1、Designation: D4155 01 (Reapproved 2012)Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Woven Sportswear, Shorts, Slacks, andSuiting Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4155; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in
2、 the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers woven fabricscomprised of any textile fiber o
3、r mixture of fibers used inwomens and girls sportswear, or suitings.1.2 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.3 This performance specification is not applicable towoven fabrics used for interlinings, jeans, and dun
4、garees.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Refer
5、enced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam3D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) ApparatusD2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of
6、Fabrics by theTongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)3D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel Fabr
7、icsD5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2 AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to CrockingAATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic and Laund
8、ering,Commercial Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking; Rotary Vertical, Crockme-ter Method119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): ScreenWire Method124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after RepeatedHome Laundering132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic
9、Home Launderingof Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II
10、-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standard:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other te
11、stmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved July 1, 2012. Published Aug
12、ust 2012. Originallyapproved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2007 D4155 01(2007). DOI:10.1520/D4155-01R12.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to
13、 the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referencedon www.astm.org.4Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.
14、5Available from U.S. Government Printing Office Superintendent of Documents,732 N. Capitol St., NW, Mail Stop: SDE, Washington, DC 20401, http:/www.access.gpo.gov.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyr
15、ight ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.1.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specifica-tion, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methodsand to Terminology D123.3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common
16、terms aresuitable for this specification.4. Specifications Requirements4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for womens and girlssportswear and suitings shall conform to the specificationrequirements in Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, fab
17、rics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aestheticsthe ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics mayfind acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of therequirements
18、in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of therequirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutualagreement between the purchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4155except for the following characteri
19、stic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular
20、 style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification
21、or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Brea
22、king ForceDetermine the dry breaking force asdirected in Test Method D5034, using a constant rate oftraverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of thepulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class for colorfastness and durable press (DP) ratin
23、g is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, orwrinkle to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.Characteristics Requirements SectionBreaking strength (load) CRTA7.1Worsted and cotton count yarns:Warp 155 N (35 lbf) minFilling 133 N (30
24、lbf) minWoolen run yarns, each direction 111 N (25 lbf) minYarn slippage, 6.3-mm (14-in.) separation at 89 N (20 lbf) min 7.2Tongue tear strength 8.9 N (2.0 lbf) min 7.3Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1)DP3.5Bmin 7.4Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes1 cycle 7.5.1Shade change, original fabric Class 4CminShad
25、e change, after one laundering or one drycleaning Class 4CminLaundering:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.2Staining Class 3DminDrycleaning:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.3Perspiration:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.4Staining Class 3DminLight (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc)AStep 4Cmin 7.5.5Crocking:Dry Class 4Emin
26、7.5.6Wet Class 3EminFrosting:Shade change Class 4Cmin 7.5.7Chlorine Bleach Class 4C,min 7.5.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4C,min 7.5.9Dimensional change: 7.6Pressing and finishing 2 % max 7.6.1Laundering 3 % max 7.6.2Drycleaning 2 % max 7.6.3Flammability pass 7.7AMore than one method can be used to mea
27、sure these properties. These methods cannot be used interchangeably, since there may be no overall correlation betweenthem (see Note 2, Note 4, and Note 6).BFor durable press fabrics only.CAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.DAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.EAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D4155 01 (
28、2012)2NOTE 2If preferred, the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and theCRE machine, consequently, t
29、hese two breaking load testers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine willprevail.7.2 Resistance to Yarn SlippageDetermine the resistanceto yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D434 is being established, andit may not be sui
30、table for fabrics with low yarn counts in terms of ends andpicks per inch (see 5.2).7.3 Tear StrengthDetermine the tear strength as directedin Test Method D1424.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of Test Methods D2261 and D2262 ispermitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There maybe n
31、o overall correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tearmachines and the Elmendorf machine. Consequently these tear testerscannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test MethodD1424 shall prevail.7.4 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Te
32、st Method 124 after laundering usingthe wash-and-wear cycle or the normal cycle as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier as specified in 7.6.2 forwashable fabrics or after drycleaning as specified in 7.6.3 fordrycleanable fabrics (see Note 5).7.4.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable
33、 press”garments determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asspecified in Section 10.2.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.4.1.1 The fabric smoothness durable press (DP) rating ofsuch fabrics, and the DP rating of drycleaned fabrics, shallhave decreased no more than12 DP rating from that of thefabric befo
34、re it is laundered or drycleaned.7.5 Colorfastness:7.5.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes (on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning) as directed inAATCC Test Method 23 after1 cycle.7.5.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as dire
35、cted in AATCC Test Method 61. The test conditionsshall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier (see Note5).7.5.3 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of th
36、e fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, as would be the case withpoly(vinyl chloride) fiber. Goods labeled “drycleanable” are to be dry-cleaned only.7.5.4 Perspirati
37、onDetermine the colorfastness to perspi-ration as directed in AATCC Test Method 15.7.5.5 LightDetermine the colorfastness to light as di-rected in AATCC Test Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed in AATCC Test Method 16, w
38、ith nooverall correlations between them. Consequently, these machines cannotbe used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with theWater Cooled Xenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.5.6 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to crocking asdirected inAATCC Test Method 8
39、 for solid shades andAATCCTest Method 116 for prints, or as agreed between the purchaserand the seller.7.5.7 FrostingDetermine the colorfastness to flat abrasionas directed in AATCC Test Method 119.7.5.8 Colorfastness to Chlorine BleachDetermine color-fastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Meth
40、od 16.7.5.9 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine BleachDeterminecolorfastness to light as directed in AATCC Test Method 16.7.6 Dimensional Change:7.6.1 Pressing and Finishing During ManufacturingMarkspecimen(s) as directed in Section 5.4 of AATCC TestMethod 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon
41、bythe purchaser and the supplier with respect to time cycles,temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of thepress head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimen-sional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC TestMethod 135 (see Note 2).7.6.1.1 If no agreement has been made
42、between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press and using a cycle as directed in 10.1.4.1 through10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.7.6.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after five launderings as directed in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Te
43、st Method 135 or as agreed betweenthe purchaser and the supplier (see Note 5 and Note 7).7.6.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall beas specified by the supplier.NOTE 7Specimens prepared for 7.6.1 may be used for 7.6.2 and 7.6.3as desired. When this is done, the dimensional change due t
44、o launderingor drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change topressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measure
45、ment after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.6.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after three drycleanings as directed in Section 10.1.1thru 10.1.5 of Test Methods D2724 or as agreed between thepurchaser and the supplier.7.7 FlammabilityTh
46、e flammability requirements shall beagreed upon by the purchaser and the supplier, provided theymeet or exceed those of Part 1610 of the Flammable FabricsAct Regulations.8. Keywords8.1 fabric; pants; performance; specification; suitingD4155 01 (2012)3ASTM International takes no position respecting t
47、he validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard
48、is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International H
49、eadquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddr
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