1、Designation: D4231 01 (Reapproved 2008)D4231 14Standard Practice forEvaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and SportsShirts1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4231; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revi
2、sion, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This practice covers the evaluation of specific characteristics of importance in launderable woven d
3、ress shirts and sportshirts.1.2 Any launderable woven dress shirt or sport shirt may be evaluated using this practice, but it shall not be construed to bea standard of performance.1.3 This practice may be used by mutual agreement between the purchaser and supplier to establish purchasing specificati
4、ons.1.4 This practice is not intended to be used in the evaluation of woven dress shirts or sport shirts when drycleaned orhand-washed.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD1683 Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel FabricsD1776 Practice fo
5、r Conditioning and Testing TextilesD3136 Terminology Relating to Care Labeling for Apparel, Textile, Home Furnishing, and Leather ProductsD3477 Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Woven Dress Shirt Fabrics (Withdrawn 2005)3D4154 Performance Specification for Mens and Boys Knitted and Woven B
6、eachwear and Sports Shirt FabricsD7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:88B AppearanceSmoothness of Seams in Wash and Wear Items After Fabrics After Repeated Home Laundering4143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products After Repeated Home Launderings4150 Dimensional
7、Changes in Automatic of Garments after Home Laundering of Garments4172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering4188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering4Evaluation Procedure 14Evaluation Procedure 24Evaluation Procedure 84Monograph M6 Standa
8、rdization of Home Laundry Test Conditions42.3 ASTM Adjuncts:5Shirt Components- 15 Photographs3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsFor definitions of textile terms used in this practice, refer to the individual ASTM Standards and Standards,AATCC Test Methods and to Methods, Terminology D123 and Terminology r
9、elated to Apparel D7022.1 This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008Feb. 1, 2014. Published October 2008March 2014. Originally approved in 1989. Last previous editi
10、on approved in 20012008 asD4231 01.D4231 01(2008). DOI: 10.1520/D4231-01R08.10.1520/D4231-14.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document S
11、ummary page on the ASTM website.3 The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.4 AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709,http:/www.aatcc.org.5 Photog
12、raphic standards for evaluating shirt components are available from ASTM International Headquarters. Order Adjunct NO. : ADJD4231.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. B
13、ecauseit may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 10
14、0 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States13.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:3.2.1 dress shirt, na shirt designed to be worn with a tie and jacket and made with a specific collar size or numericaldesignation.3.2.1.1 DiscussionFor mens dress shi
15、rts, an additional size designation may be used to identify the sleeve length.3.2.2 sport shirt, na shirt designed to be worn either informally or with a jacket, and which uses an alphabetical, numerical,or alphanumerical size designator.4. Significance and Use4.1 This practice may be used to evalua
16、te pertinent performance characteristics of mens and boys launderable woven dressshirts and sport shirts.4.2 The characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigned to these areas shall be set by mutual agreementbetween purchaser and supplier.4.3 The uses and significance of specifi
17、c properties are discussed in the appropriate test methods and performance specifications.5. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens5.1 Primary Sampling UnitFor the test methods used in this practice, consider boxes or other shipping containers to be theprimary sampling unit.5.2 Laboratory Samp
18、ling UnitFor the test methods used in this practice, take a minimum of two garments from each primarysampling unit to serve as both the laboratory sample and the test specimens.6. Characteristics and Conditions6.1 CharacteristicsThe characteristics to be evaluated and the acceptance criteria assigne
19、d to these areas shall be set bymutual agreement between purchaser and supplier.6.2 Fabric Performance CharacteristicsEvaluate the selected characteristics of the shirt fabric by methods directed inPerformance Specification D3477 or Performance Specification D4154 as appropriate.6.3 Shirt Performanc
20、e Characteristics Prior to Laundering.6.3.1 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed in Test Method D1683.6.3.2 Seam PuckerExamine shirt(s) for seam pucker using AATCC Method 88B and photographs described in Fig. 1, Fig. 2,and Fig. 3 (See ).ADJD4231)5.6.3.3 Shade DifferenceExamine shirts(s) for
21、 shade difference from part to part as directed in AATCC Evaluation Procedure1.6.3.4 Shirt AppearanceEvaluate the shirts for appearance of fabric and all component parts such as, but not limited to, seams,pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket) (see Fig. 4). Specimens shall be mounted as d
22、irected inAATCC Method 143, usingappropriate photographic standards as described in Fig. 1, Fig. 2, and Fig. 35 and AATCC 88B. Acceptable performancerequirements shall be as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.3.5 Other DefectsExamine shirt(s) for any other obvious defects.6.3.6 Dimensional
23、ChangeMeasure shirt(s) prior to laundering as directed in Section 7.6.4 Laundering Conditions:6.4.1 Wash ConditionsWash and dry shirts according to the care label, using the applicable procedure inAATCC Method 150.Temperatures shall conform to those stated in Table 1 of Terminology D3136.6.4.1.1 Use
