ASTM E2082-2012 Standard Guide for Descriptive Analysis of Shampoo Performance《洗发剂特性的描述性分析标准导则》.pdf

1、Designation: E2082 12Standard Guide forDescriptive Analysis of Shampoo Performance1This standard is issued under the fixed designation E2082; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in pa

2、rentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon () indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedureswhich may be used in the design, execution, and analysis ofstudies to quantitatively assess the

3、 objective sensory attributesof shampoos. This is one of many appropriate techniques usedin the hair-care industry. These attributes can then be used todefine performance of shampoos and to provide direction inproduct formulation, research guidance testing, and claimsubstantiation. This guide includ

4、es the sensory propertiesinvolved in dispensing a product, as well as the attributespertinent to shampooing swatches, half and whole heads.Although this guide is specific to shampoos, the proceduresshould be applicable to most hair-care products.1.2 Guidelines are provided for the definition oftermi

5、nology, procedures for manipulation of products,identification/selection of hair type, and assessor training.References for rating scales are not provided in this guide. Theuser should be aware that some sensory practices may requirethe use of attribute references (anchors) when training theassessor

6、s.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E253 Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Mate-rials and Products2.2 ASTM Publications:3ASTM Manual 13 Descriptive Analysis Testing for SensoryEvaluationASTM Manual 26 Sensory Testing Methods: Second EditionASTM Manual 30 Relating Consumer, Descr

7、iptive, andLaboratory Data to Better Understand Consumer Re-sponsesASTM STP 758 Guidelines for the Selection and Training ofSensory Panel Members2.3 Code of Federal Regulations:421 CFR 50.25 Protection of Human SubjectsElements ofInformed Consent3. Terminology3.1 DefinitionsDefinitions of terms othe

8、r than those givenas follows appear in Terminology E253.3.2 Definitions:3.2.1 cosmetologista licensed, trained professional whohas been certified by state or government agencies to applyhair-care products to human heads. These individuals may bealternately described as beauticians, stylists, hairdre

9、ssers, orcosmetologists.3.2.2 subjectsthose individuals recruited to participate ina study for the quality or condition of their hair, to serve assample carriers.3.2.3 trained panela group of assessors who have beenformally trained to evaluate the visual and tactile properties ofshampoo or hair, usi

10、ng a standard descriptive analysis methodwhich quantifies attributes on a rating scale over a set timeperiod. The number may vary depending on the complexity ofthe test and the skill of the assessor.4. Equipment4.1 The following equipment may be used during theevaluation process:4.1.1 General:4.1.1.

11、1 Light SourceA consistent light source is recom-mended for use during evaluation of shine or luster. It isimportant to control the amount of light as well as the angleand distance from the hair.4.1.1.2 Water SourceTemperature and hardness should beconsistent. If controlled temperature sinks are use

12、d, theyshould all have the same, consistent flow rate.4.1.1.3 Blow DryerSpecifications should be documented(that is, wattage, voltage, power level, air velocity, andtemperature).4.1.1.4 Syringes/Pipettes, Petri Dishes.1This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee E18 on SensoryEvaluation a

13、nd is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee E18.07 on PersonalCare and Household Evaluation.Current edition approved Oct. 15, 2012. Published December 2012. Originallyapproved in 2000. Last previous edition approved in 2006 as E2082 06. DOI:10.1520/E2082-12.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit

14、the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For Annual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.3Available from ASTM International Headquarters, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, POBox C700, West Conshohock

15、en, PA 19428-29594Available from U.S. Government Printing Office Superintendent of Documents,732 N. Capitol St., NW, Mail Stop: SDE, Washington, DC 20401.Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States14.1.1.5 Towels (cloth or paper,

16、or both).4.1.1.6 CombsIt is recommended that all combs be iden-tical in material and construction (that is, tooth length,thickness, and distance between teeth). They should be appro-priately cleaned before each use. For evaluations on subjectheads, combs must be sanitized properly prior to use with

17、eachtest subject.4.1.1.7 Thermometer.4.1.1.8 Hygrometer.4.1.2 Additional Equipment for Evaluation on Swatches:4.1.2.1 Hair Swatches (see Section 8 for preparation proce-dure).4.1.3 Additional Equipment for Evaluation on Subjects(Salon Setting):4.1.3.1 All-Purpose Styling Chair.4.1.3.2 Capes.4.1.3.3

