1、Designation: D 4232 01Standard Performance Specification forMens and Womens Dress and Vocational Career ApparelFabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4232; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the
2、year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This specification covers the performance requirementsfor woven fabrics for mens and womens dress and vocatio
3、nalcareer apparel.1.2 This specification is not applicable to career apparelfabrics 3.1.1.2that do not patently fit the categories in 3.1.1.1and 3.1.2. Performance specifications for such fabrics shouldbe as agreed to between the purchaser and the seller. Thisspecification is not applicable to overc
4、oat or topcoat uniformfabrics.1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and widthdirections for those properties where fabric direction is perti-nent.1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of thesafety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is theresponsibility of the user of
5、 this standard to establish appro-priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a
6、Standard SeamD 1424 Test Method for Tear Strength of Fabrics byFalling-Pendulum Type (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by theTongue (Single-Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Testing Machine)D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the
7、Tongue (Single-Rip) Method (Constant-Rate-of-Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)3D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and LaminatedApparel FabricsD 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimensfor TextilesD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)2.2
8、AATCC Test Methods:48 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic; and Laundering,Commercial: Accelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMe
9、thod124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After RepeatedHome Launderings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home Launderingof Woven or Knit Fabrics172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home LaunderingEval
10、uation Procedure 1 AATCC Gray Scale for ColorChangeEvaluation Procedure 2 AATCC Gray Scale for StainingEvaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic TransferenceScale2.3 Federal Standard:516 CFR, Chapter II-Consumer Product Safety CommissionSubchapter D-Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations2.4 Military Standar
11、d:6MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-spection by AttributesNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this standard give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.1This specification is under
12、the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originallypublished as D 4232 83. Last previous edition D 4232 95a.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website,
13、www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Discontinued; see 1994 Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01.4AATCC Technical Manual, available from the American
14、 Association of TextileChemists and Colorists, P. O. Box 12215 Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.5Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.6Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 1911
15、1-5094, Attn: NPODS.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3. Terminology3.1 Definitions:3.1.1 career apparel, n.garments, usually of a specifieddesign, for on-the-job wear by business or professional em-ployees.3.1.1.1 care
16、er dress apparel, n.career apparel which isnot generally subject to abusive wear and for which appearanceis a more important attribute than durability.( 1) DiscussionFabrics for career dress apparel are usuallycategorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight.The uses of these fabrics vary wi
17、th weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesIHeavy-weight200 g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, suits, blazer, waiter-typejackets, vests, coveralls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, but less than 200g/m2(6.0 oz/yd2)Pants, jackets, dresses, shirtsand blouses, gowns, smoc
18、ks,lab coats, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Tops (shirts, blouses) anddresses3.1.1.2 career vocational apparel, n. career apparelwhich is generally subject to abusive wear and for whichdurability is a more important attribute than appearance.( 1) DiscussionFabrics for career dress ap
19、parel are usuallycategorized as heavyweight, mediumweight, or lightweight.The uses of these fabrics vary with weight as follows:Category Mass (Weight) Typical End-UsesI Heavy-weight270 g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2) andabovePants, jackets, lab coats, cover-alls, etc.IIMedium-weight150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) andabove, b