24、 any domestically available household laundry detergent as agreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.4.1.2 When testing with chlorine bleach is indicated, introduce 1 cup of any liquid chlorine household bleach containing5.25 % sodium hypochlorite (5 % available chlorine) into the washer in the ma
25、nner directed on the bleach container. When testingwith nonchlorine bleach is indicated, introduce any dry nonchlorine household bleach based on a 1 % sodium perborate-sodiumcarbonate solution having a pH of 10.7 to 11.3 into the washer in the amount and manner directed on the bleach container.6.4.2
26、 Ironing ConditionsWhen ironing is to be done, iron the shirt(s) as directed in Section 7.4.3 of AATCC Method 150,except that ironing conditions shall be in accordance with the care label.6.5 Shirt Performance Characteristics After Home Laundering6.5.1 Dimensional ChangeEvaluate the dimensional chan
27、ges after five launderings, or the number agreed upon between thepurchaser and supplier. Determine the dimensional change as directed in AATCC Method 150.NOTE 1A negative dimensional change indicates shrinkage; a positive dimensional change indicates growth.NOTE 2Garment manufacturing dynamics can h
28、ave an influence on dimensional stability of the finished product, therefore the fabric dimensionalstability cannot be used exclusively.D4231 1426.5.2 Seam FailureEvaluate seam failure as directed in Test Method D1683.6.5.3 Shade DifferenceDetermine shade differences from part to part as directed in
29、 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1.6.5.4 Shirt AppearanceEvaluate the shirt(s) for appearance of fabric and all component parts, such as, but not limited to,seams, pockets, collars, and top centers (front placket). Specimens shall be mounted as directed in AATCC Method 143, usingappropriate photographic
30、standards as described in Figs. 1-3 and AATCC 88B. Acceptable performance requirements shall be asagreed between the purchaser and supplier.6.5.5 Other DefectsExamine shirts for any other obvious defects.6.6 Test Methods6.6.1 ColorfastnessWhen testing with bleach is indicated, test according to the
31、directions in AATCC Method 172 forpowdered non-chlorine bleach, or AATCC Method180 for chlorine sodium hypochlorite bleach, as appropriate.7. Method for Measuring Shirts7.1 ScopeThis method specifies how to measure the significant dimensions of shirts for use in determining dimensionalchange after r
32、efurbishing.7.2 Significance and UseStandard methods of measuring shirts are required before reproducible results can be obtained forchanges in dimensions after laundering.7.3 Procedure:7.3.1 Expose the shirt(s) to standard conditions as specified in Practice D1776 for at least 4 h, or longer, as ag
33、reed between thepurchaser and supplier.7.3.2 Lay the shirt(s) without tension, on a flat surface. The fabric shall be smooth and free of wrinkles and creases.7.3.2.1 Mark the dimension to be measured with a suitable marking device.7.3.3 Unless otherwise agreed upon between the purchaser and supplier
34、, make measurements at the following locations asshown in Fig. 5.FIG. 1 Collar 5D4231 143FIG. 2 PocketD42311447.3.3.1 Chest WidthWith shirt closed, measure across front of shirt 25 mm (1 in.) below functional armhole seam (A to A,Fig. 5). Take the measurement from edge to edge, not seam to seam, mak
35、ing sure top and bottom are smooth and free of wrinklesand creases, and record.FIG. 3 PlacketFIG. 4 Diagram of Shirt ComponentsD4231 145NOTE 3For the total chest girth, double the chest width measurement.7.3.3.2 Waist widthWith shirt closed, measure across front of shirt at narrowest point (B to B,
36、Fig. 5). Take measurement fromedge to edge, not seam to seam, and record.NOTE 4For the total waist girth, double the waist width measurement.7.3.3.3 Body LengthWith shirt closed, turn shirt with back facing up and lay flat. Measure center back from bottom of collarband to bottom of hem edge ( to C,
37、Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.4 Sleeve LengthWith shirt closed, turn shirt with back facing up and lay flat. Measure a sleeve from bottom of collarband at center of collar band to bottom edge of cuff (D to D, Fig. 5) and record.7.3.3.5 Collar LengthWith shirt opened, lay collar flat with label down, meas
38、ure from center of button to far end of buttonholeopening or far end of loop (E to E, Fig. 5), and record. When shirt has neither buttonhole nor loop, measure from collar V to collarV (F to F, Fig. 5) and record.7.4 Precision and Bias:7.4.1 PrecisionIn order to establish the precision and bias of th
39、is practice, a sufficient number of garments manufactured totight tolerances are required. In spite of repeated efforts to acquire these garments, the subcommittee has been unsuccessful. Oncethe garments are acquired, an interlaboratory test will be conducted.7.4.2 BiasThe method in this practice fo
40、r measuring shirts has no known bias and may be used as a referee method.8. Report8.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Practice D4231.8.2 Report the following information:8.2.1 Objective of test,8.2.2 Description and identification of shirt(s),8.2.3 Number of shirts tested,8.2.4 L
41、ist of performance characteristics evaluated and the results of each, and8.2.5 Conclusions, if appropriate.9. Keywords9.1 dress shirt; shirt; sport shirtTABLE 1 Water Temperature for Home LaunderingCold Up to 29 C (Up to 85F)Warm 32 to 43 C (90 to 110 F)Hot 54 to 66 C (130 to 150 F)D4231 146ASTM Int
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43、y their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn.Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand sho
44、uld be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Sta
45、ndards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the ASTM website (www.astm.org/COPYRIGHT/).FIG. 5 Diagram for Marking and Measurement Locations (See 7.3)D4231 147
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