1、Designation: D 4154 01Standard Performance Specification forMens and Boys Knitted and Woven Beachwear and SportsShirt Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4154; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revisio
2、n, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted and wo-ven fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mix
3、ture of fibersused in mens and boys beachwear and sports shirts.1.2 This performance specification is not applicable toknitted and woven fabrics used for interlining and swimwear.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
4、nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referen
5、ced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Fabrics byFallingPendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of W
6、oven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)3D 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of KnittedFabrics Having Low PowerD 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor T
7、extilesD 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength ofKnitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Burst-ing Strength Tester Method4D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of KnittedGoods: Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test4D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
8、of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:58 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated96 Dimensional Changes in
9、 Laundering of Woven andKnitted Textiles Except Wool116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingsof Durable Press Woven of Knit
10、 Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:616
11、CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commis-sion Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 200
12、1. Originallypublished as D 4154 82. Last previous edition D 4154 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM
13、 website.3Discontinued; see 1994 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4Discontinued; see 1997 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.5AATCC Technical Manual, available from the American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.6Available fr
14、om Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.2.4 Military Standard:7MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Ref
15、erence to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 dimensional change, n in pressing and finishing oftextiles, the change in
16、 dimensions of a fabric caused bypressing and finishing during garment manufacture.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC testmethods and to Terminology D 123.3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.3.1 pressing and f
17、inishingThis term takes into accountall of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used ingarment production.NOTE 2No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-ratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments usedin the manufacture of garments.83.4 Defini
18、tions of terms used in a dictionary of commonterms are suitable for terms used in this performance specifi-cation.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of fabrics of woven and knitted fabricsfor menss and boys beachwear and sport shirts shall conformto the specification requirements in Tab
19、le 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-ics, the ultimate consumer of article
20、s made from these fabricsmay find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.7Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, B
21、ldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.8The development of a standard method has been referred to SubcommitteeD13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 f
22、or negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 forvery severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.CharacteristicRequirementsSectionKnitted WovenBreaking strength (load) (CRT) . 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1
23、Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) . 7.2Yarn slippage, 6-mm (14-in.) separation . 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.3Tongue tear strength . 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.4Dimensional Change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 1 % max, pre-finished fabrics 7.5.1After five launderings (see 7.5.2.2 if shrinka
24、ge exceeds 3 %) 3 % max 2 % max, post-finished fabrics 7.5.2After three dry cleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.3Growth 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.4Colorfastness:Burnt Gas Fumes2 Cycles:Shade change, original fabric Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.6.1Shade change after 1 laundering or 1 dry cleaning Class 4Amin Class
25、4AminLaundering:Shade changeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminClass 4AminClass 3Bmin7.6.2Dry cleaning:Shade change Class 4Amin Class 4Amin 7.6.3Crocking:DryWetClass 4CminClass 3CminClass 4CminClass 3Cmin7.6.4Perspiration:Shade ChangeStainingClass 4AminClass 3BminClass 4AminClass 3Bmin7.6.5Light (40 AATC
26、C FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4Amin Step 4Amin 7.6.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.6.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.6.8Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1) DP 3.5Dmin DP 3.5Dmin 7.7Flammability pass pass 7.8AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAAT
27、CC Chromatic Transference Scale.DFor durable-press fabrics only.D41540125.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4154except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the pu
28、rchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties an
29、dtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agree
30、ment to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Method (see Note 1)7.1 Breaking Force (Woven Fabric Only)Determine thedry breaking force, in the stand
31、ard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 5034, using a constantrate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed ofthe pulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 3If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine is permi
32、tted. The crosshead speed should be agreedupon between the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and withthe CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking load testers shouldnot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy
33、 the CRT method shallprevail.7.2 Bursting Strength (Knitted Fabric Only)Determinethe bursting strength, in the standard atmosphere for testingtextiles, as directed in Test Method D 3787 using an approvedtype of CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment orTest Method D 3786 using an approved ty
34、pe of diaphragmbursting tester as agreed upon between the purchaser and thesupplier.NOTE 4There is no overall correlation between the results obtainedwith the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and thediaphragm bursting tester. Consequently, these two bursting testers cannotbe used inte
35、rchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D 3786 shallprevail.NOTE 5The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machineequipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59.The test methods are accord
36、ingly not recommended for acceptance testingunless preceded by an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of thepurchaser and the laboratory of the supplier using randomized replicatespecimens of the material to be evaluated.7.3 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (Woven Fabric Only)Determine the resistance
37、to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D 434.NOTE 6The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with low yarn counts (see 5.2).7.4 Tear Strength (Woven Fabric Only)Determine the tearstrength as directed in Test Method D 1424.NOTE 7If preferred, u
38、se of Test Method D 2262 is permitted withexisting requirements as given in this specification. There may be nooverall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachine and with the Elmendorf machine. Consequently, these two teartesters should not be used interchangeably. In case
39、of controversy, TestMethod D 1424 shall prevail.7.5 Dimensional Change:7.5.1 Pressing and Curing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in 4.4 of AATCC Test Method 135.When appropriate press and cure specimen(s) as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier with respect to timecycles
40、, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressureof the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate thedimensional change as directed in Section 6 and 7 of AATCCTest Method 135 (see Note 2).7.5.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s)
41、 using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135.NOTE 8Launderable fabrics are expected to be dry-clean
42、able exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not dry-cleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewith poly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “dry-cleanable” are
43、to bedry-cleaned only.NOTE 9Specimens prepared for 7.5.1 may be used for 7.5.2 and 7.5.3as desired. When this is done, subtract the pressing and curing dimen-sional change from the total dimensional change to obtain that portion dueto laundering or dry cleaning. The dimensional change to pressing an
44、dcuring is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not to beadded to the dimensional change due to laundering or dry cleaning of thefabric (see 6.1).7.5.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the supplier.7.5.2.2 When the dimensional change after five
45、launderingsexceeds 3%, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D 2594 using a 2.2-N(0.5-lbf) load. If the difference between the percent stretch ofthe laundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to launder-ing does not exceed 3% shrinkage, then the fa
46、bric meets thespecification requirements in Table 1.7.5.3 Dry CleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings in accordance with 10.1.1through 10.1.4 of Test Methods D 2724 (see Note 8).7.5.4 Growth (Knitted Fabric Only)Determine the growthof the fabric as directed in Test M
47、ethods D 2594.7.6 Colorfastness:7.6.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one dry cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 10Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in7.5.2.1. Dry-cleaning conditions shall
48、 be the same as those used in 7.5.3.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestD4154013Method 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (see Note 7).7.6.3 Dry CleaningDetermine colorfastness to dry clean-ing as d
49、irected in AATCC Test Method 132 (see Note 8).7.6.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shadesand AATCC Test Method 116 for prints, or as agreed uponbetween the purchaser and the supplier.7.6.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.6.6 LightDetermine colorfastness to light as directed inAATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 11There are distinct differences in spectral distribution be-tween the various types of machines listed in AATCC Test
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