1、Designation: D 4119 01Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted Dress Shirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4119; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revi
2、sion. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabricscomprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used inmens and boys
3、 dress shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted fabrics used for interlinings.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety conc
4、erns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD
5、 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Dia
6、phragm Burst-ing Strength Tester Method3D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test32.2 AATCC Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt
7、Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings132
8、Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven and Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure No. 1 Gray Scale For Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure No. 2
9、 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure No. 3 AATCC Chromatic Transfer-ence Scale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attribu
10、tesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 dimensional change, n in pressing and finishing oftextiles, t
11、he change in dimensions of a fabric caused bypressing and finishing during garment manufacture.3.1.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCCmethods and to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 press
12、ing and finishingthis term takes into accountall of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Ma
13、y 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4119 82. Last previous edition D 4119 95.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Doc
14、ument Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued; see 1997 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.4AATCC Technical Manual, available from the American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Gove
15、rnment Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.NOTE 2No m
16、ethod is available for reproducing on a laboratory levelthe results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both, used in themanufacture of garments.73.3 Definitions of terms found in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for this performance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1
17、 The properties of fabrics for mens and boys knitteddress shirts shall conform to the specification requirements inTable 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon agreement between the purchaser and the seller,fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this spe
18、cification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified upon ag
19、ree-ment between the purchaser and the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4119except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the seller, a
20、nd in case of contro-versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be usedas a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demandsdictate varying performance parameters for any particular styleof fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andmethods are discussed in
21、 the appropriate sections of thespecified methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Labora
22、tory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in T
23、estMethod D 3787 using an approved type of constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) machine equipped with a bursting attachmentor Test Method D 3786 using an approved type of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and theseller.NOTE 3There is no overall correlation between the results
24、obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers shouldnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment method shall prevail.NOTE 4The precision of the ba
25、ll burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory check test in the lab
26、oratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 5.4 of AATCC Method 135. Pressand finish specimen(s) as agreed upon betw
27、een the purchaserand the seller with respect to time cycles, temperature, steam,vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measurethe specimen(s) and calculate the dimensional change asdirected in Sections 4 and 7 of AATCC Method 135 (see Note2).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between
28、the pur-chaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D 2724.7.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Method 135
29、(Notes 5 and 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the seller.7The development of a method has been referred to Subcommittee D13.59.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in a,b,c and DP is based on a numerical scale of 5 fornegligible or no color change,
30、 color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for verysevere color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating inTable 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequire-mentsSectionBursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50lbf)7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % ma
31、x 7.2.1After 5 launderings (see 7.2.2.2 ifshrinkage exceeds 3%)3 % max 7.2.2After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 7.2.3Growth 3 % max 7.2.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes2 cycles:Shade change, original fabric Class 4A, min 7.3.1Shade change after 1 launderingor1 drycleaningClass 4A, minLaundering:Shade changeS
32、tainingClass 4A, minClass 3B, min7.3.2Drycleaning:Shade change Class 4A, min 7.3.3Crocking:DryWetClass 4C, minClass 3C, min7.3.4Perspiration:Shade changeStainingClass 4A, minClass 3B, min7.3.5Light (20 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4A, min 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min 7.3.7Non-Chlorine Bleach Cla
33、ss 4A, min 7.3.8Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)FlammabilityDP 3.5D, minPass7.47.5AA AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable press fabrics only.D41190127.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderingsexceeds 3 %, dete
34、rmine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3 % shrinkage, then the fabric meets thespecificatio
35、n requirements in Table 1.7.2.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum-dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in 10.1.1 through10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 (Notes 5 and 6).7.2.4 GrowthDetermine the growth of the fabric as di-rected in Test Methods D 2594.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expe
36、cted to be dry-cleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish that is soluble in thesolvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be thecase with poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods
37、labeled “Dry-cleanable” are tobe drycleaned only.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion dueto laundering or drycleaning. The dimensi
38、onal change to pressing andfinishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not tobe added to the dimensional change due to laundering or drycleaning ofthe fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt
39、gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1.Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as
40、 directed in the applicable procedure of AATCCMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as directed in AATCCMethod 135 (Note 5).7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaningas directed in AATCC Method 132 (Note 5).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AA
41、TCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints, or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the seller.7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 8There are distin
42、ct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the WaterCooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Opti
43、on E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.3.8 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC
44、Method 124 after laundering using thewash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and seller as specified in 7.2.2.1 forwashable fabrics or as specified in 7.2.3 for dry-cleanablefabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments deter
45、mine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in 5.12 of AATCC Method 96.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness or durable press (DP) ratingof such fabrics, and the DP rating of dry-cleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric before it is laundered or dryclean
46、ed.7.5 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the seller, providedthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the FlammableFabrics Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 shirtASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights a
47、sserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time
48、 by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will re
49、ceive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-83
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