ASTM D7019-2005 Standard Performance Specification for Brassiere Slip Lingerie and Underwear Fabrics《胸罩、带肩带女式长内衣、女式贴身内衣裤和内衣织物的标准性能规范》.pdf

1、Designation: D 7019 05Standard Performance Specification forBrassiere, Slip, Lingerie and Underwear Fabrics1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 7019; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of las

2、t revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics used inbrassieres underwear, slips, and lingerie.1.2 These requirements ap

3、ply to the length and widthdirections for those properties where each fabric direction ispertinent.1.3 The following safety hazards caveat pertains only to thetest methods described in this performance specification: Thisstandard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,if any, associa

4、ted with its use. It is the responsibility of the userof this standard to establish appropriate safety and healthpractices, and determine the applicability of regulatory limi-tations prior to use.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D 123 Terminology Relating to TextilesD 434 Test Method for R

5、esistance of Slippage of Yarns inWoven Fabrics Using a Standard SeamD 1336 Test Method for Distortion of Yarn in WovenFabricsD 1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf) ApparatusD 2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabricsby the Tongue (Single

6、Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)D 3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of TextilesDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester MethodD 3787 Test Method Bursting Strength of Textiles Constant-Rate-of Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst TestD 5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and

7、 Elongationof Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D 7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel2.2 AATCC Test Methods:38 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method15 Colorfastness to Perspiration16 Colorfastness to Light23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial:A

8、ccelerated116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical CrockmeterMethod124 Appearance of Fabrics after Repeated Home Launder-ings132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Launder-ing158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-ylene: Machine Method172

9、Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-dering188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in HomeLaundering2.3 Federal Standard:416 CFR 1610 - Flammable Fabrics Act RegulationsNOTE 1Reference to test methods in this specification give only thepermanent part of the designation of ASTM,

10、AATCC, or other testmethods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.3. Terminology3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specificationrefer to Terminologies D 123 and D 7022. For terms relating tochemical and colorfastness testing refer to specificAATCC testmethods.3

11、.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common usage aresuitable for this specification.4. Significance and Use4.1 Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of therequirements listed in Table 1.4.2 It should be recognized that fabric can be producedutilizing an almost infinite number of comb

12、inations of con-struction variables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers,yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and1This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 onTextiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.Current edition

13、approved July 1, 2005. Published August 2005.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from

14、American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.4Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,Washington, DC 20402.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, Un

15、ited States.mechanical finishes). Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictatethat the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles madefrom fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements inTable 1.4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possi-bly apply to all the various fabri

16、cs that could be utilized for thisend-use.4.3 The uses and significance of particular properties andtest methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of thespecified test methods.5. Test Methods (see Note 1)5.1 Breaking Strength (woven fabrics only)Determine thedry-breaking strength as directed

17、 in the grab test procedure ofTest Method D 5034 using a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE)tensile testing machine.NOTE 2If preferred a constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) tensile testingmachine may be used. There may be no overall correlation between theresults obtained with the CRT machine and the CRE m

18、achine. Conse-quently, these two testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case ofcontroversy, the CRE method, Test Method D 5034, shall prevail.5.2 Tearing Resistance (woven fabrics only)Determinethe tear resistance as directed in Test Method D 1424.NOTE 3If preferred, use of the tensile testing m

19、achine is permitted asdirected in Test Method D 2261. There may be no overall correlationbetween the results obtained with the Elmendorf machine (Test MethodD 1424) and with the tongue tear machines (Test Method D 2261).Consequently, these two testers cannot be used interchangeably. In case ofcontro

20、versy, Test Method D 1424 shall prevail.5.3 Resistance to Yarn Slippage (woven fabrics only)Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in TestMethod D 434.5.4 Yarn Distortion (woven fabrics only)Determine theyarn distortion as directed in Test Method D 1336.5.5 Bursting Strength (knit fab

21、rics only)Determine thebursting strength of knit fabrics as directed in Test MethodD 3786.NOTE 4If preferred, a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) tensile test-ing machine may be used. Since there is no overall correlation between theresults obtained with the CRE machine equipped with a bursting attac

22、h-ment (Test Method D 3787) and the diaphragm bursting tester TestMethod D 3786), these two bursting testers cannot be used interchange-ably. In case of controversy, the diaphragm bursting tester machine (TestMethod D 3786) shall prevail.5.6 Dimensional Change:TABLE 1 Specification RequirementsChara

