ASTM D4965-1996(2002) Standard Terminology of Seams and Seam Finishes in Home Sewing《家庭缝纫的时缝和接缝精整的标准术语》.pdf

1、Designation: D 4965 96 (Reapproved 2002)Standard Terminology ofSeams and Seam Finishes Used in Home Sewing1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4965; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last

2、 revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology provides a uniform, easily understoodlanguage for the definitions and descriptions of seams andseam fini

3、shes used in home sewing.1.1.1 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on aconventional sewing machine or by hand.1.1.2 These terms and definitions are not necessarily appli-cable to the apparel manufacturing industry.1.2 This terminology provides a common base for use in thepreparation of edu

4、cational materials and pattern guide sheetsfor home sewing.1.3 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate ifequipment other than the conventional sewing machine isavailable.1.4 For other terms associated with textiles, refer to Termi-nology D 123.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:D

5、 123 Terminology Relating to Textile Materials2D 1353 Terminology of Basic Sewing Machine Stitches23. Terminology3.1 Definitions:back side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatfaces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,right side. Syn. wrong side.)bound seam-finish, ni

6、n home sewing, a seam finish inwhich another material is used to enclose the cut edges ofone or more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seamfinish.) (See Fig. 1.)DISCUSSIONA bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cutseam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitchingthrough a

7、ll thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material usedmay be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knitfabric such as tricot or net. If tape or binding is used, the wider fold sideof the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.Usually each seam allowa

8、nce edge is enclosed individually; however,seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as thearmscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.clean-finish seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge

9、stitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seamfinish.)DISCUSSIONA clean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning undereach cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm (18to14 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge. A stabilizing line ofstitching 3 to 6 mm from a curv

10、ed cut edge will facilitate turning beforestitching close to the plex seam, nin home sewing, a seam made in two ormore steps. (Ant. plain seam.)DISCUSSIONComplex seams have one or more stitching lines as partof their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,French seams, lapped

11、seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seamfinishes or decorative additions to seams.double-welt seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmedseam allowance is enclosed and two rows of sti

12、tching arevisible on the face side. (Compare welt seam. Syn. mockflat-felled seam.) (See Fig. 3.)DISCUSSIONA double-welt seam is made like a welt seam exceptthat it has a second row of topstitching close to the original seamline.The three rows of stitching visible on the back side are the originalse

13、am line, the row of stitching through the outermost layer of the sewnproduct and the wider of the seam allowances, and the row added nearthe original seam line.edge-stitched seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which machine stitching is placed close to the cut edge of1This terminology is u

14、nder the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textilesand is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.53 on Practices.Current edition approved Nov. 10, 1995 and February 10, 1996. Published July1996. Originally published as D 4965 89a. Last previous edition D 4965 95.2Annual Book of ASTM Stand

15、ards, Vol 07.01.FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.each seam allowance. (Compare zigzagged seam finish.)(See Fig. 4.)DISCUSSIONAn edge-stitched seam finish is made by stra

16、ightstitching approximately 3 to 6 mm (18 to14 in.) from each cut edge ofeach seam allowance.face side, nin textile materials, the side of the material thatis outermost in the completed product. (Ant. back side,wrong side. Syn. right side.)flat-felled seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formedon t

17、he outside of a product with cut edges enclosed and tworows of machine stitching visible from the face side. (SeeFig. 5(a) and (b).)DISCUSSIONA flat-felled seam is made by (1) stitching a basic seamwith the back sides together, (2) pressing both seam allowances to oneside, (3) trimming the under sea

18、m allowance to approximately18 in. (3mm), (4) turning under the cut edge of the upper seam allowance, and(5) topstitching close to the fold.French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seam formed onthe inside of a product with both cut edges enclosed and nostitching rows visible on the face side. (Compa

19、re mockFrench seam.) (See Fig. 6.)DISCUSSIONA French seam is made by (1) placing two sections offabric with back sides together, (2) stitching a seam line 10 mm (38in.)from the cut edges, (3) pressing the seam open, (4) trimming the seamallowance to 3 mm (18 in.) if the fabric does not ravel easily,

20、 or toslightly less than 6 mm (14 in.) if the fabric ravels easily, (5) clippingor notching the curved seam allowances such that they respectively willfit the larger or smaller area, against which they will be pressed, (6)folding the face sides of the fabric together, (7) pressing again with thestit

