BS EN 15987-2015 Leather Terminology Key definitions for the leather trade《皮革 术语 皮革贸易的关键定义》.pdf

1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 15987:2015Leather Terminology Key definitions for the leathertradeBS EN 15987:2015 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 15987:2015. Itsupersedes BS EN 15987:2011 which is withdrawn.The UK participation in its preparation

2、 was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee TCI/69, Footwear, leather and coated fabrics.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its cor

3、rectapplication. The British Standards Institution 2015. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2015ISBN 978 0 580 83142 3ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.99Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy

4、and Strategy Committee on 30 April 2015.Amendments issued since publicationDate Text affectedBS EN 15987:2015EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 15987 April 2015 ICS 01.040.59; 59.140.99 Supersedes EN 15987:2011English Version Leather - Terminology - Key definitions for the leather

5、trade Cuir - Terminologie - Dfinitions pour le commerce du cuir Leder - Terminologie - Hauptdefinitionen fr den Lederhandel This European Standard was approved by CEN on 28 February 2015. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giv

6、ing this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three off

7、icial versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies o

8、f Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain,

9、 Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2015 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide f

10、or CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 15987:2015 EBS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Use of term leather 4 4 Terms and definitions .4 4.1 Key terms 4 4.2 Qualifying terms.6 4.2.1 Grain related .6 4.2.2 Tannage related .6 4.2.3 Finishing r

11、elated 7 4.3 Specific leather terms .7 4.4 Others .8 Annex A (normative) Exception .9 Bibliography . 10 Index 11 BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 15987:2015) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 289 “Leather”, the secretariat of which is held by UNI. This Eur

12、opean Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2015, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2015. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the el

13、ements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document supersedes EN 15987:2011. The main changes with respect to the previous edition are listed below: addition of the new Clause 3 “U

14、se of the term leather”; addition of a new Annex A (Normative) “Exception” in order to cover the German term “Kunstleder”; technical and editorial changes in order to better clarify the meaning of some terms (i.e. 4.3.3 “chamois”). According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national stan

15、dards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, L

16、uxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies the key terms and definitions used for the leather trade and provides guidance

17、 on the correct use of the term “leather”. Defined parameters in this standard need to be assessed using standard test methods specific for leather. NOTE See Bibliography for leather test method standards. 2 Normative references Not applicable. 3 Use of term leather The term leather, in any language

18、, and those derived from it or synonyms, is reserved exclusively for the product as defined under 4.1.1 and, as appropriate, for qualifying articles or manufactures made thereof. This applies also in cases where the term “leather” is used as an adjective, a noun, or inserted as a prefix or suffix in

19、 other words. The term “leather” cannot be used in the denomination of man-made materials except for those specified in this standard and in accordance with their specific rules (Annex A). The term leather can be qualified with words characterizing the material as specified under 4.1 and 4.2, or, mo

20、re generally, referring to the animal origin (e.g. calf leather), the country of origin (e.g. Italian leather), the market destination (e.g. footwear leather), the colour (e.g. black leather) or other similar valorising terms provided that they are corresponding to the truth and to the definition un

21、der 4.1.1. 4 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 4.1 Key terms 4.1.1 leather hide or skin with its original fibrous structure more or less intact, tanned to be imputrescible, where the hair or wool may or may not have been removed, whet

22、her or not the hide or skin has been split into layers or segmented either before or after tanning and where any surface coating or surface layer, however applied, is not thicker than 0,15 mm Note 1 to entry: If the tanned hide or skin is disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically into fibrous par

23、ticles, small pieces or powders and then, with or without the combination of a binding agent, is made into sheets or other forms, such sheets or forms are not leather. Note 2 to entry: If the grain layer has been completely removed, the term leather is not to be used without further qualification, e

24、.g. split leather, suede leather. BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 5 4.1.2 split leather layer from a hide or skin made from a flesh split or a middle split, without any grain structure, tanned to be imputrescible Note 1 to entry: A split is a layer of hide or skin obtained by dividing it horizonta

25、lly (splitting) to obtain at least two separate layers; the top layer is called grain split, and the bottom layer is called flesh split; for heavy hides also a middle split can be obtained. Note 2 to entry: If the name of the animal whence it originates, or the part of the animal whence it comes, is

26、 included in the description, the term “split leather” will be used as a noun, e.g. pig split leather. 4.1.3 crust leather which is tanned, fatliquored and dried, before finishing 4.1.3.1 dyed crust leather tanned, dyed, fatliquored and dried, before finishing 4.1.4 pelt hide or skin prepared for ta

27、nning by removal of the hair or the wool, epidermis and flesh Note 1 to entry: The term pelt can also be used for the skin of an animal with fur or hair still on it. 4.1.5 pickled pelt pelt treated with acid and brine, to be preserved or to be prepared for tanning Note 1 to entry: The term pelt can

28、also be used for the skin of an animal with fur or hair still on it. 4.1.6 wet-blue leather in a wet condition after chrome tanning Note 1 to entry: Wet -blue is an intermediate stage of manufacturing. 4.1.7 wet-white leather in a wet condition after tanning with substances e.g. zirconium salts, alu

29、minium salts, modified aldehydes, glutaraldehydes and syntans, that confer a whitish colour Note 1 to entry: Wet- white is an intermediate stage of manufacturing. BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 6 4.2 Qualifying terms 4.2.1 Grain related 4.2.1.1 grain outer side of leather once the hair or wool an

30、d epidermis has been removed, which is characterized by one of the following patterns, specific to each animal species: pores from hair and wool; feather follicles; scales 4.2.1.2 full grain leather having kept its entire grain, with none of the surface removed by any corrective mechanical treatment

