BS 3838-1980 Specification for blazer fabrics《运动夹克织物规范》.pdf

1、BRITISH STANDARD BS3838:1980 Incorporating Amendment No.1 Specification for Blazer fabrics UDC 677.074:687.112.2BS3838:1980 This BritishStandard, having been prepared under the directionof the Fibres, Yarns andFabrics Standards Committee, was published underthe authority oftheExecutive Board and com

2、es into effect on 31October1980 BSI12-1999 First published December1964 First revision October1980 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference FBT/7 Draft for comment79/35327 DC ISBN 0 580 11505 4 Cooperating organizations The Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Stand

3、ards Committee, under whose direction this BritishStandard was prepared, consists of representatives from the following Government departments and scientific and industrial organizations: Association of Jute Spinners and Manufacturers British Man-made Fibres Federation* British Nonwoven Manufacturer

4、s Association British Railways Board* British Textile Employers Association Central Council of the Irish Linen Industry Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI* Department of Industry (Chemicals and Textiles) Institute of Purchasing and Supply International Wool Secretariat* Knitting Industries

5、 Federation Ltd. Manchester Chamber of Commerce and Industry Ministry of Defence* Narrow Fabrics Federation Retail Trading-Standards Association Incorporated Textile Institute Warp Knitters Association Ltd.* The organizations marked with an asterisk in the above list, together with the following, we

6、re directly represented on the committee entrusted with the preparation of this BritishStandard: British Multiple Retailers Association Central Fire Brigade Advisory Council Clothing Manufacturers Federation of Great Britain Department of Health and Social Security Greater Manchester Council Fire Se

7、rvice Home Office Joint Committee of the Four Secondary Associations Liverpool Central Purchasing and Supplies Department Local Authorities Management Services and Computer Committee Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain Menswear Association of Britain Ltd. National Association of Head Tea

8、chers National Childrens Wear Association National Union of Teachers Textile and Clothing Contractors Association Textile Research Council Wool Textile Delegation Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue Comments 5561 August1987 Indicated by a sideline in the marginBS3838:1980 BSI

9、12-1999 i Contents Page Cooperating organizations Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 References 1 3 Definition 1 4 Technical requirements 1 5 Sampling 1 6 Marking 1 Appendix A Assessment of snagging tendency of weft-knitted fabrics by a mace snag tester 3 Figure 1 Template 3 Figure 2 Single

10、specimen folded for sewing 3 Figure 3 Outline sketch of mace snag tester 4 Table 1 Technical requirements 2 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS3838:1980 ii BSI 12-1999 Foreword This first revision of BS3838 has been prepared under the direction of the Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics Standards Com

11、mittee. It is based on the first edition of BS3838, published in1964, and on the Hard Wearing Blazer Cloth Scheme developed by the Retail Trading-Standards Association Incorporated. This revision is applicable both to wool and wool blends and to man-made fibres and blends. The first edition of BS383

12、8 covered blazer fabrics for school use; in the present edition it has been decided not to specify the end use of the fabrics but to allow the standard to be applied to other blazer fabrics if required. Additional performance criteria have been introduced. The extension of the standard to permit the

13、 use of man-made fibres in blazer fabrics has necessitated the inclusion of test procedures for dimensional stability and for colour fastness to washing. Procedures for colour fastness to dry cleaning and perspiration and for resistance to pilling have also been included. Two sets of requirements ha

14、ve been specified, one for extra hard wearing blazer fabrics and one for standard hard wearing blazer fabrics. For black and navy fabrics it is sometimes possible to obtain higher levels of performance for certain properties, such as tensile strength, colour fastness and abrasion resistance, than it

15、 is for fabrics of other colours. It should be indicated on the blazer whether the garment has been manufactured from fabric which complies with the requirements for the extra hard wearing blazer fabric or for the standard hard wearing blazer fabric. A British Standard does not purport to include al

16、l the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to Statutory Instrument1986 No.26, the Textile Products

17、(Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to6, an inside back cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be i

18、ndicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS3838:1980 BSI 12-1999 1 1 Scope This BritishStandard specifies requirements for blazer fabrics made from wool or wool blends or man-made fibres or blends. It is applicable to woven and knitted fabrics. 2 References The titles of the publica

