1、Designation: D4153 14Standard Performance Specification forMens, Womens, and Childrens Woven HandkerchiefFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4153; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of
2、 last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabrics tobe used in the manufacture of mens, womens, and childrenshandke
3、rchiefs, both utilitarian and decorative.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toopen-work fabrics such as lace which is used primarily todecorate handkerchiefs, or woven fabrics used for the manu-facture of scarves.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections f
4、or those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bili
5、ty of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedu
6、re (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine) (Withdrawn 1995)3D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens forTextiles (Withdrawn 2008)3D5034
7、 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation ofTextile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering
8、Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimesional Changes in Laundering of Woven and Knit-ted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Launderings135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or K
9、nit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering2.3 Federal Standard:16CFRCode of Federal Regulations, Chapter IIConsumerProduct Safety Commission, Subchapter DFlammableFabrics Act Regulations52.4 Military Standard:MIL-STD
10、105 Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by Attributes6NOTE 1Reference to test methods in this performance specificationgive only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, orother test methods. The current editions of each test method cited shallprevail.3. Terminology3.1 Defini
11、tions:1This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM CommitteeD13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 onApparel.Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014. Published March 2014. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D4153
12、01(2012).DOI: 10.1520/D4153-14.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3The last approved version of
13、this historical standard is referenced onwww.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.5Available from U.S. Government Printing Office Superintendent of Documents,732 N. Capitol St., N
14、W, Mail Stop: SDE, Washington, DC 20401, http:/www.access.gpo.gov.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. Uni
15、ted States13.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D123. Definitions found in adictionary of common terms are suitable for terms used in thisperformance specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The
16、properties of woven fabric for mens, womens, andchildrens handkerchiefs shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Tab
17、le 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be
18、modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4153except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchas
19、er and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest
20、 methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, takeat random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and theseller, such as an agreement to
21、 use MIL-STD-105.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric,and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the testmethod does not specify the number of specimens, use theproced
22、ures in Practice D2905 to determine the number ofspecimens, such that the user may expect at the 95% probabil-ity level that the test result is no more than 5% of the averageabove or below the lot average (that is, the average that wouldbe obtained by applying this method to the entire lot) whenusin
23、g a reliable estimate of variability of individual observa-tions on similar materials in the users laboratory underconditions of single-operator precision.7. Test Methods (see Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force, inthe standard atmosphere for testing textiles, as directed in Te
24、stMethod D5034, using a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensiletesting machine with the speed of the pulling clamp at 300 610 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedupon between the p
25、urchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and theCRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine shallprevail.7.2 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear st
26、rength as directedin Test Method D2262.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of Test Method D1424 or Test MethodD2261 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this perfor-mance specification. There may be no overall correlation between theresults obtained with the tongue tear machines and the Elmen
27、dorfmachine. Consequently, these three testers cannot be used interchange-ably. In case of controversy, Test Method D2262 shall prevail.7.3 Dimensional Change in LaunderingDetermine themaximum dimensional change after five launderings, or asagreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier, asdirec
28、ted in the applicable procedure in AATCC TestMethod 135.7.4 Colorfastness:7.4.1 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in AATCC Test Method 61. The test conditionsshall be as specified by the supplier.NOTE 4It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained bystan
29、dard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades thatTABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1The grades of colorfastness and SA rating are based on anumerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orwrinkle to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.
30、Characteristic Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT)A80 N (18 lbf), min 7.1Tongue tear strengthA4.5N(1lbf) 7.2Dimensional change:After 5 launderings 50 % max 7.3Colorfastness to:Laundering:F7.4.1Shade change Grade 4BminStaining Grade 3CminBurnt gas fumes: Grade 4Bmin 7.4.2Alteration in
31、shade: 1 cycle onoriginal and after 1 washingGrade 4Bmin 7.4.2Crocking:F7.4.3DryWetGrade 4DminGrade 3DminPerspiration:F7.4.4Shade changeStainingGrade 4BminGrade 3CminLight (xenon arc)A7.4.520 AATCC Fading units Grade 4BminChlorine Bleach Grade 4B,min 7.4.6Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4B,min 7.4.7Fabric
32、 appearance (see 7.5.1.1)DP3.5Emin 7.5Flammability pass 7.6AMore than one method can be used to measure these properties. Thesemethods cannot be used interchangeably since there can be no overall correlationbetween them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 6).BAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.CAATCC Gray
33、Scale for Staining.DAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.EFor durable press fabrics only.FSee Note 4.D4153 142contain a combination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may notshow the full staining propensity of such fabrics in consumer use. It is,therefore, recommended that the staining result
34、s obtained by these testsnot be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.4.2 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingas directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 5Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.3.7.4.3 Croc
35、kingDetermine the colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier (see Note 4).7.4.4 PerspirationDetermine the colorfastness to perspi-ration as directed in AATCC Test
36、 Method 15 (see Note 4).7.4.5 LightDetermine the colorfastness to light as directedin AATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, with nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these
37、machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with thewater cooled xenon arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.4.6 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach Method 172Determine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC TestMethod 16.7.4.7 Colorfastness to Non-chl
38、orine Bleach Method 188Determine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCC TestMethod 16.7.5 Fabric Appearance After Repeated Home Launder-ingsDetermine the fabric appearance as directed in AATCCTest Method 124 after laundering using the wash-and-wearcycle or the normal cycle as agreed upon betwee
39、n the pur-chaser and the supplier as specified in 7.3 for washable fabrics.7.5.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “Durable Press”products, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in Section 5.12 of AATCC Test Method 96.7.5.1.1 The fabric smoothness, or durable press (DP) rating
40、of such fabrics shall have decreased no more than12 durablepress rating from that of the fabric before it is laundered.7.6 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier,provided they met or exceed those of 16CFRPart 1610 of theFlammable Fabri
41、cs Act Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; handkerchief; performance; specification; wo-ven fabricASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determi
42、nation of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or wi
43、thdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that y
44、our comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (si
45、ngle or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).D4153 143
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