23、cteristic Minimum Requirements SectionSheer Non-SheerBreaking strength (CRE)A67 N (15 lbf) 111 N (25 lbf) 5.1Tearing strength 4.4N(1lbf) 6.7N(1.5lbf) 5.2Resistance to Yarn slippage6mm(14 in.) separation, 45 N (10 lbf) 67 N (15 lbf) 5.3Brassierres - 133 N (30 lbf)Yarn distortion 5.4at 4.4 N (1 lbf) l

24、oadSatins 2.5 mm (0.1 in.), maxAll other 1 mm (0.05 in.), maxBursting strength 133 N (30 lbf) 222 N (50 lbf) 5.5Dimensional Change - WovenLaundering 3 %, max 5.6.1Drycleaning 2 %, max 5.6.2Dimensional Change KnitLaundering 5 % max 5.6.1Drycleaning 5 % max 5.6.2Colorfastness:Laundering 5.7.2Shade cha

25、nge Grade 4Staining Grade 3Drycleaning 5.7.3Shade change Grade 4Staining Grade 3Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach 5.7.4Shade Change Grade 4Non-Chlorine Bleach 5.7.4Shade Change Grade 4Burnt gas fumes2 cycles: 5.7.1Shade change, original fabric Grade 4Shade change, after one cleaning Grade 4Crocking: 5.7.5D

26、ry Grade 4Wet Grade 3Perspiration: 5.7.6Shade change Grade 4Staining Grade 3Light (10 AFU) (xenon-arc) Grade 4 5.7.7Fabric appearance SA 3.5 5.8Flammability Class I 5.9AThere is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength, tearing strength, bursting strength and lightfastness.

27、 These methods cannot be usedinterchangeably since there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, Note 4, and Note 5).D70190525.6.1 LaunderingDetermine the dimensional change afterlaundering as directed in the applicable procedure in AATCCMethod 135.5.6.2 DrycleaningDetermine

28、the dimensional change af-ter drycleaning as directed in AATCC Test Method 158.5.7 Colorfastness:5.7.1 LaunderingDetermine the colorfastness to launder-ing as directed in the applicable procedure of AATCC Method61.5.7.2 DrycleaningDetermine the colorfastness to dry-cleaning as directed in AATCC Test

29、 Method 132.NOTE 5Launderable fabrics are expected normally to be drycleaned,except where all or part of the fabric will not withstand drycleaning. Forexample, the fabric could contain a functional finish soluble in the solvent,or the fiber could be degraded by the solvent, which would be the casewi

30、th poly (vinyl chloride) fiber. If a fabric would be harmed by ALLmethods of care except for drycleaning, it should be considered Drycleanonly.5.7.3 BleachingWhen testing with bleach is indicated,test as directed in AATCC Test Method 172 for sodiumhypochlorite bleach, or AATCC Test Method 188 for no

31、n-chlorine bleach, as appropriate.5.7.4 Burnt Gas FumesDetermine the colorfastness toburnt gas fumes on the original fabric and after one launderingor one drycleaning as directed in AATCC Method 23. Washingor drycleaning conditions shall be as for dimensional changetesting.5.7.5 CrockingDetermine co

32、lorfastness to dry and wetcrocking as directed in AATCC Method 8 for solid shades andAATCC Method 116 for prints or as agreed upon between thepurchaser and the supplier.5.7.6 PerspirationDetermine colorfastness to perspirationas directed in AATCC Method 15.5.7.7 LightDetermine colorfastness to light

33、 as directed inAATCC Method 16.NOTE 6There are distinct differences in spectral distribution betweenthe various types of machines listed inAATCC Method 16, with no overallcorrelations between them. Consequently, these machines cannot be usedinterchangeably. In case of controversy, results obtained w

34、ith the water-cooled xenon-arc machine listed in Option E shall prevail.5.8 Fabric AppearanceDetermine the fabric smoothnessappearance (SA) as directed in AATCC Method 124 after theapplicable laundering or dry cleaning procedure.5.8.1 For fabrics not intended for use in durable pressgarments, determ

35、ine the smoothness appearance after pressingas specified in 10.2.5 of AATCC Test Method 135.5.9 FlammabilityThe flammability test and requirementsshall meet or exceed the Flammable Fabrics Act mandatorystandards as specified in 16 CFR 1610.6. Keywords6.1 brassiere; lingerie; slip; underwearASTM Inte

36、rnational takes no position respecting the validity of any patent rights asserted in connection with any item mentionedin this standard. Users of this standard are expressly advised that determination of the validity of any such patent rights, and the riskof infringement of such rights, are entirely

37、 their own responsibility.This standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn. Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standardsand sho

38、uld be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Sta

39、ndards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).D7019053