1、Designation: D 4231 01e1Standard Practice forEvaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and SportsShirts1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last
2、 revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.e1NOTEAdjunct references were corrected editorially in July 2006.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific charac-t
3、eristics of importance in launderable woven dress shirts andsport shirts.1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may beevaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to bea standard of performance.1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement betweenthe purchaser and s
4、upplier to establish purchasing specifica-tions.1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluationof woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned orhand-washed.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Se
5、ams of WovenFabrics3D 1776 Practice for Conditioning Textiles for TestingD 3136 Terminology Relating to Labels for Textile andLeather Products Other Than Textile Floor Coverings andUpholsteryD 3477 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysWoven Dress Shirt FabricsD 3938 Guide for Determining or Co
6、nfirming Care Instruc-tions for Apparel and Other Textile Consumer ProductsD 4154 Performance Specification for Mens and BoysKnitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics2.2 AATCC Test Methods:88B Appearance of Seams in Wash and Wear Items AfterHome Laundering4143 Appearance of Apparel and Ot
7、her Textile End ProductsAfter Repeated Home Launderings4150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderingof Garments4172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering4188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering4Evaluation Procedure 14Evaluation Procedure 24Evaluation Proced
8、ure 84Standardization of Home Laundry Test Conditions42.3 ASTM Adjuncts:5Shirt Components- 15 Photographs3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsFor definitions of textile terms used in thispractice, refer to the individual ASTM Standards and AATCCTest Methods and to Terminology D 123.3.2 Definitions of Terms
9、Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 dress shirt, na shirt designed to be worn with a tieand jacket and made with a specific collar size or numericaldesignation.3.2.1.1 DiscussionFor mens dress shirts, an additionalsize designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.3.2.2 sport shirt, na shirt des
10、igned to be worn eitherinformally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical,numerical, or alphanumerical size designator.4. Significance and Use4.1 This practice may be used to evaluate pertinent perfor-mance characteristics of mens and boys launderable wovendress shirts and sport shirts.1Thi
11、s practice is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles andis the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published August 2001. Originallypublished as D 4231 89. Discontinued April 1998 and reinstated as D 4231 00.2For referenced
12、ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued 1999, see 1998 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4AATCC
13、Technical Manual, available from the American Association of TextileChemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Photographic standards for evaluating shirt components are available fromASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.1Copyright ASTM Interna
14、tional, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptancecriteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agree-ment between purchaser and supplier.4.3 The uses and significance of specific properties
15、 arediscussed in the appropriate test methods and performancespecifications.5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens5.1 Primary Sampling UnitFor the test methods used inthis practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to bethe primary sampling unit.5.2 Laboratory Sampling UnitFor th
16、e test methods usedin this practice, take a minimum of two garments from eachprimary sampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sampleand the test specimens.6. Characteristics and Conditions6.1 CharacteristicsThe characteristics to be evaluatedand the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas s
17、hall be setby mutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.6.2 Fabric Performance CharacteristicsEvaluate the se-lected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed inPerformance Specification D 3477 or Performance Specifica-tion D 4154 as appropriate.6.3 Shirt Performance Characterist
18、ics Prior to Laundering.6.3.1 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed inTest Method D 1683.6.3.2 Seam PuckerExamine shirt(s) for seam pucker us-ing AATCC Method 88B and photographs described in Fig. 1,Fig. 2, and Fig. 3 (See ).6.3.3 Shade DifferenceExamine shirts(s) for shade differ-ence from
19、part to part as directed in AATCC EvaluationProcedure 1.6.3.4 Shirt AppearanceEvaluate the shirts for appearanceof fabric and all component parts such as, but not limited to,seams, pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket) (see Fig.4). Specimens shall be mounted as directed in AATCC Method14
20、3, using appropriate photographic standards as described inFig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 35and AATCC 88B. Acceptableperformance requirements shall be as agreed between thepurchaser and supplier.6.3.5 Other DefectsExamine shirt(s) for any other obvi-ous defects.6.3.6 Dimensional ChangeMeasure shirt(s) pri
21、or to laun-dering as directed in Section 7.6.4 Laundering Conditions:6.4.1 Wash ConditionsWash and dry shirts according tothe care label, using the applicable procedure in AATCCMethod 150. Temperatures shall conform to those stated inTable 1 of Terminology D 3136.FIG. 1 Collar 5D423101e12FIG.2Pocket
