1、BRITISH STANDARD BS5131-5.11: 1981 Methods of test for Footwear and footwear materials Part5: Testing of complete footwear Section5.11 Determination of the strength of buckle fastening assemblies NOTEIt is recommended that this Section should be read in conjunction with the information intheGeneral
2、introduction to BS5131, published separately. UDC685.31:620.1:685.312.16:620.17BS5131-5.11:1981 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Clothing Standards Committee, was published under the authority ofthe Board of BSI and comesintoeffect on 30 November1981 BSI09-1999 T
3、he following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference CLT/7 Draft for comment78/35761 DC ISBN 0 580 12387 1 Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS5131-5.11:1981 BSI 09-1999 i Contents Page 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Principle 1 4 Apparat
4、us 1 5 Conditioning and testing atmosphere 2 6 Test pieces 2 7 Procedure 3 8 Test report 3 Figure 5.11/1a Buckle attached directly to a closed-in quarter 4 Figure 5.11/1b Type A test piece cut from the upper of Figure 5.11/1a 5 Figure 5.11/2a Buckle attached by a chape to a sling-back strap 6 Figure
5、 5.11/2b Type A test piece cut from the upper of Figure 5.11/2a 7 Figure 5.11/3a Buckle attached to an integral strap 8 Figure 5.11/3b Type A test piece cut from the upper of Figure 5.11/3a 9 Figure 5.11/4a Buckle attached to a closed-in counter by a buckle loop 10 Figure 5.11/4b Type A test piece c
6、ut from the upper of Figure 5.11/4a 11 Figure 5.11/5a Buckle attached to a closed-in quarter via a separate buckel loop 12 Figure 5.11/5b Type A test piece cut from the upper of Figure 5.11/5a 13 Figure 5.11/6a Buckle attached directly to a sling-back strap 14 Figure 5.11/6b Type A test piece cut fr
7、om the upper of Figure 5.11/6a 14 Figure 5.11/7 Buckle strap attached to a sling-back strap 15 Figure 5.11/8a Buckle strap attached to a sling-back strap 16 Figure 5.11/8b General view of type B test piece cut from the upper of Figure 5.11/8a showing the two strips which need to be sewn on 17 Figure
8、 5.11/8c Enlargement of part of Figure 5.11/8b showing the position of attachment of the strips 18 Figure 5.11/9 Buckle strap ending in a loop which can slide along themainstrap 19BS5131-5.11:1981 ii BSI 09-1999 A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contrac
9、t. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pagesi andii, pages1 to19 and a back cover. This s
10、tandard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS5131-5.11:1981 BSI 09-1999 1 1 Scope This Section describes a method for determining the strength of buckle fastenings in completed footwe
11、ar. The test in the form described measures the strength of the weakest link in the functional assembly. It is not suitable for measuring any strength property of the buckle on its own. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this Section of BS5131, the following definitions apply. 2.1 buckle fastening as
12、sembly the complete assembly in footwear consisting of a fastening strap passing through a buckle which is attached either to the upper directly, or indirectly via a buckle strap 2.2 buckle strap a strap, incorporated in some designs of shoe upper, to which the buckle is attached permanently at or n
13、ear one end so that the longitudinal axis of the buckle (the direction at right angles to the centre bar of the buckle) is parallel to the length of the strap (see note1). The attachment of the buckle by stitching (Figure 5.11/1b), staples (Figure 5.11/6b), a chape (Figure 5.11/2b), or by the end of
14、 the strap being looped round the buckle bar and then stitched to itself or to the main part of the upper (seeFigure 5.11/4b and note2). Usually the other end of the buckle strap is attached to or is integral with the main part of the shoe upper, but occasionally it is lasted under the insole NOTE 1
15、Where the buckle is attached to a strap but its longitudinal axis is not parallel to the length of the strap (e.g.as in many sling-back styles), this is not treated in this Section as a buckle strap. NOTE 2This last mentioned is often called a buckle loop, but in this Section it is tested in the sam
16、e way as other forms of buckle strap. 2.3 fastening strap the strap which is inserted through the buckle by the wearer to do the shoes up, and which normally contains several alternative fastening holes for the buckle prong to allow for variations in the girth of feet at the instep (Figure 5.11/1a)
17、2.4 buckle prong the prong which is inserted through the hole in the fastening strap (Figure 5.11/1b) 2.5 buckle bar the bar across the middle of the buckle to which the prong is attached in such a way that it can be rotated about this bar (Figure 5.11/1b) 2.6 buckle frame the perimeter of the buckl
18、e which gives it its shape and character (Figure 5.11/1b) 2.7 roller a metal tube surrounding that part of the frame on which the prong rests when the buckle is fastened (Figure 5.11/2b). (N.B. Not all buckles have a roller.) 2.8 keeper the side of the buckle frame opposite to the side on which the
