1、Designation: D7722 13D7722 17Standard Terminology Relating toIndustrial Textile Stitches and Seams1This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7722; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision
2、. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology covers stitches and seams related to industrial textiles.1.2 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two subse
3、ctions, specific to the two areas of specialization under this document.1.2.1 Section 3.1 Relating to Seams.1.2.2 Section 3.2 Relating to Stitches.1.3 For other terms relating to textiles refer to Terminology D123.1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recog
4、nized principles on standardizationestablished in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issuedby the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2D123 Terminology Relati
5、ng to TextilesD1683/D1683M Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven FabricsD1908 Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due to Sewing in Woven Fabrics3D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)D5646 Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Ho
6、me SewingD6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams3. Terminology3.1 Definitions Relating to Seams:double-stitched seam-finish, na finish for the raw edges of a plain seam, in which another row of machine stitching is madethrough both seam allowances placed together. D1683/D1683M, D6193grin, vin sewn sea
7、ms, to stress a seam so that the individual stitches can be seen.needle damage, nin sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passing through afabric during sewing.DISCUSSIONThis can also be referred to as needle cuts. D1908-89seam, na line where two or
8、more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. (See also sewn seam. See Terminology D5646 forglued seam,stapled seam, and thermally bonded seam.) D6193seam allowance, nin sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that edge.D1683/D1683M, D61931 Th
9、is terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.Current edition approved July 1, 2013July 15, 2017. Published August 2013August 2017. Originally approved in 2011. Last previous edition approved in 201
10、12013 asD7722-11.D7722-13. DOI: 10.1520/D7722-13.10.1520/D7722-17.2 For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standardsvolume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page on the ASTM web
11、site.3 Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Becauseit may not be technica
12、lly possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current versionof the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box
13、C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States1seam assembly, nthe composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONAseam assembly may be described in terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch type, seam allowance, se
14、wing thread tex number(s)and type(s) stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching. D1683/D1683Mseam damage, n in sewn fabrics, an adverse change in the physical condition of one or more of the components in a seam whichwould reduce the seam acceptability such as yarn slippage, needle damage, o
15、r fabric rupture. D6193seam efficiency, nin sewn fabrics, the ratio, expressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to rupture a sewn seamto that required to rupture the fabric; seam strength to fabric strength. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONFor some constructions, yarn strength and stitch
16、type can contribute to a higher seam efficiency value. D6193seam engineering, nin sewn fabrics, the procedures used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seamtype, and stitch density to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type. D1683/D1683Mseam fa
17、ilure, n in sewn fabrics, that point at which an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures the fabric, (3)causes excessive yarn slippage adjacent to the stitches, or (4) causes any combination of these unacceptable conditions.D1683/D1683MDISCUSSIONDespite the lack of rupture, exces
18、sive seam slippage will either significantly reduce seam efficiency, or, result in an unsightly appearance thus creatingseam failure. D1683/D1683Mseam interaction, nin sewn fabrics, the net effect of the relationship between the combination of fabric, seam type, stitch type,and stitch density on sea
19、m efficiency. D1683/D1683Mseam slippage, nin sewn fabrics, a mode of failure in production seams; the displacement of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacentto the stitch line. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONShown as a transverse ratio of junction strength to fabric strength including the ratio of elong
20、ation of fabric to the ratio of elongation at the junction.Seam slippage occurs when fabric yarns parallel to the stitch line move away from the seam. It is caused by the yarns in the fabric pulling out fromthe stitch line, and manifests itself as a gaping opening. Any movement of the warp and weft
21、yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses,which exacerbate the potential damage. (See yarn slippage.) D1683/D1683Mseam type, nin sewn fabrics, an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rowsof stitching in a specified sewn fabric seam.
