1、Designation: D4156 01 (Reapproved 2008)D4156 14Standard Performance Specification forWomens and Girls Knitted Sportswear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4156; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revis
2、ion, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fi
3、bers, used in womensand girls sportswear.1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where each fabric direction is pertinent.1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibilityof
4、 the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatorylimitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low
5、 PowerD2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel FabricsD3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile FabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD7022 Terminology Relating to
6、Apparel2.2 AATCC Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration1616.3 Colorfastness to LightLight: Xenon-Arc23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering, Commercial: Laundering: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to
7、 Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method124 1978Smoothness Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated Home LaunderingsLaundering132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics of Fabric after HomeLaundering172 Co
8、lorfastness to Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home LaunderingEvaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color ChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference ScaleA G
9、lossary of AATCC Standard Terminology2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR, Chapter IIConsumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter DFlammable Fabrics Act Regulations.1 This peformance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D
10、13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008Feb. 1, 2014. Published October 2008March 2014. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 20012008 asD4156 01.D4156 01(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4156-01R08.10.1520/D4156-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, ww
11、w.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM website.3 Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Par
12、k, NC 27709, http:/www.aatcc.org.4 Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Bec
13、auseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100
14、Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States12.4 Military Standard:5MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other tes
15、t methods. Thecurrent editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 sheer, na fabric that is transparently thin or diaphanous.3.1.1.1 DiscussionThere is no clear distinction between sheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the seller should agree i
16、n advance asto which category a fabric is to be classified.3.1 For all terminology related to Apparel, see Terminology D7022.3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard: sheer.3.2 For definitions of all other textile terms used in this performance specification, refer to the individual A
17、STM and AATCCtest methods and to see Terminology D123.3.3 For terms relating to chemical or colorfastness testing, refer to specific AATCC test methods, or the Glossary of AATCCStandard Terminology, or both.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for womens and girls sport
18、swear shall conform to the specification requirements in Table1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.5.2 It is recognized that fo
19、r purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may findacceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed inTable 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser an
20、d the seller.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D4156 exceptfor the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, thereq
21、uirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varyingperformance parameters for any particular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of
22、 the specifiedtest methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each
23、roll or piece in the lot sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric andat least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage,7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Bursting StrengthDetermine the bursting strength as directed in Test Methods D3786 or D3787 as agreed between thepurchaser and the se
24、ller.NOTE 2Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressure from the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric when usingthe diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according to the manufacturers instruction before use. Since there is no overall correlation b
25、etweenthe results obtained with the CRT machine equipped with a bursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two bursting testers cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, Test Method D3786 shall prevail.NOTE 3The precision of the ball burst method using the CRT machine
26、equipped with a bursting attachment and the precision of the diaphragmbursting tester method are being established by Subcommittee D13.59. The methods are accordingly not recommended for acceptance testing unless5 Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Av
27、e., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.D4156 142preceded by an interlaboratory test in the laboratory of the purchaser and the laboratory of the seller using randomized replicate specimens of the typeof material to be evaluated.7.2 Dimensional Change:7.2.1 Pressing and Finishing During Garment
28、 ManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in Section 4.5 of AATCCMethod 135. Press and finish specimen(s) as agreed upon by the purchaser and the seller with respect to time cycles, temperature,steam, vacuum, and mechanical pressure of the press head. Measure the specimen(s) and calculate the dimen
29、sional change asdirected in Sections 6 and 7 of AATCC Method 135 (see Note 4).7.2.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the purchaser and the seller, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bed steam pressaccording to the cycle in 10.1.4 through 10.1.4.5 of Test Methods D2724.NOTE 4No standard method
