1、Designation: D4116 14Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted and Woven Corset-Girdle-Combination Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4116; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revisi
2、on, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven and knit-ted fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixt
3、ure of fibersused in corsets, girdles or a combination of the same.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted or woven corset-girdle-combination fabrics, to knittedlace fabrics, and to fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to the length and widthdirections fo
4、r those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bi
5、lity of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn2003)3D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Singl
6、e Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextileFabricsDiaphragm Bursti
7、ng Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: Cro
8、ckmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16.3 Colorfastness to Light: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing172 Colorfastness
9、to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach inHome Laundering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 8 AATCC 9-Step ChromaticTransference ScaleA Glossary of A
10、ATCC Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only
11、 thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Curren
12、t edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2008 as D4116 01(2008).DOI: 10.1520/D4116-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book
13、of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Pa
14、rk, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Har
15、bor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13. Terminology3.1 For terminology related to Apparel, see TerminologyD7022.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms, see Terminol-ogy D123.3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing,refer to specific AATCC
16、 test methods, or the glossary ofAATCC Standard Terminology, or both.3.4 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms aresuitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted and woven fabrics for wom-ens and girls corset-girdle-combinations shal
17、l conform to thespecification requirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the supplier,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all the require-ments listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fas
18、hion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon agree-ment between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In
19、 such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4116except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in
20、Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sa
21、mpling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cu
22、t two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Grade in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change orcolor transfer.Chara
23、cteristicRequirementsSectionKnit WovenBreaking strength (load)(CRT)A. 301 N (70 lbf), min 7.1Bursting strength (ball burst)A222 N (50 lbf), min . 7.2Tongue-tear strengthA. 13 N (3 lbf), min 7.3Yarn slippage . 6mm(14 in.) separation 155 N (35 lbf),min7.4Dimensional change:Laundering 7.5.1LengthWidth5
24、 % max5 % max5 % max3 % maxColorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle: 7.6.1Shade change, original fabric Grade 4B, min Grade 4B,minShade change, after onelaunderingGrade 4B, min Grade 4B,minLaundering:E7.6.2Shade changeStainingGrade 4B,minGrade 3C,minGrade 4B,minGrade 3C,minCrocking:E7.6.3DryWetGrade 4D,
25、minGrade 3D,minGrade 4D,minGrade 3D,minPerspiration:E7.6.4Shade changeStainingGrade 4B,minGrade 3C,minGrade 4B,minGrade 3C,minLight (10 AATCC Fading Units)A(xenon-arc)Grade 4B, min Grade 4B,min 7.6.5Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Grade 4B, min Grade 4B,min 7.6.6Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4B, min
26、 Grade 4B,min 7.6.7Flammability pass pass 7.7AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength (load).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.DAATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.ESee Note 8.D4116 1427. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking
27、Force (woven fabrics only)Determine thedry breaking force in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D5034, using a constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile-testing machine with the speed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, a consta
28、nt-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile-testing machine may be used. The crosshead speed should be as agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load test
29、ers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Bursting Strength (knit fabrics only)Determine thebursting strength of knit fabrics as directed in Test MethodsD3786 or D3787 as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.NOTE 3Care should be taken to
30、subtract the tare diaphragm pressurefrom the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric whenusing the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according tomanufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlationbetween the results obtained with the CRT m
31、achine equipped with abursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two burstingtesters cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRTmachine equipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequ
32、ipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tested method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laborato
33、ry of the supplier using randomized replicatespecimens of the type of material to be evaluated.7.3 Tongue-Tear Strength (woven fabrics only)Determinethe tear strength as directed in Test Method D2262.NOTE 5If preferred, the use of Test Methods D1424 or D2261 ispermitted with existing requirements as
34、 given in this performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the resultsobtained with the tongue-tear machines and with the Elmendorf machine.Consequently, these three testers cannot be used interchangeably. In caseof controversy, Test Method D2262 shall prevail.7.4 Resistanc
35、e to Yarn Slippage (woven fabrics only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of warp (ends) andfilling (picks) counts (see 5.2).7.5 Dimensional Cha
36、nge:7.5.1 Laundering Determine the maximum-dimensionalchange after five launderings, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier, as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the or
37、iginal fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23 after1 cycle.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.5.1.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The t
38、est conditions shall be as specified by theseller.NOTE 8It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystandard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatcontain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fab
39、rics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining results obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.6.3 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints,
40、 or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier (see Note 8).7.6.4 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15 (see Note 8).7.6.5 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.3 Option 3.7.6.6 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypo
41、chlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC TestMethod 188. The test conditions shall be as specified by theseller.7.6.7 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine BleachDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC TestMethod 172. The test conditions shall be as specifi
42、ed by theseller.7.7 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier,provided they meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; foundation garment; performance; specificationASTM International
43、takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own
44、 responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be add
45、ressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at
46、 the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D4116 143
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