21、ched seamline exactly on the folded edge, and (8) stitching 6 mmfrom the folded edge. By using this procedure, the cut edges of thetrimmed seam allowance are enclosed completely. The two seamallowances make a total of 15 mm (58 in.), the standard seam allowancewidth. No stitching lines are visible f

22、rom the face side. French seamsare more appropriate for straight seams than curved seams.glued seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by the use ofan adhesive. (Compare sewn seam, stapled seam, ther-mally bonded seam.)DISCUSSIONAdhesive may be glue, heat-fusible web or powder, orhot glue.hand-overcast

23、 seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which hand stitches are sewn such that the thread wrapsaround the cut edges of each seam allowance. (See Fig. 7.)DISCUSSIONA hand-overcase seam finish is made by using a needleand thread to form stitches that are approximately 6 mm (14 in.) apartand3to6

24、mm(18 to14 in.) inside the cut edges of the seam allowance.The cut edge of each seam allowance is wrapped by the thread thatpasses over the edge.Hong Kong seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhich a binding fabric is used to encase the cut edge of eachseam allowance separately and in which

25、 the binding fabricFIG. 2 Clean-Finish Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 3 Double-Welt Seam from Face Side of FabricFIG. 4 Edge-Stitched Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 5 Flat-Felled Seam from Face Side of FabricFIG. 6 French Seam from Back Side of FabricD 4965 96 (2002)2has one cut

26、edge enclosed and the other cut edge exposed.(Compare bound seam finish.) (See Fig. 8.)DISCUSSIONA Hong Kong seam finish is made by (1) selecting astrip of light weight bias-cut woven fabric, lightweight knit such astricot or tulle, or commercial bias tape pressed open (25 mm (1 in.)wide), (2) placi

27、ng the bias strip against a seam allowance, face sidestogether and cut edges even, (3) stitching 6 mm (14 in.) from the cutedges, (4) pressing the binding away from the seam and over the cutedge toward the underside of the seam allowance, and (6) stitching inthe previously formed stitching line on t

28、he face side of the seamallowance, thus securing the under layer of the folded binding to theunder side of the seam allowance (sometimes called“ stitch-in-the-ditch”). The excess binding fabric may be trimmed close to thestitching.inside seam, nin home sewing, a seam having seam allow-ances located

29、within the interior, or the underside, of theproduct. (Compare outside seam.)DISCUSSIONExamples of inside seams include double-welt seams,French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tuckedseams, and welt seams.joining line, nSee seam.lapped seam, except the topstitching is farther fro

30、m the foldthan that of a lapped seam 6 to 10 mm (14 to38 in.).turned and stitched seam finish, nSee clean finished seamfinish.lapped seam for leather or nonwoven material, nin homesewing, a complex seam formed on the outside of theproduct, with neither cut edge enclosed and having one ortwo rows of

31、stitching and a cut edge visible from the outside.(Compare lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric.) (SeeFig. 9(a) and (d).)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for leather or nonwoven fabric is madeby (1) marking the corresponding seamlines on both pieces, (2)trimming off the entire seam allowance (15 mm (58 in

32、.) on the overlapor top section, (3) lapping the cut edge of the trimmed overlap sectionover the bottom section, butting the cut edge to the marked seamlinebeneath, and (4) gluing in place and topstitching with one or two rowsof stitching. Both gluing and topstitching may be used. This seam isused o

33、n leather, nonwoven leather-like material, and vinyl where anexposed cut edge is not a concern.lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric, nin homesewing, a complex seam formed on the inside of the productwith neither raw cut edge enclosed, and having one visibleline of topstitching on the face side an

34、d a small fold formedby the topstitching. (Compare tucked seam.) (See Fig. 10.)DISCUSSIONA lapped seam for woven or knitted fabric is made by(1) folding under the seam allowance of the overlapping section alongthe 15-mm (58-in.) seamline and pressing, then (2) working from theright side and pinning

35、the folded edge over the underlap section withthe fold along the seamline, and (3) stitching close to the fold throughall layers. Basting before stitching may be needed.material, nin home sewing, a planar structure such as textilefabric, plastic film, or leather.DISCUSSION“Materials” used may includ

