ASTM F1773-1997(2004) Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices《与攀岩和登山运动器材及原则有关的标准术语》.pdf

1、Designation: F 1773 97 (Reapproved 2004)Standard Terminology Relating toClimbing and Mountaineering Equipment and Practices1This standard is issued under the fixed designation F 1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year oforiginal adoption or, in the case of revision,

2、 the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. Asuperscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.1. Scope1.1 This terminology defines the terms that are unique toclimbing and mountaineering and the statistical bas

3、is for ratinga products performance.2. Referenced Documents2.1 ASTM Standards:2E 456 Terminology Relating to Quality and StatisticsE 1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue3. Terminology3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and MountaineeringTerms:3.1.1 aid climbing, na technique of climbing tha

4、t utilizesauxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement thenatural features of the surface being climbed.3.1.2 belay, na technique where a stationary personcontrols a rope connected to a moving climber in order toprovide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, tocatch the climbe

5、r.3.1.3 belay, vto protect a climber with a belay.3.1.4 belayer, na person who is belaying.3.1.5 bouldering, na technique of climbing where climb-ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope tosafeguard their progress.3.1.6 climber, na person engaging in the sport of climb-ing and mountainee

6、ring.3.1.7 climbing and mountaineering, nthe sport of as-cending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.3.1.8 climbing and mountaineering equipment, ntheequipment exclusively designed for use in climbing andmountaineering.3.1.9 free c

7、limbing, na technique of climbing that usesonly the natural features of the surface being climbed. In freeclimbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection inthe event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.3.1.10 lead climbing, nthe skill of climbing first up apitch, utilizing a bela

8、yer, climbing rope, and intermediateprotection anchors.3.1.11 rappel, nthe set up of anchors and equipment usedto rappel.3.1.12 rappel, vto descend by sliding down a rope usingequipment or special technique, or both, which applies friction,thereby controlling the speed of descent.3.1.13 route, nthe

9、path chosen by a climber.3.1.14 self belay, na technique of self protection em-ployed by a climber using climbing and mountaineeringequipment.3.1.15 soloing, na technique of climbing where theclimber is alone. A belay may or may not be used.3.1.16 top rope climbing, na technique of climbingwhere the

10、 climber is safeguarded by a roped belay from above.3.2 Definitions of Climbing and Mountaineering EquipmentTerms:3.2.1 accessory cord, nropes used for climbing andmountaineering purposes that are not designed to absorb fallimpact energy.3.2.2 artificial climbing wall (ACW), na wall exclu-sively des

11、igned and built for climbing. The ACWs may bedesigned and used for lead climbing, top rope climbing orbouldering. The ACWs may be transportable or permanent.3.2.3 ascender, na device used to ascend a rope.3.2.4 belay anchor, nan anchor used to secure the rope orbelayer, or both, while belaying a cli

12、mber. It also may be usedwith ropes while descending or lowering.3.2.5 belay bar, na belay anchor made from pipe or a bar.3.2.6 belay device, na mechanical device used to controlthe friction on a rope.3.2.7 belay station, na place where belay anchors arelocated.3.2.8 bolt hanger, na device which, wh

13、en attached to asurface by the means of a bolt, is used to provide an anchorpoint.3.2.9 carabiner, na self-closing, gated, load-bearing,connective device.1This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee F32 on Searchand Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on E

14、quipment,Testing, and Maintenance.Current edition approved May 1, 2004. Published May 2004. Originallyapproved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 1997 as F 1773 97.2For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, orcontact ASTM Customer Service at serviceastm.org. For An

15、nual Book of ASTMStandards volume information, refer to the standards Document Summary page onthe ASTM website.1Copyright ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.3.2.10 carabiner, locking, na carabiner with a gate-locking mechanism.3.2.

16、11 carabiner, nonlocking, na carabiner without agate-locking mechanism.3.2.12 chock, na device that is placed in a crack or pocketin rock and designed to withstand a load applied throughwebbing, rope, wire, or a carabiner.3.2.13 chock, active, na chock containing moving partsthat control its width.3

17、.2.14 chock, passive, na chock containing no movingparts.3.2.15 crampon, na foot-mounted piece of equipmentwith spikes designed to provide traction or support on snowand ice.3.2.16 descender, na rappel device.3.2.17 floor anchor, na belay anchor on the floor.3.2.18 harness, na piece of equipment des

18、igned to beworn by a climber or mountaineer that provides an attachmentpoint for a rope and a means to support the climbers bodyduring climbing, resting, rappelling, or falling.3.2.19 harness, chest, nthe part of a combination harnessthat fits around the upper part of the body.3.2.20 harness, combin

19、ation, na harness consisting of asit harness and chest harness.3.2.21 harness, full-body, na harness that fits around theupper part, the waist, and thighs of the body.3.2.22 harness, sit, na harness that fits around the waistand thighs of the body. Sometimes referred to as a seat harness.3.2.23 helm

