specification give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 For terminology related to apparel see Terminology D7022.3.1.2 For defin
18、itions of textile terms used in this performance specification, refer to the individualASTM andAATCC methodsand to Terminology D123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of woven flat fabr
19、ics, to be used as linings in womens and girls apparel, shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performan
20、ce specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may findacceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed inTable 1 may be modified
21、 upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D4114 exceptfor the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the
22、supplier, and in case of controversy, therequirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varyingperformance parameters for any particular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and methods are d
23、iscussed in the appropriate sections of the specified testmethods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-S
24、TD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric andat least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force Determine the dry breaking force, in the standard atmosphere for testing textil
25、es, as directed in TestMethod D5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensile-testing machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 6 10mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile-testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should
26、 be as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and with the CREmachine. Consequently, these two breaking-load testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT method shall prevail.
27、7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, and it may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of warp (ends) and filling(picks) counts (see 5.2).5 Available from Superint
28、endent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.6 Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.D4114 1427.3 Tongue-Tear StrengthDetermine the tongue-tear strength as directed in Test Method D2
29、262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D1424 and D2261 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this performance specification.There may be no overall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, thesethree t
30、ear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D2262 shall prevail.7.4 Yarn DistortionDetermine the yarn distortion as directed in Test Method D1336.7.5 Dimensional Change:Change:7.5.1 LaunderingLaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensional change after five laundering
31、s, or as agreed upon betweenthe purchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicable procedure in AATCC Test Method 135 (Note 5).7.5.1.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall be as specified by the supplier.7.5.2 Dry cleaning Determine the maximum dimensional changes after three dry c
32、leanings, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in 10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D2724.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-cleanable except where all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. For example,the fabric could contain
33、 a functional finish that is soluble in the solvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the case withpoly(vinyl chloride) fiber. “Dry-cleanable” goods are to be dry-cleaned only.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsANOTE 1Class for color change, color transfer, and DPSA ratin
34、g is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer,or wrinkle to 1 for severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load)(CRT) 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1Yarn slippage 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at 67 N(15 lbf),
35、 min7.2Tongue-tear strength 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.3Yarn distortion 7.4Satins 2.5 mm (0.10 in.), max 7.4All other 1 mm (0.05 in.), maxDimensional change:After five launderingsAfter three dry cleanings3 %, max2% , max7.5.17.5.2Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabricS
36、hade change after one laundering or one dry cleaningClass 4B , minClass 4B , minShade change, original fabricShade change after one laundering or one dry cleaningGrade 4B , minGrade 4B , minChlorine Bleach Class 4B , min 7.6.7Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4B , min 7.6.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4
37、B , min 7.6.8Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach Grade 4B , min 7.6.8Laundering:F 7.6.2Shade changeStainingClass 4B , minClass 3C , minShade changeStainingGrade 4B , minGrade 3C , minDry cleaning: 7.6.3Shade change Class 4B , minShade change Grade 4B , minCrocking:F 7.6.4DryWetClass 4D , minClass 3D , minD
38、ryWetGrade 4D , minGrade 3D , minPerspiration:F 7.6.5Shade changeStainingClass 4B , minClass 3C , minShade changeStainingGrade 4B , minGrade 3C , minLight (10 AATCC FU)(xenon-arc) Step 4B , min 7.6.6Light (10 AATCC Fading Units)(xenon-arc) Grade 4B , min 7.6.6Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1) DP 3.5E
39、, min 7.7Fabric smoothness appearance (see 7.7.1) SA 3.5E , min 7.7Flammability pass 7.8A There is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength (load), tear strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeablysince there may be no overall correlation betwee
40、n them (see Note 2, Note 4, and Note 78).B AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.C AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.D AATCCAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.E For durable-press fabrics only.F See Note 7.D4114 1437.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas Fumes Determine the colorfastness to burnt gas fumes on the
41、original fabric and after one laundering or onedry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23 after 2 cycles.NOTE 6Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.1. Dry-cleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.2.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launderi
42、ng as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC Test Method61. The test conditions shall be as specified by the supplier (Note 5, Note 7).NOTE 7It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain acombination of
43、 polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is, therefore,recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.6.3 Dry cleaning Determine colorfastness to dry clea
44、ning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132 (Note 5).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wet crocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.supplier (Note 7).7.6.5 Perspiration Dete
45、rmine colorfastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.15 (Note 7).7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16. 16.3, Option 3.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution between the various types of machines listed in AATCC Test
46、 Method 16, 16.2 and 16.3,with no overall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained withthe Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc machine listed in 16.3 Option E3 shall prevail.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite
47、 BleachDetermine colorfastness to chlorine bleach as directed inAATCC Test Method 188. The test conditions shall be as specified by the seller.7.6.8 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine BleachDetermine colorfastness to non-chlorine bleach as directed in AATCCTest Method 172. The test conditions sh
48、all be as specified by the seller.7.7 Fabric Smoothness AppearanceDetermine the fabric smoothness appearance as directed inAATCC Test Method 124 afterlaundering using the wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier as specifiedin 7.5.1.1 for washable
49、 fabrics or after dry cleaning as specified in 7.5.2 for dry-cleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.7.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable-press garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing as specified in10.2.5 of Test MethodsThe fabric smoothness (SA) rating of such fabrics, D2724.and the SA rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than 0.5 SA rating from that of the fabric before it is laundered or drycleaned.7.7.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable-press (DP) rating of such fabrics, and the DP rating o
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