BS 7754-1994 Code of practice for garment evaluation by wearer trials《服装试穿评定实用规程》.pdf

1、BRITISH STANDARD BS 7754:1994 Code of practice for Garment evaluation by wearer trialsBS7754:1994 This British Standard, having been prepared under the directionof the Sector Board forMaterials and Chemicals, waspublished under the authorityof the Standards Boardand comes intoeffecton 15October1994

2、BSI 08-1999 The following BSI references relate to the work on this standard: Committee reference TCI/24 Draft for comment 93/304466 DC ISBN 0 580 23151 8 Committees responsible for this British Standard The preparation of this British Standard was entrusted by the Sector Board for Materials and Che

3、micals to Technical Committee TCI/24, upon which the following bodies were represented: Association of Consulting Scientists Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry British Nonwovens Manufacturers Association British Polyolefin Textiles Association British Textile Confederation Bri

4、tish Textile Machinery Association British Textile Technology Group British Throwsters Association Furniture Industry Research Association International Wool Secretariat Ministry of Defence National Wool Textile Export Corporation SATRA Footwear Technology Centre Society of Dyers and Colourists Text

5、ile Finishers Association Textile Institute Amendments issued since publication Amd. No. Date CommentsBS7754:1994 BSI 08-1999 i Contents Page Committees responsible Inside front cover Foreword ii 1 Scope 1 2 Definitions 1 3 Wear trial design 1 4 Selection of wearer panel 2 5 Analysis 3 6 Report 6 An

6、nex A (informative) Examples of a wear trial questionnaire and a wearer record 7 Figure 1 Example of a user detail chart 3 Figure A.1 Example of a wear trial questionnaire 7 Figure A.2 Example of a wearer record 8 Table 1 Example of typical trial plan for 20 wearers with 12 replications over five va

7、riations of the test article 3 Table 2 Example of typical trial plan for 15 wearers with 10 replications over three variations of the test article 3BS7754:1994 ii BSI 08-1999 Foreword This British Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Sector Board for Materials and Chemicals. It prov

8、ides guidelines for carrying out performance tests on garments and providing data on which to base predictions about the expected wear performance. When developing new test methods, revising existing methods or preparing standards of performance, there is a need to relate either the results obtained

9、 from laboratory tests or specification requirements to what happens in actual consumer/user practice. Test methods and performance criteria for textiles are usually evaluated by wearer trials. As a code of practice, this British Standard takes the form of guidance and recommendations. It should not

10、 be quoted as if it were a specification and particular care should be taken to ensure that claims of compliance are not misleading. A British Standard does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users of British Standards are responsible for their correct application. Co

11、mpliance with a British Standard does not of itself confer immunity from legal obligations. In particular, attention is drawn to Statutory Instrument 1986 No. 26, the Textile Products (Indications of Fibre Content) Regulations 1986. Summary of pages This document comprises a front cover, an inside f

12、ront cover, pages i and ii, pages1 to 8 and a back cover. This standard has been updated (see copyright date) and may have had amendments incorporated. This will be indicated in the amendment table on the inside front cover.BS7754:1994 BSI 08-1999 1 1 Scope This British Standard contains recommendat

13、ions for carrying out performance tests on garments and providing data on which predictions concerning the expected wear performance of garments under end-use conditions can be based. The wearer trials described in this standard cover the total performance of the article over a fixed time scale or t

14、he examination of a limited number of parameters, e.g.pilling or abrasion. 2 Definitions For the purposes of this British Standard the following definitions apply. 2.1 wearer trial controlled trial carried out on an item of textile apparel in which the item is worn 2.2 wearer person participating in

15、 a trial by wearing the item of apparel 2.3 trial coordinator person responsible for setting up, overseeing and co-ordinating all aspects of the trial 2.4 assistant coordinator person responsible for overseeing the running of the trial in the field 2.5 observer person responsible for observing the t

