BS 6453-1984 Specification for performance of leathers for garments《服装用皮革性能规范》.pdf

1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 6453:1984 Specification for Performance of leathers for garments UDC 675:687.1BS6453:1984 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Textile Productsand Leather StandardsCommittee, was published under the authorityofthe Executive Boardand comes into eff

2、ect on 29 February 1984 BSI 12-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TLM/27 Draft for comment 82/38020 DC ISBN 0 580 13586 1 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Textile Pro

3、ducts and Leather Standards Committee (TLM/-) to Technical Committee TLM/27 upon which the following bodies were represented: British Clothing Industry Association British Leather Federation British Leather Manufacturers Research Association International Wool Secretariat Mail Order Traders Associat

4、ion of Great Britain Ministry of Defence Society of Leather Technologists and Chemists Textile Research Council Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date of issue CommentsBS6453:1984 BSI 12-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3

5、 Performance 1 4 Sampling 1 5 Marking 1 Appendix A Method for measurement of adhesion of finish to leather 3 Appendix B Method for determination of the cold crack temperature 7 Figure 1 Leather finish adhesion tester 5 Figure 2 Position of test specimens on leather sample 6 Figure 3 Arrangement of m

6、etal plates on test specimens 6 Figure 4 Bonding of metal plates to leather test specimens 7 Figure 5 Prepared test specimen in test position 7 Figure 6 Refrigerated cabinet 9 Figure 7 Hinged apparatus 9 Figure 8 Open position 9 Figure 9 Closed position 9 Table 1 Performance requirements for all gar

7、ment leathers 2 Table 2 Additional performance requirements for grain garment leathers 2 Publications referred to Inside back coverBS6453:1984 ii BSI 12-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Textile Products and Leather Standards Committee at the request of

8、 leather manufacturers. It specifies performance requirements for suede leathers, grain leathers and wool sheepskins, which are to be made into garments, in order to achieve a satisfactory end product for the consumer. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a

9、contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Compliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside front cover, pages i and ii, pages 1 to 10, an inside ba

10、ck cover and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS6453:1984 BSI 12-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard specifies performance requirements for leathers to

11、be used in the manufacture of garments. It is applicable to suede leather, grain leathers (including simulated grain leathers) and wool sheepskins but excludes furs. NOTEThe titles of the publications referred to in this standard are listed on the inside back cover. 2 Definitions For the purposes of

12、 this British Standard, the definitions given in BS2780 apply, together with the following. 2.1 cold crack temperature the highest temperature at which the finish of a leather will crack when the leather is folded quickly once, grain outwards 3 Performance Leathers shall meet the requirements given

13、inTable 1 and Table 2, as appropriate, when tested by the methods specified. For wool sheepskins, both surfaces shall comply with the requirements. NOTETable 1 is applicable to all leathers, Table 2 gives additional requirements for grain leathers. 4 Sampling Samples shall be taken for testing in ac

14、cordance with method1 of BS3144. 5 Marking Each unit pack containing leathers shall be marked with the following: a) the number and date of this British Standard,i.e.BS6453:1984 1) ; b) the suppliers and/or tanners name and identification mark, trademark or batch identity; c) cleansing instructions

15、in accordance with the recommendations and terminology of BS2747. NOTE 1It is recommended that made-up garments should be marked either: a) “Made only from leather which complies with BS6453:1984 1) ”; or (in the case of trims) b) “Contains only leather which complies with BS6453:1984 1) ”. NOTE 2Th

16、e term wool sheepskin may be used instead of leather where appropriate. 1) Marking BS 6453:1984 on or in relation to a product is a claim by the manufacturer that the product has been manufactured to the requirements of the standard. The accuracy of such a claim is therefore solely the manufacturers

17、 responsibility. Enquiries as to the availability of third party certification to support such claims should be addressed to the Director, Quality Assurance Division, Maylands Avenue, Hemel Hempstead, Herts HP24SQ in the case of certification marks administered by BSI or to the appropriate authority

18、 for other certification marks.BS6453:1984 2 BSI 12-1999 Table 1 Performance requirements for all garment leathers Table 2 Additional performance requirements for grain or simulated grain garment leathers Property to be assessed Test procedure Compliance requirements Tear strength BS 3144 (method 6)