36、e fabric, fur, leather andplastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.mock flat-felled seam, nSee double-welt seam.mock French seam, nin home sewing, a complex seamformed on the inside of the product with cut edges enclosedand no stitching visible on the face side; similar in appear-ance to the

37、 French seam but constructed differently. (Com-pare French seam.) (See Fig. 11.)DISCUSSIONA mock French seam is made by (1) placing two piecesof fabric with face sides together, (2) stitching on the 15-mm (58-in.)seamline, (3) trimming both seam allowances to 12 mm (12 in.), (4)clipping or notching,

38、 as appropriate, 3 mm (18 in.) on any curved edgesFIG. 7 Hand-Overcast Seam Finish from Back Side of FabricFIG. 8 Hong Kong Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric(a) (d)FIG. 9 Lapped Seam for Leather or Nonwoven Fabric from FaceSide of MaterialFIG. 10 Lapped Seam for Woven or Knitted Fabric from FaceS

39、ide of FabricD 4965 96 (2002)3so that curved seam allowances can fit the area against which they arefolded and pressed, (5) pressing open the seam, (6) then folding andpressing each of the seam allowances 6 mm (14 in.) toward the otherand the seamline, bringing the folded edges together, and (7) sti

40、tchingthe two seam allowances together 1.5 mm (116 in.) from the foldededges. Mock French seams are more appropriate for curved areas thanFrench seams.outside seam, nin home sewing, a seam in which the seamallowance of the completed seam is visible from the faceside of the sewn product. (Compare ins

41、ide seam.)DISCUSSIONAn example of an outside seam is the flat-felled seam.plain seam, nin home sewing, a seam formed by a single lineof stitching. (Ant. complex seam.) (See Figs. 12 and 13.)DISCUSSIONA plain seam joins two or more material sections;multiple layers of material may be treated as a sin

42、gle layer or section.Cut edges of the seam allowance in a plain seam may or may not havea finish applied. Sometimes a plain seam is reinforced by machinestitching again through both seam allowances together approximately 3to6mm(18 to14 in.) from the original seam line within the seamallowance. Reinf

43、orcement is appropriate for armscye, crotch, andwaistline seams. Reinforcement stitching may be along a section of aseam (as in a crotch seam) or along an entire seam (such as in awaistline seam). Seams that are reinforced are not pressed open.pinked seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish inwhi

44、ch a zigzagged or scalloped cut edge is produced.(Compare stitched and pinked seam finish). (See Fig. 14).DISCUSSIONA pinked seam finish is made by trimming, withpinking or scalloping shears, close to the cut edge of the seamallowance. This seam finish is more decorative than functional.right side,

45、nSee face side.rolled seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finish in whichboth cut edges are enclosed by rolling them to one side andhand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line withinthe seam allowance. (See Fig. 15.)DISCUSSIONA rolled seam finish is made by (1) trimming the seamallowance

46、to 10 mm (38 in.), (2) rolling the seam allowances togetherwith thumb and forefinger to one side so that cut edges are enclosed,and (3) hand stitching the rolled edge close to the seam line within theseam allowance.seam, nin home sewing, a line along which two or moresections of a product have been

47、joined. (Syn. joining line.See also glued seam, sewn seam, stapled seam, thermallybonded seam.)DISCUSSIONMaterials used may include fabric, fur, leather, andplastic film. Joining methods for seams may vary.sealant-sealed seam finish, nin home sewing, a seam finishin which a clear liquid seam-sealant

48、 is used as the treatmentto prevent fraying.DISCUSSIONSeam-sealant is used sparingly along the cut edges ofseam allowances. The dried finish may not be visible or sensed bytouch, depending on fabric and/or application.FIG. 11 Mock French Seam from Back Side of FabricFIG. 12 a Plain Seam from Face Si

49、de of MaterialFIG. 13 b Plain Seam Reinforced from Back Side of FabricFIG. 14 Pinked Seam Finish from Back Side of MaterialFIG. 15 Rolled Seam-Finish from Back Side of FabricD 4965 96 (2002)4seam allowance, nin sewn materials, the width of materialbetween the cut edge of a fabric section and the line parallelto the cut edge along which that section will be joined toanother section during assembly of the finished product.DISCUSSIONMany commercial patterns specify seam allowances of15 mm (58 in.).