22、D423101e136.4.1.1 Use any domestically available household laundrydetergent as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.4.1.2 When testing with chlorine bleach is indicated,introduce 1 cup of any liquid chlorine household bleachFIG. 3 PlacketFIG. 4 Diagram of Shirt ComponentsD423101e14containing
23、5.25 % sodium hypochlorite (5 % available chlo-rine) into the washer in the manner directed on the bleachcontainer. When testing with nonchlorine bleach is indicated,introduce any dry nonchlorine household bleach based on a1 % sodium perborate-sodium carbonate solution having a pHof 10.7 to 11.3 int
24、o the washer in the amount and mannerdirected on the bleach container.6.4.2 Ironing ConditionsWhen ironing is to be done, ironthe shirt(s) as directed in Section 7.4.3 ofAATCC Method 150,except that ironing conditions shall be in accordance with thecare label.6.5 Shirt Performance Characteristics Af
25、ter HomeLaundering6.5.1 Dimensional ChangeEvaluate the dimensionalchanges after five launderings, or the number agreed uponbetween the purchaser and supplier. Determine the dimensionalchange as directed in AATCC Method 150.NOTE 1Anegative dimensional change indicates shrinkage; a positivedimensional
26、 change indicates growth.NOTE 2Garment manufacturing dynamics can have an influence ondimensional stability of the finished product, therefore the fabric dimen-sional stability cannot be used exclusively.6.5.2 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed inTest Method D 1683.6.5.3 Shade DifferenceD
27、etermine shade differences frompart to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.6.5.4 Shirt AppearanceEvaluate the shirt(s) for appear-ance of fabric and all component parts, such as, but not limitedto, seams, pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket).Specimens shall be mounted as di
28、rected in AATCC Method143, using appropriate photographic standards as described inFigs. 1-3 and AATCC 88B. Acceptable performance require-ments shall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.5.5 Other DefectsExamine shirts for any other obviousdefects.6.6 Test Methods6.6.1 ColorfastnessWhe
29、n testing with bleach is indicated,test according to the directions in AATCC Method 172 fornon-chlorine bleach, or AATCC Method180 for chlorinebleach, as appropriate.7. Method for Measuring Shirts7.1 ScopeThis method specifies how to measure thesignificant dimensions of shirts for use in determining
30、 dimen-sional change after refurbishing.7.2 Significance and UseStandard methods of measuringshirts are required before reproducible results can be obtainedfor changes in dimensions after laundering.7.3 Procedure:7.3.1 Expose the shirt(s) to standard conditions as specifiedin Practice D 1776 for at
31、least 4 h, or longer, as agreed betweenthe purchaser and supplier.7.3.2 Lay the shirt(s) without tension, on a flat surface. Thefabric shall be smooth and free of wrinkles and creases.7.3.2.1 Mark the dimension to be measured with a suitablemarking device.7.3.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon between t
32、he purchaserand supplier, make measurements at the following locations asshown in Fig. 5.7.3.3.1 Chest WidthWith shirt closed, measure acrossfront of shirt 25 mm (1 in.) below functional armhole seam (Ato A, Fig. 5). Take the measurement from edge to edge, notseam to seam, making sure top and bottom
33、 are smooth and freeof wrinkles and creases, and record.NOTE 3For the total chest girth, double the chest width measurement.7.3.3.2 Waist widthWith shirt closed, measure acrossfront of shirt at narrowest point (B to B, Fig. 5). Takemeasurement from edge to edge, not seam to seam, and record.NOTE 4Fo
34、r the total waist girth, double the waist width measurement.7.3.3.3 Body LengthWith shirt closed, turn shirt with backfacing up and lay flat. Measure center back from bottom ofcollar band to bottom of hem edge ( to C, Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.4 Sleeve LengthWith shirt closed, turn shirt withback fac
35、ing up and lay flat. Measure a sleeve from bottom ofcollar band at center of collar band to bottom edge of cuff (Dto D, Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.5 Collar LengthWith shirt opened, lay collar flatwith label down, measure from center of button to far end ofbuttonhole opening or far end of loop (E to E,
36、 Fig. 5), andrecord. When shirt has neither buttonhole nor loop, measurefrom collar V to collar V (F to F, Fig. 5) and record.7.4 Precision and Bias:7.4.1 PrecisionIn order to establish the precision and biasof this practice, a sufficient number of garments manufacturedto tight tolerances are requir
37、ed. In spite of repeated efforts toacquire these garments, the subcommittee has been unsuccess-ful. Once the garments are acquired, an interlaboratory test willbe conducted.7.4.2 BiasThe method in this practice for measuringshirts has no known bias and may be used as a referee method.8. Report8.1 St
38、ate that the specimens were tested as directed inPractice D 4231.8.2 Report the following information:8.2.1 Objective of test,8.2.2 Description and identification of shirt(s),8.2.3 Number of shirts tested,8.2.4 List of performance characteristics evaluated and theresults of each, and8.2.5 Conclusion
39、s, if appropriate.9. Keywords9.1 dress shirt; shirt; sport shirtTABLE 1 Water Temperature for Home LaunderingCold Up to 29 C (Up to 85F)Warm 32 to 43 C (90 to 110 F)Hot 54 to 66 C (130 to 150 F)D423101e15ASTM International takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in co
40、nnection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the respo
41、nsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful
42、 consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International,
43、100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).FIG. 5 Diagram for Marking and Measurement Locations (See 7.3)D423101e16
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