19、prong rests and which holds down the end of the fastening strap when the buckle is fastened (Figure 5.11/1b) 2.9 chape 1) a metal part in some buckles to which the buckle bar is fixed and via which the buckle is riveted to the shoe upper (Figure 5.11/2b) 3 Principle The buckle and fastening strap ar
20、e fastened in the normal way, and a test piece is cut from the shoe such that the fastening strap can be gripped in one jaw of a tensile testing machine and the upper, to which the buckle or buckle strap is attached, in the other jaw. The tensile force is increased gradually until some part of the t
21、est piece fails. The force at failure and the type and position of the failure are recorded. 4 Apparatus The following apparatus is required. 4.1 Conditioning cabinet or room capable of maintaining an atmosphere at20 2 C and652% relative humidity. 4.2 Tensile testing machine with a range of0N to500N
22、 and a jaw separation rate of100 20 mm/min. The jaws should be at least32mm wide for type A and type C test pieces, as explained in6.1, but for type B test pieces one jaw needs to be up to80mm wide. It is recommended that the jaws be rubber faced to reduce the risk of breaks at the jaw. 1) Sometimes
23、 referred to as a “clasp”.BS5131-5.11:1981 2 BSI 09-1999 The jaws should have a jointed attachment to the testing machine to allow for any slight misalignment of the test piece on clamping. 5 Conditioning and testing atmosphere Condition the prepared test pieces for48hours in an atmosphere at20 2 C
24、and65 2% relative humidity. Carry out the test in this standard atmosphere, or alternatively, carry out the test under ambient conditions and report as such. 6 Test pieces 6.1 General. A number of shoe uppers incorporating buckles for fastening are shown in Figure 5.11/1a, Figure 5.11/2a, Figure 5.1
25、1/3a, Figure 5.11/4a, Figure 5.11/5a, Figure 5.11/6a, Figure 5.11/7, Figure 5.11/8a and Figure 5.11/9 and enlarged views of test pieces (omitting the fastening strap for clarity) are shown in Figure 5.11/1b, Figure 5.11/2b, Figure 5.11/3b, Figure 5.11/4b, Figure 5.11/5b and Figure 5.11/6b. They do n
26、ot cover all the designs which may be encountered but serve to illustrate the principles which need to be followed in preparing test pieces. Use one of the three types of test pieces listed below, depending on the design of the upper. Type A. For use where the buckle or buckle strap is attached to a
27、 part of the upper which is large enough to be gripped in the jaw of the tensile testing machine as shown in Figure 5.11/1b, Figure 5.11/2b, Figure 5.11/4b, Figure 5.11/5b, Figure 5.11/6b and Figure 5.11/7. Also for use where the buckle strap is integral with the shoe upper (Figure 5.11/3b). Type B.
28、 For use where the buckle or buckle strap is attached to a main strap which is not large enough to be gripped in the jaw of the tensile testing machine (see note). Strips of leather are sewn to the main strap on each side of the buckle or buckle strap, as shown in Figure 5.11/8b and Figure 5.11/8c,
29、and these straps are gripped in the tensile machine jaw. Type C. For use where the buckle strap is not attached to any other part of the upper. Wherever possible prepare and test pieces taken from at least two shoes. NOTEIf the upper design permits, use test piece type A in preference to type B. Typ
30、e B test pieces will normally be needed where the distance from the rear point of the buckle attachment or buckle strap attachment to the edge of the main strap is less than25mm (seeFigure 5.11/8a). 6.2 Type A test pieces. For shoes with closed-in quarters, mark on the upper the approximate position
31、 and direction of the longitudinal axis of the buckle or buckle strap (the direction being at right angles to the buckle bar). Draw two new lines about25mm on each side of the axis and parallel to it. Cut through the whole upper (including stiffener and lining) along these lines from the top line to
32、 the feather edge (seeFigure 5.11/1a, Figure 5.11/2a, Figure 5.11/3a, Figure 5.11/4a and Figure 5.11/5a). Then cut through the upper along the feather edge to remove a panel to which the buckle or buckle strap is attached. For shoes or sandals with a sling-back or similar strap, cut through this str
33、ap both at the back of the heel and close to the feather edge (seeFigure 5.11/6a and Figure 5.11/7). Flatten the cut off strap or cut out panel (the stiffener may be removed from it if it plays no part in the buckle attachment) and draw the buckle or buckle strap longitudinal axis more accurately. D
34、raw two lines parallel to and15mm on either side of the longitudinal axis. These mark the sides of the test piece. Draw a line across the test piece15mm behind the rear point of the attachment of the buckle or buckle strap, i.e.the rear of the buckle staples or thread bar tack (as shown in Figure 5.