30、 is available for reproducing on a laboratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments used in themanufacture of sportswear from knitted fabrics.67.2.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensional change after five launderings or as agreed between the purchaser andthe seller a
31、s directed in the applicable procedure in AATCC Method 135 (see Note 5 and Note 6).7.2.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedure shall be as specified by the seller.6 The development of a standard method has been referred to Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.TABLE 1 Specificatio
32、n RequirementsNOTE 1ClassGrade in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color changeor color transfer.Characteristic Requirements SectionSheer Fabric Nonsheer FabricsBursting strength (ball burst)A 133 N (30 lbf), min 222
33、N (50 lbf), min 7.1Dimensional change:Pressing and finishing 2 % max 2 % max 7.2.1Laundering (see 7.2.2.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.3Colorfastness:Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1Shade change, original Class 4B min Class 4B minShade change, original Grade 4B min Grade 4B
34、minShade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Class 4B min Class 4B minShade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Grade 4B min Grade 4B minLaundering:E 7.3.2Shade changeStainingClass 4B minClass 3C minClass 4B minClass 3C minShade changeStainingGrade 4B minGrade 3C minGrade 4B minGrade
35、 3C minDrycleaning: 7.3.3Shade change Class 4B min Class 4B minShade change Grade 4B min Grade 4B minCrocking:E 7.3.4DryWetClass 4D minClass 3D minClass 4D minClass 3D minDryWetGrade 4D minGrade 3D minGrade 4D minGrade 3D minPerspiration 7.3.5Perspiration:E 7.3.5Shade changeStainingClass 4B minClass
36、 3C minClass 4B minClass 3C minShade changeStainingGrade 4B minGrade 3C minGrade 4B minGrade 3C minLight (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4B min Step 4B min 7.3.6Light (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4B min Grade 4B min 7.3.6Chlorine Bleach Class 4B , min Class 4B , min 7.3.7Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach G
37、rade 4B , min Grade 4B , min 7.3.7Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4B , min Class 4B , min 7.3.8Powdered Non-chlorine Bleach Grade 4B , min Grade 4B , min 7.3.8Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.4Fabric smoothness appearance (see 7.4.1) SA 3.5 min SA 3.5 min 7.4Flammability pass pass 7
38、.5A There is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since theremay be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and and Note 83).B AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.C AATCC Gray Scale
39、 for Staining.D AATCC AATCC 9-Step Chromatic Transference Scale.E See Note 8.D4156 1437.2.2.2 When the dimensional change after five launderings exceeds 3 %, determine the stretch of the fabric after fivelaunderings as directed in Test Methods D2594 using 2.2-N (0.5-lbf) load. If the difference betw
40、een the percent stretch of thelaundered fabric and the percent shrinkage due to laundering does not exceed 3 % shrinkage then the fabric meets the specificationrequirement in Table 1.7.2.3 DrycleaningDetermine the maximum dimensional change after three drycleanings or as agreed between the purchaser
41、and the seller in accordance with Sections 10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test Methods D2724 (Notes 5 and 6 ).NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable except where all or part of the fabric is not drycleanable and is so labeled. For example,the fabric could contain a functional finish sol
42、uble in the solvent, or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the case with poly(vinylchloride) fiber. “Drycleanable” goods are to be drycleaned only.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.2.1 may be used for 7.2.2 and 7.2.3 as desired. When this is done the dimensional change due to la
43、undering ordrycleaning is calculated using Eq 1.The dimensional change to pressing and finishing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is not additiveto the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of the fabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.1).Percent Dimensional C
44、hange5100 D12D 2!/D2 (1)where:D1 = measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2 = measurement after pressing and finishing.7.3 Colorfastness:7.3.1 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness to burnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one laundering or onedrycleaning as directed in AATC
45、C Method 23 after 2 cycles.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.2.1. Drycleaning conditions shall be the same as those used in 7.2.3.7.3.2 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to laundering as directed in the applicable procedure ofAATCC Method 61.Thetest conditions shall
46、 be as specified by the seller (see Note 6).NOTE 8It has been reported that the results for staining, obtained by standard AATCC Test Methods, on fabrics dyed to dark shades that contain acombination of polyester and spandex, or their blends, may not show the full staining propensity of such fabrics
47、 in consumer use. It is, therefore,recommended that the staining results obtained by these tests not be used for acceptance testing of such fabrics.7.3.3 DrycleaningDetermine colorfastness to drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 132 (see Note 6).7.3.4 CrockingDetermine colorfastness to dry and we
48、t crocking as directed inAATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCCMethod 116 for prints or as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.seller (see Note 8).7.3.5 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspiration as directed in AATCC Method 15. Method 15 (see Note 8).7.3.6 LightDetermine colorfast
49、ness to light as directed in AATCC Method 16.Method 16.3 Option 3.NOTE 8There are distinct differences in spectral distribution between the various types of machines listed in AATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be used interchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained with the Water CooledXenon Arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.7.3.7 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite BleachDetermine colorfastness to light as directed in AATCCMethod 16. The test con
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