16、rial in the field 2.6 population any identifiable group of persons for whom the garment is to be supplied 3 Wear trial design 3.1 Purpose of wear trials Wear trials may serve one or more purposes, for example: a) to evaluate the suitability of test methods; b) to provide data for the preparation of

17、performance standards; c) to determine the performance of new or existing products, by comparison with products of known performance; d) to determine the suitability of existing products for new end uses; e) to evaluate the interaction between wear and different textile substrates, processes or comb

18、inations of textile products; f) to evaluate the interaction between wear and the articles design and construction; g) to enable the subjective assessment of parameters that are difficult or impossible to evaluate under laboratory conditions. Before deciding on the type of trial to be used and commm

19、encing any trials, the following factors should be agreed between the trial coordinator and the instigators of the trial. 1) Who is to control the trial. 2) The number of parameters to be examined. 3) The number of articles to undergo a trial. 4) The size range. 5) Whether the group of wearers is to

20、 be all male, all female or a combination of male and female. 6) How often the test items are to be examined and by whom. 7) Whether the cleansing or refurbishing is to be carried out by the wearer, or by a centrally controlled source. 8) How often the items are to be cleansed or refurbished. 9) Whe

21、ther the item is to be: i) worn or used until the end point; or ii) worn or used for a fixed time. NOTEIf the former, it should be agreed whether the wearer or the trial coordinator should decide the end point. If the latter, the time scale selected should be based on the style of article and expect

22、ed life. For the maximum advantage to be obtained from a trial, the wearers should be provided with as much information as possible about the reasons for the trial, what to look for and what is expected of them. This information can be provided at informal meetings or interviews, or as written infor

23、mation. In each case the structure and content of the information should be such as to be readily understood by the wearer. When children are to participate, the information should be capable of being understood both by the parent or guardian and by the child.BS7754:1994 2 BSI 08-1999 3.2 Small-scal

24、e limited parameter trials with close control over the wearers The conditions in which this type of trial is carried out are clearly defined. It is mostly applicable to development of products, or investigation of complaints by consumers. Comparison of the results of laboratory tests is better achie

25、ved using larger-scale trials, if the cost permits. However, small-scale trials can yield useful data if care is taken in setting up the trial and analysing the results. Precise guidelines on the length of time worn/used, the frequency of cleansing and any other requirements are given to the wearers

26、 together with a questionnaire to be completed during the trial. It may be considered desirable to collect the articles for washing or dry cleaning after a period of wear and also to inspect them at this stage. Undoubtedly this will lengthen the time taken to complete the trial, but it could provide

27、 useful information and will also remove one variable from the trial. An example of a questionnaire is given in Annex A. For normal apparel trials, there should be approximately 10 to 12 replications. Too few replications can lead to erroneous results while too many will increase both the cost and t

28、he time scale for completion. Examples of typical trial plans are given in Table 1 and Table 2. Other schemes of selection are acceptable providing an overall random nature is maintained. The variations in Table 1 and Table 2 may be due to article design, variations in fabric or yarn, modifications

29、in processing or any other differences between the articles under test. At least one of the items under test should be a standard product of known performance, to which the others may be compared. It is not good practice to make more than one alteration for each variation as a combination of effects

30、 may lead to incorrect conclusions. Wearers of similar height and weight should be randomized across the trial. This will help to prevent the size of the wearer from affecting the results of the trial; it may also highlight the effect of any variations in size of the wearers on the wear characterist

31、ics of the garment. 3.3 Large-scale trials with little or no control over the wearers When carrying out large-scale trials it is extremely unlikely that either: a) it will be possible to have absolute control over the wearers; or b) all questionnaires, records of use and wearer details will be compl

32、eted with accuracy. The organizations that use large-scale trials should take this into account. In addition to the trial coordinator one or more assistant coordinators should be delegated to monitor the trial in the field on a continuous basis at each location where the trial is to take place. Thes

