BS EN ISO 13015-2013 Woven fabrics Distortion Determination of skew and bow《机织物 变形 扭曲和弯曲测定》.pdf

1、BSI Standards PublicationBS EN ISO 13015:2013Woven fabrics Distortion Determination of skew andbow (ISO 13015:2013)BS EN ISO 13015:2013 BRITISH STANDARDNational forewordThis British Standard is the UK implementation of EN ISO13015:2013.The UK participation in its preparation was entrusted to Technic

2、alCommittee TCI/24, Physical testing of textiles.A list of organizations represented on this committee can beobtained on request to its secretary.This publication does not purport to include all the necessaryprovisions of a contract. Users are responsible for its correctapplication. The British Stan

3、dards Institution 2013. Published by BSI StandardsLimited 2013ISBN 978 0 580 69636 7ICS 59.080.30Compliance with a British Standard cannot confer immunity fromlegal obligations.This British Standard was published under the authority of theStandards Policy and Strategy Committee on 31 August 2013.Ame

4、ndments issued since publicationDate Text affectedEUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPENNE EUROPISCHE NORM EN ISO 13015 August 2013 ICS 59.080.30 English Version Woven fabrics - Distortion - Determination of skew and bow (ISO 13015:2013) toffes tisses - Dformation - Dtermination de lcart angulaire et du ci

5、ntrage (ISO 13015:2013) Gewebe - Verzerrung - Bestimmung des Schrg- und Bogenverzugs (ISO 13015:2013) This European Standard was approved by CEN on 19 July 2013. CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard

6、 the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member. This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, F

7、rench, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions. CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgar

8、ia, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turk

9、ey and United Kingdom. EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION COMIT EUROPEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPISCHES KOMITEE FR NORMUNG Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels 2013 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN I

10、SO 13015:2013: EBS EN ISO 13015:2013EN ISO 13015:2013 (E) 3 Foreword This document (EN ISO 13015:2013) has been prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38 “Textiles“ in collaboration with Technical Committee CEN/TC 248 “Textiles and textile products” the secretariat of which is held by BSI. This Euro

11、pean Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2014, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2014. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the e

12、lements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN and/or CENELEC shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this

13、 European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia

14、, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom. Endorsement notice The text of ISO 13015:2013 has been approved by CEN as EN ISO 13015:2013 without any modification. BS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E) ISO 2013 All rights reserved iiiContents PageForeword ivIntroduction v1 S

15、cope . 12 Normative references 13 Terms and definitions . 14 Principle 15 Apparatus . 16 Conditioning and testing atmosphere 27 Test specimens 28 Procedure. 28.1 General . 28.2 Preparation by marking 28.3 Preparation by fraying 28.4 Determination of the overall skew and local skew 29 Calculation and

16、 expression of the results 69.1 Calculation for the overall skew . 69.2 Calculation with two triangles for local skew 69.3 Calculation with three triangles for local skew 710 Test report . 7Annex A (normative) Weft bow and warp bow determination . 8Bibliography .10BS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(

17、E)ForewordISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a

18、technical committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matter

19、s of electrotechnical standardization.The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the different types of ISO documents should be noted. This docum

20、ent was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2. www.iso.org/directivesAttention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such pate

21、nt rights. Details of any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or on the ISO list of patent declarations received. www.iso.org/patentsAny trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not constit

22、ute an endorsement.The committee responsible for this document is ISO/TC 38, Textiles, Subcommittee SC 24, Conditioning atmospheres and physical tests for textile fabrics.iv ISO 2013 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E)IntroductionTextile and clothing manufacturers give a lot of

23、importance to knowledge of the widthway distortion. In the case of woven fabrics with patterns or in which the weft threads are rather visible, the appearance of a textile article could be compromised.With some rare exceptions, the two sets of threads in woven textile fabrics are intended to lie str

24、aight and at right angles. If a fabric does not meet either of these requirements, it is described as distorted. Difficulties in making up may then arise and the made-up article may fail to function properly. The distortion may also detract from the appearance of fabric with checked patterns or colo

25、ured weft effects such as plaids or stripes. It is therefore desirable to have a means of specifying and measuring the distortion in woven fabric in terms of bow and skew. ISO 2013 All rights reserved vBS EN ISO 13015:2013BS EN ISO 13015:2013Woven fabrics Distortion Determination of skew and bow1 Sc

26、opeThis International Standard specifies a method for the determination of the distortion of a woven fabric in which the weft yarns are, in principle, perpendicular to the warp yarns.2 Normative referencesThe following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and a

27、re indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.ISO 139, Textiles Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing3 Terms and definitionsFor the purpo

28、ses of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.3.1bowcurvature of the warp or weft of fabrics3.2skewfabric condition where the picks, although straight, are not at right angles to the ends4 PrincipleIn a piece of the woven fabric, laid on a flat surface and without tension, skew and

29、 bow are characterized as follows.Overall skew is based on the determination of the distance between one end of a weft yarn and the point on the same edge intersected by a normal perpendicular from the other end of the weft yarn to the fabric edge, in proportion to the distance between two points at

30、 which the normal perpendicular to the fabric edge intersects both edges (woven fabric width), expressed as a percentage ratio.Local skew is determined as the distance between one end of a weft yarn to its perpendiculars to the warp running at right angles to a portion of the fabric length.Weft bow

