BS 5131-3 1-1991 Methods of test for footwear and footwear materials - Uppers textiles and threads - Strength of upper materials and lining materials at right angles to stitch perf.pdf

1、BRITISH STANDARD BS5131-3.1: 1991 Methods of test for Footwear and footwear materials Part3: Uppers, textiles and threads Section3.1 Strength of upper materials and lining materials at right angles to stitch perforations NOTEIt is recommended that this Section should be read in conjunction with BS51

2、31-0, published separately.BS5131-3.1:1991 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee, was published underthe authority of the BoardofBSI and comesintoeffecton 31January1991 BSI11-1999 First published February1976 Second edi

3、tion January1991 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee referenceTCM/39 Draft for comment89/36222DC ISBN 0 580 18931 7 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Textiles and Clothing Standards P

4、olicy Committee (TCM/-) to Technical Committee TCM/39, upon which the following bodies were represented: British Footwear Manufacturers Federation British Leather Confederation British Rubber Manufacturers Association British Steel plc Consumer Standards Advisory Committee of BSI Cork Industry Feder

5、ation Footwear Components Federation Footwear Distributors Federation Institute of Trading Standards Administration Iron and Steel Trades Confederation Lancashire Footwear Manufacturers Association Mail Order Traders Association of Great Britain Ministry of Defence National Union of Footwear, Leathe

6、r and Allied Trades Office of Fair Trading SATRA Footwear Technology Centre The following bodies were also represented in the drafting of the standard, through subcommittees and panels: British Adhesives and Sealants Association British Paper and Board Industry Federation British Plastics Federation

7、 Multiple Shoe Retailers Association RAPRA Technology Ltd. Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date CommentsBS5131-3.1:1991 BSI 11-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Principle 1 3 Apparatus 1 4 Conditioning 1 5 Preparation of test specimen

8、s 1 6 Procedure 1 7 Calculation and expression of results 3 8 Test report 3 Figure 1 Diagrammatic cross section of a suitable needle-holding jig 2 Figure 2 Dimensions of the test specimen 2 Table 1 Margin dimensions 1BS5131-3.1:1991 ii BSI 11-1999 Foreword This Section of BS5131 has been prepared un

9、der the direction of the Textiles and Clothing Standards Policy Committee. It supersedes BS5131-3.1:1976, which is withdrawn. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Complianc

10、e with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to3 and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated.

11、 This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS5131-3.1:1991 BSI 11-1999 1 1 Scope This Section of BS5131 describes a method for measuring the strength of an upper or lining material at the stitch line when made up into a normal seam. The method is applicable to all upper

12、 and lining materials less than3.0mm thick. 2 Principle A row of needles parallel to one edge of the material is driven through the material. An increasing force, perpendicular to the row of needles, is applied to the material until the material fails. 3 Apparatus 1) 3.1 Conditioning cabinet or room

13、, maintaining an atmosphere at20 2 C and65 2%r.h. 3.2 Round point needles,(16 1, size14). 3.3 Needle-holding jig, an example of a suitable apparatus being shown in Figure 1, with the following characteristics. a) Accommodation for a straight row of17 closely and evenly spaced size14 needles. For eac

14、h needle there is a matching hole in each of two metal plates (A and B in Figure 1) which is large enough to accommodate the needles but does not exceed1.3mm in diameter. The centres of the end needle holes in both plates are26.4 0.5mm apart. The two plates are fastened together during the test by f

15、inger-nuts and locating dowels (not shown in Figure 1). The plates do not clamp onto the test specimen when it is in position between them. b) A means of attachment to the jaws of the tensile testing apparatus(3.4) so that the direction of pull is perpendicular to the row of needles. c) A means of a

16、djusting and setting a parallel margin between the edge of the test specimen and the line of needle perforations (e.g.plate C inFigure 1). NOTEPlate C can also act as a spacer between plates A and B. 3.4 Tensile testing machine, with a rate of traverse of100 20mm/min and a range of0N to450N(0kgf to4

17、5kgf). 4 Conditioning Place the material to be tested in the conditioning cabinet or room(3.1). After48h, cut the test specimens (see clause5). Carry out the test in this atmosphere. 5 Preparation of test specimens 5.1 Where the material is either leather or a manufactured material other than a wove

18、n fabric, cut at least three test specimens as shown in Figure 2, corresponding to each of the two principal directions of the material, as follows: a) so that the line of needle perforations will be parallel to the machine direction in the case of manufactured materials and the backbone direction i

19、n the case of leather; b) so that the line of needle perforations will be parallel to the cross direction for manufactured materials and the cross backbone direction in the case of leather. 5.2 Where the material is a woven fabric, cut at least three test specimens as shown in Figure 2, correspondin

