BS EN 16315-2014 Textiles Silk woven fabrics for womenswear silk squares scarves and ties Requirements and test methods《纺织品 女装 丝巾 围巾和领带用真丝机织物 要求和试验方法》.pdf

1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN 16315:2014Textiles Silk wovenfabrics for womenswear,silk squares, scarves and ties Requirements and testmethodsBS EN 16315:2014 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN 16315:2014. BSI, as a member of CEN, is obliged to publ

2、ish EN 16315:2014 as aBritish Standard. However, attention is drawn to the fact that during the development of this European Standard, the UK committee voted against its approval as a European Standard.The UK committee voted against this standard, as they are of the opinion that many parts of the st

3、andard are commercial con-siderations, these include the following clauses; 5.2.3.2, 5.2.3.3,5.2.4, 5.2.5, 5.3.4, 5.5, 6.1, 6.2.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to TechnicalCommittee TCI/66, Apparel and interior textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can

4、be obtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessary provisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correct application. The British Standards Institution 2014.Published by BSI Standards Limited 2014ISBN 978 0 580 75922 2ICS 59.060.10Complia

5、nce with a British Standard cannot confer immunity from legal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of the Standards Policy and Strategy Committee on 30 September 2014.Amendments/corrigenda issued since publicationDate T e x t a f f e c t e dBS EN 16315:2014EUROPEAN STA

6、NDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN 16315 March 2014 ICS 59.060.10 English Version Textiles - Silk woven fabrics for womenswear, silk squares, scarves and ties - Requirements and test methods Textiles - Tissus en soie destins aux vtements fminins, foulards, charpes et cravates - Exigences et mt

7、hodes dessai Textilien und textile Erzeugnisse - Gewebe aus Seide fr Damenbekleidung, Seidentcher, Schals und Krawatten - Anforderungen und Prfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 6 February 2014. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stip

8、ulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European

9、Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the

10、 national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania

11、, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2014 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by an

12、y means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 16315:2014 EBS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword 3 1 Scope 4 2 Normative references 4 3 Terms and definitions .5 4 Sampling .6 5 Requirements and test methods for silk fabrics 6 6 Specifications for made up articl

13、es: silk square, scarves and ties . 12 7 Information provided by the silk fabric producer 12 Annex A (informative) Denominations 13 Annex B (normative) Determination of dimensional change of textile fabrics due to relaxation when steamed on steam pressing machines 14 Bibliography . 18 BS EN 16315:20

14、14EN 16315:2014 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN 16315:2014) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products”, the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical te

15、xt or by endorsement, at the latest by September 2014 and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by September 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held resp

16、onsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finl

17、and, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E

18、) 4 1 Scope This European Standard specifies requirements for 100 % silk woven fabrics for womenswear, and for silk squares, scarves and ties for men and women, with the test methods for their evaluation. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced

19、 in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 1049-2, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 2: Dete

20、rmination of number of threads per unit length (ISO 7211-2:1984 modified) EN 1773, Textiles Fabrics Determination of width and length EN 12127, Textiles Fabrics Determination of mass per unit area using small samples EN ISO 105-B02, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part B02: Colour fastness to art

21、ificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (ISO 105-B02:2013) EN ISO 105-C06, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part C06: Colour fastness to domestic and commercial laundering (ISO 105-C06:2010) EN ISO 105-D01, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part D01: Colour fastness to dry cleaning using perchl

22、oroethylene solvent (ISO 105-D01:2010) EN ISO 105-E04, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part E04: Colour fastness to perspiration (ISO 105-E04:2013) EN ISO 105-J03, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part J03: Calculation of colour differences (ISO 105-J03:2009) EN ISO 105-X11, Textiles Tests for

23、colour fastness Part X11: Colour fastness to hot pressing (ISO 105-X11:1994) EN ISO 105-X12, Textiles Tests for colour fastness Part X12: Color fastness to rubbing (ISO 105-X12:2001) EN ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:2005) EN ISO 3175-1, Textiles Profess

24、ional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 1: Assessment of performance after cleaning and finishing (ISO 3175-1:2010) EN ISO 3175-2, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 2: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and

25、finishing using tetrachloroethene (ISO 3175-2:2010) EN ISO 3175-3, Textiles Professional care, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 3: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using hydrocarbon solvent (ISO 3175-3:2003) EN ISO 3175-4, Textiles Professional ca

26、re, drycleaning and wetcleaning of fabrics and garments Part 4: Procedure for testing performance when cleaning and finishing using simulated wetcleaning (ISO 3175-4:2003) EN ISO 3759, Textiles Preparation, marking and measuring of fabric specimens and garments in tests for determination of dimensio

27、nal change (ISO 3759:2011) BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 5 EN ISO 5077, Textiles Determination of dimensional change in washing and drying (ISO 5077:2007) EN ISO 6330, Textiles Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing (ISO 6330:2012) EN ISO 13015, Woven fabrics Distortion Deter

28、mination of skew and bow (ISO 13015:2013) EN ISO 13934-1, Textiles Tensile properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of maximum force and elongation at maximum force using the strip method (ISO 13934-1:2013) EN ISO 13936-1, Textiles Determination of the slippage resistance of yarns at a seam in wo

29、ven fabrics Part 1: Fixed seam opening method (ISO 13936-1:2004) EN ISO 13937-1, Textiles Tear properties of fabrics Part 1: Determination of tear force using ballistic pendulum method (Elmendorf) (ISO 13937-1:2000) ISO 1144, Textiles Universal system for designating linear density (Tex System) ISO