19、 An average of not less than 17 N with no single specimen having a tear strength of less than 13 N when tested in the official sampling position Dimensional stability to dry cleaning BS 4961-1 a Maximum area shrinkage 6% Maximum area extension3% b Colour fastness to light BS 1006, section B02 (metho

20、d 2) Minimum 3-4 Colour fastness to dry cleaning BS 1006, section D01 Maximum change in shade 3 Colour fastness of surface to rubbing BS 1006, section UK-LG Maximum change in shade 3 after 50 cycles (wet) and 200 cycles (dry) Colour fastness to perspiration BS 1006, section UK-LF c Maximum change in

21、 shade 3 Maximum staining 3 Colour fastness to water BS 1006, section UK-LD Maximum change in shade 3 Maximum staining 3 a Modify the procedure given in BS 4961-1 so that airing off is limited to 30 min in the machine with the effluent air temperature at a maximum of 60 C. b The dimensional changes

22、allowed do not imply that garments in wear will have this tolerance after dry cleaning. Experiments have shown that leathers giving this degree of area change in the test when processed as garments by normal commercial procedures with reoiling can be restored to their original dimensions. c Adjust t

23、he artificial perspiration solution to pH 5.0. Property to be assessed Test procedure Compliance requirements Fastness of finish to dry cleaning BS 1006, section D01 No significant change in appearance a Adhesion of finish to leather Appendix A of this standard Dry, 2 N/10 mm minimum Wet, 1 N/10 mm

24、minimum Cold crack temperature Appendix B of this standard 5 C maximum a This requirement has been included to ensure that grain leathers which are in accordance with the colour fastness to dry cleaning requirement specified in Table 1 do not comply with the standard if the dry cleaning procedure re

25、sults in partial or complete loss of finish.BS6453:1984 BSI 12-1999 3 Appendix A Method for measurement of adhesion of finish to leather A.1 Principle One end of a piece of leather under test is stuck, finish side down, to a metal strip, by a selected adhesive, chosen to give an adequate bond betwee

26、n the finish and the metal without affecting the adhesion of the finish to the leather. When the adhesive is fully set or cured, increasing force is applied to the loose end of the leather until the finish peels away from the leather. The load required to peel the finish is recorded. A.2 Apparatus a

27、nd reagents A.2.1 Metal plates, measuring10 0.5mm wide and approximately75mm long and3to3.5mm thick. One plate is required for each pair of leather test specimens. A.2.2 Metal square, with sides65mm long and a mass of150g, covered on one side with a soft rubber sheet2mm thick. A.2.3 Clamp and stand,

28、 to hold the metal strip and test specimens and strong enough to support loads of up to2kg. A.2.4 Means of applying small successive additions of load, without shock, to a holder attached to the loose end of the leather. For example, weights of25g or50g can be placed on a simple scale pan of known m

29、ass (preferably50g) attached to the leather by means of a hook. A suitable apparatus of this type is shown inFigure 1. 2) A.2.5 Adhesive. Different adhesives give different results on the same leather. For most leather finishes, an epoxy resin adhesive with a pot life of about1h at20 C, mixed with a

30、n equal part by mass of a curing agent and having a cure time of48h, has been found suitable. A.2.6 Pure light petroleum ether, boiling point range60 C to80 C. A.3 Test specimens Cut a sample of leather measuring130mm in length by70mm in width from the official sampling position described in clause1

31、 of BS3144:1968, or from another agreed position. Cut one piece for dry tests and another piece for wet tests. Figure 2 shows the sample of leather taken for testing and the shaded areas show the actual area of test specimens required. NOTEThe adhesion across a skin or side varies appreciably in som

32、e cases and for interlaboratory comparisons it is desirable to allocate the test specimens in such a way that adjacent specimens are sent to each laboratory rather than adjacent sample blocks. A.4 Preparation of test specimens A.4.1 Scour the metal plates with “A” weight gradeP400abrasive paper in a

33、ccordance with BS871 so that the surface is clean and flat with a fine matt finish. Immerse them in petroleum ether for a few seconds to remove grease and wipe with a piece of grease-free cotton wool (medical quality) to remove all dirt. A.4.2 Cut the leather into two pieces for three test specimens

34、 “along” and three “across” (seeFigure 2). Turn the “across” sample through a right-angle and place it against the “along” sample. Soak a piece of grease-free cotton wool (medical quality) in petroleum ether and then wring it almost dry. Wipe this gently over the grain surface of the leather test sp