20、g to each of the two principal directions of the material, as follows: a) so that the line of needle perforations will be parallel to the warp; b) so that the line of needle perforations will be parallel to the weft. 6 Procedure 6.1 Set the margin adjustment of the needle-holding jig(3.3) to give th

21、e appropriate margin between the perforations and the test edge of the test specimen according to the type of material as given in Table 1. Table 1 Margin dimensions Align a test specimen in the jig so that the test edge (seeFigure 2) abuts against the margin stop and the end needle holes coincide w

22、ith the edges of the test specimen. Push the17 needles(3.3) through the test specimen while retaining this alignment, so that each needle passes through the holes in both metal plates, with its long groove facing away from the test edge. (The end needles will just catch the edges of the test specime

23、n.) NOTEThe easiest way of inserting the needles will depend on the material. With plastics-coated fabrics it is easier to insert the needles, one by one, with the fabric aligned in the assembled jig; with other materials, all the needles can be positioned in one plate and the material pierced by al

24、l17needles simultaneously as the jig is reassembled. 1) For information on the availability of suitable apparatus to perform this test, apply to Enquiry Section, BSI, Linford Wood, Milton Keynes MK146LE quoting the number of this standard and the clause number referring to the items concerned. Enclo

25、se a stamped addressed envelope for reply. Material Margin Elastics and open weave fabrics All other upper and lining materials mm 6.0 0.5 3.0 0.5BS5131-3.1:1991 2 BSI 11-1999 Figure 1 Diagrammatic cross section of a suitable needle-holding jig NOTE 1Dimensions marked thus * need only be approximate

26、. Figure 2 Dimensions of the test specimenBS5131-3.1:1991 BSI 11-1999 3 6.2 Clamp the jig centrally in the movable jaws of the tensile testing machine(3.4) and clamp the free end of the first test specimen centrally in the other jaws so that the pull is perpendicular to the row of needles. Start the

27、 machine traverse at a rate of100mm/min and record the force continuously. Note the force at which failure occurs in the test specimen and which of the following types of failure has taken place: a) tearing along the line of needle perforations; b) pulling off of those yarns which are parallel to th

28、e needle perforations and which lie between the needles and the test edge of the test specimen; c) tearing by each needle through the material to the test edge; d) failure of the material at such a distance from the needle perforations that the failure was not associated with the seam. NOTEThe failu

29、re given ind) above is not directly relevant to the strength of the seam, and consequently for the purposes of this test it is referred to as an invalid failure. However, there are materials for which it is the only type of failure that occurs. 6.3 Repeat the procedure on the second and third test s

30、pecimens cut in the same direction with respect to the sheet run of the material. Examine each of the three test specimens and determine which type of failure has occurred i.e.a),b),c) ord) of6.2. Do not carry out any further tests if either of the following apply. a) All three test specimens exhibi

31、t the same type of failure i.e.a),b),c) ord) of6.2. b) Two test specimens exhibit the same type of valid failure i.e.a),b) orc) of6.2 and the third test specimen exhibits an invalid failure i.e.d)of6.2. Cut two additional test specimens in the same direction as the three specimens already tested wit

32、h respect to the sheet run of the material and repeat the procedure described in6.2 on both of these two additional test specimens, if any of the following apply. 1) Two test specimens exhibit the same type of valid failure and one test specimen exhibits a different type of valid failure. 2) The thr

33、ee test specimens each exhibit a different type of valid failure. 3) Either one or two of the test specimens exhibits invalid failure but itemb) above does not apply i.e., two specimens exhibit different types of valid failure. NOTEThe purpose of this additional testing is to reveal which type of va

34、lid failure is most common and to obtain force readings for this type of failure. 6.4 Carry out the procedure described in6.1, 6.2 and6.3 on those test specimens which were cut in the other principal direction of sheet run of the material. 7 Calculation and expression of results Calculate and record

35、 the mean force at the time of failure where more than one test specimen exhibits the same type of failure (see6.2) for each type of failure observed. Repeat this for each principal direction of the material. Where only one test specimen exhibits a particular type of failure, discard the result. Whe

36、re the tensile testing machine is calibrated in newtons, multiply each mean value by0.04 and express the result, in each case, in newtons per millimetre width of the test specimen. (Where the tensile testing machine is calibrated in kilogramforce, multiply each mean value by0.4 and express the resul

37、t, in each case, in kilogramforce per centimetre width of the test specimen.) 8 Test report The test report shall include the following items: a) results, expressed in accordance with clause7; b) type(s) of failure occurring as defined in6.2; c) width of margin(3.0mm or6.0mm); d) nature and full ide

38、ntification of the material; e) reference to this method of test, i.e. BS5131-3.1; f) date of testing.BS5131-3.1: 1991 BSI 389 Chiswick High Road London W4 4AL BSIBritishStandardsInstitution BSI is the independent national body responsible for preparing BritishStandards. It presents the UK view on s

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