18、Wet/Dry Sanitizers.5. Summary of Guide5.1 This guide provides guidelines for the identification,selection, and training of assessors, using a commonprocedure, so they may effectively evaluate the sensory attri-butes of shampoos and the effects of their use on hair. Thisguide describes the evaluation

19、 using hair swatches and subjects(half and whole heads).5.2 During swatch evaluation, a panel of trained assessorstreats hair swatches with the shampoo products, and evaluatethe appearance, product pick-up, application, foaming, and wethair and dry hair attributes of the shampoo.5.3 Evaluations usin

20、g live subjects are typically performedin a salon-type setting. In some cases, the services of a licensedcosmetologist may be required by state or local law. Licensedcosmetologists may bring an expanded frame of reference andmay be trained as descriptive assessors. Many of the attributesevaluated on

21、 subject heads are similar to those evaluated onswatches.5.4 A comparative overview highlighting the characteristicsof shampoo evaluation using swatches and using live subjectsis provided in the following chart:Comparative Overview of Shampoo Testing Using Trained EvaluatorsSwatches versus SubjectsS

22、watch Subject: Half or Whole HeadHighly Controlled Testing: Less Controlled:Controlled procedure, limitedvariabilityUniform hair samples (typicallycommercially blended 9virgin9 hair)Often may purchase/create desired/target hair typesControlled procedure but highlyvariable hair/scalp types andconditi

23、ons (length, diameter, oiliness,dirtiness, damage, etc.)In special cases, may screen/targetspecific hair typesArtificial: Less Artificial:Lack scalp/sebum involvement,packing/scalp orientation effects,single hair type representedScalp/sebum involvement, packing/whole-head effects, usuallyincorporate

24、s a range of hair types/conditionsInitial Investment: Initial Investment:Comparative Overview of Shampoo Testing Using Trained EvaluatorsSwatches versus SubjectsSwatch Subject: Half or Whole HeadLower capital requirements perstationControlled environment shouldinclude controlled lighting, water flow

25、,and individual assessor stationsSeveral approaches available,varying in sophistication andexpenseDepending on testing volume andscheduling, may require a greatertotal number of stationsHigher capital requirements perstationRequires suitable salon-stylefacilities/stations with controlledlighting, wa

26、ter flow, etc.May require fewer total stationsInitial Training and Maintenance: Initial Training and Maintenance:Variable, but probably grosslysimilar for swatch and subject testingVariable, but probably grosslysimilar for swatch and subjecttestingLower Cost for Testing: Higher Cost for Testing:Asse

27、ssor fees, consumables(syringes, etc.)Hair reusable over extendedperiodsIn addition to assessors fees andconsumables; there are subject fees,recruiting costsMay require services of a licensedcosmetologist for some types oftestingSample Turn Around: Sample Turn Around:Rapid testing, high throughput,a

28、ssessors available as needed little to no lead timeLess rapid testing, assessorsavailable, but may require additionallead time for subject recruitingEvaluations/Evaluators : Evaluations/Evaluators:Typically requires fewer totalevaluations but more (minimum of 7to 10) evaluators, usually 2 or morerep

29、s/productRequires more total evaluations(subjects), but may require fewertrained assessors (see 10.1)Simultaneous descriptive andsubject self-assessment possible6. Significance and Use6.1 The methods outlined in this guide can be used toqualitatively and quantitatively describe the performance andse

30、nsory characteristics of shampoos.6.2 The methods described in this guide may be used forproduct formulation and research guidance as well as forquality control.6.3 These methods may be used by individuals who famil-iarize themselves with these procedures and who have previousexperience with sensory

31、 evaluation.6.4 Variables that may affect results include, but are notlimited to, water conditions (for example, hardness), hair type,and hair condition. These variables should be controlled oraccounted for in the experimental design.6.5 These are suggested procedures and are not intended toexclude

32、alternate methods, which may effectively provide thesame or similar results.7. Trained Panel Selection and Descriptive Training7.1 The objective is to select and train assessors to evaluatethe visual and tactile properties of shampoos on hair swatchesusing a descriptive analysis method. The selectio

33、n processshould include the principles embodied inASTM STP758. Thetask of the assessor is to describe product and hair attributes byrating the perceived quantity and quality of specified attributes.E2082 1227.2 Trained Panel Selection:7.2.1 Assessors may be recruited from within the company,or from