30、7211-1, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 1: Methods for the presentation of a weave diagram and plans for drafting, denting and lifting ISO 7211-4, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 4: Determination of twist in yarn removed from fabric ISO 7211-

31、5, Textiles Woven fabrics Construction Methods of analysis Part 5: Determination of linear density of yarn removed from fabric 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 silk square sewn square shaped article of silk fabric 3.2 scarf sew

32、n rectangular or triangular shaped article of silk fabric 3.3 tie sewn long narrow article of silk fabric 3.4 length of piece distance between piece-ends along the piece of fabric 3.5 total fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of a piece on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge,

33、measured perpendicular to the warp direction SOURCE: EN 1773 3.6 usable fabric width distance from the outermost yarn of the piece on one edge to the outermost yarn on the other edge excluding the selvedges BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 6 Note 1 to entry: Selvedges may be a woven selvadges, may

34、be made with gauze, may include marks left by any finishing apparatus e.g. stenter pin marks. 3.7 pattern size regularity evenness of the distances, in warp and weft directions, between repeated patterns 3.8 repeated pattern periodical design made by printing, dyeing or weaving, in warp and weft dir

35、ections 3.9 allover yarn dyed- or printed fabric with continuous pattern 3.10 diagonal yarn-dyed or printed fabric with 45 pattern 3.11 geometric pattern type of printing or weave pattern with geometric design 3.12 edging seaming the edges of silk squares and scarves 3.13 hand-sewn seam made by hand

36、 3.14 colour reference fabric fabric used as reference for colour reproducibility 4 Sampling From each commercial or production lot, take out laboratory samples of a size suitable for the tests to be done from three pieces of fabric or lots of made up articles in a random manner. If the lot consists

37、 of fewer than three pieces, samples will be taken from each piece of fabric. Samples shall not present any alterations or visible defects, such as holes, tears, stains, differences in colour. Moreover, samples shall be representative of all colours/patterns in case of colour fastness tests. 5 Requi

38、rements and test methods for silk fabrics 5.1 General The requirements specified in this European Standard concern properties that can be evaluated by laboratory tests or sensorial (visual) assessment of the fabric or are defined by tolerances allowed. The properties and relevant test methods consid

39、ered are as follows: structural characteristics (5.2); physico-mechanical characteristics (5.3); BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 7 colour fastness (5.4); colour conformity (5.5); 5.2 Structural characteristics 5.2.1 Fabric construction Fabric construction testing shall be carried out according to

40、ISO 7211-1. The fabric construction shall correspond to that specified in the contract. 5.2.2 Mass per unit area Mass per unit area shall be carried out according to EN 12127. In any case, the tolerance allowed on the declared value is 5 % The articles falling within the scope of this standard can b

41、e classified into following categories as given in Table 1: Table 1 Mass per unit area Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A mass 40 g/m2mass 40 g/m250 40 g/m2mass 100 g/m2C 80 160 g/m2- - NOTE Usual commercial denomination of each category is given in Table A.1. 5.2.3 Width and length

42、of piece 5.2.3.1 Length of piece The length of piece shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared length of each piece is 2 % 5.2.3.2 Fabric width and usable fabric width Fabric width shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerance allowed on the declared

43、 total or usable fabric width is -1 %; + 2 %. If the declared width corresponds to the minimum guaranteed width, no negative tolerance is allowed on the agreed value. 5.2.3.3 Pattern size regularity Pattern size regularity shall be carried out according to EN 1773. The tolerances allowed on the patt

44、ern dimensions, as declared, are as follows: a) Yarn-dyed fabrics BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 8 Allover 4 % Diagonal (45) and repeated patterns 2 % b) Printed fabrics Allover 3 % Diagonal (45) and repeated patterns 2 % 5.2.4 Threads per unit length Thread density shall be carried out according

45、 to EN 1049-2. The tolerance allowed on the declared value, expressed as threads/cm in warp and weft directions, is 2 % with a minimum of one thread/cm. 5.2.5 Linear density and twist of yarn removed from fabric Linear density and twist of yarn removed from the fabric shall be carried out according

46、to ISO 7211-4 and ISO 7211-5. The results of the measurement of linear density and twist shall be related to the corresponding values for the same fabric in the raw state. The tolerance allowed on the declared nominal yarn linear density (related to the raw fabric) on an average basis is 7 % for a y

47、arn linear density between 22,2 and 24,4 dtex (corresponding to 20-22 deniers as defined in ISO 1144). The tolerances allowed on declared nominal twist values are shown in Table 2: Table 2 Twist tolerances Twist range Tolerance allowed (*) Twist 150 10 turns/m or 15 % 150 700 50 turns/m or 5 % (*) T

48、he higher tolerance between absolute and relative values shall be applied. NOTE Usual commercial yarn denominations of each category are given in Table A.2. 5.3 Physical characteristics 5.3.1 Tensile properties maximum force (strip method) Tensile properties shall be carried out according to EN ISO

49、13934-1. Depending on the mass per unit area of the fabric, as given in Table 1, the minimum acceptable values are given in Table 3: BS EN 16315:2014EN 16315:2014 (E) 9 Table 3 Tensile properties Category Womenswear Silk square and scarves Ties A 150 N 100 N 250 N B 250 N 200 N 300 N C 300 N - - D 450 N - - 5.3.2 Tear properties for womenswear fabrics Tear force (ballistic pendulum method) Tear properties s