19、tions referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 3 Definition For the purposes of this standard the following definition applies. snag a yarn or a number of filaments that have been pulled out from a fabric to form unsightly distorted loops on the surface of the fabric 4 Techn

20、ical requirements When tested in accordance with the methods specified in the second column of Table 1 the fabrics shall comply with the requirements specified in the third column. 5 Sampling A representative sample of fabric is required for testing purposes, having an area of150cm 175cm. No specime

21、n shall be cut less than10cm from a selvedge or from the end of a piece. 6 Marking Fabric shall be marked with the following information: a) the number and date of this BritishStandard, i.e.BS3838:1980 1) ; b) the name, trademark or other means of identification of the supplier and/or manufacturer;

22、c) cleansing instructions in accordance with the recommendations and terminology of BS2747; Garments made from fabrics complying with the requirements of this standard shall be marked additionally with either d) or e) as follows: d) “Made from fabric which complies with the requirements of BS3838:19

23、80 Extra hard wearing blazer fabric”; e) “Made from fabric which complies with the requirements of BS3838:1980 Standard hard wearing blazer fabric”. 1) Marking BS3838:1980 on or in relation to a product represents a manufacturers declaration of conformity, i.e.a claim by or on behalf of the manufact

24、urer that the product meets the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of the claim is therefore solely the responsibility of the person making the claim. Such a declaration is not to be confused with third party certification of conformity, which may also be desirable.BS3838:1980 2 BSI 12-1999

25、Table 1 Technical requirements Property to be assessed Test procedure Requirements Extra hard wearing blazer fabric Standard hard wearing blazer fabric a Tensile strength BS2576 Minimum Warp240N Minimum Warp225N Weft240N Weft225N b Bursting strength BS4768 Minimum490kPa c a Seam slippage BS3320 Maxi

26、mum opening4mm at a mass of12kg Dimensional stability BS4736 BS5807 de Maximum warp or wales 2% Maximum weft or courses2% Maximum warp or wales 2% Maximum weft or courses2% Colour fastness a) Light d b) Washing c) Dry cleaning d) Perspiration e) Rubbing BS1006-B02 BS1006-C02 BS1006-D01 BS1006-E04 BS

27、1006-X12 Minimum56 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum staining4 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum staining of the solvent4 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum staining34 Maximum dry, staining4 Maximum wet, staining34 Minimum45 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum staining34 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum st

28、aining of the solvent4 Maximum change in shade4 Maximum staining23 Maximum dry, staining34 Maximum wet, staining3 Abrasion resistance BS5690 under a load of9kPa End-point in excess of30000cycles End-point in excess of20000cycles Appearance retention BS1006-A02 Maximum change in shade4 after15000cycl

29、es f Resistance to pilling BS5811 Minimum rating of standard4 after10h(36000cycles) g Tendency to snag Appendix A Minimum rating of34 a Applicable to woven fabrics only. b Applicable to knitted fabrics only. (It is advisable not to proceed the test beyond the specified level.) c BS4768 requires that

30、 the bursting strength be expressed inkN/m 2 . The recommended unit of pressure is the pascal (Pa) and1kN/m 2is equal to1kPa. When a revision of BS4768 is published the units for expressing bursting strength will be changed tokPa. d Applicable to fabrics intended to be used for washable garments. e

31、Using the procedure in BS4923 appropriate to the instructions given on the care label. f Applicable to spun woven fabrics only. g This test is essentially applicable to knitted fabrics but can be used for textured woven polyester fabrics. The results obtained when testing woven fabrics may not be co

32、mpletely reliable. BS3838:1980 BSI 12-1999 3 Appendix A Assessment of snagging tendency of weft knitted fabrics by a mace snag tester A.1 Principle The fabric specimen is formed into a sleeve and slipped over a cylinder which is rotated at a constant speed. A spiked ball (referred to as the mace for

33、 the purposes of this standard) is suspended by a chain in such a way that some of its points rest on the fabric. The rotation causes the mace to be continuously bounced from the fabric in a random manner due to the points catching in the threads of the rotating specimen. The degree of snagging prod

34、uced is rated, under standard viewing conditions, against photographic standards. A.2.1 Four-position mace snag tester consisting of four rotating cylinders above which are suspended four spheres equipped with equi-spaced points (the mace). These are adjusted so that the points of the mace rest agai