35、11/1b, Figure 5.11/3b and Figure 5.11/6b), or the rear of the buckle chape attachment (Figure 5.11/2b), or the rearmost row of stitching attaching the buckle strap to the upper (Figure 5.11/4b and Figure 5.11/5b). If, however, this line passes over the underlay of the buckle strap, draw it immediate
36、ly behind the end of the underlay. This is the clamping line which is aligned with the front edge of the jaws of the tensile machine during the test. If this clamping line cannot be drawn on the upper of a sling-back strap because it is too small, or if any part of the clamping line is within10mm of
37、 that edge of the sling-back strap which is further from the buckle (seeFigure 5.11/6b) then the standard size type A test piece cannot be cut and the type B test piece is recommended instead. However, if there are difficulties in preparing a type B test piece, it is still permissible to use a type
38、A test piece with the clamping line moved nearer the rear point of the buckle/buckle strap attachment, provided this distance is not less than5mm and the jaw does not clamp on a buckle strap underlay. Where this distance is not15mm, state its value in the report. After verifying that a type A test p
39、iece can be used, cut along the marked side lines of the test piece. NOTE 1It is suggested that the first test piece be tested before the others are cut along the marked side lines, in case their dimensions need to be modified (see clause7).BS5131-5.11:1981 BSI 09-1999 3 NOTE 2In the case of an inte
40、gral strap, it is likely that the test piece will not be30mm wide at the clamping line, e.g.as in Figure 5.11/3b, but this will not prevent a valid test being carried out. NOTE 3If no part of the test piece in the clamp is30mm wide then the preparation procedure just described produces a type C test
41、 piece. Cut off the fastening strap about60mm behind the second fastening hole (seeFigure 5.11/1a to Figure 5.11/9). Insert the fastening strap through the buckle and do up with the buckle prong through the second fastening hole. 6.3 Type B test pieces. These will normally only be required for shoe
42、uppers in which the buckle or buckle strap is attached to a narrow main strap such as a sling-back strap (Figure 5.11/8a shows an example). Cut through the sling-back or similar strap both at the back of the heel and close to the feather edge. Flatten the cut off piece of strap and mark on it the lo
43、ngitudinal axis of the buckle or buckle strap. For each test piece, cut two strips of upper leather (side leather1.5mm to2.0mm thick should be suitable)80mm long and25mm wide. Sew these to the main strap on each side of the buckle or buckle strap, as shown in Figure 5.11/8b and Figure 5.11/8c, so th
44、at the distance between the edge of the strips and the attachment of the buckle or buckle strap is7mm. Draw a clamping line across both strips which is15mm behind the rear point of the buckle or buckle strap attachment to the main strap. In some shoe designs the buckle strap ends in a loop which can
45、 slide along the main strap (Figure 5.11/9 shows an example). In these cases, determine where the buckle strap would normally be by trying the shoe on a suitable foot and sew the additional strips on either side of this position. Cut off the fastening strap and attach it to the buckle, as described
46、in6.2. 6.4 Type C test pieces. For the standard size test piece, cut off the buckle strap at least25mm behind the rear point of the buckle attachment. Mark a clamping line15mm behind this rear point of attachment. Where the buckle strap is not long enough to provide the standard size of test piece,
47、it is permissible to reduce the length of strap cut off, provided the reduced distance from the clamping line to the rear point of the buckle attachment is not less than5mm and the distance from the clamping line to the cut off end of the strap is10mm. In some upper designs the buckle strap is laste
48、d under the insole and has a sling-back strap sewn to it. In such cases it is recommended that the clamping line be drawn15mm behind this stitching so that this attachment is included in the test. Cut off the fastening strap and attach it to the buckle, as described in6.2. 7 Procedure Insert the buc
49、kle half of the test piece centrally in one jaw of the tensile machine so that the edge of the jaw aligns with the clamping line drawn across the test piece. Check that the jaws do not clamp on any part of a buckle strap underlay. If they do, move the test piece out until the underlay is clear of the jaws. Also check that they grip along the front edge when tightened. If they do not appear to be doing this, insert a packing piece of a suitable thickness in the rear half of the jaws so that they close correctly. Alternatively, if a pack
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