20、et, na piece of equipment designed to provideprotection to climbers heads from falling objects and theimpact of a fall.3.2.24 ice tool, na hand-held piece of equipment designedto assist climbers and mountaineers on ice or hard snow.3.2.25 kernmantle construction, na method of makingcord and rope by

21、braiding a sheath or cover (mantle) over acore (kern) of parallel, twisted, or braided stands.3.2.26 low elongation ropes, nropes with low elongationor stretch properties used principally for static loads. Lowelongation ropes sometimes are referred to as static ropes.3.2.27 piton, nice, a device des

22、igned to be hammered intoice to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.28 piton, nrock, a device designed to be driven by ahammer into a crack in rock to provide a belay or protectionanchor.3.2.29 protection anchors, nanchors used to secure aclimbing rope while leading a climb or to lower off one.

23、3.2.30 pulley, na device containing a grooved wheel overwhich a rope runs to reduce friction and change the angle ofpull.3.2.31 rappel device, na friction device used on a rope tocontrol the speed while rappelling.3.2.32 rock protection, nequipment designed to provideprotection and belay anchors in

24、rock.3.2.33 rope, nwound or woven length of filaments, pro-vided in various diameters, lengths, and elasticity depending onspecific end use.climbing, na rope of kernmantle construction, specificallydesigned to provide support, facilitate movement, and pro-tect a climber by cushioning the impact of a

25、 fall. Climbingropes sometimes are referred to as dynamic ropes.double, na half rope.half, na climbing rope that must be used with another halfrope with one or both ropes being attached to protectionanchors.single, na climbing rope that may be used alone.twin, na special type of half rope in which b

26、oth rope strandsare used as one with both running through the sameprotection anchors.3.2.34 runner, na sewn or tied loop of webbing or ropedesigned to support a load.3.2.35 quick draw, na short runner.3.2.36 screw, ice na device designed to be screwed intoice to provide a belay or protection anchor.

27、3.2.37 sling, na runner.3.2.38 snow anchor, na device driven into or buried insnow to provide a belay or protection anchor.3.2.39 webbing, na flat or tubular length of woven fabricused for a variety of purposes in climbing and mountaineering.3.3 Other Terms:3.3.1 attribute data, nobserved values or

28、determinationswhich indicate the presence or absence of specific character-istics.E 4563.3.2 laboratory performance rating, nthe rating of aproducts performance defined by a standard test method.3.3.3 laboratory rated strength, nthe strength definedby a standard test method that 99.7 %, or more, of

29、a populationexceeds. The number shall be derived using a 3-s rating. Ratedstrength shall be expressed in metric units of force, kilonew-tons (kN).3.3.4 lot, na definite quantity of a product or materialaccumulated under conditions that are considered uniform forsampling.E 4563.3.5 performance rating

30、, nthe rating of a productsperformance defined by a standard test method.3.3.6 population, nthe totality of items or units of mate-rial under consideration.E 4563.3.7 sample, na group of items, observations, test re-sults, or portions of material, taken from a large collection(population) of items,

31、observations, test results, or quantities ofmaterial that serves to provide information that may be used asa basis for making a decision concerning the larger collection.E 4563.3.8 sample average ( x), nthe sum of all the observedvalues in a sample divided by the sample size. It is a pointestimate o

32、f the population mean.E 11503.3.9 sample standard deviation (s), nthe square root ofthe sample variance. It is a point estimate of the populationstandard deviation, a measure of the spread of the frequencydistribution of a population. Sample standard deviation isdefined as follows:s 5n(x22 (x!2nn 2

33、1!(1)F 1773 97 (2004)2where:s = sample standard deviation,n = number of units in a sample, andx = sample property being measured.E 11503.3.10 three s rating (3s), na statistical method used toderive rated strength, using the formula:Rated Strength 5 x 2 3s!(2)where:x = tested samples average ultimat

34、e strength, ands = tested samples standard deviation.3.3.11 ultimate strength, nthe maximum force sustainedas defined by a standard test method.3.3.12 variable data, nmeasurements that vary and maytake any of a specified set of numerical values.E 456ASTM International takes no position respecting th

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37、adquarters. Your comments will receive careful consideration at a meeting of theresponsible technical committee, which you may attend. If you feel that your comments have not received a fair hearing you shouldmake your views known to the ASTM Committee on Standards, at the address shown below.This s

38、tandard is copyrighted by ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959,United States. Individual reprints (single or multiple copies) of this standard may be obtained by contacting ASTM at the aboveaddress or at 610-832-9585 (phone), 610-832-9555 (fax), or serviceastm.org (e-mail); or through the ASTM website(www.astm.org).F 1773 97 (2004)3