20、ut less than 270g/m2(8.0 oz/yd2)Shirts, smocks, aprons, labcoats, nurses dresses, etc.IIILight-weightBelow 150 g/m2(4.5 oz/yd2) Light duty shirts, blouses,dresses, smocks, etc.3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in thisspecification, refer to Terminology D 123.3.3 Definitions found in a
21、dictionary of common terms aresuitable for terms used in this specification.4. Specification Requirements4.1 The properties of woven fabrics for mens and womenscareer apparel shall conform to the specification requirementsin Table 1.5. Significance and Use5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purcha
22、ser and thesupplier, woven fabrics intended for this end use should meetall of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.5.2 It is recognized that where more critical requirementscall for higher performance levels, for purposes of fashion oraesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles
23、 made from thesefabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to allof the requirements in Table 1. One or more of the require-ments may be modifed by mutual agreement between thepurchaser and the supplier.5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shallspecify that: “This fa
24、bric meets ASTM Specification D 4232except for the following characteristic(s).”5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reachedbetween the purchaser and the supplier, and in case ofcontroversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended tobe used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate c
25、onsumerdemands dictate varying performance parameters for anyparticular style of fabric.5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.6. Sampling6.1 Lot SampleAs a lot sample for acceptance testing,take a
26、t random the number of rolls as directed in and applicablespecification or other agreement between the purchaser and thesupplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.6.2 Laboratory SampleFrom each roll or piece in the lotsample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabricand at leas
27、t 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.7. Test Methods (See Note 1)7.1 Breaking ForceDetermine the dry breaking force asdirected in Test Method D 5034, using a constant rate oftraverse (CRT) tensile testing machine with the speed of thepulling clamp at 300 6 10 mm (12 6 0.5 in.)/min.NOTE 2If preferred,
28、 the use of a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)testing machine is permitted. The crosshead speed should be as agreedbetween the purchaser and the supplier. There may be no overallcorrelation between the results obtained with the CRT machine and theCRE machine, consequently, these two breaking load te
29、sters cannot beused interchangeably. In case of controversy, the CRT machine willprevail.7.2 Yarn SlippageDetermine the yarn slippage as directedin Test Method D 434.NOTE 3The precision of Test Method D 434 is being established, andit may not be suitable for fabrics with a low number of ends and pic
30、ks perinch.7.3 Tearing StrengthDetermine the tearing strength asdirected in Test Method D 2262.NOTE 4If preferred, the use of either Test Methods D 1424 or D 2261is permitted with existing requirements as given in this performancespecification. There may be no overall correlation between the results
31、obtained with the tongue tear machines and the Elmendorf machine.Consequently, these tear testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case ofcontroversy, Test Method D 2262 shall prevail.7.4 Dimensional Change:7.4.1 Pressing and Finishing During GarmentManufacturingMark specimen(s) as directed in 4.4
32、 ofAATCC Test Method 135. Press and finish specimen(s) asagreed to by the purchaser and the supplier with respect totime, cycles, temperature, steam, vacuum, and mechanicalpressure of the presshead. Measure the specimen(s) and calcu-late the dimensional change as directed in Sections 6 and 7 ofAATCC
33、 Test Method 135.7.4.1.1 If no agreement has been made between the pur-chaser and the supplier, press the specimen(s) using a flat-bedsteam press according to the cycle in 10.1.4.1 through 10.1.4.5of Test Methods D 2724.7.4.2 LaunderingDetermine the maximum dimensionalchange after 5 launderings as d
34、irected in the applicableprocedure in AATCC Test Method 135 or as agreed to by buyerand supplier.D42320127.4.2.1 The wash conditions and drying procedures shall beas specified by the supplier.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected to be drycleanable exceptwhere all or part of the fabric is not drycl
35、eanable and is so labeled. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent. Goods labeled “Dryclean-able” are to be drycleaned only.NOTE 6Specimens prepared for 7.4.1 may be used for 7.4.2 and 7.4.3as desired. When this is
36、 done, the dimensional change due to launderingor drycleaning is calculated using Eq 1. The dimensional change topressing is determined on the fabric as it will reach the user. It is notadditive to the dimensional change to laundering or drycleaning of thefabric as it will reach the consumer (see 6.