34、the local community. The use of licensed cosmetolo-gists as trained assessors adds an additional qualification to thecommunity recruit.7.2.2 The choice to use internal employees allows a com-pany to have assessors on site and control proprietary infor-mation. It may, however, create potential resour

35、ce and sched-uling conflicts, since panel evaluation will not be theemployees primary job focus.7.2.3 The use of local community residents allows thecompany to schedule more panel time per week and may lowerthe risk of losing assessors. A large pool of potential assessorsis usually available.7.2.3.1

36、 A screening questionnaire is recommended to deter-mine availability, interest, general knowledge of tactileproperties, ability to use descriptive words, and ability to userating scales. This questionnaire is used to eliminate unsuitablecandidates. Some questions on the screening questionnairerelate

37、 to previous and current employment. Assess if any ofthese questions conflicts with individual company policy (seeTable 1) It is recommended that the form be approved by thecompanys human resources department.7.2.4 With specific training, licensed cosmetologists mayrepresent a special type of descri

38、ptively trained assessor. Insome states, licensing is required to apply certain hair-careproducts to live models (subjects). Information concerning thelegal requirements for licensing professional cosmetologistsmay be obtained through the states Board of Beauty Culture.7.2.5 Licensed cosmetologists

39、typically will require highercompensation than non-licensed candidates. Since licensedcosmetologists are experienced, they may require a shortertraining period. They may also have some preconceived biases.7.2.6 When cosmetologists are trained as descriptiveevaluators, the difference between their tr

40、aditional role andtheir role as a trained descriptive evaluator should be carefullyexplained.7.3 Recruitment and Screening:7.3.1 A large group of candidates may be recruited from thelocal community or from within the company (50 to 70recommended, with necessarily fewer if licensed cosmetolo-gists ar

41、e to be used). If candidates are recruited from the localcommunity, recommendations include contacting communitygroups, placing newspaper ads, and an announcement on therecruiting companys website. If candidates are recruitedwithin the company, interoffice memos or emails, or noticesposted on the co

42、mpanys website or bulletin boards areeffective.7.3.2 Prior to completing a screening questionnaire, the timecommitment for training (orientation and practice sessions),potential duration of the panel, panel objectives, and assessorcommitment should be discussed with each candidate. Inaddition, in th

43、e case of a cosmetologist assessor, the differencesbetween conduct and responsibilities as a trained evaluator andthose of a cosmetologist should be emphasized.7.3.3 A screening questionnaire is recommended (refer to7.2.3.1).7.3.4 Select 15 to 20 assessors. This number may varydepending on the compl

44、exity of the test and the skill of theassessors. The following criteria may be used as a guideline.Other approaches are described in ASTM Manual 13 andASTM STP 758.7.3.4.1 Screening Questionnaire:(1) Availability for the complete orientation and 80100 %of the training practice sessions.(2) No health

45、-related problems, such as, skin irritations,central nervous system disorders, or medications which mightinterfere with the central nervous system or reduce skin andmuscle activity.(3) Correct and comprehensive descriptive answers to75 % or more of the open-ended tactile questions in thescreening qu

46、estionnaire.(4) Correct rating of 80 % or more of the scaling exercisesin the screening questionnaire (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2).7.3.4.2 InterviewEach candidate should be interviewed bythe panel administrator or trainer to determine attitude, interest,and ability to learn and work in a group situation.

47、 Thecandidate should demonstrate good verbal skills, a high interestin descriptive dynamics, and a cooperative yet confidentpersonality (see Table 2).7.4 Trained Panel Orientation/Training:7.4.1 The panel trainer needs to orient assessors first to thegeneral concepts, such as, the definition, compon

48、ents, andapplication of descriptive analysis testing. This will takeapproximately two hours.7.4.2 Assessors are introduced to the need for strictlycontrolled sample application procedures and for the carefuldefinition of each sensory attribute. This will take approxi-mately two hours.7.4.3 A discuss

49、ion and demonstration of each attribute isconducted at each stage of the evaluation. This establishes theoverall structure of the descriptive analysis of hair-care prop-erties. Assessors are encouraged to discuss each term, itsdefinition, the evaluation procedure(s), and the correspondingrating scale after they are demonstrated by the panel trainer.The time involved completing this step depends on the numberof attributes selected and the length of discussions. See Section9 for suggested procedures and attributes.7.4.4 For each attribute, the procedure, definition,