35、ecimens and the surfaces of the metal plates being careful not to contaminate the cleaned surfaces, for example with grease from the fingers. A.4.3 When the petroleum ether has evaporated, smear the adhesive lightly over the cleaned surface of the metal plates and the area of leather to be tested, a

36、pplying the thinnest possible continuous film of adhesive. NOTEA glass or nylon scraper is a suitable tool. A.4.4 Place three metal plates, adhesive side down, on to the two pieces of leather as shown inFigure 3. Press the plates firmly down and ensure that sufficient adhesive has been used by notin

37、g slight exudation at the edges of the plates. It is important that there should be no more than3min between coating of the metal strip with adhesive and combination with the leather to prevent exposure to moisture and dust. A.4.5 Place the metal square on the metal plates (seeFigure 4). Place a wei

38、ght having a mass of approximately1350g centrally on the metal square, so that the total load of approximately1500g (500g per plate) is applied evenly to all of the adhesive bonds. NOTEA.4.2, A.4.4 and A.4.5 describe the use of one piece of leather to provide six test specimens. If separate test spe

39、cimens are used these should be at least50mm long and13mm wide, but the method is essentially the same. A.4.6 When the joints are fully set or cured, remove the weight and metal square, trim the leather test specimens to the width of the metal plate by cutting along the edges of the plate with a pai

40、r of sharp scissors or a scalpel. To avoid edge effects make sure that no adhesive is left on the edges of the metal plate. Gently sever the bond between the short edge of the metal plate and each test specimen,i.e.at “A” inFigure 5, separating leather and metal for about1.5mm. 2) For information on

41、 the availability of such apparatus apply to Enquiry Section (London), British Standards Institution, quoting the number of this standard and enclosing a stamped addressed envelope for reply.BS6453:1984 4 BSI 12-1999 A.4.7 Punch a small hole of sufficient diameter to accommodate an S-hook in the fre

42、e end of the test specimens and about5mm from the end. A.5 Procedure A.5.1 Adhesion of finish under dry conditions A.5.1.1 Place the metal plate horizontally in the stand over the supporting rod so that the affixed leather is on the underside (seeFigure 5). Insert an S-hook in the hole in the end of

43、 the leather strip to be tested and attach the scale pan of known mass to the hook. Depress the lever at the base of the stand slowly to allow the mass of the pan to pull on the leather strip. This represents the first test equal to50g (mass of the pan assembly). A.5.1.2 Release the lever slowly unt

44、il the pan rests on its platform. Carefully add successive additional weights centrally to prevent swinging, freeing the pan for each addition by means of the lever, until the leather shows signs of beginning to peel away from the metal plate. Up to this stage the weights may be added as quickly as

45、is convenient. Continue adding weights at10s intervals until separation has occurred over at least two thirds of the area of the bond. Use25g increments until the total load reaches400g and thereafter use50g increments. A.5.1.3 When separation has occurred, add together the total mass of the weights

46、 on the pan and the mass of the scale pan. Calculate from this the force (in N/10mm) and express the result as the adhesion of the finish. A.5.1.4 Note the type of separation which occurred and describe it as one of the following: a) normal peeling,i.e.for a length not less than10mm and covering90%

47、of the width of the test specimen; b) plate to adhesive failure; c) adhesive to finish failure; d) finish coats separating; e) adhesion of finish failing in patches; f) leather torn (grain coming away or tearing into corium). If adhesion failure b) or c), indicating an unsatisfactory adhesive or poo

48、r preparation of test specimens, occurred, repeat the entire procedure using a different adhesive or a new sample of leather. A.5.2 Adhesion of finish under wet conditions A.5.2.1 After preparation and trimming (seeA.4), immerse the metal plates and attached leather strips in distilled water for20mi

49、n, rubbing the flesh side with the finger to facilitate penetration. Remove the plate and blot off excess moisture from the metal and leather. Allow to stand in air for10min in the laboratory. A.5.2.2 Proceed as inA.5.1.1 to A.5.1.4. A.6 Test report The test report shall state either: a) the adhesion of the finish on the individual test specimens with the type of failure (seeA.5.1.4); b) the average adhesion in each direction (and for each location) together with the lowest individual value and type of failure.BS6453:1984 BSI 12-1999 5 F