1、Designation: D 4116 01 (Reapproved 2008)Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted and Woven Corset-Girdle-Combination Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4116; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, i
2、n the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven and knit-ted fabrics composed of any t
3、extile fiber or mixture of fibersused in corsets, girdles or a combination of the same.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted or woven corset-girdle-combination fabrics, to knittedlace fabrics, and to fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length an
4、d widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and dete
5、rmine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D 4124 Test Methods for Separation of Asphalt into FourFraction
6、sD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)D 3786 Test Method
7、for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastn
8、ess to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Pr
9、ess Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Pr
10、ocedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale.2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spect
11、ion by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction
12、of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4116 01.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, ww
13、w.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American
14、 Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbin
15、s Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this perfor-mance specification, refer to the individualASTM andAATCCmethods and to Termi
16、nology D 123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted and woven fabrics for wom-ens and girls corset-girdle-combinations shall conform to thespecification requirements in Table 1.5.
17、 Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all the require-ments listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made
18、 from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallsp
19、ecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4116except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As note
20、d in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance test
21、ing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabrican
22、d at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force (woven fabrics only)Determine thedry breaking force in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 5034, using a constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile-testing machine with the s
23、peed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile-testing machine may be used. The crosshead speed should be as agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained w
24、ith the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot beTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change orcolor transfer.Chara
25、cteristicRequirementsSectionKnit WovenBreaking strength (load)(CRT)A. 301 N (70 lbf), min 7.1Bursting strength (ball burst)A222 N (50 lbf), min . 7.2Tongue-tear strengthA. 13 N (3 lbf), min 7.3Yarn slippage . 6mm(14 in.) separation 155 N (35 lbf),min7.4Dimensional change:Laundering 7.5.1LengthWidth5
26、 % max5 % max5 % max3 % maxColorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4B, min Class 4B,minShade change, after onelaunderingClass 4B, min Class 4B,minLaundering: 7.6.2Shade changeStainingClass 4B,minClass 3C,minClass 4B,minClass 3C,minCrocking: 7.6.3DryWetClass 4D,
27、minClass 3D,minClass 4D,minClass 3D,minPerspiration: 7.6.4Shade changeStainingClass 4B,minClass 3C,minClass 4D,minClass 3D,minLight (10 AATCC FU)A(xenon-arc) Step 4B, min Step 4C,min 7.6.5Chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B,min 7.6.6Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4B, min Class 4B,min 7.6.7Flammability
28、 pass pass 7.7AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength (load).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D 4116 01 (2008)2used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Burst
29、ing Strength (knit fabrics only)Determine thebursting strength of knit fabrics as directed in Test MethodsD 3786 or D 3787 as agreed upon between the purchaser andthe supplier.NOTE 3Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength
30、 of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tomanufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlationbetween the results obtained with the CRT machine equipped with abursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two burstin
31、gtesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tested method are
32、being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the supplier using randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated
33、.7.3 Tongue-Tear Strength (woven fabrics only)Determinethe tear strength as directed in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D 1424 or D 2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the re
34、sultsobtained with the tongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine.Consequently, these three testers cannot be used interchangeably. In caseof controversy, Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (woven fabrics only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as direct
35、ed in TestMethod D 434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of warp (ends) andfilling (picks) counts (see 5.2).7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 LaunderingDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after five launderings, or a
36、s agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method
37、 23 after1 cycle.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.7.6.3 CrockingDetermine colorfastness t
38、o dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.6.4 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.5 LightDetermine colorfastness to li
39、ght as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, resu
40、lts obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.6.6 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method
41、16.7.7 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier,provided they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; foundation garment; performance; specificationASTM International takes no posi
42、tion respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibili
43、ty.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to AST
44、M International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address
45、shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D 4116 01 (2008)3
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