31、is determined (see Annex A) as the total perpendicular distance by which a weft yarn deviates from a straight line joining both ends of the weft yarn.Warp bow is determined (see Annex A) as the greatest perpendicular distance between the edge of the fabric and a straight line joining two selected po

32、ints on the edge.NOTE Any special treatment of the laboratory sample, i.e. washing or cleaning, could be as agreed upon between the interested parties and be described in the test report (see Bibliography for examples of standardized methods).5 Apparatus5.1 Set square, or similar device with at leas

33、t two sides at right angles, graduated in millimetres.INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 13015:2013(E) ISO 2013 All rights reserved 1BS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E)5.2 Metallic ruler, at least 100 cm long but not less than the overall width of the fabric under test, graduated in millimetres.5.3 Metall

34、ic ruler, 20 cm in length, graduated in millimetres.6 Conditioning and testing atmosphereThe conditioning and the testing shall be conducted in the standardized atmosphere according to ISO 139.The conditioning of the woven fabric shall be at least 16 h.7 Test specimens7.1 When test specimens are tak

35、en from a bulk sample, take care to ensure that they are removed with the minimum stress applied.7.2 Take full-width test specimens not less than 500 mm in length.7.3 Do not take test specimens from within 1 m of the ends of a piece.8 Procedure8.1 GeneralProceed with the measurement of the test spec

36、imen (excluding selvedges) and record the position of the selected weft yarn in relation to the nearest end of the test specimen.8.2 Preparation by markingSelect a weft yarn and trace its course by marking successive points along its length, across the width of the test specimen, with a thin marker.

37、If the yarn is not clearly visible, lighting of the face side of the test specimen can accentuate the relief and so facilitate the tracing of the yarns course.Alternately mark and measure on the reverse side of the test specimen.8.3 Preparation by frayingIf marking of the weft yarn is not possible,

38、cut the woven fabric and fray it down to expose a complete weft yarn across the width of the test specimen.8.4 Determination of the overall skew and local skew8.4.1 GeneralFrom the line representing the weft yarn evolution, the line is modelled on the application of one or more triangles.As each tri

39、angle is characterized by its height (identified as a) and its base (identified as b), the slope of each triangle can be calculated by the ratio of the height, a, and the base, b.Then, the skew is expressed as the percentage of the slope.When the line is modelled by several triangles, the highest sk

40、ew is kept to represent the final result.2 ISO 2013 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E)8.4.2 Measurement instructionsMeasure to the nearest millimetre with the metallic ruler (5.2) the distance b (base) in the perpendicular direction to the warp.Measure, with the set square and

41、the small ruler, the distance a (height) in the warp direction (see Figure 1).Note the values of the distance a (height) and the values of the distance b (base) of the related perpendicular for each slope that the line makes (see 8.4.3, 8.4.4, and 8.4.5, three examples of possible measurements in re

42、lation to the types of skew).Measure in three different places along the length of the woven fabric in order to collect results based on three weft yarns.Keya heightb baseFigure 1 Determination of the skew8.4.3 Overall skewFigure 2 represents the triangle model with one triangle to determine the ove

43、rall skew,where a is the maximal distance of the top of the line, measured between the top and the normal perpendicular from the beginning of the weft yarn on one fabric edge to the opposite fabric edge; b is the distance between the orthogonal projections of the beginning of the weft yarn on one fa

44、bric edge and the top of the line on the normal perpendicular to the warp (b represents the useful width of the woven fabric for which the selvedges are excluded). ISO 2013 All rights reserved 3BS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E)Keya heightb baseFigure 2 Principle of the measurement of the overall

45、 skew (one triangle model)Figure 3, Figure 4, Figure 5, and Figure 6 are four examples of different configurations related to the measurement of the overall skew.Figure 3 Example 1 of overall skew Figure 4 Example 2 of overall skewFigure 5 Example 3 of overall skew Figure 6 Example 4 of overall skew

46、8.4.4 Local skew with two trianglesFigure 7 represents the triangle model with two triangles to determine the local skew,where a1is the maximal distance (height) of the top of the line, measured between the top and the straight line going by the beginning of the weft yarn on left; b1is the distance

47、(base) between the orthogonal projections on the perpendicular to the warp of the beginning of the weft yarn on left and the top of the line; a2is the maximal distance (height) of the top of the line, measured between the top and the straight line going by the beginning of the weft yarn on right;4 I

48、SO 2013 All rights reservedBS EN ISO 13015:2013ISO 13015:2013(E) b2is the distance (base) between the orthogonal projections on the perpendicular to the warp of the beginning of the weft yarn on right and the top of the line.Keya1height 1a2height 2b1base 1b2base 2Figure 7 Local skew (model with two

49、triangles)8.4.5 Local skew with three trianglesFigure 8 represents the triangle model with three triangles to determine the local skew,where a1is the maximal distance (height) of the first top of the line, measured between the top and the perpendicular to the straight line going by the beginning of the weft yarn; b1is the distance (base) between the orthogonal projections on the perpendicular to the warp of the beginning of the weft yarn and the first top of the line; a2is the maximal distance (height) of the first top