35、nst the cylinder. A suitable machine is described inA.9. A.2.2 Gauge for setting the position of the mace. A.2.3 Template, 330mm 203mm with two slots parallel to the short side to mark the sewing line (seeFigure 1). The slot29mm from the short side is to be used for extensible fabrics and the slot16

36、mm from the short side is to be used for inextensible fabrics. A.2.4 Rubber rings for securing the test specimens onto the cylinder. A.2.5 Lockstitch sewing machine and sewing thread. A.2.6 Viewing cabinet equipped with two illuminated viewing windows. A.2.7 Specimen mounting boards appropriate to t

37、he size of the test specimen. A.2.8 Photographic snagging standards comprising nine photographs ranging from Standard5 (nosnagging) to Standard1 (severe snagging) in half-standard steps and carried on a slide. A.3 Atmosphere for conditioning and testing The atmosphere required for conditioning and t

38、esting is the standard atmosphere for testing textiles as defined in BS1051, i.e.a relative humidity of652%and a temperature of20 2 C. Figure 1 Template Figure 2 Single specimen folded for sewingBS3838:1980 4 BSI 12-1999 A.4 Sample size and preparation A.4.1 Size. Select a sample of sufficient size

39、to provide four test specimens as described inA.5. A fabric area of at least610mm 610mm is required for sampling. A.4.2 Conditioning. Prior to testing, condition all fabric samples for at least24h in the standard atmosphere for testing specified inA.3. A.5 Preparation of test specimens Using the tem

40、plate in contact with the back of the fabric cut four test specimens from the sample, two lengthways and two widthways with the appropriate sewing line marked. Mark the lengthways specimen with an arrow indicating the direction of the knitting. NOTEFor highly extensible fabrics it may be found neces

41、sary to use an alternative sewing line, as agreed between the parties concerned. The specimens shall be as representative of the sample as possible and no specimens shall contain selvedge edges. With the face of the test specimen inside, fold as shown in Figure 2 and stitch accurately along the sewi

42、ng marks. On completion turn the specimen face side out. Repeat this for the remaining test specimens. A.6 Test procedure A.6.1 Mounting. Slide one of the prepared specimens carefully over one of the cylinders of the tester keeping the seam flat, i.e.one seam edge on each side of the line of sewing.

43、 Secure the inner end of the specimen by passing one of the circular rubber rings round it and the cylinder. Smooth out any creases or fullness in the specimen and secure the outer end with another rubber ring. Repeat the procedure for the remaining three specimens. Mount the lengthways specimens on

44、 the cylinders so that the heads of the loops (direction of arrow) face to the right of the machine. NOTELengthways and widthways specimens should be placed on cylinders chosen at random, i.e.lengthways specimens should not always be put on the same two cylinders. A.6.2 Testing. With the machine at

45、rest, take each appropriate mace from its holder and place it on its specimen with the chain passing round the covered guide rod. Set the counter to the desired number of revolutions. NOTEThe recommended test is600revolutions in10min. Start the machine and check the behaviour of the maces. They shou

46、ld move freely in a random manner over the fabric surfaces and any tendency for movement to be restricted should be rectified. When the machine stops, carefully lift each mace from its specimen and return it to its individual holder. Remove the specimens from the cylinders and pair them as lengthway

47、s and widthways specimens. Figure 3 Outline sketch of mace snag testerBS3838:1980 BSI 12-1999 5 A.7 Assessment of the test specimens Take a specimen and pull it over the appropriate flat mounting board, keeping the seam at the centre back. Insert the mounted specimen into the left side of the viewin

48、g cabinet so that it is visible through the left hand viewing opening. Adjust the set of photographic standards so that one photograph at a time is visible on the right hand viewing opening. Rate the specimen for the density of snags by comparison with the standards. If the density of snags lies bet

49、ween two photographs it is given the more severe rating. Repeat this procedure for the three remaining specimens. A.8 Test report The report shall state: a) that the test was conducted in accordance with the method given in Appendix A of BS3838:1980; b) any deviations from the test method; c) the number of revolutions used; d) the sewing line used (extensible or inextensible fabric); e) the individual ratings for the two lengthways and two widthways specimens and the mean of the four results obtained. A.9 Four-position mace s