31、 4.2.1.3 corrected grain grain which has been partially removed by buffing or any similar mechanical treatment, and enhanced by a finishing treatment Note 1 to entry: The original pattern is generally identifiable except for heavily corrected grains. 4.2.2 Tannage related 4.2.2.1 chrome-tanned leath

32、er hide or skin converted to leather either by treatment solely with chromium salts or with chromium salts together with a small amount of some other tanning agent, used merely to assist the chromium tanning process, and not in sufficient amount to alter the essential chromium tanned character of th

33、e leather 4.2.2.2 chrome-free leather hide or skin converted to leather by a tanning agent free of chromium salts, where the total content of chromium in the tanned leather is less than or equal to 0,1 % (mass of chromium/total dry weight of leather) 4.2.2.3 metal-free leather hide or skin converted

34、 to leather, where the total content of all tanning metals (Cr, Al, Ti, Zr, Fe) in the leather is less than or equal to 0,1 % (mass of all metals/total dry weight of leather) 4.2.2.4 organic-tanned leather hide or skin converted to leather by natural or synthetic organic tanning agents, where the to

35、tal content of tanning metals (Cr, Al, Ti, Zr, Fe) is less than or equal to 0,3 % (mass of all metals/total dry weight of leather) 4.2.2.5 vegetable-tanned leather hide or skin converted to leather by vegetable tanning agents, where the total content of tanning metals (Cr, Al, Ti, Zr, Fe) is less th

36、an or equal to 0,3 % (mass of all metals/total dry weight of leather) BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 7 4.2.3 Finishing related 4.2.3.1 aniline leather leather whose natural grain (4.2.1.1) is clearly and completely visible and where any surface coating with a non-pigmented finish is less than or

37、equal to 0,01 mm 4.2.3.2 semi-aniline leather leather that has been coated with a finish containing a small amount of pigment, so that the natural grain (4.2.1.1) is clearly visible 4.2.3.3 pigmented and pigmented split leather leather or split leather whose natural grain (4.2.1.1) or surface is com

38、pletely concealed with a finish containing pigments 4.2.3.4 coated and coated split leather leather or split leather where the surface coating, applied to the outer side, does not exceed one third of the total thickness of the product but is in excess of 0,15 mm 4.2.3.5 patent and patent split leath

39、er leather or split leather with generally a mirror-like effect, obtained by application of a layer of pigmented or non-pigmented varnishes, or synthetic resins, whose thickness does not exceed one third of the total thickness of the product 4.3 Specific leather terms 4.3.1 box calf full chrome tann

40、ed calf leather black or coloured, smooth or boarded, with a proteinic finish 4.3.2 cavallino specific Italian term for leather, usually derived from calf skins, with trimmed and short hair so that it looks as glossy and silky as the hair of the horse 4.3.3 chamois leather made from the flesh split

41、of sheepskin or lambskin or from sheepskin or lambskin from which the grain has been removed by frizing and tanned by processes involving the oxidation of marine oils in the skin, using solely such oils (full-oil chamois) or first an aldehyde and then such oils (combination chamois) Note 1 to entry:

42、 Also leather made from the skin of a mountain antelope or chamois, but such leather is rare. Note 2 to entry: In German language this term is also used to define chamois for clothing made out of deer skins. 4.3.4 double face wool-on sheepskin, finished by buffing on the reverse side 4.3.5 nappalan

43、wool-on sheepskin, finished by coating on the reverse side BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 8 4.3.6 nappa soft full grain leather, through dyed and lightly finished Note 1 to entry: Generally chrome tanned. 4.3.7 nubuck leather buffed on the grain side to produce a velvety effect, where the grain l

44、ayer is still visible 4.3.8 suede/velours leather or split leather whose wearing surface has been mechanically finished to produce a velvet-like nap 4.3.9 skiver tanned outer or grain split, typically of a sheepskin or lambskin, but sometimes applied to goatskin or calfskin 4.3.10 pull up leather th

45、at by design lightens in colour when stretched 4.4 Others 4.4.1 leather fibre board bonded leather fibre recycled leather fibre (and similar terms) material having a minimum amount of 50 % in weight of dry leather fibres, where tanned hides or skins are disintegrated mechanically and/or chemically i

46、nto fibrous particles, small pieces or powders and then, with or without the combination of chemical binding agent, are made into sheets Note 1 to entry: If there is any other component apart from leather fibre, binding material and leather auxiliaries, then this is declared as part of the descripti

47、on. Note 2 to entry: Where the material has been disintegrated and reformed in some way, the appropriate generic term is “.X leather fibre”- for example,“ bonded leather fibre,” or “recycled leather fibre.” On this basis, the terms “recycled leather” or “recycling leather” are used incorrectly. 4.4.

48、2 laminated and laminated split leather leather or split leather where a foil (polymeric film) layer, not exceeding one third of the total thickness, is applied by a transfer coating process BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 9 Annex A (normative) Exception Exceptionally, in the German language the t

49、erm “Kunstleder” is permitted because of its historical origin and because it is clearly understood by customers and consumers and its use does not lead to misunderstanding. The term “Kunstleder” shall not be translated in other languages. BS EN 15987:2015EN 15987:2015 (E) 10 Bibliography 1 EN ISO 5398-1, Leather Chemical determination of chromic oxide content Part 1: Quantification by titration (ISO 5398-1) 2 EN ISO 5398-2, Leather Chemical determination of chromic oxide content Part 2: Quantification by colorimetric determination (ISO 5398-2) 3