22、 D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONThe first two letters of the designation show seam type; the third and subsequent letters specify a particular mating alignment; the number designationindicates the number of rows of stitches. D1683/D1683Msew, vto unite or fasten with stitches. D6193sewing thread, na fl
23、exible, small-diameter yarn or strand, usually treated with a surface coating, lubricant, or both, intended tobe used to stitch one or more pieces of material or an object to a material. D6193sewn seam, nin sewn fabrics, a juncture at which two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are
24、joined by sewing,usually near the edge. D1683/D1683M, D6193sewn seam strength, nin sewn fabrics, the maximum resistance to rupture of the junction formed by stitching together two ormore planar structures. sewing thread.DISCUSSIOND7722 172The sewn seam strength of various end use products can demons
25、trate either a one-time catastrophic failure of the material on either side of the sewnseam; or, a failure of the stitching configuration that can, or cannot, permit the assembly to be repaired.General One-time failure(1) Examples of one-time failure of the stitching configuration where the assembly
26、 cannot be repaired include baseballs, soccerballs, and American footballs. Conversely, examples of a stitching configuration, which has an intentional one-time use, is a feed,concrete, seed, or fertilizer bag that is stitched to provide closure and adequate seam strength to keep the contents secure
27、; until thestitching is intentionally ruptured so that the container can be emptied.(2) Another category of textile products designed for a one-time catastrophic failure are inflatable restraints used to protect theoccupants in the passenger compartment of an automobile. The millisecond needed for t
28、he accelerant to initiate the simultaneousinflation/deflation of the air cushion requires that sewn seam strength combine two performance properties:(a) The necessary strength to resist forces exerted by the multi-angular displacement of the fabric during the inflation stage,and(b) The structural in
29、tegrity to retain the shape during the simultaneous deflation of the cushion.General Repair ofAssemblySewn seam strength can be estimated so that the structural integrity of the stitching, used to construct an assemblycan meet a value that indicates a seam efficiency that is from 80 85 % of the fabr
30、ic break strength. While this percentage does not match the maximumbreak strength that the fabric can attain when tested using Test Method D5034, the differential between these two is usually an indicator that theassembly can be repaired which can contribute to the extended service life of the produ
31、cts.Specific Career Apparel/Protective Clothing that is flame resistantThe higher costs typically associated with career apparel and protectiveclothing are a factor that creates a need for extended service life. Both career apparel garments and protective clothing that is flame resistant areregularl
32、y maintained and repaired so that the service life of the garment can be extended. A cost/value analysis can be performed to learn if datasupports reducing the seam efficiency to less than the 80 85 % threshold, in order to extend the service life while not increasing the number of repairs.D1683/D16
33、83Mslippage, nin sewn fabrics, the displacement of one or more fabric yarns from their original position, so as to cause differencesin alignment, spacing, or both. D1683/D1683Mstandard seam, na seam assembly which uses a specific seam type for a designated fabric having specific weight, density andc
34、onstruction. D1683/D1683Mstitch, nin sewn seams, the repeated unit formed by the sewing thread(s) in the production of seams. D1683/D1683Mstitch density, nin sewn seams, the number of stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam. D1683/D1683M,D6193DISCUSSIONThis is usually expressed
35、as stitches per inch (spi). D6193stitch gage, n in sewn fabrics, the perpendicular distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching. D1683/D1683M, D6193yarn slippage, na mode of failure of fabrics when sewn using a standard seam. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONThe displacement of one or more fabri
36、c yarns from the original position(s) so as to cause differences in alignment and spacing of both yarns.D1683/D1683Myarn severance, na numerical value expressed on a percentage basis from this test that is used as an index of the degree ofcutting of fabric yarns by the sewing machine needle in makin
37、g sewn seams.3.2 Definitions Relating to Stitches:stitch, nin sewing, the configuration of the interlacing of sewing thread in a specific repeated unit. (See also stitching, and stitchtype.) D6193stitch type, na numerical designation relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing of se
38、wing thread(s) in a specifiedseam type. D1683/D1683M, D6193DISCUSSIONStitch types are described in Practice D6193.stitching, na series of stitches embodied in a meterial or materials of planar structure such as woven textile fabrics usually forornamental purposes or finishing an edge, or both. D6193
39、D7722 1734. Keywords4.1 stitch; seamThis standard is subject to revision at any time by the responsible technical committee and must be reviewed every five years andif not revised, either reapproved or withdrawn.Your comments are invited either for revision of this standard or for additional standar
40、dsand should be addressed to ASTM International Headquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committ
41、ee on Standards, at the address shown below.This standard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org). Permission rights to photocopy the standard may also be secured from the Copyright Clearance Center, 222Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, Tel: (978) 646-2600; http:/ 174
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