33、e assistants should make day-to-day decisions on the progress of the trial, should remove test garments if necessary and should record the general conditions under which the garments have been worn or used and, where relevant, cleansed. The comments of the wearers should also be noted as the trial p

34、roceeds. Questionnaires similar to that inAnnex A should be used, modified where appropriate. The trials should normally be multi-functional, possibly examining design, fabric type, aesthetics and suitability for purpose at the same time. The new test item should be compared, under the same conditio

35、ns, with an established product. The use of interviews or informal meetings with the wearers can prove invaluable in providing additional information. The meetings should be held either during the trial or as soon as possible after the trial so as to avoid lapses in memory. 4 Selection of wearer pan

36、el For any organization that carries out wearer trials on a regular basis, a permanent panel of wearers should be established. When the purpose of the trial is to examine only one or two parameters and the trial is closely controlled, a panel of20persons will normally be sufficient to provide an ade

37、quate number of replications and comparison of products within an acceptable time scale. The persons selected for the panel should represent as closely as possible the population for which the apparel is intended. A larger sample should be used when close control is not possible, or the wearers are

38、allowed total freedom in use and care of the article, and/or if the total performance of the article is to be assessed. Under these circumstances a panel of at least 50 persons should be used for each of the variations to be compared. The wear characteristics of textile products can be significantly

39、 affected by the use. As much information as possible about the wearer should be obtained with particular reference to size and to lifestyle. Wearers who consistently give results significantly different from the majority of wearers may be removed and replaced; however, it may be worth examining car

40、efully the reason for the nonconformity, as this may give insight into the reasons for garment failures. Figure 1 is an example of the type of data required.BS7754:1994 BSI 08-1999 3 Table 1 Example of typical trial plan for 20 wearers with 12 replications over fivevariationsof the test article Tabl

41、e 2 Example of typical trial plan for 15 wearers with 10 replications over threevariationsof the test article When wearers are selected or volunteer it should be ensured that they are suitable, and able to carry out any instructions or requests during the trial. Wearers who are reluctant to comply w

42、ith requests should be removed from the panel. Some organizations will have a “captive” reserve of people available for wearer trials, e.g.within hospitals, institutions, or the military establishment. Such populations are obviously ideal for trials relating to appropriate uniforms and items of inst

43、itutional clothing, but in any other trials they should be used with caution as part of a larger population. 5 Analysis 5.1 General On completion of a trial, all articles should be examined by experienced personnel and the findings of this examination compared with the replies from the trial questio

44、nnaire. If there is wide disagreement between the two, the trial coordinator or assistant coordinator should interview the wearer to establish a reason for the difference in opinion. Reasons for any inconsistency can be wide ranging, but some of the common reasons include different wearers having di

45、fferent expectations of an article, misuse, abuse and genuine accident. If a reason for the differing views cannot be found the results for this particular item should be ignored. During analysis, it is not uncommon for one or more results to differ considerably from the others. If this occurs durin

46、g normal laboratory testing the results should be examined for outliers which may be discarded if statistical tests so indicate. However, provided that specific reasons for the discrepancies can be found, the outlying results should be taken account of in the final report since they may provide usef

47、ul information on article misuse or adverse conditions of use. After the initial inspection the articles should be ranked in relative order of performance. It is normal practice within the textile industry to rank test results on a scale of 1 to 5, where 5 represents no change (the best performance

48、possible) and 1 represents the poorest performance. The advantage of using this method is that direct comparison can be made between the trial and the laboratory tests. Variations Wearers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 1 2 3 4 5 Variations Wearers 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

49、 15 1 2 3 Name: Sex: Age: Body measurements Details Height: Occupation: Weight: Chest/bust: Waist: Physique: Hips: Inside leg: large Arm length: normal Shoe size: small All information given will remain confidential. Figure 1 Example of a user detail chartBS7754:1994 4 BSI 08-1999 5.2 Analysis after a specified period of wear After a specified period of wear (decided before the trial