37、1).Percent Dimensional Change 5 100 D12 D2!/D2(1)where:D1= measurement after laundering or drycleaning, andD2= measurement after pressing and finishing.7.4.3 Dimensional Change in Drycleaning Determine themaximum dimensional change after three drycleanings asdirected in 10.1.1 through 10.1.5 of Test
38、 Methods D 2724, or asagreed to by the purchaser and the supplier.7.5 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric appearanceas directed in AATCC Test Method 124 after laundering, usingthe conditions agreed to by the purchaser and the supplier, or asspecified in 7.4.2 or 7.4.2.1 for washable fabrics, or af
39、terdrycleaning as specified in7.4.3 for drycleanable fabrics (seeNote 8).7.5.1 For fabrics not intended for use in “durable press”garments, determine the fabric smoothness after pressing asdirected in AATCC Test Method 96.7.5.1.1 The fabric smoothness (D.P.) rating of such fabrics,and the D.P. ratin
40、g of drycleaned fabrics, shall have decreasedno more than12 D.P. rating from that of the fabric before it islaundered or drycleaned.TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsNOTE 1Class in colorfastness and durable press requirements are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change, color tra
41、nsfer, or durablepress rating, and to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or durable press rating.CharacteristicsCareer Dress ApparelFabric RequirementsCareer Vocational ApparelFabric RequirementsSectionBreaking strength (load) (CRT):Category I 267 N (60 lbf), min 312 N (70 lbf), min 7.1
42、Category II 178 N (40 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), minCategory III 156 N (35 lbf), min 178 N (40 lbf), minYarn slippage, 6-mm, (14-in.) separation:Category I 111 N (25 lbf), min 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.2Category II 89 N (20 lbf), min 89 N (20 lbf), minCategory III 67 N (15 lbf), min 67 N (15 lbf), minTon
43、gue tear strength:Category I 20 N (4.5 lbf), min 27 N (6.0 lbf), min 7.3Category II 16 N (3.5 lbf), min 18 N (4.0 lbf), minCategory III 11 N (2.5 lbf), min 11 N (2.5 lbf), minDimensional stability:Pressing and finishing 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 2 % shrink, 0.5 % gain, max 7.4.1After 5 washes 2.5
44、% max 2.5 % max 7.4.2After 3 drycleanings 2.5 % max 2.5 % max 7.4.3Fabric Appearance (see 7.5.1.1):Category I D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 min 7.5Category II D.P., 3.5 min D.P., 3.0 minCategory III D.P., 3.0 min D.P., 3.0 minFlammability pass pass 7.6Colorfastness to:LaunderingShade change Class 4, minAC
45、lass 4, minA7.7.1Staining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBDrycleaningShade change Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.2CrockingDry Class 4, minCClass 4, minC7.7.3Wet Class 3, minCClass 3, minCBurnt gas fumes2 cyclesShade change, original fabric Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.4Shade change, after one laundering o
46、r onedrycleaningClass 4, minAClass 4, minALight (xenon-arc)Outdoor (40 AATCC FU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minA7.7.5Indoor (20 AATCC FU) Step 4, minAStep 4, minAPerspirationShade change Class 4, minAClass 4, minA7.7.6Staining Class 3, minBClass 3, minBOzone2 cycles Class 4AClass 4A7.7.7Chlorine Bleach Cla
47、ss 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.7.8Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4A, min Class 4A, min 7.7.9AAATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.BAATCC Gray Scale for Staining.CAATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.D42320137.6 FlammabilityThe flammability requirements shall beas agreed between the purchaser and the supplier, pro
48、videdthey meet or exceed those of Part 1610 of theFlammableFabrics Act Regulations.7.7 Colorfastness:7.7.1 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC TestMethod 61. The test conditions shall be as specified by thesupplier (Note 7).7.7.2 Dryc
49、leaningDetermine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 132.7.7.3 CrockingDetermine the colorfastness to crocking asdirected in AATCC Test Method 8 for solid shades and AATCCTest Method 116, for prints, or as agreed to by the purchaserand the supplier.7.7.4 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor drycleaning, in accordance with AATCC Test Method 23.NOTE 7Washing conditions shall be the same as those noted in7.4.2.1. Drycleaning conditions sh
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